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Impatiens walleriana

2021-03-28T12:50:19Z

Raffi:

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Balsaminaceae
|genus=Impatiens
|species=walleriana
|common_name=impatiens, busy Lizzie (British Isles), balsam
|habit=herbaceous
|Min ht box=15
|Min ht metric=cm
|Max ht box=60
|Max ht metric=cm
|lifespan=perennial, annual
|exposure=sun, part-sun, shade
|water=wet, moist, moderate
|features=flowers, houseplant
|flower_season=early spring, mid spring, late spring, early summer, mid summer, late summer, early fall, mid fall, late fall, early winter, mid winter, late winter
|flowers=red, orange, blue, purple, multicolored, pink, white, single, double, everblooming
|Temp Metric=°F
|min_zone=1
|max_zone=12
|image=Impatiens walleriana.JPG
|image_width=240
}}
Very popular garden plant. Perennial and everblooming in mild winter climates. Grown as an annual elsewhere, or dug up and brought indoors to overwinter. Seed pods snap open, shooting seeds around, which may germinate fairly easily.

{{Inc|
Impatiens sultani, Hook. f. From 12-24 in. high, with stout st. and branches, rather succulent and green, glabrous: lvs. elliptical or lanceolate and narrowed into a petiole about 1 in. long; lower lvs. alternate, upper ones almost whorled: peduncles axillary; fls. rich scarlet in the original form; petals flat; standard obovate- orbicular and retuse; lip less than half length of petals, suddenly narrowed into a slender upwardly curved long spur. Hybrids and sports have given shades from pink to almost purple, and a white variety also exists. Spur is very long and thin. Zanzibar.—Increased by seeds; also by cuttings, which root readily. A greenhouse plant; it also does well as a house plant, blooming almost continuously. var. episcopi, Hort. A perpetual flowering variety with purple-carmine fls. marked brilliant rose.—I. sultani was named by Hooker "in honor of that distinguished potentate, the Sultan of Zanzibar, to whose enlightened and philanthropic rule eastern Africa owes so much."
}}

==Cultivation==
Keep moist and out of strong winds. May get leggy, in which case trimming may strengthen the plants. Otherwise they usually require little intervention.

===Propagation===
Seed or cuttings. Volunteers are common where the conditions are appropriate.

===Pests and diseases===
Fairly pest free.

==Varieties==
In a rainbow of colors, more double flowered varieties have become more widely available, as have bicolored varieties.

==Gallery==

<gallery perrow=5>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
<references/>
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Impatiens walleriana

2021-03-28T12:45:28Z

Raffi:

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Balsaminaceae
|genus=Impatiens
|species=walleriana
|common_name=impatiens, busy Lizzie (British Isles), balsam
|habit=herbaceous
|lifespan=perennial, annual
|exposure=sun, part-sun, shade
|water=wet, moist, moderate
|features=flowers, houseplant
|flower_season=early spring, mid spring, late spring, early summer, mid summer, late summer, early fall, mid fall, late fall, early winter, mid winter, late winter
|flowers=red, orange, blue, purple, multicolored, pink, white, single, double, everblooming
|Temp Metric=°F
|min_zone=1
|max_zone=12
|image=Impatiens walleriana.JPG
|image_width=240
}}
Very popular garden plant. Perennial and everblooming in mild winter climates. Grown as an annual elsewhere, or dug up and brought indoors to overwinter. Seed pods snap open, shooting seeds around, which may germinate fairly easily.

{{Inc|
Impatiens sultani, Hook. f. From 12-24 in. high, with stout st. and branches, rather succulent and green, glabrous: lvs. elliptical or lanceolate and narrowed into a petiole about 1 in. long; lower lvs. alternate, upper ones almost whorled: peduncles axillary; fls. rich scarlet in the original form; petals flat; standard obovate- orbicular and retuse; lip less than half length of petals, suddenly narrowed into a slender upwardly curved long spur. Hybrids and sports have given shades from pink to almost purple, and a white variety also exists. Spur is very long and thin. Zanzibar.—Increased by seeds; also by cuttings, which root readily. A greenhouse plant; it also does well as a house plant, blooming almost continuously. var. episcopi, Hort. A perpetual flowering variety with purple-carmine fls. marked brilliant rose.—I. sultani was named by Hooker "in honor of that distinguished potentate, the Sultan of Zanzibar, to whose enlightened and philanthropic rule eastern Africa owes so much."
}}

==Cultivation==
Keep moist and out of strong winds. May get leggy, in which case trimming may strengthen the plants. Otherwise they usually require little intervention.

===Propagation===
Seed or cuttings. Volunteers are common where the conditions are appropriate.

===Pests and diseases===
Fairly pest free.

==Varieties==
In a rainbow of colors, more double flowered varieties have become more widely available, as have bicolored varieties.

==Gallery==

<gallery perrow=5>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
<references/>
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Impatiens walleriana

2021-03-28T12:45:00Z

Raffi:

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Balsaminaceae
|genus=Impatiens
|species=walleriana
|common_name=impatiens, busy Lizzie (British Isles), balsam
|habit=herbaceous
|lifespan=perennial, annual
|exposure=sun, part-sun, shade
|water=wet, moist, moderate
|features=flowers, houseplant
|flower_season=early spring, mid spring, late spring, early summer, mid summer, late summer, early fall, mid fall, late fall, early winter, mid winter, late winter
|flowers=red, orange, blue, purple, multicolored, pink, white, single, double, everblooming
|Temp Metric=°F
|min_zone=on
|max_zone=on
|image=Impatiens walleriana.JPG
|image_width=240
}}
Very popular garden plant. Perennial and everblooming in mild winter climates. Grown as an annual elsewhere, or dug up and brought indoors to overwinter. Seed pods snap open, shooting seeds around, which may germinate fairly easily.

{{Inc|
Impatiens sultani, Hook. f. From 12-24 in. high, with stout st. and branches, rather succulent and green, glabrous: lvs. elliptical or lanceolate and narrowed into a petiole about 1 in. long; lower lvs. alternate, upper ones almost whorled: peduncles axillary; fls. rich scarlet in the original form; petals flat; standard obovate- orbicular and retuse; lip less than half length of petals, suddenly narrowed into a slender upwardly curved long spur. Hybrids and sports have given shades from pink to almost purple, and a white variety also exists. Spur is very long and thin. Zanzibar.—Increased by seeds; also by cuttings, which root readily. A greenhouse plant; it also does well as a house plant, blooming almost continuously. var. episcopi, Hort. A perpetual flowering variety with purple-carmine fls. marked brilliant rose.—I. sultani was named by Hooker "in honor of that distinguished potentate, the Sultan of Zanzibar, to whose enlightened and philanthropic rule eastern Africa owes so much."
}}

==Cultivation==
Keep moist and out of strong winds. May get leggy, in which case trimming may strengthen the plants. Otherwise they usually require little intervention.

===Propagation===
Seed or cuttings. Volunteers are common where the conditions are appropriate.

===Pests and diseases===
Fairly pest free.

==Varieties==
In a rainbow of colors, more double flowered varieties have become more widely available, as have bicolored varieties.

==Gallery==

<gallery perrow=5>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
<references/>
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Hibiscus moscheutos

2021-03-28T12:31:27Z

Raffi:

{{SPlantbox
|genus=Hibiscus
|species=moscheutos
|Min ht metric=cm
|lifespan=perennial
|exposure=sun
|water=moist
|features=deciduous, flowers
|flower_season=mid summer, late summer
|flowers=red, pink, white, single
|Temp Metric=°F
|min_zone=5
|max_zone=11
|image=2016-09-14 15-33-51-BA-S.jpg
|image_width=180
}}
Popular, showy garden plant.

{{Inc|
Hibiscus moscheutos, Linn. (H. palustris, Linn.). Swamp Rose- Mallow. Strong-growing perennial 3-8
ft., the terete st. pubescent or tomentose: lvs. mostly ovate, entire in general outline or sometimes shallowly 3-lobed at the top, crenate-toothed, very soft-tomentose beneath but becoming nearly or quite glabrous above, the long petiole often joined to the peduncle: bracteoles linear, nearly or quite as long as the tomentose calyx: calyx- lobes triangular-ovate; fls. very large (4-7-8 in. broad), light rose-color: caps, globose-ovoid, glabrous. Marshes along the coast from Mass, to Fla. and west to Lake Michigan. B.M. 882. B.R. 1463; 33:7. Mn. 2:161. Gng. 2:227. F.S. 12:1233. R.H. 1907, p. 203 (as var. palustris). G.W. 6, p. 63. H. roseus, Thore, of Europe, is considered to be a naturalized form of this American species. R.H. 1879:10.—One of the best of the rose-mallows, thriving in any good garden soil. Of easiest cult, and perfectly hardy. Blooms in Aug. and Sept. The foliage is strong and effective. The most generally cult, of the hardy herbaceous kinds.
}}
==Cultivation==


===Propagation===
Seed, division, cuttings.

===Pests and diseases===


==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

File:2016-09-14 15-33-51-BA-S.jpg

2021-03-28T12:30:14Z

Raffi: Author Niepokój Zbigniew This file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:2016-09-14_15-33-51-BA-S.jpg

Author Niepokój Zbigniew

This file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:2016-09-14_15-33-51-BA-S.jpg

Diospyros lotus

2018-11-27T16:38:51Z

Raffi:

__NOTOC__{{Plantbox
| latin_name = ''Diospyros lotus''
| common_names = date-plum, Caucasian persimmon, or lilac persimmon
| growth_habit = tree
| high = 30m
| wide = 
| origin = ? 
| poisonous = 
| lifespan = perennial
| exposure = ? 
| water = ? 
| features = fruit
| hardiness = 
| bloom = 
| usda_zones = 6-10
| sunset_zones = 
| color = IndianRed
| image = Upload.png 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = 
| regnum = Plantae 
| divisio = 
| classis = 
| ordo = 
| familia = 
| genus = Diospyros
| species = lotus
| subspecies =
| cultivar =
}}
{{Inc|

Diospyros Lotus, Linn. Fig. 1272. Round-headed tree, to 40 ft. : lvs. elliptic or oblong, acuminate, pubescent, often glabrous above at length, 3-5 in. long: fls. reddish white, staminate in 3's, with 16 stamens, pistillate solitary: fr. yellow at first, black when fully ripe, globular, ½-¾ in. diam., edible. June. W. Asia to China. A.G. 12:460. Gn.32, p. 68. S.I.F. 1:79.
{{SCH}}
}}

==Cultivation==
{{edit-cult}}

===Propagation===
{{edit-prop}}

===Pests and diseases===
{{edit-pests}}

==Species==


==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
[[Category:Categorize]]

Ribes viburnifolium

2018-06-10T12:10:32Z

Raffi:

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Grossulariaceae – Currant family
|genus=Ribes L.
|species=Ribes viburnifolium A. Gray
|common_name=Evergreen Currant, Island Gooseberry, Catalina Currant
|habit=shrub
|Min ht box=2
|Min ht metric=ft
|Max ht box=3
|Max ht metric=ft
|Min wd box=6
|Min wd metric=ft
|Max wd box=8
|Max wd metric=ft
|exposure=shade
|water=dry
|features=drought tolerant, fire resistant
|Temp Metric=°F
|min_zone=6
|max_zone=10
|image=Ribesviburnifolium.jpg
|image_width=240
}}
Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==

===Propagation===

===Pests and diseases===

==Varieties==

==Gallery==
<gallery perrow=5>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
<references/>




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Vermiculite

2016-08-05T13:35:10Z

Raffi:

Vermiculite is a magnesium-aluminum-iron silicate with a high capacity for holding both water and nutrients. It's extremely light, and looks similar to mica, consisting of stacked layers.

It is often used in potting soil for plants that don't mind a fair amount of water because it can retain water and nutrients.

Vermiculite

2016-08-05T13:33:11Z

Raffi: Created page with "Vermiculite is a magnesium-aluminum-iron silicate with a high capacity for holding both water and nutrients. It's extremely light, and looks similar to mica, consisting of st..."

Vermiculite is a magnesium-aluminum-iron silicate with a high capacity for holding both water and nutrients. It's extremely light, and looks similar to mica, consisting of stacked layers.

Perlite

2016-08-05T13:01:16Z

Raffi: Created page with "Perlite is crushed volcanic rock, which has been heated until it explodes into small white pieces. It has a medium capacity to hold water, which still allows for very good dra..."

Perlite is crushed volcanic rock, which has been heated until it explodes into small white pieces. It has a medium capacity to hold water, which still allows for very good drainage, and is therefore used in soil mediums where very good drainage is necessary, such as for cactus soil or soil-less propagation mediums. Perlite also improves insulation of plant roots against extreme fluctuations of temperatures. Its does not do a good job of retaining nutrients.

Chilgoza Pine

2016-02-28T07:09:29Z

Raffi: Reverted edits by Arenaflowers (talk) to last revision by Raffi

{{Taxobox
| color = lightgreen
| name = Chilgoza Pine
| image = Pinus gerardiana Bra67.png
| image_width = 240px
| image_caption = ''Pinus gerardiana''
| status = LR/nt
| regnum = [[Plant]]ae
| divisio = [[Pinophyta]]
| classis = [[Pinophyta|Pinopsida]]
| ordo = [[Pinales]]
| familia = [[Pinaceae]]
| genus = ''[[Pine|Pinus]]''
| subgenus = ''[[Pinus classification|Ducampopinus]]''
| species = '''''P. gerardiana'''''
| binomial = ''Pinus gerardiana''
| binomial_authority = [[Nathaniel Wallich|Wall.]] ex [[D. Don]]
}}

The '''Chilgoza Pine''' ''Pinus gerardiana'', also known as 'noosa' and 'neoza', is a [[pine]] native to the northwestern [[Himalaya]] in eastern [[Afghanistan]], [[Pakistan]], [[Kashmir]] and northwest [[India]], growing at elevations between 1800-3350 m. It often occurs in association with [[Blue Pine]] (''Pinus wallichiana'') and [[Deodar Cedar]] (''Cedrus deodara'').

The [[tree]]s are 10-20 (-25) m tall with usually deep, wide and open [[Crown (botany)|crowns]] with long, erect branches. However, crowns are narrower and shallower in dense forests. The [[bark]] is very flaky, peeling to reveal light greyish-green patches, similar to the closely related [[Lacebark Pine]] (''Pinus bungeana''). The branchlets are smooth and olive-green. The [[leaf|leaves]] are needle-like, in fascicles of 3, 6-10 cm long, spreading stiffly, glossy green on the outer surface, with blue-green [[stomata]]l lines on the inner face; the sheaths falling in the first year. The [[conifer cone|cones]] are 10-18 cm long, 9-11 cm wide when open, with wrinkled, reflexed apophyses and an umbo curved inward at the base. The [[seed]]s ([[pine nut]]s) are 17-23 mm long and 5-7 mm broad, with a thin shell and a rudimentary wing.

===Uses===
Chilgoza Pine is well known for its edible seeds. The seeds are locally called and marketed as "Chilgoza", "Neje" or "Neja" and are rich in [[carbohydrate]]s and [[protein]]s. It is one of the most important cash crops of tribal people residing in the [[Kinnaur]] district of [[Himachal Pradesh]], [[India]].

===Other information===
This species is listed as lower risk, near threatened. Overcutting, and intensive grazing causing poor regeneration, may result in the extinction of this pine species. The Himachal Pradesh State Forest Department has tried [[plantation|artificial regeneration]] of Chilgoza Pine at many places. However, performance of seedlings was found to be very poor.

The scientific name commemorates Captain Gerard, a [[United Kingdom|British]] army officer in India. It was introduced to England in 1839, where it grows well in the warmer drier areas of the southeast, but is very rarely planted.

==References==
* {{IUCN2006|assessors=Conifer Specialist Group|year=1998|id=34189|title=Pinus gerardiana|downloaded=11 May 2006}}

==External links==
* [http://www.conifers.org/pi/pin/gerardiana.htm Gymnosperm Database: ''Pinus gerardiana'']
* [http://www.pinetum.org/cones/PNgerardiana.jpg Photo of Chilgoza Pine cone]
* [http://www.forestryimages.org/images/768x512/3943066.jpg Picture of chilgoza pine seed]

[[Category:Pinaceae|Pine, Chilgoza]]

Chrysanthemum

2016-02-28T07:09:26Z

Raffi: Reverted edits by Arenaflowers (talk) to last revision by Raffi

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Asteraceae
|genus=Chrysanthemum
|common_name=Chrysanthemum, mums
|habit=herbaceous
|Min ht box=50
|Min ht metric=cm
|Max ht box=100
|Max ht metric=cm
|lifespan=perennial
|exposure=sun
|water=moderate
|features=flowers
|flowers=red, orange, yellow, green, purple, brown, multicolored, pink, white, single, double
|Temp Metric=°F
|sunset_zones=see species
|jumpin=If this plant info box on watering; zones; height; etc. is mostly empty you can click on the edit tab and fill in the blanks!
|image=Maroon Mums.jpg
|image_width=240
|image_caption=Maroon Mum
}}
The Chrysanthemum genus is very broad with about 160 species. The more popular ones are of the species C. morifolium, better known as Florists' Chrysanthemum. These bloom in autumn, are the most useful, with a rainbow of colors and flower forms, as well as growth habits. The flowers are good cut flowers as well. The Shasta Daisy (C. maximum) is another popular species that is a heavy summer and fall bloom of white flowers with gold centers, with varying flower forms. The number of cultivars is probably countless, and growing quickly. Below is a general breakout of the many types of groupings, which will simplify how to care for them.

The species of ''Chrysanthemum'' are [[herbaceous]] [[perennial plant]]s, with deeply lobed leaves and large flowerheads, white, yellow or pink in the wild species.

{{Inc|
Chrysanthemum (Greek golden flower). Including Pyrethrum. Compositae. Plate XXX. A diverse group of herbaceous and sub-shrubby plants, mostly hardy, and typically with white or yellow single flowers, but the more important kinds greatly modified in form and color, grown in the open or flowered under glass in fall.

Annual or perennial herbs, sometimes partly woody, glabrous or loosely pubescent or rarely viscid, usually heavy-scented: lvs. alternate, various, from nearly or quite entire to much dissected: heads many-fld., terminating long peduncles or disposed in corymbose clusters, radiate (rays sometimes wanting); disk-fls. perfect and mostly fertile; ray-fls. pistillate, mostly fertile, the ray white, yellow, rose-colored, toothed or entire; receptacle naked, flat or convex; involucre-scales imbricated and appressed, mostly in several series, the margins usually scarious: achene of disk- and ray-fls. similar, striate or angled or terete or more or less ribbed, those of the ray-fls. often 3-angled; pappus 0, or a scale-like cup or raised border.—Probably nearly 150 recognizable species, in temperate and boreal regions in many parts of the globe, but mostly in the Old World.

The genus Chrysanthemum, as now accepted by botanists, includes many diverse species so far as general appearance is concerned, but nevertheless well agreeing within themselves in systematic marks and by these same marks being separated from related groups. The marks are in large part set forth in the preceding paragraph. Bentham and Hooker make twenty-two sub-groups (of which about six include the garden forms), based chiefly on the way in which the seeds are ribbed, cornered, or winged, and the form of the pappus. The garden pyrethrums cannot be kept distinct from chrysanthemums by garden characters The garden conception of Pyrethrum is a group of hardy herbaceous plants with mostly single flowers, as opposed to the florists' or autumn chrysanthemums, which reach perfection only under glass, and the familiar annual kinds which are commonly called summer chrysanthemums. When the gardener speaks of pyrethrums, he usually means P. roseum. Many of the species described below have been called pyrethrums at various times, but they all have the same specific name under the genus Chrysanthemum, except the most important of all garden pyrethrums, viz., P. roseum, which is C. coccineum. The feverfew and golden feather are still sold as pyrethrums, and there are other garden species of less importance. The botanical conception of Pyrethrum is variously defined; the presence of a rather marked pappus-border on the achene is one of the distinctions; the pyrethrums are mostly plants with large and broad heads either solitary or in loose corymbose clusters, the rays usually conspicuous and commonly not yellow, and the fruits five- to ten-ribbed. Hoffmann, in Engler & Prantl "Naturlichen Pflanzenfamilien," adopts eight sections, one of them being Tanacetum (tansy) which most botanists prefer to keep distinct.

Although the genus is large and widespread, the number of plants of interest to the cultivator is relatively few. Of course the common garden chrysanthemum, derived apparently from two species, is the most useful. The insect powder known as "pyrethrum," is produced from the dried flowers of C. cinerariaefolium and C. coccineum. The former species grows wild in Dalmatia, a long narrow mountainous tract of the Austrian empire. "Dalmatian insect powder" is one of the commonest insecticides, especially for household pests. C. cinerariaefolium is largely cultivated in France. C. coccineum is cultivated in California, and the product is known as buhach.

There are over one hundred books about the garden chrysanthemum, and its magazine literature is probably exceeded in bulk only by that of the rose. It is the flower of the East, as the rose is the flower of the West. Aside from oriental literature, there were eighty-three books mentioned by C. Harman Payne, in the Catalogue of the National Chrysanthemum Society for 1896. Most of these are cheap cultural guides, circulated by the dealers. The botany of the two common species has been monographed by W. B. Hemsley in the Gardeners' Chronicle, series III, vol. 6, pp. 521, 555, 585, 652, and in the Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society, vol. 12, part I. The great repositories of information regarding the history of the chrysanthemum, from the garden point of view, are the scattered writings of C. Harman Payne, his "Short History of the Chrysanthemum," London, 1885, and the older books of F. W. Burbidge and John Salter. For information about varieties, see the Catalogues of the National Chrysanthemum Society (England) and the Liste Descriptive, and supplements thereto, by O. Meulenaere, Ghent, Belgium. There are a number of rather expensive art works, among which one of the most delightful is the "Golden Flower: Chrysanthemum,'' edited by F. Schuyler Mathews, Prang, Boston, 1890. "Chrysanthemum Culture for America," by James Morton, Clarksville. Tenn., published in New York in 1891, was the first authentic American work. Within the past few years have appeared "The Chrysanthermum," by Arthur Herrington, "Smith’s Chrysanthemum Manual," by Elmer D. Smith, and recently "Chrysanthemums and How to Grow Them," by I. L. Powell.

Aside from the florist's chrysanthemum (C. hortorum), no particular skill is required in the growing of these plants, although great perfection is attained by some gardeners in the handling of individual plants of the marguerites (C. frutescens). The hardy border perennial chrysanthemums may be either small flowered rugged forms of C. hortorum, as the "hardy pompons" and also the "artemisias" of old gardens, or they may be other species. Some of these other species are the "pyrethrums" of gardens, and some (as the C. maximum and C. uliginosum class) are the "moon daisies" and "moonpenny daisies" of the hardy perennial plantation. Some of the very dwarf tufted kinds (as C. Tchihatchewii) make excellent edging plants. The moon daisies deserve to be better known for mass planting and bold lines when a great display of heavy white bloom is wanted. Most of them bloom the first season from early-sown seed. The Shasta daisy and its derivatives are of the moon daisy group. They all profit by a covering of coarse mulch in the fall. See Pyrethrum and Marguerite.

The annual chrysanthemums are easily grown flower-garden subjects, suitable for a bold late display in places where delicate and soft effects are not desired.

C. carinatum, C. coronarium and C. segetum are the common sources of these annuals. They are hardy and rugged; and they need much room.

'''Types of the common chrysanthemum.'''

The common chrysanthemums of the florists (C. hartorum) are often called "large-flowering," and "autumn chrysanthemums," to distinguish them from the hardy outdoor kinds, although neither of these popular names is entirely accurate or distinctive. They are the blended product of C. indicum and C. morifolium, two species of plants that grow wild in China and Japan. The outdoor or hardy chrysanthemums are derived from the same species, being less developed forms. The florist's chrysanthemum is not necessarily a glasshouse subject; but it is bloomed under glass for protection and to secure a longer season. Ten to fifteen dominant types of chrysanthemums have been recognized by the National Chrysanthemum Society of England. The words "types," "races," and "sections, have always been used by horticulturists to express much the same thing, but types can always be defined clearly, while sections cannot, and the word race should be restricted to cultivated varieties that reproduce their character by seed, which is not the case with the large - flowering chrysanthemums. The following explanation and scheme, it is hoped, will clearly set forth the main types, and explain some of the many terms that confuse the beginner. The horticultural sections are wholly arbitrary, being chiefly for the convenience of competitors at exhibitions, and therefore changing with the fashions. The present classification is based on the form of the flower, as each type can be had in any color found in the whole genus.

1. The Small Single Type.—Fig. 950. Fls. about 2 in. across, star-like, i. e., with the rays arranged in one series around the yellow disk. "Single," however, is a relative term, and in Fig. 950 there is more than one series of rays, but this does not destroy the "singleness" of effect. All fls. are either single, semi-double, or double, but all the intermediate forms between the two extremes of singleness and doubleness tend to disappear, as they are not desired.

2. The Large Single Type.—Like the preceding, but the fls. 4 in. or more across, and fewer. The large and small single types are practically never grown outdoors and are best suited for pot culture, each specimen bearing 20-80 fls. They are also grown by florists in consider able quantity for cutting.

3. The Small Anemone Type —Commonly called "Pompon Anemone." Fig. 938. Fls. 2-3 in. across, and usually more numerous than in the large anemone type. All the anemone forms are essentially single, but the raised disk, with its elongated tubular fls., usually yellow but often of other colors, gives them a distinct artistic effect, and they are, therefore, treated as intermediates in character between the single and double forms. Like the single forms, they are less popular than the double kinds, and the varieties are, therefore, less numerous and more subject to the caprices of fashion.

4. The Large Anemone Type.— Fls. 4 in or more across and fewer. Heads must have large size, high neatly formed centers, and regularly arranged florets, the disk being composed of long tubes or quills and the rays flat and horizontally arranged.

5. The Japanese Anemone Type.—Fig. 939. Fls. 4 in. or more across, and irregular in outline; fantastic and extreme anemone forms.

6. The Pompon Type.—Figs. 940, 949. Fls. 1-2 in. across. The outdoor kinds are likely to be small, flat and buttonlike, while those cult. indoors are usually larger and nearly globular. Fig. 940 shows the former condition. It is from one of the old hardy kinds long cult. in the gardens as "Chinese" or "small-flowered" chrysanthemums, and commonly supposed to be the product of C. indicum, as opposed to the "Japanese" or "large-flowered" kinds intro. in 1862, which marked a new era by being less formal and more fanciful than any of the preceding kinds. Pompons are little cult. under glass in Amer., being regarded mostly as outdoor subjects.

7. The Hairy Type. —Fig. 941. Also called "Ostrich Plume" and "Japanese Hairy." The famous prototype is the variety Mrs. Alpheus Hardy, pictured in Gn. 35, p. 307, which was sold for $1,500 in 1888, and started the American chrysanthemum craze. White fls. with long hairs are very delicate and pretty, but the hairs are often minute, and on many of the colored fls. they are considered more curious and interesting than beautiful. So far, nearly all hairy chrysanthemums are of the Japanese Incurved type. Since the hairs are on the backs of the florets, they show best in incurved types.

8. The Reflexed Type.— Also called "Recurved." Fig. 942. The reflexed forms can be easily broken up into 3 types, (a) the small and regular, (b) the large and regular, and (c) the large and irregular types. The latest standard requires that reflexed flowers have hemi- spheroidal heads, with no trace of thinness in the center, and broad overlapping florets.

9. The Incurved Type.— Fig. 943 shows the general idea, but such a fl. would hardly win a prize at an English show, where anything short of absolute regularity is relegated to the "Japanese Incurved" section (No. 10). This form is by far the most clear-cut ideal of any of these types, and for many years this ideal of the florists so completely dominated the English chrysanthemum shows that the incurved section came to be known there as the "exhibition" or "show type." In America the Japanese types, which are less formal and fanciful, early prevailed, but in England this has been the most important section of all.

10. The Japanese Incurved Type.—This section and the next have been the most important in America. There are many variations of this type. It often happens that the outer 4 or 5 series of rays gradually become reflexed, but if most of the rays are incurved, the variety may be exhibited in this section. Fig. 943.

11. The Japanese Types.—The word "Japanese" was originally used to designate the large-fld. fantastic kinds, intro. by Robert Fortune from Japan in 1862. It has never been restricted to varieties imported directly from Japan, but has always included seedlings raised in the western world. Before 1862, all florists' fls. in England were relatively formal and small. The informal, loose, grotesque, Japanese chrysanthemums, intro. by Fortune broke up the conventional era, and the demand for large specimen blooms that resulted in fl.-shows all over the world reached Amer. in 1889. The "Japanese section" now means little more than "Miscellaneous." The 10 types previously mentioned can be rather accurately defined, but the Japanese section is purposely left undefined to include everything else. All the tubular and quilled sorts are now included in it, although formerly kept distinct.

''Relative importance and uses of the foregoing types.—''

In general, the large-flowered forms are more popular than the small-flowered forms, especially at exhibitions, where great size is often the greatest factor in prize- winning. Types 9, 10 and 11 are the most important in America, especially the Japanese section. The flowers of types 9 and 10 are likely to be more compact and globular, and hence better for long shipments than the looser and more fanciful types. Types 9, 10 and 11 are those to which most care is given, especially in disbudding and training. They are the ones most commonly grown by the florists for cut-flowers, and whenever one large flower on a long stem is desired. The anemone-flowered forms are all usually considered as curiosities, especially the Japanese anemones, which are often exhibited as freaks and oddities. The single and anemone-flowered forms are used chiefly for specimens in pots with many small flowers, but all the other types are used for the same purpose. For outdoor culture, the hardy pompons, with their numerous small flowers, are usually better than the large-flowering or Japanese kinds.

As an indication of the constant change in standards of appreciation, may be cited the present popularity of short-stemmed chrysanthemums (Fig. 944) as distinguished from the greatly elongated stem that was exclusively desired some years ago; and also the demand for bushy many-flowered plants, producing small bloom as compared with the former excessively large detached flowers.

''The current English classification.''

The Floral Committee of the National Chrysanthemum Society (of England) in 1912 published the following "new classification of Chrysanthemums" (published also in American Florist, Sept. 21, 1912, by Elmer D. Smith):

'''Section I. Incurved.'''

The distinguishing characteristics of this section are the globular form and regular outline of the blooms. The flower should be as nearly a globe as possible, as depth is an important point in estimating its value. The florets ought to be smooth, rounded, or somewhat pointed at the tip, of sufficient length to form a graceful curve, and be regularly arranged. A hollow center or prominent eye are serious defects, as also are a roughness in the blooms, unevenness of outline and a want of freshness in the outer florets.

The section is now subdivided into: 
Sub-section (a).—Large-flowered varieties. 
Sub-tection (b).—Medium- and small-flowered varieties.

'''Section II. Japanese.'''

Japanese varieties include a wide range of form, size and color. Their florets may be either flat, fluted, quilled or tubulated, of varying length, from short, straight, spreading florets, to long, drooping, twisted or irregularly incurved. In breadth the florets may vary greatly, ranging from those an inch in width to others scarcely broader than a stout thread. Some also either have the tips of the florets cupped, hollowed, curved or reflexed.

''Sub-section I.'' Japanese, 
(a) Large-flowered varieties. 
(b) Medium-flowered varieties. 
(c) Small-flowered varieties. 
''Sub - section II.'' Incurved Japanese. 
(a) Large-flowered varieties. 
(b) Medium- and small flowered. 
Sub-section III. Hairy Japanese.

Reflexed section to be deleted as these varieties are now referred to other sections.

'''Section III. Anemones.'''

The distinctive characteristics of anemone varieties are their high, neatly formed centers and regularly arranged ray-florets. There are two distinct seta of florets, one quilled and forming the center or disk, and the other flat and more or less horizontally arranged, forming the border or ray. The flowers may have the ray or guard florets broad or twisted, or narrow, and forming a fringe, but should be so regularly arranged as to form a circle round the center, the latter should be a hemispheroidal disk, with no trace of hollowness and every floret in its place.

(a) Large-flowered, i. e., with a diameter of 3 inches and upwards. 
(b) Small-flowered, i. e., with a diameter of less than 3 inches.

'''Section IV. Pompons.'''

Pompon varieties have blooms that may be somewhat flat or nearly globular, very neat and compact, formed of short, flat, fluted or quilled florets, regularly spreading or erect, the florets of each bloom being of one character.

(a) Large-flowered, i. e., with a diameter of 2 inches and upwards. 
(b) Small-flowered, i. e., with a diameter of less than 2 inches.

'''Section V. Singles.'''

Single varieties may be of any size and form; but the florets, whether short and rigid or long and drooping, should be arranged sufficiently close together to form a regular fringe.

''Sub-section I''. Varieties with one or two rows of ray florets. 
(a) Laree-flowered, i. e., with a diameter of 3 inches and upwards. 
(b) Medium and small-flowered, i. e., with a diameter of less than 3 inches. 
''Sub-section II''. Varieties with three to five rows of ray florets. 
(a) Large-flowered, i. e., with a diameter of 3 inches and upwards. 
(b) Medium and small-flowered i. e., with a diameter of less than 3 inches. 
''Sub-section III'', Anemone-centered varieties.

'''Section VI. Spidery, Plumed And Feathery.'''

Varieties in this section have small or medium-sized flowers of eccentric shape, but most frequently of a light and graceful character; some have threadlike florets, and some have broader florets, but they may be either erect, horizontal or drooping and of various shapes and colors.

Market, Decorative and Early-flowering varieties will be deleted as such, but lists will be drawn up under each heading for general guidance.

'''Culture of the florist's chrysanthemum (C. hortorum)'''

The first step towards success in chrysanthemum-culture is good healthy cuttings, and as they become established plants they should receive generous culture throughout their entire growing season. This requires close attention to watering, airing, repotting, and a liberal supply of nutriment.

Chrysanthemums are propagated in four ways,—by cuttings, division, seeds, and grafting. By far the most important is the first, because it is the most rapid. It is the method of the florists. In localities in which the plants can remain outdoors over winter without injury, they may be increased by division. This system is practised more by amateurs than florists, being the easiest method for the home garden but not rapid enough for the florist. Propagation by seeds is employed only to produce new varieties, and is discussed at length elsewhere (page 764). Grafting is seldom practised. Skilful gardeners sometimes graft a dozen or more varieties on a large plant, and the sight of many different colored fls. on the same plant is always interesting at exhibitions.

''Section I.—Culture of chrysanthemums for cut-flowers.''

This account is intended to describe the method chiefly employed by florists, the plants being grown in benches under glass.

1. ''Propagation by cuttings''.—Plants of the preceding year afford stock from which to propagate the following season. They produce quantities of stools or suckers, which form excellent material for the cuttings. These are usually taken from 1½ to 3 inches in length, the lower leaves removed, also the tips of the broad leaves, then placed in propagating-beds close together, where they are kept continually wet until rooted. To insure a large percentage, the condition of the cuttings should be moderately soft. If the stock plants are allowed to become excessively dry, the cuttings are likely to harden, and thus be very slow in producing roots. Single- eye cuttings may be used of new and scarce varieties when necessary. These are fastened to a tooth-pick with fine stemming wire, allowing half of the tooth-pick to extend below the end of the cutting, and when inserted in the cutting-bed the end of the cutting should rest upon the sand. It requires more time to produce good plants by this system than when fair-sized cuttings can be taken, but it is often of service when stock is limited. The propagating- house should be well aired, and it is advisable to change the sand after the second or third batch of cuttings has been removed, to avoid what is termed cutting- bench fungus. The cuttings should never be allowed to wilt, and this is avoided by giving abundance of air, and when the temperature reaches over 70° from sun heat, by shading with some material, either cloth or paper. Fig. 951 shows a good form of chrysanthemum cutting.

2. ''Planting''.—Cuttings should not be allowed to remain in the cutting-bench after the roots are ½ inch in length, or they will become hardened, which will check the growth. As soon as rooted, they should be potted into 2- or 2½ inch pots, using good mellow soil, with a slight admixture of decomposed manure. Most of the large flowers are produced under glass, and the bench system is generally employed, which consists of 4 or 5 inches of soil placed upon benches. In these benches the small plants are planted 8 to 12 inches apart each way, from the latter part of May to the middle of July. Those planted at the first date usually give the best results. The soil should be pounded rather firm either before planting or after the plants have become established.

3. ''Soil''.—There are many ideas as to what soil is best suited for the chrysanthemum, but good blooms may be grown on clay or light sandy loam, provided the cultivator is a close observer and considers the condition of the soil in which they are growing. Clay soil, being more retentive of moisture, will require less water and feeding than soil of a more porous nature. The chrysanthemum is a gross feeder, and, therefore, the fertility of the soil is very important in the production of fine blooms. Each expert has a way of his own in preparing the soil, but as equally good results have been secured under varied conditions, it is safe to conclude that the method of preparing the soil has little to do with the results, provided there is sufficient food within their reach. All concede that fresh-cut sod, piled late the preceding fall or in early spring, with one-fourth to one-fifth its bulk of half-decomposed manure, forms an excellent compost. Many use 1 or 2 inches of manure as a mulch after the plants have become established. Others place an inch of half- decomposed manure in the bottom of the bench. This the roots find as soon as they require it. Good blooms have been grown by planting on decomposed sod and relying on liquid applications of chemicals.

4. ''Feeding''.—No definite rule can be given for this work, as so much depends on the amount of food incorporated in the soil. If the soil be very rich, the liquid applications should be only occasional and very dilute. There is more danger of overfeeding by the use of liquids than by using excessively rich soil. Each grower must depend on his own judgment as to the requirements, being guided by the appearance of the plants. When the leaves become dark-colored and very brittle, it is safe to consider that the limit in feeding has been reached. Some varieties refuse to bud when overfed, making a mass of leaves instead. Others show very contorted petals, giving a rough unfinished bloom. Still others, particularly the red varieties, are likely to be ruined by decomposition of the petals, called "burning," especially if the atmosphere is allowed to become hot and stuffy. The same result will follow in dark weather, or when the nights become cool, if the moisture of the house is allowed to fall upon the blooms. Under such conditions, the ventilation should remain on during the night, or heat be turned in according to the outside temperature.

5. ''Watering and shading''.— Let the foliage be the index to watering. If it appears yellow and sickly, use less water, and see that the drainage is perfect. There is little danger of over-watering as long as the foliage is bright green. A little shading at planting time is not objectionable, out it should be removed as soon as the plants are established. It is often necessary to shade the pink and red flowers, if the weather continues bright for some time, to prevent their fading.

6. ''Training''.—When the plants are 8 inches high, they should be tied either to stakes or to jute twine. In the former system, use one horizontal wire over each row, tying the stake to this after the bottom has been inserted into the ground. Two wires will be necessary when twine is used, one above the plants and the other a few inches above the soil to which the twine is fastened. From the first of August until the flowers are in color, all lateral growths should be removed as soon as they appear, allowing only the shoots intended for flowers to remain. The above remarks refer to the training of benched chrysanthemums as grown by florists for cut-flowers. Other kinds of training are described under Section II, pages 763-4.

7. ''Disbudding''.—No special date can be given for this work, as much depends on the season and the earliness or lateness of the variety to be treated. Buds usually begin to form on the early sorts about August 15, or soon after, and some of the late varieties are not in condition before October 10. Golden Glow and Smith Advance among the large- flowering, and several of the early- flowering of the hardy varieties, are exceptions to the foregoing, as they will set buds in June and July that will develop very good blooms during the month of August and later. The advent of these kinds has advanced the flowering season four to six weeks. The object of removing the weak and small buds and retaining the best is to concentrate the whole energy of the plant and thereby increase the size of the flower.

There are two forms of buds, crowns and terminals. A crown bud (Fig. 952) is formed first, never coming with other flower-buds, and is provided with lateral growths which, if allowed to remain, will continue their growth and produce terminal buds later. Terminal buds come later, always in clusters, are never associated with lateral growths, and terminate the plant's growth for that season. If the crown bud is to be saved, remove the lateral growths as shown by Figs. 952, 953, and the operation is complete. If the terminal bud is desired, remove the crown and allow one, two or three (according to the vigor of the plant) of the growths to remain. In a few weeks these will show a cluster of buds, and, when well advanced, it will be noticed that the largest is at the apex of the growth (the one saved, if perfect, as it usually is), and one at each of the leaf axils (see Fig. 955). The rejected buds are easiest and safest removed with the thumb and forefinger. Fig. 956. Should the bud appear to be one-sided or otherwise imperfect, remove it and retain the next best. In removing the buds, begin at the top and work down. By so doing there are buds in reserve, in case the best one should accidentally be broken, while if the reverse course were taken, and the best bud broken at the completion of the work, all the labor would be lost. A few hours' disbudding will teach the operator how far the buds should be advanced to disbud easily. Early and late in the day, when the growths are brittle, are the best times for the work. Some growers speak of first, second and third buds. The first is a crown, and usually appears on early- propagated plants from July 15 to August 15. If removed, the lateral growths push forward, forming another bud. In many cases in which the crowns are removed early, the next bud is not a terminal, but a second crown, which is termed the second bud. Remove this, and the third bud will be the terminal. Plants propagated in May and June usually give the second and third bud, not forming the typical crown. Those struck in July and planted late give the terminal only. Most of the best blooms are from second crown and terminal. Pink, bronze and red flowers from first crowns are much lighter in color than those from later buds. They are large, but very often abnormal to such an extent as to be decidedly inferior. This is doubtless due to the large amount of food utilized in their construction, owing to the long time consumed in development. The hot weather of September and October must have a detrimental effect upon the color.

''Enemies''.—Green aphis (Aphis rufomaculata) and the black aphis (Macrosiphum sanboni) are sometimes very troublesome. They may be controlled by spraying with "Black Leaf 40" tobacco extract, one part to 800 parts water with soap added. Fumigation with hydrocyanic acid gas is also widely practised by commercial growers. In moderately tight greenhouses, use one ounce potassium cyanide for each 3,500 cubic feet of space for all-night fumigation. For details, sec Fumigation. Red Spider (Tetranychus bimaculatus) becomes injurious if neglected. It may be easily controlled by spraying with water, using much force and little water to avoid drenching the beds. The use of sulfur has also a beneficial effect.

Thrips. (See Carnation).

Leaf-tyer (Phlyctaenia ferrugalis) is frequently very abundant in some parts of the country. It is essentially a greenhouse pest although it can live out-of-doors. The greenish whitish striped caterpillars, ¾inch in length when full grown, feed on the under- side of the leaves which they roll or tie together. The moth is pale brownish with an expanse of about ¾ inch. The leaf-tyer is most destructive during the summer months when the temperature is highest. It can be controlled by spraying with arsenate of lead. It is advisable to begin the work early in the season when the insects are less numerous and the plants are small. Care should be taken to hit the under surface of the leaves.

The tarnished plant-bug (Lygus pratensis) often injures the blossom buds by its feeding punctures. This causes wilting and blind growths. The bugs may be excluded from greenhouses with screens. Out-of-doors no satisfactory means of control has been devised. But it has been noticed that plants growing in partial shade are less subject to injury.

Grasshoppers are sometimes injurious. They may be controlled by the use of arsenate of lead or by hand-picking.

''Diseases''. — Damping-off in the cutting-benches is not uncommon. See Damping-off,page 961. Rust (Puccinia chrysanthemi) is the only serious fungous disease of the chrysanthemum. It is characterized by the reddish brown pulverulent masses on the foliage consisting of the spores of the fungus. The disease is usually not destructive but may make the foliage unsightly. Any leaves appearing diseased should be removed promptly. In watering care should be taken not to wet the foliage, as moisture on the leaves allows new infections. Leaf-blight (Cylindrosporium) and leaf-spot (Septoria) occur on mature or languishing foliage and usually do little damage.

''Section II.—Culture of chrysanthemums in pots.''

The same principles are employed in pot culture as when planted upon the bench, with the exception that the plants are generally allowed to produce more blooms. The most popular type of pot-plant for home growing, or for sale by florists and intended for home use, is a compact, bushy plant,1½ to 2 feet high, branched at the base, and bearing four to twenty flowers averaging 3 to 4 inches across. They are here called "market plants." "Single-stem plants" are also popular. Great quantities of large flowers (say twenty to one hundred) are rarely grown on a potted plant, except for exhibitions. Such plants are commonly called "specimens, and the three leading forms are the bush, the standard and the pyramid, the first mentioned being the most popular.

1. ''Market plants''.—Dwarf plants of symmetrical form, with foliage down to the pots, are the most salable, and when thus grown require constant attention as to watering and stopping, allowing each plant plenty of room to keep the lower leaves in a healthy condition. Cuttings taken June 1 and grown in pots, or planted on old carnation benches or in spent hotbeds (light soil preferable), and lifted by August 15, will make very good plants 1 to 1 ½ feet high. The reason for lifting early is to have them well established in their flowering pots before the buds are formed.

2. ''Single-stem plants''.— Same culture as market plants, except that they are restricted to one stem and flower. Those from 1 to 2 feet in height are more effective and useful than tall ones. For this reason, many prefer plunging the pots out-of-doors where they have the full benefit of the sun and air, making them more dwarf than when grown under glass.

3. ''Pot-plants for cut-flowers''. —Culture same as for specimen plants, except that the nipping should be discontinued July 1 to give sufficient length to the stems. If large flowers are desired, restrict the plants to eight or ten growths. Such plants can be accommodated in less space than specimens, when the chief object is symmetry.

4. ''Bush plants''.—For large bush plants, the cuttings should be struck early in February, and grown along in a cool airy house, giving attention to repotting as often as necessary. The final potting into 10- or 12- inch pots generally takes place in June. They are potted moderately firm, and watered sparingly until well rooted. As soon as the plants are 5 or 6 inches high the tips should be pinched out, to induce several growths to start. As the season advances and the plants make rapid growth, pinching must be attended to every day up to the latter part of July, to give as many breaks as possible and keep them in symmetrical form. By the middle of August (if not previously attended to), staking and getting the plants in shape will be a very important detail. If stakes are used, they must be continually tied-out, as the stems soon begin to harden, and this work can be best accomplished by looking them over daily. Light stakes of any material may be used. Many other methods are in use, such as wire hoops and wire framework, to which the growths are securely tied.

5. ''Standards'' differ from bush plants in having one stout self-supporting stem, instead of many stems. They require the same culture as bush plants, with the exception that they are not stopped, but allowed to make one continuous growth until 3, 4 or 5 feet high, and are then treated the same as bush plants. They require the same attention as to stopping and tying to secure symmetrical heads.

6. ''Pyramids'' are only another form of bush plants, and it is optional with the grower which form he prefers.

''Section III.— Culture of chrysanthemums for the production of new varieties.''

The object of seed-saving is the improvement of existing varieties. It is not conclusive, however, that all seedlings will be improvements; in fact, it is far from this, as the greater proportion are inferior to their antecedents. Only those who give the most careful consideration to cross-fertilization are certain of marked success. Hand-hybridized seeds possess value over those haphazardly pollinated by wind and insects only according to the degree of intelligence employed in the selection of parents. What the result will be when a white flower is fertilized with a yellow one, the operator cannot determine at the outset. It may be either white, yellow, intermediate, or partake of some Antecedent, and thus be distinct from either. Improvements in color can be secured only by the union of colors, bearing in mind the laws of nature in uniting two to make the third. Red upon yellow, or vice-versa, may intensify the red or yellow—give orange or bronze, as nature may see fit. The operator is more certain of improving along other lines, such as sturdiness or dwarfness of growth, earliness or lateness of bloom, or doubleness of flowers. The selection of those most perfect in these particulars is very sure to give similar or improved results. Always keep a record of this work showing the parents of a seedling. The satisfaction of knowing how a meritorious variety was produced more than pays for the trouble, and may lead to further improvements along certain lines.—The operation begins when the flower is half open, cutting the petals off close to their base with a pair of scissors, until the style is exposed. Should the flower show signs of having disk or staminate florets, remove these with the points of the scissors and thus avoid self-fertilization. When the styles are fully grown and developed, the upper surface or stigma is in condition to receive the pollen. By pushing aside (with the thumb) the ray-florets of the flower desired for pollen, the disk-florets which produce the pollen will become visible. The pollen may be collected on a camel's-hair pencil or toothpick and applied to the stigma of the flower previously prepared. If a toothpick be used, never use it for more than one kind of pollen. By allowing the camel's-hair pencil to stand in an open-mouthed vial of alcohol a few moments after using, it may be again used, when dry, upon another variety without fear of the pollen of the former operation affecting the present.—Cuttings struck in June and July and grown to single bloom in 4-inch pots are the most convenient for seeding. Such flowers, if not given too much food are more natural and furnish an abundance of pollen, as well as being easier to trim than the massive blooms produced for the exhibition- table. The pollinating should be done on bright, sunny days, and as early in the day as possible. As soon as the seed plants are trimmed, they should be placed by themselves to avoid fertilization by insects, and should there remain until the seeds are ripe. Keep the plants rather on the dry side, and give abundance of air. Seeds, which ripen in five to six weeks, should be saved without delay, and carefully labelled. In sowing seeds, they should be covered very lightly and kept in a temperature of 60°. When the seedlings are large enough to handle easily, remove to small pots, or transplant farther apart in shallow boxes. Chrysanthemums flower the first season from seed.

''Section IV.—Varieties.''

Of the long list of new varieties sent out each year, but few are retained after the second year's trial. This is probably due to the fact that most American growers are more interested in the commercial value of the flower than the curious forms or striking colors they present. Exhibitions have not reached the people here as in England and France. There are a few varieties that have stood the test for several years: such as Ivory, 1889; Geo. W. Childs, 1892; Golden Wedding, 1893; Major Bonnaffon, 1894; Yanoma. 1896; W. H. Chadwick, 1898; John K. Shaw and Nagoya, 1899; Monrovia, Col. D. Appleton and White Bonnaffon, 1900. There are many other varieties that have stood the test for four or five years.

It is not the purpose of this article to recommend varieties of chrysanthemums, but the following list includes the best varieties known in North America at the present time. The list will be valuable as showing a serviceable classification, and also for reference when other varieties have come into existence:

''Selection of varieties based on main types.''—(1) Incurved: Aesthetic, Emberta, Major Bonnaffon, Pink Gem, Mary Donellan, Naomah, Smith's Sensation, William Turner. (2) Japanese: Pacific Supreme, Crocus, Ramapo, December Gem, F. S. Vallis, Glen Cove, Golden Robin, Reginald Vallis. (3) Japanese Incurved: Chrysolora, Col. D. Appleton, W. H. Chadwick, Mlle. Jeanne Nonin, Artistic Queen, Christy Mathewson, Elberon, Nakota. (4) Hairy: Arvede Barine, Beauty of Truro, Frison d'Or, Leocadie Gentils, Louis Boehmer, L'Enfant des Deux Mondes, R. M. Grey, White Swan. (5) Reflexed: Smith's Advance, Dick Witterstaetter, Harvard, Yanoma, Mrs. J. Wells, Rose Pockett, Thanksgiving Queen, Madison. (6) Large Anemone: Satisfaction, Surprise, Ernest Cooper, Geo. Hawkins, Gladys Spaulding, John Bunyan. (7) Japanese Anemone: Eleanor, Mrs. F. Gordon Dexter, Zoraida. (8) Pompons: Alma, Baby, Clorinda, Fairy Queen, Helen New-berry, Minta, Julie Lagravere, Quinola. (9) Pompon Anemone: Diantha, Ada Sweet, Gertrude Wilson, Lida Thomas, Vayenne, Bessie Flight. (10) Large-flowering Singles: Arlee, Catherine Livingstone, Felicity, Itaska, Lady Lu, Red Light. (11) Small flowering Singles: Ladysmith, Anna, Blazing Star, Little Barbee.

''Selection of varieties based on color.''—White: Smith's Advance, Chadwick Improved, Christy Mathewson, Mrs. Gilbert Drabble, Naomah, William Turner. Yellow: Chrysolora, Comoleta, Golden Glow, Golden Eagle, Ramapo, Lenox. Pink: Pacific Supreme, Unaka, Patty, Glen Cove, Morristown, Smith's Sensation. Crimson: Dick Witteretaetter, Harvard, Intensity, J. W. Molyneux, Pockett's Crimson, Mrs. Harry Turner. Bronze and buff: Glenview. Mrs. J. A. Miller, Mrs. H. Stevens, Ongawa, Rose Pockett, William Kleinheinz. Crimson, golden reverse: Harry E. Converse, Howard Gould, Mrs. O. H. Kahn, W. Woodmason. Amaranth or purplish crimson: George J. Bruzard, Mrs. G. C. Kelly, Reginald Vallis. T. Carrington, Leslie Morrison.

''Selection based on special uses.''—Bush plants: Golden Age, Brutus, Dick Witterstaetter, Dr. Enguehard, Garza. Single stemmed pot-plant: Naomah, Chrysolora, .AEsthetic, President Roosevelt, Ben Wells, Glen Cove, Mrs. George Hunt, Mrs. O. H. Kahn, Pockett's Crimson. Exhibition blooms: Artistic Queen, Christy Mathewson, Chrysanthemiste Montigny, F. S. Vallis, George J. Bruzard, Glen Cove, Glenview, Harry E. Converse, Lady Hopetoun, Lenox, Elberon, Morristown, M. Loiseau-Rousseau, Mrs. Gilbert Drabble, Mrs. H. Stevens, Mrs. Harry Turner, Naomah, Pockett's Crimson, Rose Pockett, William Turner, W. Woodmason, Ben Wells, Merza, Reginald Vallis. Commerical blooms.—Extra-early-flowering, July to October: Golden Glow, Smith's Advance. Second-early-flowering, last of September into October: Early Snow, Glory of Pacific, Monrovia, October Frost, Roserie. Early-midseason-flowering, middle of October: Chrysolora, Comoleta, Gloria, Ivory, Pacific Supreme, Unaka, Virginia Poehlmann. Midseason-flowering, last of October to November 10: Col. D Appleton, Crocus, Dick Witterstaetter, Pink Gem, Ramapo, Mrs. W. E. Kelley. Late-mid season-flowering, November 10 to Thanksgiving: Dr. Enguehard, Emberta, Golden Eagle, Golden Wedding, Major Bonnaffon, Patty, President Roosevelt, Timothy Eaton, W. H. Chadwick, Mrs. Jerome Jones, White Bonnaffon. Late-flowering, Thanksgiving and later: December Gem, Harvard, Helen Frick, Intensity, John Burton, Mile. Jeanne Nonin, Thanksgiving Queen, Yanoma.

''Section V.—Culture of chrysanthemums for exhibition.''

This branch in which the highest standard must be attained if the slightest hope of success at the exhibitions is entertained, requires a thorough knowledge of the most suitable kinds for the purpose and the ability to bring them to the highest state of perfection. The methods are not very different from those employed in the production of high-grade commercial blooms. The most successful growers usually propagate earlier, and if grown on benches they are also planted earlier to secure all the vigor possible. The finest blooms are those produced on the private estates, where one man has charge of a few hundred plants, giving them his undivided attention, so that every need is provided at the proper time. During the past few years, the majority of such expert growers have adopted a system of growing in pots, each plant restricted to one bloom, which is practically the same method as the one used throughout England for many years. Here they are kept under glass the entire season, while in England the climate permits them to be grown out-of-doors during the summer months. By this method, the roots are more closely confined, which has a tendency to produce short-jointed plants with stronger stems, and gives the grower perfect control, so that each variety may be treated according to its needs, especially when liquid fertilizers are necessary to promote the maximum in size and finish. The other factors necessary to the successful exhibitor are full consideration of the requirements of the schedules, so as to select the best varieties for the various classes, and a complete knowledge of packing and staging the blooms. During the past decade, those originating new varieties have scrutinized more closely in making a decision, and, as the commercial and exhibition varieties are considered from an entirely different standpoint, these two sections are drifting farther and farther apart. Size is the foremost quality from the exhibition point of view.

At the present time (1912), the varieties generally shown in prize-winning exhibits are: White.—-Beatrice May, Lady Carmichael, Merza, Mrs. David Syme, Naomah, Wm. Turner. Yellow. —F. S. Vallis, Lenox. Mrs. Geo. Hunt, Mrs. J. C. Neill, Yellow Miller. Pink.—Lady Hopetoun, M. Loiseau-Rousseau. Mrs. C. H. Totty, O. H. Broonhead, Wm. Duckham, Wells' Late Pink. Bronze.—Glenview, Harry E. Converse, Mrs. O. H. Kahn, Mrs. H. Stevens. Red.—J. W. Molyneux, Pockett's Crimson, W. Woodmason.

A few of the commercial section are suitable for this purpose, especially when the schedule calls for twelve or more blooms of a kind for one vase and at exhibitions at which artificial supports are prohibited. The best are as follows: White.—Lynnwoood Hall, Timothy Eaton, Chadwick Improved, Mrs. Jerome Jones. Yellow. —Col. D. Appleton, Golden Eagle, Golden Wedding. Yellow Eaton, Golden Chadwick, Major Bonnaffon. Pink.—Dr. Enguehard, Mayor Weaver, Maud Dean. Red.—Dick Witterstaetter, Geo. W. Childs.

''Section VI.—Culture of chrysanthemums out-of-doors.''

The kinds most suitable for out-of-door culture are those making abundance of rhizomes or underground stems, which withstand the winter and furnish the new growths for the successive years. The Pompons are more hardy than the large-flowering sorts, and. as hardiness is of vital importance to those interested in this subject, especially north of the Ohio River, it should be fully considered in selecting for this purpose. It is more practicable to choose varieties which perfect their flowers early, during August, September and October when grown in the northern states, as the buds are less likely to be injured while in a soft growing state by frost. In the South many of the later varieties will live over and be satisfactory, owing to the continuance of mild weather. In the past few years, some improvements in this section have been attained, many of which are the results of crosses between the Pompons and the large-flowering Japanese, in which the progeny have combined the hardiness and dwarf habit of the former with the larger and more irregular-formed flowers of the latter, producing aster-like flowers rather than the symmetrical form of the pompons. All of the types may be successfully grown out-of-doors if provision is made to protect the bud, blooms and roots from severe frost. A temporary covering of cloth or sash in early autumn will protect the blooms, but the roots will require artificial heat or should be removed to the greenhouse or frame where the temperature can be maintained a few degrees above freezing. In growing exhibition blooms, out-of-doors, all the important details, such as watering, airing, disbudding, feeding, staking and tying, must be complied with, if the grower expects to be rewarded for his efforts.

The oldest of the outdoor types are the Pompons, which produce from forty to one hundred buttons an inch or two across, with short and regular rays. Such plants can be left outdoors all winter.

Since the large-flowering or Japanese types have come in, numberless attempts have been made to grow them outdoors, but with poor results. The greenhouse varieties are not so hardy. In the North they are likely to be killed by the winter. Their flowers usually lack in size, depth and symmetry, largely because there are more of them on a plant than a florist allows for his best blooms, but chiefly because they do not have so much care in general as is given to plants under glass, where space is precious. For the very best results, chrysanthemums must be flowered under glass, and they need the greatest care and forethought practically all the year round. Half-way measures are unsatisfactory. Thus it happens that the Japanese varieties are usually unsatisfactory out-of-doors, and the Pompons are chosen by those who can give very little care to plants and would rather have many small flowers than a few large ones. This also partly explains why no two dealers recommend anything like the same list of Japanese varieties for outdoor culture. Nevertheless, it is possible to grow excellent flowers 4 and 5 or even 6 inches across outdoors, but it requires staking, disbudding, and some kind of temporary protection, as of a tent or glass, during frosty weather. Fig. 957 shows a cheap and simple structure of cold frame sashes resting on a temporary framework. In severe weather a canvas curtain can be dropped in front, and the window of a warm cellar in the rear opened to temper the air. For general outdoor culture, however, when no special care is given to the plants, the Japanese kinds are usually less satisfactory than the Pompons. These Pompons are a much-neglected class since the rise of the large-flowered Japanese kinds, but they are unlike anything else in our garden flora. Their vivid and sometimes too artificial colors harmonize with nothing else at Thanksgiving time, and they are so strong and commanding that they should have a place by themselves. It is not uncommon for the flowers to be in good condition even after several light falls of snow, and they may be considered the most resistant to frost of any garden herbs. In fact, their peculiar merit is blooming after the landscape is completely desolated by successive frosts. The flowers are not ruined until their petals are wet and then frozen stiff. They are essentially for mass effects of color, and great size is not to be expected. Masses of brown and masses of yellow, side by side, make rich combinations. The whole tribe of crimsons, amaranths, pinks, and the like, should be kept by themselves, because their colors are variable and because they make a violent contrast with yellow, which few persons can find agreeable. Wilhelm Miller. Elmer Smith.

}}

==Garden Chrysanthemums==
These have a bushy, branched habit. Clusters of flowerheads come in a large variety of colors. They are divided into two loose categories, garden types, which tend to the upright, and cushion, which is more of a mound. Flowers come over a long period, usually during early or midseason They are suitable for annual or herbaceous borders. C. segetum works well in wildflower gardens as well.

==Exhibition Chrysanthemums==
[[Image:CrazyOrangeChrysanthemum-1102.jpg|thumb|200px|right|One of the many unusual forms of flower.]]
The many cultivars in this group come in a riot of colors and forms. They are perennial and grown for cut flowers, garden color/interest and of course, exhibitions. There are many flower forms, with about a dozen popular named styles which they are often categorized by (irregular incurve, reflex, regular incurve, decorative, intermediate incurve, pompon, semi-double, anemone, spoon, quill, spider and brush), along with their flowering season which is broken out into early (late summer and early fall), midseason (late summer/early fall), or late (mid-fall to early winter) - as well as whether they are disbudded or non-disbudded. Those that are disbudded get classified into groups by size. The non-disbudded are classified by size as well as habit.

If you are growing exhibition mums outdoors, your best bet are the ones with an early-flowering spray, reflexed cultivars and pompoms. Midseason reflexed mums make be happy outside, but usually need to be protected from rain and frost. Late-flowering cultivars are brought to flower in a greenhouse - either temperate or warm.

===Disbudded===
Remove all flower buds on a shoot except for the terminal bud for biggest blooms. For an exhibition plant, those with incurred, intermediate or reflexed flowers are restricted to just 2 blooms per plant, while in your garden you can allow 4 or 5 buds to bloom per plant. Single and anemone-centered Chrysanthemums are allowed 4-8 blooms in exhibition, while those for your garden and cutting flowers can have 10 or more.

===Non-disbudded===
Buds are allowed to develop naturally in non-disbudded type plants. The non-disbudded are grouped according their habits:

*Spray chrysanthemums - stems have several flowers. Forms on spray group plants are single, intermediate, reflexed, anemone-centered, pompon, spoon-shaped or quill-shaped. Primarily grown as garden or cutting plants. In an exhibition, each pedicel must have one flowerhead, and the terminal flowerhead must be present, each having at least 5 adjacent flowerheads. Plants in this group grown commercially normally have the central bud removed to give the plant a more rounded shape.
*Charm chrysanthemums - dwarf, bushy, domed habit which is basically spherical, giving hundreds of single-form flowers up to 1 inch (2.5cm) across. They are allowed to grow without stopping or training no matter if they are for the garden, exhibition or as a bonsai.
*Cascade chrysanthemums - flowers are like those of the charm, but trained into different shapes including cascades, pyramids, fans and pillars. Like the charm, these are suitable for bonsai, as well as gardens and exhibitions.
*Pompon chrysanthemums - dwarf, bushy plants. 50 or more flowers are densely arranged, either spherically or hemispherically on a plant. These work well in herbaceous borders.

==Rubellum Group Chrysanthemums==
Perennials. Bushy and clumping. All are hybrids of C. rubellum (syn. Dendranthema zawadskii). Leaves are pinnatisect, frequently silvery. Flowerheads come in a range of colors, all with a yellow center. They may be single, semi-double or double. Flowers from late summer to early fall. Great as cut flowers, and in herbaceous borders.

==Cultivation==
[[Image:Red mums.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Cultivated chrysanthemums can be yellow, white, or even bright red, such as these.]]
'''Early and mid-season flowering mums''' grow outdoors in sheltered spots. They like full sun, fertile soil, which is moist but drains well, neutral (or slightly acidic) pH, with well rotted manure. Balanced fertilizer should be used on the soil in a top-dressing before planting them, which should only be done after any chance of frost has passed. As it grows, provide support if necessary, tying with soft twine as it grows. Eventual height can vary widely, depending partly on pruning and fertilization. Plants can be stopped at 6-8 inches (15-20cm) to help encourage flowering lateral production. Stopping those laterals again will encourage an even larger number of blooms, although they'll be smaller. If you want exhibition type blooms, only allow the right number of strong flower stems to remain. Gradually remove undesirable buds, as laterals reach 3/4 in (2cm) in length. The timing of all of this depends on how quickly the plant is growing, but a rule of thumb is to stop all of the disbudding/stopping by July 15 in cooler climates and by July 25 in warmer.

Water freely when conditions are dry. Give balanced fertilizer once a week to a week and a half from mid-summer to when the buds start showing color. When flowers are past their prime, cut back their stems to 6-9 inches (15-23cm). In cooler climates, dig up the crowns and store them in a frost-free place, in soilless potting mix. In warmer climates, apply a thick layer of dry mulch before winter, and in early spring cut back the plant. '''Early and mid-season exhibition cultivars''' should be protected from frost and rain. These types are best grown in a cold greenhouse or an open-sided plastic-covered lath house, and the same is true for large-flowered exhibition cultivars.

'''Late flowering exhibition chrysanthemums''', which include the charms, cascades and late flowering sprays all do best in a porous soil-based mix that is slightly acidic, and has added manure. Grow in 3 in. (7.5cm) pots and continually repot into larger sizes until they flower in 9-12 inch (25-30cm) pots, supported with stakes. Do not disbud plants until a week and a half after repotting. Begin growing in a cold frame, then move into warm greenhouse early in the fall, providing adequate air ventilation and always maintaining the temprature above 50F (10C). Water moderately beginning in mid-summer on, and give a balanced fertilizer weekly.

'''Rubellum Group''' and '''annual mums''' should be grown in full sun, in well drained soil which is moderately fertile.

===Propagation===
Plant seeds of plants in the charms and cascades groups of Chrysanthemums in late winter to spring at 55-61F (13-16 C). Rubellum group should be sown at the same temperatures in the spring, or by division in fall or early spring. In colder climates sow the seeds of annual types in a cold frame during early spring or ''in situ'' in spring to early summer, and in mild climates sow them ''in situ'' during autumn for them to bloom early early in the season the next year.

Exhibition types which are overwintered can be used to get basal cuttings - for those that are late flowering take the cuttings in early to mid-winter. All other types of Chrysanthemum cuttings can be taken early in spring. Root cuttings at 61F (16C) in a sandy potting mix, preferably soilless. Protect from cold, in cold frame if necessary. Maintain ventilation if possible. Hardening is possible beginning in mid-spring.

===Pests and diseases===
Susceptible to aphids, earwigs, nematodes, capsid bugs, leaf miners, whiteflies, fungal rot, gray mold (Botrytis), powdery mildew, white rust, and viruses. Viruses can result in puckering of the leaves, yellow marks or stunt the growth. Used as food plants by the [[larva]]e of some [[Lepidoptera]] species — see [[list of Lepidoptera which feed on Chrysanthemum]].

==Species==
The genus once included many more species, but has been split. The defining species, ''Chrysanthemum indicum'', was also changed, then changed back after much controversy thereby restoring the economically important florist's chrysanthemum to the genus ''Chrysanthemum''. These species were, after the splitting of the genus but before the ICBN ruling, commonly treated under the genus name ''Dendranthema''.

The other species previously treated in the narrow view of the genus ''Chrysanthemum'' are now transferred to the genus ''[[Glebionis]]''. The other genera split off from ''Chrysanthemum'' include ''[[Argyranthemum]]'', ''[[Leucanthemopsis]]'', ''[[Leucanthemum]]'', ''[[Rhodanthemum]]'', and ''[[Tanacetum]]''.

About 160 species, including:

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|+Sortable table
|-
! Latin !! Synonyms !! Common names !! USDA Zones !! class="unsortable" | Sunset Zones
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum aphrodite]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum arcticum]]'' || Arctanthemum arcticum || none || 0 || 1-24, 32-45
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum argyrophyllum]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum arisanense]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum balsamita]]'' || Tanacetum balsamita || Costmary || 0 || 2-24, 28-41
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum boreale]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum chalchingolicum]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum carinatum]]'' || x || Summer Chrys., Tricolor Chrys. || 0 || All zones
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum chanetii]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Pyrethrum|Chrysanthemum cinerariaefolium]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum coccineum]]'' || Pyrethrum roseum, Tanacetum coccineum || Pyrethrum, Painted daisy || 0 || 2-24, 33-41
|-
| ''[[Garland chrysanthemum|Chrysanthemum coronarium]]'' || x || Crown daisy || 0 || All zones
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum crassum]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum frutescens]]'' || Argyranthemum frutescens || Marguerite, Paris Daisy || 0 || 14-24, 26, 28
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum glabriusculum]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum hypargyrum]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum indicum]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum japonense]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum japonicum]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum lavandulifolium]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum leucanthemum]]'' || Leucanthemum vulgare || Ox-eye Daisy, Common Daisy || 0 || 1-24, 28-43
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum mawii]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum maximowiczii]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum maximum]]'' || C. superbum, Leucanthemum maximum || Shasta Daisy || 0 || 1-24, 26, 28-43
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum mongolicum]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum morifolium]]'' || Dendranthema grandiflorum || Florists' Chrysanthemum || 0 || 2-24, 26, 28-41
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum morii]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum multicaule]]'' || Nipponanthemum nipponicum || none || 0 || 2-24, 29-41
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum okiense]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum oreastrum]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum ornatum]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum pacificum]]'' || Pyrethrum marginatum, Dendranthema pacificum || Gold and Silver Chrys. || 0 || 2-24, 28-41
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum paludosum]]'' || Leucanthemum paludosum || none || 0 || All (annual)
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum parthenium]]'' || Tanacetum parthenium || Feverfew || 0 || 1-24, 28-45
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum potentilloides]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum ptarmiciflorum]]'' || Tanacetum ptarmiciflorum || Dusty Miller, Silver Lace || 0 || 16, 17, 19-24 (all as annual)
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum rubellum]]'' || Dendranthema zawadskii || none || 0 || 1-24, 28-43
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum segetum]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum serotinum]]'' || C. uliginosum || none || 0 || 2-9, 14, 28-43
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum shiwogiku]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum sinuatum]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum vestitum]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum weyrichii]]'' || Dendranthema weyrichii || none || 0 || 2-6, 32, 34-41
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum yoshinaganthum]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|-
| ''[[Chrysanthemum zawadskii]]'' || x || none || 0 || na
|}

{{Inc|
C. coronopifolium, Willd. (syn. C roseum). — C.grande, Hook, f (Plagius grandiflorus, L'Her.) Stout erect perennial of Algeria 2-3 ft.: lvs. oblong to linear oblong, often lyrate. coarsely toothed: fl.-heads large, solitary, rayless, golden yellow, to 2 in. across.—C. grandiflorum, Willd. Shrubby, smooth, from the Canaries, with cuneate lobed lvs,, the parts lanceolate or linear and toothed or entire: fl.-heads solitary, the rays white and disk yellow: allied to C. frutescens; variable.—C. inodorum, Linn. (syn. Matricaria inodora).—C. macrophyllum. Waldst. & Kit. Perennial herb, 3 ft.: lvs. very large, nearly sessile, pinnatisect, the lobes lanceolate and coarsely toothed: heads very many, corymbed; rays white with yellowish tinge, the disk yellow. June, July; an outdoor plant. Hungary.— C. Mawii, Hook. f. Herbaceous, with woody root- stock, 1 ½ ft.: lvs. about 1 in. long, triangular to oblong, pinnatifid: fl.-heads 1 ½ in. diam., long-stalked; rays 3-toothed, white with reddish backs. Mts. Morocco; summer in the open.—C. multiflorum, Hort. Fls. greenish white: said to be a cross between a single-fld. chrysanthemum and C. Pallasianum (Pyrethrum Pallasianum, Maxim., of N. Asia, apparently not a garden species).— C. ochroleucum, Masf. Glabrous undershruo of the Canaries: lvs. obovate-cuneate, coarsely toothed: rays pale yellow. —C. parthenifolium, Willd., a form of C. Parthenium. —C. partheniodes, Voss. One of the feverfew forms; probably C. praealtum.— C. roseum, Web. & Mohr. (C. coronopifolium, Willd., not Vill.), not Bieb. Perennial herb, 2 ½ ft.:lvs. once-pinnate: fl.-heads solitary; rays rose-red or flesh-color. Caucasus.—C. tomentosum, Loisel. An alpine Corsican species: tufted, 2 in. high when in bloom: lvs. pinnatifid, densely tomentose: fl.-heads ¾ in. across, white-rayed, on sts. 1 in. long.— C.viscosum, Desf. Annual: disk orange- yellow, rays sulfur-yellow. Medit.— C.vulgare, Bernh. (syn. Tanacetum vulgare). —C. Zawaaskii, Herbich, of Gallicia, is a tufted plant with rose-tinted fls. all summer. Wilhelm miller. {{SCH}}
}}

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Image:Chrysanthemums.jpg| A cluster of chrysanthemums
Image:IMG 2967.JPG| A cluster of chrysanthemums
Image:Chrysanthemum-6193.jpg
Image:Kiku-The Art of the Japanese Chrysanthemum-5211.jpg
Image:Pink pingpong-6278.jpg
Image:Yellow Button Poms-4554.jpg
Image:Chrysanthemum SAIKOYUBI-6739.jpg
Image:Chrysanthemum paludosum-2005.jpg
Image:A Riot of Mums-6348.jpg
Image:Autumn Chrysanthemums-7986.jpg
Image:Abundant blooms-7651.jpg
Image:Lavender Button Pom-1942.jpg
Image:Orange chrysanthemums with dew-227.jpg
Image:Chrysanthemum-5563.jpg
Image:Green mum-9462.jpg
Image:Pink shaggy mums-5253.jpg
Image:Pink chrysanthemum-2692.jpg
</gallery>

==References==
*{{wplink}}




==External links==

__NOTOC__

Pomegranate

2015-11-09T05:08:24Z

Raffi: /* Propagation */

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Lythraceae
|genus=Punica
|species=granatum
|common_name=Pomegranate
|habit=shrub
|Min ht box=6
|Min ht metric=m
|Max ht box=9
|Max ht metric=m
|Min wd box=3
|Min wd metric=m
|Max wd box=5
|Max wd metric=m
|origin=Iran to the western Himalaya
|lifespan=perennial
|exposure=sun
|water=moist, moderate, dry
|features=flowers, edible, fruit
|flowers=red, double
|Min Temp Num=0
|Temp Metric=°C
|min_zone=9
|max_zone=11
|sunset_zones=5-31, warmer 32
|image=Pomegranate fruit.jpg
|image_width=240
|image_caption=Pomegranate fruit
}}
{{Inc|
Punica granatum, Linn. Pomegranate. A large deciduous shrub or small tree, with oblong or obovate, obtuse, entire, glabrous and more or less shining lvs. : fls. orange-red, showy; calyx tubular, the short lobes persistent on the top of the fr. (as on an apple); petals inserted between the lobes; ovary imbedded in the calyx-tube (or receptacle-tube), comprising several locules or compartments in two series (one series above the other), ripening into a large, juicy, many-seeded pome-like berry. Persia to N. W. India.—A handsome plant, with showy fls. 1 in. across in summer. Hardy as far. north as Washington and Baltimore. It is also grown as a conservatory plant, blooming in winter as well as in summer. For ornament, the double-flowering kinds are the most popular (F.S. 13:1385, as P. Granatum Legrellei). There are many varieties. The treatment of the fruit-bearing varieties is discussed under Pomegranate. Var. nana, Hort. (P. nana, Linn.). Dwarf Pomegranate. Seldom growing higher than a man, and usually treated as a pot-plant in the N. It is the best kind for greenhouse use. The double-fld. form is most common. It is as hardy as the species, and is suitable for outdoor work where the climate is not too severe. On the Pacific Coast it is grown as a hedge-plant as far north as San Francisco. Both this and the species are easily grown by cuttings of dormant wood, as currants are, but the cuttings should be started indoors with some heat.
}}

'''Growth Habits:''' The pomegranate is a neat, rounded shrub or small tree that can grow to 6-9m, but is more typically to 2-4m in height. A dwarf variety, var. ''nana'' (syn. ''Punica nana''), only 1-2m tall is often grown, and breeds true from seed. It is usually deciduous, but in certain areas the leaves will persist on the tree. The trunk is covered by a red-brown bark which later becomes gray. The branches are stiff, angular and often spiny. There is a strong tendency to sucker from the base. Pomegranates are also long-lived. There are specimens in Europe that are known to be over 200 years old. The growth rate declines after about 15 years, however.

'''Foliage:''' The pomegranate has glossy, leathery leaves that are narrow and lance-shaped, 3-8cm long and 0.8-2.5cm broad, with a very short petiole; they are arranged in opposite pairs, occasionally sub-alternate.

'''Flowers:''' The flowers are attractive, usually scarlet, occasionally pink, white or variegated, 3cm across, and normally have five petals (to eight or more in some cultivars) with a crumpled texture and a red, fleshy, tubular calyx which persists on the fruit. The flowers may be solitary or grouped in twos and threes at the ends of the branches. The pomegranate is self-pollinated as well as cross-pollinated by insects. Cross-pollination increases the fruit set. Wind pollination is insignificant.

'''Fruit:''' The fruit is nearly round, 6-12cm diameter, crowned at the apex by the prominent calyx. The tough, leathery skin or rind is typically yellow overlaid with light or deep pink or rich red. The interior is separated by membranous walls and white, spongy, bitter tissue into compartments packed with sacs filled with sweetly acid, juicy, red, pink or whitish pulp or aril. In each sac there is one angular, soft or hard seed. High temperatures are essential during the fruiting period to get the best flavour. The pomegranate may begin to bear one year after planting out, but 2½ to 3 years is more common. Under suitable conditions the fruit should mature from 5–7 months after bloom.

'''Adaptation:''' The Pomegranate is native to southwestern Asia, but has been cultivated for thousands of years west across the Mediterranean region in southern Europe and northern Africa. It prefers a semi-arid mild-temperate to subtropical climate and are naturally adapted to regions with cool winters and hot summers. A humid climate adversely affects the formation of fruit. The tree can be severely injured by temperatures below about -10° to -12°C. In Europe, pomegranates can be grown outside as far north as southern England, and in North America as far north as southern Utah and Washington D.C., but they seldom set fruit in these areas. The tree adapts well to container culture and will sometimes fruit in a greenhouse. The dwarf var. ''nana'' is less hardy, being damaged by temperatures below about -5°C.

{{Inc|
Pomegranate is the vernacular of Punica granatum, a small tree of southern Asia, grown both for ornament and for its edible fruit. It is somewhat grown in the open in the southern states, and also as a pot- or tub-plant in greenhouses in the North.

The natural habit of the pomegranate is of rather bushy growth, but by careful training a tree 15 to 20 feet may be produced. This, however, seems possible only in the southern sections of the United States. A great many shoots spring from the base of the plant; these should be cut out, as it is contended that they withdraw the nutriment which should go to the fruit- bearing stems. The branches are slender, twiggy, nearly cylindrical, somewhat thorny. The leaves are lanceolate, long, narrow, glossy green and with red veins. The flowers have a red thick fleshy calyx, crowned with bright scarlet crumpled petals and numerous stamens. The fruit is globular, topped with a crown-like calyx, and the interior consists of numerous seeds enveloped in a bright crimson or pink-colored pulp, seeds being arranged in segments, separated by a thin skin, and very acid in the typical variety. A cooling acescent drink, known as granadine, is made from the pulpy seeds, with the addition of water and sugar. This is much used in the South, and in certain parts of Europe, and is especially grateful in fevers. This plant will succeed as far as the 35th degree of latitude north, but during extreme cold periods, the plants are sometimes injured by cold in that latitude. For higher latitudes it should be cultivated in tubs, and given a conservatory during winter. For some sections of the South it is used for hedges. The fruit begins to ripen about September and can be kept for several weeks.

The pomegranate is multiplied by hardwood cuttings planted in open ground during February, or by layers and also by softwood cuttings during summer. As the plant forms many shoots, these are often used, as they usually are provided with rootlets. In Florida, Georgia, Alabama, Louisiana, and some of the other southern states, pomegranates are grown commercially and are shipped to the northern and eastern markets. There is a growing demand for the fruit of the pomegranate.

Tne pomegranate is supposed to have been introduced into southern Europe by the Carthaginians, whose Latin name of "Punicus" was thus given and derived. A reference is also found in the sacred scriptures. Theophrastus described it 300 years before the Christian era, and Pliny considered it one of the most valuable fruits, both as to its beauty and medicinal properties. The bark of the root is a well-known astringent employed in therapeutics, in dysentery and diarrhea; the rind of the fruit, when boiled, has for many generations past been the remedy for tenia, and a jet-black smooth writing ink is also made of it.

The pomegranate is a native of some parts of Asia, and by some botanical authors is said to be found also in northern Africa and China. Although of such ancient origin and cultivation, there are but few varieties of the fruit-bearing section disseminated in this country and Europe, but, according to Firminger, several fine varieties have been grown in Bengal from seed brought from Cabul, one being seedless, another growing to the size of "an ordinary human head" and still another as large as a small shaddock.

==Varieties grown for fruit==

Acid, or Wild. — With a sharp acid pulp: fruit often very large, from 3 to 4 inches diameter and with a bright-colored rind.

Dwarf. — A form of the Acid variety, of very low and bushy growth: flowers single: fruit from l 1/2-2inches diameter; pulp very acid. This can be grown in a pot, as it fruits very abundantly.

Paper Shell. — Very large, juicy, very sweet, and of excellent quality; skin thin, pale yellow with crimson cheek; sides crimson: fine grower: good bearer and ships well.

Rhoda. — Fruit crimson, of large size; skin thin but tough; crisp, sweet, and of exquisite flavor.

Spanish Ruby, or Purple-seeded. — As cultivated in Louisiana, seems to be only a form of the Subacid. Fruit large and bright-colored with deep crimson pulp. It is considered the best of its class.

Subacid. — Differs only from the Sweet in the more acidulated pulp.

Sweet. — Fruit usually somewhat smaller than the Acid and with a darker-colored rind; pulp sweet.

Wonderful. — This is said to be the largest of all pomegranates: fruit sometimes 5 inches diameter, bright crimson; pulp highly colored; very juicy; fine flavor: ripens early: good shipper.

All these varieties are very ornamental from their abundant yield of bright scarlet flowers, which are produced upon the extremities of the young branches of the same year's growth. When the plant is grown in a tree form, the branches should be annually cut back after the leaves drop.

Varieties grown for ornament (non-fruiting).

Double Dwarf, or Punica nana racemosa. — Of dwarf growth, with bright scarlet double flowers, which are borne m clusters. This is especially desirable for growing in pots, as its flowers are abundant and lasting.

Double Red. — With a very large calyx, from which protrude numerous large bright scarlet petals, larger than those of the common single type. These are produced in abundance during summer and fall and resemble a bright scarlet pompon.

Double Variegated, or Legrellei. — A very handsome variety with very large flowers, the petals being striped and mottled with vellow and scarlet. Double red blooms will frequently be found on the same stem with variegated blooms. As this is a sport of the Double Red it frequently reverts.

Double Yellow. — Similar to the above in shape of flower, but latter are of a pale yellow color.

Double White. — Form of flower is similar to Double Red, but color is pure white.
}}

==Cultivation==
[[Image:Illustration Punica granatum2.jpg|thumb|120px|Illustration by [[Otto Wilhelm Thomé]], 1885.]]
[[Image:Punica.granatum(01).jpg|thumb|Pomegranate tree]]
[[Image:Pomegranate03 edit.jpg|thumb|250px|Pomegranate fruit, opened]]
'''Location:''' Pomegranates should be placed in the sunniest, warmest part of the yard or orchard for the best fruit, although they will grow and flower in part shade. The attractive foliage, flowers and fruits of the pomegranate, as well as its smallish size make it a excellent landscaping plant.

'''Soil:''' The pomegranate does best in well-drained ordinary soil, but also thrives on calcareous or acidic loam as well as rock strewn gravel.

'''Irrigation:''' Once established, pomegranates can take considerable drought, but for good fruit production they may need to be irrigated. To establish new plants they should be watered every two to four weeks during the dry season. The plants are tolerant of moderately saline water and soil conditions.

'''Fertilizing:''' In the West, the trees are given 60–120g applications of ammonium sulfate or other nitrogen fertilizer the first two springs. After that very little fertilizer is needed, although the plants respond to an annual mulch of rotted manure or other compost.

'''Pruning:''' Plants can be cut back when they are about 0.5-1m high. From this point allow four or five shoots to develop, which should be evenly distributed around the stem to keep the plant well balanced. These should start about 30cm from the ground, giving a short but well-defined trunk. Any shoots which appear above or below can be removed as should any suckers. Since the fruits are borne only at the tips of new growth, it is recommended that for the first three years the branches be judiciously shortened annually to encourage the maximum number of new shoots on all sides, prevent straggly development and achieve a strong well framed plant. After the thirrd year, only suckers and dead branches are removed.

'''Harvest:''' The fruits are ripe when they have developed a distinctive colour and make a metallic sound when tapped. The fruits must be picked before over maturity when they tend to crack open, particularly when rained on. The pomegranate is equal to the apple in having a long storage life. It is best maintained at a temperature of 1° to 5°C and can be kept for a period of 7 months within this temperature range and at 80 to 85% relative humidity without shrinking or spoiling. The fruits improve in storage, becoming juicier and with more flavour.

===Propagation===
The pomegranate can be raised from seed but may not come true. Cuttings root easily and plants from them bear fruit after about 3 years. Cuttings 30-50cm long should be taken in late winter from mature, one-year old wood. The leaves should be removed and the cuttings treated with rooting hormone and inserted about two-thirds their length into the soil or into some other warm rooting medium. Plants can also be air-layered but grafting is seldom successful.

* http://elp.tamu.edu/files/2010/10/Pomegranate-Propagation-2013.pdf
* http://www.gardenguides.com/92887-propagate-pomegranate-trees.html

===Pests and diseases===
Pomegranates are relatively free of most pests and diseases. Minor problems are leaf and fruit spot and foliar damage by white flies, thrips, mealybugs and scale insects. The roots are seldom bothered by rodents but deer will browse on the foliage.

==Cultivars==
*'Balegal' - Originated in San Diego, Calif. Large, roundish fruit, 8cm diameter. Somewhat larger than 'Fleshman'. Skin pale pink, lighter then 'Fleshman'. Flesh slightly darker than 'Fleshman', very sweet.
*'Cloud' - From the Univ. of Calif., Davis pomegranate collection. Medium-sized fruit with a green-red colour. Juice sweet and white.
*'Crab' - From the Univ. of Calif., Davis pomegranate collection. Large fruit have red juice that is tart but with a rich flavour. A heavy bearing tree.
*'Early Wonderful' - Large, deep-red, thin-skinned, delicious fruit. Ripens about 2 weeks ahead of 'Wonderful'. Medium-sized bush with large, orange-red fertile flowers. Blooms late, very productive.
*'Fleshman' - Originated in Fallbrook, Calif. Large, roundish fruit, about 8cm diameter, pink outside and inside. Very sweet, seeds relatively soft, quality very good.
*'Francis' - Originated in Jamaica via Florida. Large, sweet, split-resistant fruit. Prolific producer.
*'Granada' - Originated in Lindsay, Calif. Introduced in 1966. Bud mutation of 'Wonderful'. Fruit resembles Wonderful, but displays a red crown while in the green state, darker red in colour and less tart. Ripens one month earlier than 'Wonderful'. Flowers also deeper red. Tree identical to 'Wonderful'.
*'Green Globe' - Originated in Camarillo, Calif. Large, sweet, aromatic, green-skinned fruit. Excellent quality.
*'Home' - From the Univ. of Calif., Davis pomegranate collection. The fruit is variable yellow-red, with light pink juice that is sweet and of rich flavour. Some bitterness.
*'King' - From the Univ. of Calif., Davis pomegranate collection. Medium to large fruit, somewhat smaller than 'Balegal' and 'Fleshman'. Skin darker pink to red. Flavour very sweet. Has a tendency to split. Bush somewhat of a shy bearer.
*'Legrelliae' - Flowers double, salmon-pink variegated with white; sterile. Grown for its flower display.
*'Phoenicia' ('Fenecia') - Originated in Camarillo, Calif. Large fruit, 4-5 inches in diameter, mottled red-green skin. Flavour sweet, seeds relatively hard.
*'Plena' - Flowers large, double, bright orange-red; sterile. Widely grown for its flower display.
*'Sweet' - Fruit is lighter in colour than 'Wonderful', remains slightly greenish with a red blush when ripe. Pink juice, sweeter than most other cultivars. Excellent in fruit punch. Trees highly ornamental, bears at an early age, productive.
*'Utah Sweet' - Very sweet, good quality fruit. Pink skin and pulp. Seeds notably softer than those of Wonderful and other standard cultivars. Attractive pinkish-orange flowers.
*'Wonderful' - Originated in Florida. First propagated in California in 1896. Large, deep purple-red fruit. Rind medium thick, tough. Flesh deep crimson, juicy and of a delicious vinous flavour. Seeds not very hard. Better for juicing than for eating out of hand. Plant is vigorous and productive. Leading commercial variety in California.

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Image:Pomseeds2.jpg|Pomegranate seeds
Image:Pomegranate opened.jpg|Pomegranate — opened up
Image:WhitePomegranate.JPG|Tree of the white pomegranate
Image:Punica.granatum(04).jpg|Pomegranate leaves
</gallery>

==References==
*[http://www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/pomegranate.html California Rare Fruit Growers: Pomegranate Fruit Facts]
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

__NOTOC__

Mulberry

2015-11-09T05:06:22Z

Raffi: /* Propagation */

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Moraceae
|genus=Morus
|common_name=Mulberry
|habit=tree
|Min ht box=30
|Min ht metric=ft
|Max ht box=40
|Max ht metric=ft
|lifespan=perennial
|exposure=sun
|water=moderate
|features=edible, fruit
|Temp Metric=°F
|min_zone=5
|max_zone=9
|image=Mulberry larger.jpg
|image_width=240
|image_caption=Ripe mulberry on tree
}}
{{Inc|
Morus (the ancient Latin name). Moraceae. Mulberry. Ornamental and fruit-bearing small trees.
Unarmed, fls. dioecious or monoecious, both sexes in small hanging axillary catkins, the males soon falling (Figs. 2390, 2391); calyx 4-parted; stamens 4, the filaments partially inclosed in the calyx-lobes (Fig. 2392): pistillate fl. with one 2-celled ovary and 2 stigmas, and the 4 calyx-lobes adherent to the ovary (Fig. 2393) becoming fleshy and cohering into a long multiple fr. which suggests a blackberry in external appearance (Fig. 2394): real fr. an ovate compressed little achene, covered in the pulpy mass, 1 for every fertile fl. represented in the aggregate fr.—Temperate regions of the Old and New World. About 100 species of Morus have been described, but Bureau, DC. Prodr. 17:237 (1873) reduces them to 5; probably 10 or a dozen species represent the genus as now known. Two species are native in the U. S. Some of the names are now referred to other genera. Many of the names represent cultural forms of M. alba.

Mulberries are grown as food for silkworms and for the edible fruits. The silkworm mulberry of history is M. alba, and the fruit-bearing mulberry of history is M. nigra. Yet, strangely enough, the leading fruit- bearing varieties of North America, are derived from M. alba (see Bailey, Bulletin No. 21, Cornell Experiment Station, and "Evolution of Our Native Fruits"). The native M. rubra has also given varieties which are grown for their fruits. The silkworm mulberry of the Chinese is M, multicaulis, by some considered to be a form of M. alba. This was introduced into North America early in last century, and for a time there was the wildest speculation in the selling and planting of the mulberry tree, and in the rearing of silkworms. These efforts have now largely passed away in North America. M. multicaulis gave rise to one variety which was prized for its fruits, the Downing. This variety is now little known, but the name has been popularly but erroneously transferred to a good variety of M. alba (the New American).

In North America the mulberry is known chiefly as a fruit-bearing tree, although it is never planted extensively and the fruit is scarcely known in the market. Two or three trees about the home grounds are sufficient to supply a family. The fruits are sweet and soft. To many persons they are too sweet. Because of their sweetness they are of little value for culinary uses. They usually drop when ripe. They are harvested by being shaken on sheets or straw. Birds are exceedingly fond of them. In the East and North, varieties of M. alba are chiefly grown, as the New American (frequently cultivated as Downing), Thorburn and Trowbridge. On the Pacific coast and in some parts of the South, varieties of M. nigra are grown, particularly the Black Persian. In parts of the South forms of the native M. rubra are grown, as Hicks and Stubbs. These are popular for planting in hog pastures, as the animals like the fruits. The mulberry thrives in any garden soil. It does well even on thin gravels and rocky slopes. For fruit-bearing purposes, trees may be planted from 20 to 40 feet apart.

The Russian mulberries are offshoots of M. alba. Their particular merits are great hardiness to withstand cold, drought and neglect. They are useful for low windbreaks and also for sheared hedges. They have become popular on the Plains. They are readily propagated by seeds, and the resulting plants are variable. Now and then a large-fruited form appears and it may be named and propagated, but for the most part the Russian mulberry has little merit for its fruits unless one desires to feed the birds.

Varieties of mulberries are now readily worked on seedlings of the Russian. One of the most successful grafts is S. D. Willard's method, shown in Fig. 2395.

The grafting is performed in spring when the bark will slip, using cions which have been kept perfectly dormant or on ice; a is the cion, the lower part being cut thin so that it will enter readily between the bark and wood of the stock; b is the stock, with an incision made through the bark essentially as for shield-budding; c shows the graft bound with cord or raffia; d shows the completed operation, the work being covered with wax. Morns multicaulis grows from cuttings in the South. These cuttings, with the buds removed to prevent sprouting, are often grafted before they are planted with a long cion of the desired variety (see Fig. 1691). The cutting acts as a nurse, and the cion takes root of itself if set deep enough.

There are many mulberries with ornamental forms. Of these, the most popular in America at present is Teas' weeping, a chance seedling of the Russian mulberry tribe. When grafted several feet high on straight Russian stock, it makes one of the best of small weeping lawn trees (Fig. 2396). It originated on the grounds of John C. Teas, Carthage, Missouri, about 1883. Various cut-leaved forms, mostly of M. alba, are seen in fine collections, of which the form known as M. venosa (Fig. 2397) is one of the best. The foliage of mulberries is interesting because so variable. Even on the same tree there may be leaves of several forms, while different trees of the same species may show strong individual traits. The most striking variations are in the lobing of the leaves.
}}

'''''Morus''''' or '''Mulberry''' is a [[genus]] of 10–16 species of [[deciduous]] [[tree]]s native to warm temperate and [[subtropical]] regions of [[Asia]], [[Africa]], [[Europe]], and the [[Americas]], with the majority of the species native to [[Asia]].

The closely related genus ''[[Broussonetia]]'' is also commonly known as mulberry, notably the [[Paper Mulberry]], ''Broussonetia papyrifera''.

Mulberries are fast-growing when young, but soon become slow-growing and rarely exceed 10-15 metres (33-49 ft) tall. The [[leaf|leaves]] are alternately arranged, simple, often lobed, more often lobed on juvenile shoots than on mature trees, and serrated on the margin.

The [[fruit]] is a [[Fruit#Multiple fruit|multiple fruit]], 2-3 centimetres (0.8-1.2 in) long. The fruits when immature are white or green to pale yellow with pink edges. In most species the fruits are red when they are ripening. A fully ripened mulberry in these species is dark purple to black, edible, and sweet with a good flavor in several species. The fruits of the white-fruited [[cultivar]] of the White Mulberry on the other hand are green when unripe and white when ripe; the fruit in this cultivar is sweet, and has a very mild flavor compared with the dark fruits.

==Cultivation==
{{edit-cult}}

===Propagation===
*http://homeguides.sfgate.com/start-growing-mulberry-tree-another-tree-54908.html
*http://www.gardenguides.com/91374-propagate-mulberry-tree.html

===Pests and diseases===
{{edit-pests}}

==Species==
''Morus'' taxonomy is complicated and under dispute. Just 10–16 species of the many named are generally accepted, though there are different groups accepting different names. Large amounts of hybridization has also complicate their classification, with generally fertile hybrids.

These species are generally accepted:
{|
|
*''Morus alba'' ([[White Mulberry]]; eastern Asia)
*''Morus australis'' ([[Morus australis|Chinese Mulberry]]; southeastern Asia)
*''Morus celtidifolia'' (Mexico)
*''Morus insignis'' (South America)
|
*''Morus mesozygia'' ([[Morus mesozygia|African Mulberry]]; southern and central Africa)
*''Morus microphylla'' ([[Texas Mulberry]]; south central North America: Texas, Mexico)
*''Morus nigra'' ([[Black Mulberry]]; southwest Asia)
*''Morus rubra'' ([[Red Mulberry]]; eastern North America)
|}

This list of Morus are all from E and SE Asia. They are additionally accepted by at least one taxonomic list/study; [[synonymy]] as given by other lists/studies is shown in parentheses:
{|
|
*''Morus atropurpurea''
*''Morus bombycis'' (''M. australis'')
*''Morus cathayana''
*''Morus indica'' (''M. alba'')
*''Morus japonica'' (''M. alba'')
*''Morus kagayamae'' (''M. australis'')
*''Morus laevigata'' (''M. alba'' var. ''laevigata, M. macroura'')
*''Morus latifolia'' (''M. alba'')
*''Morus liboensis''
|
*''Morus macroura'' (''M. alba'' var. ''laevigata'')
*''Morus mongolica'' (''M. alba'' var. ''mongolica'')
*''Morus multicaulis'' (''M. alba'')
*''Morus notabilis''
*''Morus rotundiloba''
*''Morus serrata'' ([[Morus serrata|Himalayan Mulberry]]; ''M. alba'' var. ''serrata'')
*''Morus tillaefolia''
*''Morus trilobata'' (''M. australis'' var. trilobata'')
*''Morus wittiorum''
|}

==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:Morus-alba.jpg| White mulberry
Image:Morus alba fruits.jpg|Ripening fruit of a wild color-like variety
Image:Red Mulberry Leaf Topside 600.jpg| Red Mulberry leaf
</gallery>

==References==




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Aristolochia gigantea

2015-08-25T18:10:20Z

Raffi:

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Aristolochiaceae
|genus=Aristolochia
|species=gigantea
|common_name=Giant Dutchman's Pipe
|habit=vine-climber
|Min ht metric=cm
|Max ht box=10
|Max ht metric=m
|Max wd box=10
|Max wd metric=m
|origin=Brazil, Costa Rica, Panama
|lifespan=perennial
|exposure=sun, part-sun
|water=moist
|features=flowers
|flower_season=mid summer, late summer
|flowers=red, purple, brown, black, multicolored, spotted
|Min Temp Num=50
|Temp Metric=°F
|min_zone=10
|max_zone=11
|image=Aristolochia_gigantea-giant_dutchmans_pipe.jpg
|image_width=240
|image_caption=Aristolochia gigantea grown indoors
}}
'''''Aristolochia gigantea''''' ('''Brazilian Dutchman's Pipe''', '''Pelican Flower'''; [[syn.]] ''Aristolochia sylvicola'' Standl.) is an evergreen, fast growing vine, native to [[Brazil]].

==Cultivation==
Prefers fertile soil with good drainage{{AHS}}. Grow in sun or part-sun{{AHS}}. Provide strong support, and you may prune after flowering{{AHS}}.

===Propagation===
Cuttings for true clones. 4-5 inch cuttings taken in fall when flowering is tapering off. Use rooting hormone and plant in fast draining propagating mix in a warm place, preferably with bottom heat<ref>http://www.plantoftheweek.org/week024.shtml</ref>. Softwood cuttings must be kept moist. Seeds can be soaked for 2 days, then sown at 70-75F (21-24C) upon ripening, or in spring. Need light for germination.

=== Pests and Diseases ===
Some problems you may encounter include ''Cercospora'' leaf spot, gray mold, [[Southern blight]], ''Pythium'' root rot{{AHS}}.

==Varieties==
[[File:Aristolochia1.jpg|thumb|200px|Aristolochia gigantea 'Brasiliensis']]
Aristolochia gigantea 'Pelican Flower' - Even in partial sun, this Brazilian vine displays large, heart-shaped leaves and unique flowers. Ivory veining against a burgundy velvet background with long tubular flowers reminds us of its coined name"Dutchman’s Pipes."

Aristolochia gigantea 'Brasiliensis' - Spectacular flowers, up to 1 foot long (30 cm), this species from Brazil is huge. Each flower displays an intricate pattern of white and mottled reddish-brown. Draw close to it and smell its lemon scent. With a little training, it can be contained to a limited space, such as a hanging basket.

==Gallery==

<gallery perrow=5>
Image:AristolochiaGigantea.jpg
Image:AristolochiaGiganteaVine.jpg
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
<references/>
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Freesia andersoniae

2015-08-23T19:16:31Z

Raffi:

{{SPlantbox
|genus=Freesia
|species=andersoniae
|taxo_author=L.Bolus
|habit=bulbous
|origin=Cape Province, Free State
|lifespan=perennial
|Temp Metric=°F
|min_zone=on
|max_zone=on
|jumpin=If this plant info box on watering; zones; height; etc. is mostly empty you can click on the edit tab and fill in the blanks!
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==

===Propagation===

===Pests and diseases===

==Varieties==

==Gallery==
<gallery perrow=5>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
<references/>




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Freesia laxa

2015-08-23T19:15:42Z

Raffi:

{{SPlantbox
|genus=Freesia
|species=laxa
|common_name=False Freesia, Scarlet Freesia
|habit=bulbous
|lifespan=perennial
|exposure=sun
|water=moderate, dry
|features=flowers, fragrance, naturalizes, houseplant
|flowers=red, pink, spotted
|Temp Metric=°F
|min_zone=8
|max_zone=11.5
|sunset_zones=8, 9, 12-24 (west only)
|image=Anomatheca laxa01.JPG
|image_width=200
}}
'''''Freesia laxa''''' or False Freesia ([[Synonymy|syn.]] ''Anomatheca cruenta'', ''Anomatheca laxa'', ''Lapeirousia cruenta'', ''Lapeirousia laxa'') is an [[ornamental plant]] native to [[South Africa]] and [[Mozambique]]. Forms clumps of grass-like leaves. [[Flower]]s are usually pink to purple-red, or less frequently white or pale blue. [[Self sows]].

==Cultivation==

===Propagation===
Seed, division

===Pests and diseases===

==Varieties==
'Joan Evans' variety is only 6 inches (15cm) tall, and has pale-centered pink flowers.

==Gallery==
<gallery perrow=5>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
<references/>



* {{cite book | author=[[Alfred Pink|Pink, A.]] | title=[http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/11892 Gardening for the Million.] | year=[[2004]] | publisher=[[Project Gutenberg|Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation]]}}

==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Freesia caryophyllacea

2015-08-23T19:14:20Z

Raffi: Created page with "{{SPlantbox |genus=Freesia |species=caryophyllacea |taxo_author=N.E.Br. |habit=bulbous |origin=Heuningrug region in Cape Province |lifespan=perennial |Temp Metric=°F |min_zon..."

{{SPlantbox
|genus=Freesia
|species=caryophyllacea
|taxo_author=N.E.Br.
|habit=bulbous
|origin=Heuningrug region in Cape Province
|lifespan=perennial
|Temp Metric=°F
|min_zone=on
|max_zone=on
|jumpin=If this plant info box on watering; zones; height; etc. is mostly empty you can click on the edit tab and fill in the blanks!
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==

===Propagation===

===Pests and diseases===

==Varieties==

==Gallery==
<gallery perrow=5>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
<references/>




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Freesia

2015-08-23T19:11:17Z

Raffi: /* Species */

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Iridaceae
|genus=Freesia
|common_name=Freesia
|habit=bulbous
|Min ht metric=cm
|Max ht box=40
|Max ht metric=cm
|Max wd box=15
|Max wd metric=cm
|origin=S Africa
|lifespan=perennial
|exposure=sun
|water=moist
|features=flowers, fragrance, naturalizes
|flower_season=early fall, mid fall, late fall
|flowers=red, orange, yellow, blue, purple, multicolored, white, single, double
|Temp Metric=°F
|min_zone=8
|max_zone=11
|sunset_zones=8, 9, 12-24, 28, indoors
|image=Freesia.jpg
|image_width=240
|image_caption=Cultivated freesias
|min_temp=20°F
}}
Flowers give of a rich perfume. White or yellow blooms tend to have strongest perfume. Row of 2 inch tubular flowers appear on stems about the same height as leaves. Flowers may be single or double, white, yellow, pink, red, orange, purple, lavender, blue or various combination's of these colors.

{{Inc|
Freesia (name unexplained, perhaps personal). Iridaceae. Popular "bulbs for fall planting and winter blooming, and next to the Chinese narcissus, which may be grown in water, they flourish in home windows with less care than most other bulbs; they are also much- prized florists' plants; easily grown, attractive, and fragrant.{{SCH}}

Cormous plants, with plane narrow lvs. at the base and somewhat on the sts., and showy fls. in small clusters at the top of the slender st.: perianth tubular and funnel-shaped, the segms. more or less unequal; stamens 3, inserted in the tube, the anthers linear; ovary ovoid or oblong, 3-celled, with crowded ovules, the style filiform and the branches 2-fid (Tritonia, closely allied, has simple style-branches): fr. a loculicidal 3- valved caps., bearing turgid seeds.—S. Afr., probably 2 or 3 original species, but the specific limits difficult of determination.{{SCH}}

Freesias have well-shaped tubular flowers, white or pale yellow. The five to seven flowers are upright and attached along a jointed axis which is suddenly bent back almost at right angles to the vertical peduncle. The popularity of freesias is a growth of the last quarter century or more, although they have been in cultivation since 1816 or earlier. Conservative botanists now suppose that the usual garden freesias are all originally of one stock, which species should be called F. refracta. Extremes of variation in form are shown in Figs. 1578 and 1579, from the long and slender tube of var. alba to the short and broader tube of var. Leichtlinii. One of the earliest pictures of the plant is that in the "Botanical Register" for 1816 (Plate 135. as Tritonia refracta), a part of which is reproduced in Fig. 1578 to show the great irregularity of the corolla-lobes at that early period, and the straggling habit of the flowers, some pointing down and others up. The garden evolution of the freesias has proceeded along two lines. The greatest effort has been expended to produce a pure white flower, and in the best strains the white color is mostly associated with a long and slender tube. The ideal of a yellow flower is less popular, and is mostly associated with the shorter and broader tube. In both cases the forms with straggling inflorescence and irregular corolla-lobes have been suppressed. One may readily see how strongly two-lipped and gaping were the flowers of 1816, and how much the tube was bulged on one side. Any tendencies toward such forms in modern bulbs are signs of undesirable characters. In pedigree plants the lobes are rounded and the flowers symmetrical.{{SCH}}

These plants are much forced by florists, chiefly for cut-flowers at Christmas. If cut when only two flowers are out, the others will open. They may be had in flower from Christmas until June by successional plantings from August to February. For the best results the largest and highest-priced bulbs should be planted as early as August. Under good care, the bloom may be secured in ten to twelve weeks after the bulbs are planted; it is not necessary that the bulbs be kept cool or stored for a time after potting, as is the case with hyacinths and tulips, for they root quickly and start rapidly into growth. For holiday bloom, the bulbs are planted in October. One of the strong points of freesias is that planting may be delayed longer than with many other bulbs. Bottoms may be dried off gradually in the pots and then be shaken out and kept dry during summer. Repot; the larger bulbs will bloom, but will not give so good results as medium-sized imported bulbs not previously forced. When the plants are growing, keep them cool and moist. Provide good drainage, and let the potting earth contain a little sand and more or less fibrous material. Usually several bulbs are planted together in pots or boxes (about six bulbs in a 5-inch pot). Offsets are freely produced and these may be used for propagation; or seeds may be employed, giving blooming plants in two or three years, or sometimes the recent hybrid forms are said to give bloom in six to seven months from seeding.{{SCH}}
}}

==Cultivation==
{{monthbox
| color = IndianRed
| name = Freesia
| jan = flowering**
| feb = flowering**
| mar = flowering**
| apr = plant*
| may =
| jun =
| jul = plant**
| aug = plant**, flowering*
| sep = flowering*
| oct = flowering*
| nov =
| dec =
| notes = *outdoors, **indoors
}}
In mild climates, plant 2-3in (508cm) deep and apart (pointed end up) in autumn for spring flowering, or in the spring for summer flowering. After flowering, the leaves and stems will dry up, and then sprout from the corms again the next fall.

In cold climates, plant 2in deep indoors in a pot, and 2in apart. Keep in sunny window, with night temperatures as cool as you can. Use a soil-based potting soil with added grit.

===Propagation===
Freesia will [[self-sow]] if dead flower stems are left alone, though seedling may revert to simple white or cream flowers. Corms will quickly multiply underground. If you purchase or collect seeds, they can be planted in July-August and should sprout easily, possibly blooming their first spring.

===Pests and diseases===
Freesias are used as food plants by the [[larva]]e of some [[Lepidoptera]] species including [[Large Yellow Underwing]].

==Species==
There are 16 species of Freesia, all native to [[Africa]]. Of the species, 12 are native to [[Cape Province]], [[South Africa]], and two to tropical Africa, one species extending north of the equator to [[Sudan]]. ''F. refracta'' is the most commonly grown species, which during the 19th century got crossed with ''F. leichtlinii''. Many cultivars arose from those species, as well as pink and yellow flowering ''F. corymbosa''.

{{#ask: [[genus::Freesia]]
| ?common_name
| ?habit
| ?lifespan
| ?exposure
| ?water
| ?min_zone
| ?max_zone
}}

Freesia hybrida{{SCH}}:
{{Inc|

Freesia hybrida, Hort. Here belong many hybrid forms, some of them known as the "colored freesias," as: F. chapmanii, a cross of the typical F. refracta (F. aurea, Hort.), with var. alba, producing a soft yellow flushed with deeper yellow and with an orange blotch (Gn. 71, p. 165. G.M. 50:164. G. 31:175); F. tubergenii, being a cross of F. refracta alba, and F. armstrongii (G.W. 13, p. 199. G. 28:215. Gn. 69, p. 184. J.H. III. 52:299); F. kcwensis, hybrid probably between F. Armstrongii and F. Leichtlinii; F. Mdidenii, being F. refracta alba x F. Armstronffii; F. Ragwnieri, a race resulting from the crossing of F. refracta, F. Leichtlinii and their hybrids with F. Armstrongii, described as producing scented fls. tinted in shades of pink, rose, purple, blue, brown, orange, and spotted and veined.
{{SCH}}
}}

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Image:Hot pink-150.jpg
Image:Freesia buds-3304.jpg
Image:Freesia-5388.jpg
Image:Bunch of cut freesia-462.jpg
Image:Freesias 4-7989.jpg
Image:Klein aber fein, piccola ma bella-2503.jpg
Image:Freesia with buds-1092.jpg
Image:Soft white, sanftes weiss, bianco delicato-5767.jpg
Image:Freesia in the Rain-3475.jpg
</gallery>

==References==
*{{wplink}}

*American Horticultural Society: A-Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants, by Christopher Brickell, Judith D. Zuk. 1996. ISBN 0789419432
*Sunset National Garden Book. Sunset Books, Inc., 1997. ISBN 0376038608

==External links==

__NOTOC__

Freesia andersoniae

2015-08-23T19:06:13Z

Raffi: Created page with "{{SPlantbox |genus=Freesia |species=andersoniae |taxo_author=L.Bolus |common_name=Cape Province, Free State |habit=bulbous |lifespan=perennial |Temp Metric=°F |min_zone=on |m..."

{{SPlantbox
|genus=Freesia
|species=andersoniae
|taxo_author=L.Bolus
|common_name=Cape Province, Free State
|habit=bulbous
|lifespan=perennial
|Temp Metric=°F
|min_zone=on
|max_zone=on
|jumpin=If this plant info box on watering; zones; height; etc. is mostly empty you can click on the edit tab and fill in the blanks!
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==

===Propagation===

===Pests and diseases===

==Varieties==

==Gallery==
<gallery perrow=5>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
<references/>




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Hibiscus schizopetalus

2015-08-23T19:00:06Z

Raffi: /* Propagation */

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Malvaceae
|genus=Hibiscus
|species=schizopetalus
|common_name=Coral Hibiscus, Skeleton Hibiscus, Japanese Lantern, Fringed Hibiscus
|habit=shrub
|Min ht box=6
|Min ht metric=ft
|Max ht box=8
|Max ht metric=ft
|Min wd box=5
|Min wd metric=ft
|Max wd box=6
|Max wd metric=ft
|origin=Tropical E Africa
|lifespan=perennial
|exposure=part-sun
|water=moist
|features=flowers, houseplant
|flowers=red, pink
|Min Temp Num=60
|Temp Metric=°F
|min_zone=9
|max_zone=11
|image=IMG 2625 ucla09.jpg
|image_width=240
}}
A weeping tree hibiscus. Grows rapidly and blooms freely. Hanging pink or red/coral colored flowers have 2.5 inch petals that curve up, with many deep lacy lobes, giving a beautiful effect. This fast growing shrub reaches 6-8 feet with a spread of 5-6 feet. Flowers sporadically year-round in greenhouse or in tropics, or during warm season elsewhere.

Can be grown as hanging basket plants and treated as an annual.

{{Inc|
Hibiscus schizopetalus, Hook. f. Tall glabrous shrub with slender drooping branches: lvs. ovate-elliptic, toothed: bracteoles minute: fls. pendulous, on long jointed peduncles, red or orange-red, the recurved petals beautifully and deeply cut; calyx tubular; stamens long-exserted: fr. long, bearing smooth seeds. E. Trop. Afr.—A beautiful species, for the warmhouse; grown in the American tropics.
}}

==Cultivation==
Grow in part shade and intermediate to warm temperatures. 2 parts peat moss to 2 parts loam to 1 part sand or perlite has been a successful potting medium. Do not allow to dry out, keep plant moist at all times. Give a monthly balanced fertilizer at ½ the strength recommended on the label.

Prune often to keep a desired form. Pruning often to give and keep shape, as well as encourage blooms which form on new wood.

===Propagation===
Take cuttings of half-ripe wood or newer growth, though half ripe is preferable. Place cuttings in water until roots of 1/4 inch have emerged from the stem. Plant in potting soil until roots are strong and cutting is ready for transplant into garden or larger pot.

===Pests and diseases===
aphids, whiteflies

==Cultivars==

==Gallery==
{{photo-sources}}

<gallery>
Image:IMG 2624 ucla09.jpg| photo 1
Image:IMG 2623 ucla09.jpg| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Halberd-leaved rosemallow

2015-08-23T18:55:51Z

Raffi: Redirected page to Hibiscus laevis

#REDIRECT [[Hibiscus laevis]]

Template:Plantbox

2015-08-23T18:51:31Z

Raffi: have form fields ge

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<noinclude>

==About this template==
This template is adopted and significantly changed from an archived Wikipedia version. It makes life easy when transferring info here, while also making it easy to add addition useful gardening information.

Variables and typical classifications:
* common_names = Rose, Apple, etc
* growth_habit = Tree, Vine, Bush, Groundcover, Bulbous
* high = How high does the plant grow (in metric and english)
* wide = How wide does the plant grown (in metric and english)
* lifespan = Annual, Perennial, Biennial
* origin = what country/region is it native to, or is it of garden origin
* exposure = Full sun, Part shade/Part sun, Shade
* features = Naturalizes, fruit, veg, flowers, fragrance, foliage
* poisonous = Yes (if poisonous) or else leave this out
* hardiness = Hardy (ie. survives freezing winters), Frost tender (frost kills it), Tender
* bloom = Late Spring to Fall (Seasons plant blooms - if it is grown for flowers)
* usda_zones = 1-11 (see http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html )
* sunset_zones = 1-45 (see http://www.sunset.com/sunset/garden/article/1,20633,845218,00.html )

==Copy paste the following and fill out==
{{Plantbox
| color = IndianRed 
| name = ''latin name'' 
| image = Pink_petunias.jpg 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = Petunias 
| common_names = 
| growth_habit = 
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| wide = 
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| water = 
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}}

</noinclude>

Hibiscus acetosella

2015-08-23T18:42:44Z

Raffi: Created page with "{{SPlantbox |familia=Malvaceae |genus=Hibiscus |species=acetosella |common_name=Red-leaf hibiscus |Temp Metric=°F |min_zone=on |max_zone=on |jumpin=If this plant info box on ..."

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Malvaceae
|genus=Hibiscus
|species=acetosella
|common_name=Red-leaf hibiscus
|Temp Metric=°F
|min_zone=on
|max_zone=on
|jumpin=If this plant info box on watering; zones; height; etc. is mostly empty you can click on the edit tab and fill in the blanks!
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
Describe the plant here...

==Cultivation==

===Propagation===

===Pests and diseases===

==Varieties==

==Gallery==
<gallery perrow=5>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
<references/>




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
__NOTOC__

Hibiscus

2015-08-23T18:03:44Z

Raffi: /* Species */

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Malvaceae
|genus=Hibiscus
|habit=shrub
|Min ht metric=cm
|lifespan=perennial, annual
|exposure=sun
|water=moderate, dry
|features=flowers
|flowers=red, orange, yellow, blue, purple, multicolored, pink, white, single, double, everblooming
|Temp Metric=°F
|sunset_zones=varies by species
|image=A flower close to the ground-4261.jpg
|image_width=240
}}
'''''Hibiscus''''', or '''rosemallow''', is a large genus of about 200-220 species of [[flowering plant]]s native to warm, temperate, subtropical and tropical regions throughout the world. The genus includes both annual and perennial [[herbaceous]] plants, and woody [[shrub]]s and small [[tree]]s. Seven species are commonly grown, one is annual, another is a perennial that is like a shrub, two are shrubs that are decidious and three shrubs that are evergreen. These seven are cultivated primarily for their showy flowers, though one is grown mostly as food and another for its colored foliage.

The [[leaf|leaves]] are alternate, simple, ovate to lanceolate, often with a toothed or lobed margin. The [[flower]]s are large, conspicuous, trumpet-shaped, with five or more [[petal]]s, ranging from white to pink, red, purple or yellow, and from 4-15 cm broad. The [[fruit]] is a dry five-lobed capsule, containing several [[seed]]s in each lobe, which are released when the capsule splits open at maturity.

{{Inc|
Hibiscus (old Latin name). Including Abelmoschus and Paritium. Malvaceae. Rose-mallow. Showy-flowered garden and greenhouse herbs and shrubs; in the tropics some of them are trees.

Hibiscus is a polymorphous genus, allied to Gossypium, Abutilon, Althaea and Malva, the species widely distributed in temperate and tropical countries: herbs or shrubs, or even trees, with leaves palmately veined or parted: parts of the fl. in 5's; calyx gamosepalous, 5-toothed or 5-cleft, subtended by an involucel of narrow bracteoles; corolla usually campanulate, showy, of 5 distinct petals; stamens united into a 5-toothea column; ovary 5-loculed, bearing 5 styles: fr. a dry, more or less dehiscent caps (Fig. 1828).—Between 150 and 200 species, of which perhaps 20 occur in the U. S. Horticultur- ally, there are 4 general groups of Hibiscus—the annuals, the perennial border herbs, the hardy shrubs, and the glasshouse shrubs, to which might Dc added the treelike species of tropical countries that are often planted along roadsides and about dwellings. The perennial herbaceous species are among the boldest subjects for planting in remote borders or in roomy places, particularly in soil that is damp. These plants, of the H. Moscheutos type, are commonly known as marsh-mallows, but this name properly belongs to Altheae officinalis.

In recent years, improved and valuable hardy forms of the native herbaceous rose-mallows have been introduced. They bloom throughout a long season. (Fig. 1829.) The Meehan Mallow Marvels were introduced in 1905, the first successful cross having been made in 1898. They are stated to be hybrids of H. coccineus, H. militaris, and H. moscheutos. They arc in pink, shades of red, and white; the flowers often have an eye of different color. The Giant-flowering marsh-mallows of Bobbink & Atkins, now catalogued as H. moscheutos hybrids, were first offered in 1909 at retail and in 1911 to the trade. They are stated to be hybrids of H. coccineus and H. moscheulos, the first cross being made in 1905, first plant flowered in 1906. The colors range from white to crimson, sometimes with an eye. The culture of such a various group as hibiscus cannot be described in detail. In general, the species present no special difficulties. They are strong and profuse growers, and mostly thrive under a variety of conditions.—The herbaceous perennial species are late summer and fall bloomers, with hollyhock-like flowers. They send up new strong shoots or canes each year. Many of them are perfectly hardy in the North, but even these profit by a mulch covering. Others are tender in the North, and the roots should be taken up after frost and stored in a dry, warm cellar. Keep them just moist enough to maintain life in them. Many times the roots of these herbaceous species are set in large pots in the spring, and they then make excellent specimens. All the species require a deep rich soil and a good unfailing supply of moisture.—The only popular glasshouse species in this country is H. rosa-sinensis, a showy and floriferous summer bloomer, of many varieties.
}}

==Cultivation==
Tropical hibiscus plants need to be kept in warm temperatures, and bloom best in temperatures ranging from 15 to 35 degrees. They like regular water, but may tolerate low levels of water. Ensure good drainage so water does not sit by the roots. Water more in warm weather, and in colder weather, only water the plant if it looks dry. Hibiscus thrive with plant food. If you are potting your flower, make sure the pot excellent drainage. Spraying plants and under leaves with strong jets of water helps protect against aphid and whitefly infestations. Care for individual species can vary a great deal, so see species listed below for additional information.

===Propagation===
Mainly by rooting cuttings or seed.

===Pests and diseases===
Whitefly, aphids, scales, etc. ''Hibiscus'' species are used as food plants by the [[larva]]e of some [[Lepidoptera]] species including ''[[Chionodes|Chionodes hibiscella]]'', ''[[Hypercompe|Hypercompe hambletoni]]'', the [[Nutmeg (moth)|Nutmeg moth]], and the [[Turnip Moth]].

==Species==
In temperate zones, probably the most commonly grown [[ornamental plant|ornamental]] species is ''[[Hibiscus syriacus]]'', the common garden Hibiscus, also known in some areas as the "Rose of Althea" or "Rose of Sharon" (but not to be confused with the unrelated ''[[Hypericum calycinum]]'', also called "Rose of Sharon"). In tropical and subtropical areas, the [[Chinese hibiscus]] (''H. rosa-sinensis''), with its many showy hybrids, is the most popular hibiscus.

{{#ask: [[Genus::Hibiscus]]
| ?common_name
| ?habit
| ?lifespan
| ?exposure
| ?water
| ?min_temp
}}

About 200-220 species are known, including the following ('''the top 7 species grown are in bold'''):
{{col-begin}}
{{col-2}}
*'''''[[Hibiscus acetosella]]''''' - Red-leaf hibiscus
*''[[Hibiscus arnottianus]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|Koki'o 'ula]]
*''[[Hibiscus brackenridgei]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|Ma'o hau hele]]
*''[[Hibiscus calyphyllus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus cameronii]]''
*''[[Hibiscus cannabinus]]'' - [[Kenaf]]
*''[[Hibiscus cisplatinus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus clayi]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus]] (red)
*''[[Hibiscus coccineus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus dasycalyx]]'' - Neches River rose-mallow
*''[[Hibiscus denudatus]]'' - [[Pale face]]
*''[[Hibiscus diversifolius]]''
*''[[Hibiscus elatus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus fragilis]]'' - [[Mandrinette]]
*''[[Hibiscus furcellatus]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|'Akiohala]]
*''[[Hibiscus fuscus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus grandiflorus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus coccineus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus hamabo]]''
*''[[Hibiscus hastatus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus heterophyllus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus indicus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus insularis]]'' - Phillip Island Hibiscus
{{col-2}}
[[Image:Hawaiian Flower.JPG|right|thumb|A white ''[[Hibiscus arnottianus]]'' in Hawaii.]]
[[Image:Hibiscus India Kerala1.jpg|right|thumb|A red Hibiscus of [[Kerala]] (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis).]]
*''[[Hibiscus laevis]]'' - [[Halberd-leaved rosemallow]]
*''[[Hibiscus lasiocarpos]]''
*''[[Hibiscus lavaterioides]]''
*''[[Hibiscus ludwigii]]''
*''[[Hibiscus macrophyllus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus militaris]]'' - Syn. of ''Hibiscus laevis''
*'''''[[Hibiscus moscheutos]]''''' - [[Hibiscus moscheutos|Swamp Rose-mallow]] or Perennial Hibiscus
*'''''[[Hibiscus mutabilis]]''''' - [[Cotton rosemallow]], Confederate rose
*''[[Hibiscus paramutabilis]]''
*''[[Hibiscus pedunculatus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus platanifolius]]''
*''[[Hibiscus radiatus]]''
*'''''[[Hibiscus rosa-sinensis]]''''' - [[Chinese hibiscus]], Tropical hibiscus
*'''''[[Hibiscus sabdariffa]]''''' - [[Roselle]] or Omutete or Jamaica Sorrel or Jamaica flower
*'''''[[Hibiscus schizopetalus]]''''' - [[Japanese lantern hibiscus]]
*''[[Hibiscus scottii]]''
*''[[Hibiscus sinosyriacus]]''
*'''''[[Hibiscus syriacus]]''''' - [[Hibiscus syriacus|Rose of Sharon]] or Shrub Althaea
*''[[Hibiscus tiliaceus]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|Hau]]
*''[[Hibiscus trionum]]'' - [[Flower-of-an-Hour]]
*''[[Hibiscus waimeae]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|Koki'o ke'oke'o]]
{{col-end}}

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Image:Peach Double Hibiscus -7129.jpg
Image:Hibiscus purple cream-2036.jpg
Image:White hibiscus-2012.jpg
Image:Yellow pink hibiscus-5649.jpg
Image:Giant Hibiscus-884.jpg
Image:Survival in the shadow of the wood-4458.jpg
Image:Yellow pinkeye-208.jpg
Image:A flower close to the ground-4261.jpg
Image:Hibiscus-stages.jpg|At left, a flower emerges from a bud. At right, the same flower less than 18 hours later.
Image:Hibiscus1.jpg|A hibiscus, showing [[pistil]] and [[stamen]]s
Image:DSC02081.JPG|Pink hibiscus
</gallery>

==External links==
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hibiscus Wikipedia: Uses, history]

__NOTOC__

Acacia

2015-08-23T18:01:17Z

Raffi: /* Species */

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Fabaceae
|genus=Acacia
|common_name=Acacia, thorntree, wattle
|lifespan=perennial
|features=evergreen, deciduous
|Temp Metric=°F
|image=Acacia pycnantha Golden Wattle.jpg
|image_width=240
|image_caption=Acacia pycnantha (Golden Wattle)
}}
'''''Acacia''''' ({{pron-en|əˈkeɪʃə}}) is a [[genus]] of [[shrub]]s and [[tree]]s belonging to the family [[Fabaceae]]. Acacias are also known as '''thorntrees''', '''[[whistling thorn]]s''' or '''wattles''', including the '''yellow-fever acacia''' and '''umbrella acacias'''.

Until 2005, there were thought to be roughly 1300 [[species]] of acacia worldwide, about 960 of them native to [[Australia]], with the remainder spread around the tropical to warm-[[temperate]] regions of both hemispheres, including [[Europe]], [[Africa]], southern [[Asia]], and the [[Americas]]. However, the genus was then divided into five, with the name ''Acacia'' retained for the Australian species, and most of the species outside Australia divided into ''[[Vachellia]]'' and ''[[Senegalia]].''

Acacias are also known as '''thorntrees''' or '''wattles''', including the yellow-fever acacia and umbrella acacias.

A few species are widely grown as ornamentals in [[garden]]s; the most popular perhaps is ''Acacia dealbata'' (Silver Wattle), with its attractive glaucous to silvery leaves and bright yellow flowers; it is erroneously known as "mimosa" in some areas where it is cultivated, through confusion with the related genus ''[[Mimosa]]''.

The [[Leaf|leaves]] of acacias are compound [[pinnate]] in general. In some species, however, more especially in the Australian and [[Pacific islands]] species, the leaflets are suppressed, and the leaf-stalks ([[Petiole (botany)|petiole]]s) become vertically flattened, and serve the purpose of leaves. These are known as [[phyllode]]s. The vertical orientation of the phyllodes protects them from intense sunlight, as with their edges towards the sky and earth they do not intercept light so fully as horizontally placed leaves. A few species (such as ''[[Acacia glaucoptera]]'') lack leaves or phyllodes altogether, but possess instead [[cladode]]s, modified leaf-like [[photosynthesis|photosynthetic]] stems functioning as leaves.

The small [[flower]]s have five very small petals, almost hidden by the long [[stamens]], and are arranged in dense globular or cylindrical clusters; they are yellow or cream-colored in most species, whitish in some, even purple (''Acacia purpureapetala'') or red (''[[Acacia leprosa]]'' Scarlet Blaze). ''Acacia'' flowers can be distinguished from those of a large related genus, ''[[Albizia]]'', by their stamens which are not joined at the base. Also, unlike individual ''[[Mimosa]]'' flowers, those of ''Acacia'' have more than 10 stamens..<ref>{{cite book|last=Singh|first=Gurcharan|title=Plant Systematics: An Integrated Approach|publisher=Science Publishers|year=2004|pages=445|isbn=1578083516|url=http://books.google.com/books?id=In_Lv8iMt24C}}</ref>

The plants often bear spines, especially those species growing in arid regions. These sometimes represent branches which have become short, hard and pungent, or sometimes leaf-[[stipule]]s. ''[[Acacia armata]]'' is the Kangaroo-thorn of Australia and ''[[Acacia erioloba]]'' is the Camelthorn of Africa.

{{Inc|
Acacia (from word meaning a point or thorn, referring to the stipules often spinescent). Leguminosae, tribe Mimoseae. Trees or shrubs grown out-of-doors in warmer parts of the United States and some of the species as cool greenhouse plants for the showy yellow bloom.

Leaves bipinnate or reduced to phyllodia with vertical edges (i.e., lf.-like petioles): fls. regular, orange-yellow, occasionally lemon-yellow or white, in cylindrical spikes or globular heads, solitary, or in pairs or clusters, or in axillary racemes; sepals and petals 5, 4 or 3, free or united; stamens many, long: pod a legume, opening by two valves (occasionally indehiscent): funicle of the seed filiform or ending in club-shaped aril, either twice encircling the seed or simply bent back upon itself. (The difference between Acacia and Albizzia lies in the stamens, which are free in the former and united at base in the latter.) A very large genus (said to be 450 species) dispersed throughout the tropical parts of the earth and even pushing their way into parts of the temperate zones. The phyllodine series is confined almost entirely to Australia and the Pacific Isls., while the bipinnate series is scattered over the warm parts of the remainder of the globe. The number of species reported from Amer. is large (about 70), of which at least 30 are Mexican. Acacias are said to be natives of the following states: Ariz., Ark., Calif., Fla., Okla., Kan., La.. Mo., Nev., New Mex. and Texas. Those in the following account are Australian, unless otherwise stated. This list will undoubtedly be modified as botanists segregate the other genera from the Mimoseae group. Acacias vary greatly under cult., the variation affecting infl., size and shape of lf., and even the funicle. One should not expect to determine an unfamiliar species without lvs., fls. and fr., with its seeds in place.

Other species interesting because of their ant-inhabited thorns are described under Bull-horn Acacias. Other species referred to Acacia are to be found under Albizzia.

Acacias are quick-growing plants and are short-lived. Various kinds have been known to grow from 11 to 12 feet in four months and 25 feet in six years. These trees are thus in their full maturity at thirty years of age, and shortly afterward begin to deteriorate. While they may thus be used as street trees to secure immediate effects, more permanent trees should also be planted to take their places. The leaves of some species are used in cookery, the flowers of A. Farnesiana for perfumery, the bark of various species for tanning; A. Senegal furnishes most of the gum arabic of commerce; a drug or medicine is made from the wood of A. Catechu; a soap or hair-wash from A. concinna; several are used as forage plants, others for dyes, and still others for fiber. Many of them have scented wood, others make fine furniture wood, and are used for cabinetwork and fence-posts or fuel, still others for street trees (as A. melanoxylon and A. dealbata), and all are more or less ornamental. The Ark of the Covenant, as well as the furniture of the Tabernacle, are said to have been made from timber of A. Seyal, which yields the Shittim wood of the Bible. Also on account of its incorruptible wood, this species for ages was used by the Egyptians to make coffins for the burial of their kings.
{{SCH}}
}}

==Cultivation==
{{Inc|
Acacias out-of-doors will not endure much frost. They seem to thrive very well in localities in which the winter temperature is as low as 20° F., or even 18°, and it is to be hoped that by careful selection strains may be secured that will withstand an even lower temperature. Some species are alkali-resistant as A. cyclops, A. retinodes and perhaps others. After the trees are once well established they do not ordinarily require further irrigation since they have a faculty of seeking water. However, if they are given plenty of water and good soil their growth is very rapid. Weevils sometimes ruin acacia seeds by laying their eggs in the flower-buds and appearing later in the pod. The cottony cushion scale and the black scale are also found to a limited extent, but so far have not proved troublesome.

Cultivation in greenhouses as florists' plants is confined to few species, perhaps not more than a dozen being commercially valuable. All of this most important section thrive in a winter temperature ranging from 40° to 50°; in fact, little above the freezing point is sufficient. They do not like heat, and consequently are not adapted for forcing. If wintered cool and allowed to come along naturally with the increasing heat and light of the spring, they will flower in March and April, a season when their graceful beauty is appreciated in the private conservatory or is valuable to the commercial florist. The prevailing color of all the Australian species is yellow, varying from pale lemon to deep orange. The tall-growing kinds, or rather those inclined to make long, straight shoots, make excellent subjects for planting permanently against a glass partition of a conservatory, or against a pillar. There is scarcely a more beautiful plant than A. pubescens, with its slightly drooping, yellow racemes. It deserves a favored place in every cool conservatory. The acacias are of easy culture. If planted permanently in the border, provision for drainage should be made. A good, coarse, turfy loam, of not too heavy texture, is all they want, with the addition of a fifth part of leaf-mold or well-rotted spent hops. Few of our greenhouse pests trouble them. Water in abundance they like at all times, and in their growing season, which is the early summer months, a daily syringing is necessary. Several of the species of bushy habit are very much grown as pot-plants in Europe, and are now largely imported and sold for the eastern trade. A. armata and A. Drummondii are good species for this purpose. With our hot summers, the commercial man will do better to import than to attempt to grow them from cuttings. The acacias need pruning, or they will soon grow straggling and unshapely; more especially is this true of those grown in pots. After flowering, cut back the leading shoots rather severely. Shift into a larger pot if roots demand it, and encourage growth by a genial heat and syringing, giving at same time abundance of light and air. They should be plunged out-of-doors as soon as danger of frost is past, and removed to the greenhouse before any danger of early fall frosts. Cuttings root surely but not quickly. The best material is the side shoots from a main stem in the condition that florists call half-ripened —that is, not green and succulent as for a verbena, nor as firm and hard as the wood of a hybrid perpetual rose in November. The wood or shoot will be in about the right condition in June. No bottom heat is needed, but the cuttings should be covered with a close frame and kept moderately moist and cool by shading. The following spring these young plants can be either planted out-of-doors, where there is a good chance to keep them well watered, or grown on in pots, as described above. A few of the finest species are A. pubescens, suitable for training on pillars; A. Riceana makes a bush or can be trained; A. longifolia, an erect species, deserves a permanent position in the greenhouse border. Of all the species best adapted for medium-sized, compact pot-plants, A. armata and A. Drummondii are the best. The former has small, simple, dark green leaves and globular, pure yellow flowers. A. Drummondii has drooping, cylindrical, pale lemon flowers. As both these flower in March without any forcing in our northern greenhouses, they are very valuable acquisitions to our Easter plants. The acacia has two distinctive charms: the foliage is either small, simple and glaucous, as in A. armata, or much divided, graceful and fern-like, as in A. pubescent. All the acacias are among the freest-flowering of our hard-wooded plants. {{SCH}}
}}

===Propagation===
Acacia seeds can be difficult to germinate. Research has found that immersing the seeds in various temperatures (usually around 80 °C) and manual seed coat chipping can improve yields to approximately 80 percent.<ref>{{cite journal |author=J Clemens, PG Jones, NH Gilbert|date=|year=1977|month=|title=Effect of seed treatments on germination in Acacia|journal=Australian Journal of Botany |volume=25 |issue=3 |pages=269-267 |pmid=|doi=10.1071/BT9770269|url=http://www.publish.csiro.au/nid/65/paper/BT9770269.htm}}</ref>

{{Inc|
Propagation is by seeds sown either under glass or out in the open ground, or by cuttings from half-ripened wood, taken with a heel. Seeds may be prepared for planting in two ways: First, place them in ashes among the dying embers of a fire and allow them to remain until cool. These do not require immediate sowing, but if they are sown they will not perish if rain does not fall very soon afterwards. Second, pour hot water over seed, let cool and soak from twelve to forty-eight hours. Sow without allowing seeds to become dry. Either method softens the hard seed-coats and hastens germination. They will then usually germinate in about seven days to three or four weeks, depending upon the species and the season in which they are sown. Seed may be sown in the propagating-house at any time throughout the year, though early spring is the natural time. For open ground, sow in March or April. After germination, the plants are pricked off into flats or pots and shifted into larger ones as occasion requires. They are thus kept in pots until they are ready to be transplanted to their permanent quarters, since if placed in the open ground at once the tap-roots will grow with too great rapidity and the tree will either have to be balled or transplanted with the greatest care to prevent its receiving a shock, from which it will take at least a year to recover. When buying seedlings from a nursery, therefore, reject all those whose roots have penetrated the pot. While several species (A. pycnantha, A. melanoxylon, A. decurrens var. dealbata, etc.) have been known to resow themselves in California, there is no danger of their becoming a pest (such as A. armata in Australia), since the seedlings are seldom able to live through the dry season without irrigation. Cuttings should be made from the half-ripened wood, of which the best are from the side shoots of the main stem, taken with a heel. No bottom heat is required, or very little, but they should be covered with a light frame and kept moist and cool by shading. They root slowly but freely and should be potted immediately after rooting, but should not be planted in the open soil until they have developed good roots.
{{SCH}}
}}

===Pests and diseases===
In Australia, ''Acacia'' species are sometimes used as food plants by the [[larva]]e of [[Hepialidae|hepialid]] [[moth]]s of the [[genus]] ''[[Aenetus]]'' including ''A. ligniveren''. These burrow horizontally into the trunk then vertically down. Other [[Lepidoptera]] larvae which have been recorded feeding on ''Acacia'' include [[Brown-tail]], ''[[Endoclita|Endoclita malabaricus]]'' and [[Turnip Moth]]. The leaf-mining larvae of some [[Bucculatricidae|bucculatricid]] [[moth]]s also feed on ''Acacia'': ''[[idae|Bucculatrix agilis]]'' feeds exclusively on ''[[Acacia horrida]]'' and ''[[Bucculatricidae|Bucculatrix flexuosa]]'' feeds exclusively on ''[[Acacia nilotica]]''.

== Species ==
There are over 1,300 species of Acacia. See [[List of Acacia species]] for a complete listing. The genus however is apparently not [[monophyletic]]. This discovery has led to the breaking up of ''Acacia'' into five new genera as discussed in [[list of Acacia species]].

{{#ask: [[genus::Acacia]]
| ?common_name
| ?habit
| ?lifespan
| ?exposure
| ?water
| ?min_temp
}}

==Gallery==
<gallery perrow=5>
File:Acacia dealbata.jpg|''[[Acacia dealbata]]''
Image:Koeh-003.jpg|''Acacia catechu''
Image:Acacia pendula-weeping acacia-IMG 1084 oc.jpg|Acacia pendula (weeping acacia)
Image:Acacia_craspedocarpa-broad-leaved_mulga-IMG_0904_hunt07.jpg|Acacia craspedocarpa (broad-leaved mulga)
Image:Acacia_craspedocarpa-broad-leaved_mulga-IMG_0905_hunt07.jpg|Acacia craspedocarpa (broad-leaved mulga)
Image:Acacia_decurrens-var._moilis-IMG_2929_lokrun.jpg|Acacia decurrens var. moilis
Image:Acacia_decurrens-var._moilis-IMG_2930_lokrun.jpg|Acacia decurrens var. moilis
Image:Acacia_farnesiana-IMG_2911_lokrun.jpg|Acacia farnesiana
Image:Acacia_farnesiana-IMG_2912_lokrun.jpg|Acacia farnesiana
Image:Acacia_glaucoptera-flat_wattle-IMG_0910_hunt07.jpg|Acacia glaucoptera (flat wattle)
Image:Acacia_glaucoptera-flat_wattle-IMG_0911_hunt07.jpg|Acacia glaucoptera (flat wattle)
Image:Acacia_longifolia-IMG_2926_lokrun.jpg|Acacia longifolia
Image:Acacia_longifolia-IMG_2927_lokrun.jpg|Acacia longifolia
File:Acacia_greggii_thorns.jpg|Acacia greggii thorns
</gallery>

==References==




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

__NOTOC__

Hibiscus

2015-08-23T17:59:13Z

Raffi: /* Species */

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Malvaceae
|genus=Hibiscus
|habit=shrub
|Min ht metric=cm
|lifespan=perennial, annual
|exposure=sun
|water=moderate, dry
|features=flowers
|flowers=red, orange, yellow, blue, purple, multicolored, pink, white, single, double, everblooming
|Temp Metric=°F
|sunset_zones=varies by species
|image=A flower close to the ground-4261.jpg
|image_width=240
}}
'''''Hibiscus''''', or '''rosemallow''', is a large genus of about 200-220 species of [[flowering plant]]s native to warm, temperate, subtropical and tropical regions throughout the world. The genus includes both annual and perennial [[herbaceous]] plants, and woody [[shrub]]s and small [[tree]]s. Seven species are commonly grown, one is annual, another is a perennial that is like a shrub, two are shrubs that are decidious and three shrubs that are evergreen. These seven are cultivated primarily for their showy flowers, though one is grown mostly as food and another for its colored foliage.

The [[leaf|leaves]] are alternate, simple, ovate to lanceolate, often with a toothed or lobed margin. The [[flower]]s are large, conspicuous, trumpet-shaped, with five or more [[petal]]s, ranging from white to pink, red, purple or yellow, and from 4-15 cm broad. The [[fruit]] is a dry five-lobed capsule, containing several [[seed]]s in each lobe, which are released when the capsule splits open at maturity.

{{Inc|
Hibiscus (old Latin name). Including Abelmoschus and Paritium. Malvaceae. Rose-mallow. Showy-flowered garden and greenhouse herbs and shrubs; in the tropics some of them are trees.

Hibiscus is a polymorphous genus, allied to Gossypium, Abutilon, Althaea and Malva, the species widely distributed in temperate and tropical countries: herbs or shrubs, or even trees, with leaves palmately veined or parted: parts of the fl. in 5's; calyx gamosepalous, 5-toothed or 5-cleft, subtended by an involucel of narrow bracteoles; corolla usually campanulate, showy, of 5 distinct petals; stamens united into a 5-toothea column; ovary 5-loculed, bearing 5 styles: fr. a dry, more or less dehiscent caps (Fig. 1828).—Between 150 and 200 species, of which perhaps 20 occur in the U. S. Horticultur- ally, there are 4 general groups of Hibiscus—the annuals, the perennial border herbs, the hardy shrubs, and the glasshouse shrubs, to which might Dc added the treelike species of tropical countries that are often planted along roadsides and about dwellings. The perennial herbaceous species are among the boldest subjects for planting in remote borders or in roomy places, particularly in soil that is damp. These plants, of the H. Moscheutos type, are commonly known as marsh-mallows, but this name properly belongs to Altheae officinalis.

In recent years, improved and valuable hardy forms of the native herbaceous rose-mallows have been introduced. They bloom throughout a long season. (Fig. 1829.) The Meehan Mallow Marvels were introduced in 1905, the first successful cross having been made in 1898. They are stated to be hybrids of H. coccineus, H. militaris, and H. moscheutos. They arc in pink, shades of red, and white; the flowers often have an eye of different color. The Giant-flowering marsh-mallows of Bobbink & Atkins, now catalogued as H. moscheutos hybrids, were first offered in 1909 at retail and in 1911 to the trade. They are stated to be hybrids of H. coccineus and H. moscheulos, the first cross being made in 1905, first plant flowered in 1906. The colors range from white to crimson, sometimes with an eye. The culture of such a various group as hibiscus cannot be described in detail. In general, the species present no special difficulties. They are strong and profuse growers, and mostly thrive under a variety of conditions.—The herbaceous perennial species are late summer and fall bloomers, with hollyhock-like flowers. They send up new strong shoots or canes each year. Many of them are perfectly hardy in the North, but even these profit by a mulch covering. Others are tender in the North, and the roots should be taken up after frost and stored in a dry, warm cellar. Keep them just moist enough to maintain life in them. Many times the roots of these herbaceous species are set in large pots in the spring, and they then make excellent specimens. All the species require a deep rich soil and a good unfailing supply of moisture.—The only popular glasshouse species in this country is H. rosa-sinensis, a showy and floriferous summer bloomer, of many varieties.
}}

==Cultivation==
Tropical hibiscus plants need to be kept in warm temperatures, and bloom best in temperatures ranging from 15 to 35 degrees. They like regular water, but may tolerate low levels of water. Ensure good drainage so water does not sit by the roots. Water more in warm weather, and in colder weather, only water the plant if it looks dry. Hibiscus thrive with plant food. If you are potting your flower, make sure the pot excellent drainage. Spraying plants and under leaves with strong jets of water helps protect against aphid and whitefly infestations. Care for individual species can vary a great deal, so see species listed below for additional information.

===Propagation===
Mainly by rooting cuttings or seed.

===Pests and diseases===
Whitefly, aphids, scales, etc. ''Hibiscus'' species are used as food plants by the [[larva]]e of some [[Lepidoptera]] species including ''[[Chionodes|Chionodes hibiscella]]'', ''[[Hypercompe|Hypercompe hambletoni]]'', the [[Nutmeg (moth)|Nutmeg moth]], and the [[Turnip Moth]].

==Species==
In temperate zones, probably the most commonly grown [[ornamental plant|ornamental]] species is ''[[Hibiscus syriacus]]'', the common garden Hibiscus, also known in some areas as the "Rose of Althea" or "Rose of Sharon" (but not to be confused with the unrelated ''[[Hypericum calycinum]]'', also called "Rose of Sharon"). In tropical and subtropical areas, the [[Chinese hibiscus]] (''H. rosa-sinensis''), with its many showy hybrids, is the most popular hibiscus.

{{#ask: [[genus::Hibiscus]]
| ?common_name
| ?habit
| ?lifespan
| ?exposure
| ?water
| ?min_temp
}}

About 200-220 species are known, including the following ('''the top 7 species grown are in bold'''):
{{col-begin}}
{{col-2}}
*'''''[[Hibiscus acetosella]]''''' - Red-leaf hibiscus
*''[[Hibiscus arnottianus]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|Koki'o 'ula]]
*''[[Hibiscus brackenridgei]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|Ma'o hau hele]]
*''[[Hibiscus calyphyllus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus cameronii]]''
*''[[Hibiscus cannabinus]]'' - [[Kenaf]]
*''[[Hibiscus cisplatinus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus clayi]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus]] (red)
*''[[Hibiscus coccineus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus dasycalyx]]'' - Neches River rose-mallow
*''[[Hibiscus denudatus]]'' - [[Pale face]]
*''[[Hibiscus diversifolius]]''
*''[[Hibiscus elatus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus fragilis]]'' - [[Mandrinette]]
*''[[Hibiscus furcellatus]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|'Akiohala]]
*''[[Hibiscus fuscus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus grandiflorus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus coccineus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus hamabo]]''
*''[[Hibiscus hastatus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus heterophyllus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus indicus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus insularis]]'' - Phillip Island Hibiscus
{{col-2}}
[[Image:Hawaiian Flower.JPG|right|thumb|A white ''[[Hibiscus arnottianus]]'' in Hawaii.]]
[[Image:Hibiscus India Kerala1.jpg|right|thumb|A red Hibiscus of [[Kerala]] (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis).]]
*''[[Hibiscus laevis]]'' - [[Halberd-leaved rosemallow]]
*''[[Hibiscus lasiocarpos]]''
*''[[Hibiscus lavaterioides]]''
*''[[Hibiscus ludwigii]]''
*''[[Hibiscus macrophyllus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus militaris]]'' - Syn. of ''Hibiscus laevis''
*'''''[[Hibiscus moscheutos]]''''' - [[Hibiscus moscheutos|Swamp Rose-mallow]] or Perennial Hibiscus
*'''''[[Hibiscus mutabilis]]''''' - [[Cotton rosemallow]], Confederate rose
*''[[Hibiscus paramutabilis]]''
*''[[Hibiscus pedunculatus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus platanifolius]]''
*''[[Hibiscus radiatus]]''
*'''''[[Hibiscus rosa-sinensis]]''''' - [[Chinese hibiscus]], Tropical hibiscus
*'''''[[Hibiscus sabdariffa]]''''' - [[Roselle]] or Omutete or Jamaica Sorrel or Jamaica flower
*'''''[[Hibiscus schizopetalus]]''''' - [[Japanese lantern hibiscus]]
*''[[Hibiscus scottii]]''
*''[[Hibiscus sinosyriacus]]''
*'''''[[Hibiscus syriacus]]''''' - [[Hibiscus syriacus|Rose of Sharon]] or Shrub Althaea
*''[[Hibiscus tiliaceus]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|Hau]]
*''[[Hibiscus trionum]]'' - [[Flower-of-an-Hour]]
*''[[Hibiscus waimeae]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|Koki'o ke'oke'o]]
{{col-end}}

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Image:Peach Double Hibiscus -7129.jpg
Image:Hibiscus purple cream-2036.jpg
Image:White hibiscus-2012.jpg
Image:Yellow pink hibiscus-5649.jpg
Image:Giant Hibiscus-884.jpg
Image:Survival in the shadow of the wood-4458.jpg
Image:Yellow pinkeye-208.jpg
Image:A flower close to the ground-4261.jpg
Image:Hibiscus-stages.jpg|At left, a flower emerges from a bud. At right, the same flower less than 18 hours later.
Image:Hibiscus1.jpg|A hibiscus, showing [[pistil]] and [[stamen]]s
Image:DSC02081.JPG|Pink hibiscus
</gallery>

==External links==
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hibiscus Wikipedia: Uses, history]

__NOTOC__

Hibiscus

2015-08-23T17:56:57Z

Raffi: /* Species */

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Malvaceae
|genus=Hibiscus
|habit=shrub
|Min ht metric=cm
|lifespan=perennial, annual
|exposure=sun
|water=moderate, dry
|features=flowers
|flowers=red, orange, yellow, blue, purple, multicolored, pink, white, single, double, everblooming
|Temp Metric=°F
|sunset_zones=varies by species
|image=A flower close to the ground-4261.jpg
|image_width=240
}}
'''''Hibiscus''''', or '''rosemallow''', is a large genus of about 200-220 species of [[flowering plant]]s native to warm, temperate, subtropical and tropical regions throughout the world. The genus includes both annual and perennial [[herbaceous]] plants, and woody [[shrub]]s and small [[tree]]s. Seven species are commonly grown, one is annual, another is a perennial that is like a shrub, two are shrubs that are decidious and three shrubs that are evergreen. These seven are cultivated primarily for their showy flowers, though one is grown mostly as food and another for its colored foliage.

The [[leaf|leaves]] are alternate, simple, ovate to lanceolate, often with a toothed or lobed margin. The [[flower]]s are large, conspicuous, trumpet-shaped, with five or more [[petal]]s, ranging from white to pink, red, purple or yellow, and from 4-15 cm broad. The [[fruit]] is a dry five-lobed capsule, containing several [[seed]]s in each lobe, which are released when the capsule splits open at maturity.

{{Inc|
Hibiscus (old Latin name). Including Abelmoschus and Paritium. Malvaceae. Rose-mallow. Showy-flowered garden and greenhouse herbs and shrubs; in the tropics some of them are trees.

Hibiscus is a polymorphous genus, allied to Gossypium, Abutilon, Althaea and Malva, the species widely distributed in temperate and tropical countries: herbs or shrubs, or even trees, with leaves palmately veined or parted: parts of the fl. in 5's; calyx gamosepalous, 5-toothed or 5-cleft, subtended by an involucel of narrow bracteoles; corolla usually campanulate, showy, of 5 distinct petals; stamens united into a 5-toothea column; ovary 5-loculed, bearing 5 styles: fr. a dry, more or less dehiscent caps (Fig. 1828).—Between 150 and 200 species, of which perhaps 20 occur in the U. S. Horticultur- ally, there are 4 general groups of Hibiscus—the annuals, the perennial border herbs, the hardy shrubs, and the glasshouse shrubs, to which might Dc added the treelike species of tropical countries that are often planted along roadsides and about dwellings. The perennial herbaceous species are among the boldest subjects for planting in remote borders or in roomy places, particularly in soil that is damp. These plants, of the H. Moscheutos type, are commonly known as marsh-mallows, but this name properly belongs to Altheae officinalis.

In recent years, improved and valuable hardy forms of the native herbaceous rose-mallows have been introduced. They bloom throughout a long season. (Fig. 1829.) The Meehan Mallow Marvels were introduced in 1905, the first successful cross having been made in 1898. They are stated to be hybrids of H. coccineus, H. militaris, and H. moscheutos. They arc in pink, shades of red, and white; the flowers often have an eye of different color. The Giant-flowering marsh-mallows of Bobbink & Atkins, now catalogued as H. moscheutos hybrids, were first offered in 1909 at retail and in 1911 to the trade. They are stated to be hybrids of H. coccineus and H. moscheulos, the first cross being made in 1905, first plant flowered in 1906. The colors range from white to crimson, sometimes with an eye. The culture of such a various group as hibiscus cannot be described in detail. In general, the species present no special difficulties. They are strong and profuse growers, and mostly thrive under a variety of conditions.—The herbaceous perennial species are late summer and fall bloomers, with hollyhock-like flowers. They send up new strong shoots or canes each year. Many of them are perfectly hardy in the North, but even these profit by a mulch covering. Others are tender in the North, and the roots should be taken up after frost and stored in a dry, warm cellar. Keep them just moist enough to maintain life in them. Many times the roots of these herbaceous species are set in large pots in the spring, and they then make excellent specimens. All the species require a deep rich soil and a good unfailing supply of moisture.—The only popular glasshouse species in this country is H. rosa-sinensis, a showy and floriferous summer bloomer, of many varieties.
}}

==Cultivation==
Tropical hibiscus plants need to be kept in warm temperatures, and bloom best in temperatures ranging from 15 to 35 degrees. They like regular water, but may tolerate low levels of water. Ensure good drainage so water does not sit by the roots. Water more in warm weather, and in colder weather, only water the plant if it looks dry. Hibiscus thrive with plant food. If you are potting your flower, make sure the pot excellent drainage. Spraying plants and under leaves with strong jets of water helps protect against aphid and whitefly infestations. Care for individual species can vary a great deal, so see species listed below for additional information.

===Propagation===
Mainly by rooting cuttings or seed.

===Pests and diseases===
Whitefly, aphids, scales, etc. ''Hibiscus'' species are used as food plants by the [[larva]]e of some [[Lepidoptera]] species including ''[[Chionodes|Chionodes hibiscella]]'', ''[[Hypercompe|Hypercompe hambletoni]]'', the [[Nutmeg (moth)|Nutmeg moth]], and the [[Turnip Moth]].

==Species==
In temperate zones, probably the most commonly grown [[ornamental plant|ornamental]] species is ''[[Hibiscus syriacus]]'', the common garden Hibiscus, also known in some areas as the "Rose of Althea" or "Rose of Sharon" (but not to be confused with the unrelated ''[[Hypericum calycinum]]'', also called "Rose of Sharon"). In tropical and subtropical areas, the [[Chinese hibiscus]] (''H. rosa-sinensis''), with its many showy hybrids, is the most popular hibiscus.

{{#ask: [[Genus::Hibiscus]]
| ?common_name
| ?lifespan
| ?exposure
| ?water
| ?min_temp
}}

About 200-220 species are known, including the following ('''the top 7 species grown are in bold'''):
{{col-begin}}
{{col-2}}
*'''''[[Hibiscus acetosella]]''''' - Red-leaf hibiscus
*''[[Hibiscus arnottianus]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|Koki'o 'ula]]
*''[[Hibiscus brackenridgei]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|Ma'o hau hele]]
*''[[Hibiscus calyphyllus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus cameronii]]''
*''[[Hibiscus cannabinus]]'' - [[Kenaf]]
*''[[Hibiscus cisplatinus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus clayi]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus]] (red)
*''[[Hibiscus coccineus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus dasycalyx]]'' - Neches River rose-mallow
*''[[Hibiscus denudatus]]'' - [[Pale face]]
*''[[Hibiscus diversifolius]]''
*''[[Hibiscus elatus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus fragilis]]'' - [[Mandrinette]]
*''[[Hibiscus furcellatus]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|'Akiohala]]
*''[[Hibiscus fuscus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus grandiflorus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus coccineus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus hamabo]]''
*''[[Hibiscus hastatus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus heterophyllus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus indicus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus insularis]]'' - Phillip Island Hibiscus
{{col-2}}
[[Image:Hawaiian Flower.JPG|right|thumb|A white ''[[Hibiscus arnottianus]]'' in Hawaii.]]
[[Image:Hibiscus India Kerala1.jpg|right|thumb|A red Hibiscus of [[Kerala]] (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis).]]
*''[[Hibiscus laevis]]'' - [[Halberd-leaved rosemallow]]
*''[[Hibiscus lasiocarpos]]''
*''[[Hibiscus lavaterioides]]''
*''[[Hibiscus ludwigii]]''
*''[[Hibiscus macrophyllus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus militaris]]'' - Syn. of ''Hibiscus laevis''
*'''''[[Hibiscus moscheutos]]''''' - [[Hibiscus moscheutos|Swamp Rose-mallow]] or Perennial Hibiscus
*'''''[[Hibiscus mutabilis]]''''' - [[Cotton rosemallow]], Confederate rose
*''[[Hibiscus paramutabilis]]''
*''[[Hibiscus pedunculatus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus platanifolius]]''
*''[[Hibiscus radiatus]]''
*'''''[[Hibiscus rosa-sinensis]]''''' - [[Chinese hibiscus]], Tropical hibiscus
*'''''[[Hibiscus sabdariffa]]''''' - [[Roselle]] or Omutete or Jamaica Sorrel or Jamaica flower
*'''''[[Hibiscus schizopetalus]]''''' - [[Japanese lantern hibiscus]]
*''[[Hibiscus scottii]]''
*''[[Hibiscus sinosyriacus]]''
*'''''[[Hibiscus syriacus]]''''' - [[Hibiscus syriacus|Rose of Sharon]] or Shrub Althaea
*''[[Hibiscus tiliaceus]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|Hau]]
*''[[Hibiscus trionum]]'' - [[Flower-of-an-Hour]]
*''[[Hibiscus waimeae]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|Koki'o ke'oke'o]]
{{col-end}}

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Image:Peach Double Hibiscus -7129.jpg
Image:Hibiscus purple cream-2036.jpg
Image:White hibiscus-2012.jpg
Image:Yellow pink hibiscus-5649.jpg
Image:Giant Hibiscus-884.jpg
Image:Survival in the shadow of the wood-4458.jpg
Image:Yellow pinkeye-208.jpg
Image:A flower close to the ground-4261.jpg
Image:Hibiscus-stages.jpg|At left, a flower emerges from a bud. At right, the same flower less than 18 hours later.
Image:Hibiscus1.jpg|A hibiscus, showing [[pistil]] and [[stamen]]s
Image:DSC02081.JPG|Pink hibiscus
</gallery>

==External links==
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hibiscus Wikipedia: Uses, history]

__NOTOC__

Hibiscus

2015-08-23T17:39:45Z

Raffi: /* Species */

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Malvaceae
|genus=Hibiscus
|habit=shrub
|Min ht metric=cm
|lifespan=perennial, annual
|exposure=sun
|water=moderate, dry
|features=flowers
|flowers=red, orange, yellow, blue, purple, multicolored, pink, white, single, double, everblooming
|Temp Metric=°F
|sunset_zones=varies by species
|image=A flower close to the ground-4261.jpg
|image_width=240
}}
'''''Hibiscus''''', or '''rosemallow''', is a large genus of about 200-220 species of [[flowering plant]]s native to warm, temperate, subtropical and tropical regions throughout the world. The genus includes both annual and perennial [[herbaceous]] plants, and woody [[shrub]]s and small [[tree]]s. Seven species are commonly grown, one is annual, another is a perennial that is like a shrub, two are shrubs that are decidious and three shrubs that are evergreen. These seven are cultivated primarily for their showy flowers, though one is grown mostly as food and another for its colored foliage.

The [[leaf|leaves]] are alternate, simple, ovate to lanceolate, often with a toothed or lobed margin. The [[flower]]s are large, conspicuous, trumpet-shaped, with five or more [[petal]]s, ranging from white to pink, red, purple or yellow, and from 4-15 cm broad. The [[fruit]] is a dry five-lobed capsule, containing several [[seed]]s in each lobe, which are released when the capsule splits open at maturity.

{{Inc|
Hibiscus (old Latin name). Including Abelmoschus and Paritium. Malvaceae. Rose-mallow. Showy-flowered garden and greenhouse herbs and shrubs; in the tropics some of them are trees.

Hibiscus is a polymorphous genus, allied to Gossypium, Abutilon, Althaea and Malva, the species widely distributed in temperate and tropical countries: herbs or shrubs, or even trees, with leaves palmately veined or parted: parts of the fl. in 5's; calyx gamosepalous, 5-toothed or 5-cleft, subtended by an involucel of narrow bracteoles; corolla usually campanulate, showy, of 5 distinct petals; stamens united into a 5-toothea column; ovary 5-loculed, bearing 5 styles: fr. a dry, more or less dehiscent caps (Fig. 1828).—Between 150 and 200 species, of which perhaps 20 occur in the U. S. Horticultur- ally, there are 4 general groups of Hibiscus—the annuals, the perennial border herbs, the hardy shrubs, and the glasshouse shrubs, to which might Dc added the treelike species of tropical countries that are often planted along roadsides and about dwellings. The perennial herbaceous species are among the boldest subjects for planting in remote borders or in roomy places, particularly in soil that is damp. These plants, of the H. Moscheutos type, are commonly known as marsh-mallows, but this name properly belongs to Altheae officinalis.

In recent years, improved and valuable hardy forms of the native herbaceous rose-mallows have been introduced. They bloom throughout a long season. (Fig. 1829.) The Meehan Mallow Marvels were introduced in 1905, the first successful cross having been made in 1898. They are stated to be hybrids of H. coccineus, H. militaris, and H. moscheutos. They arc in pink, shades of red, and white; the flowers often have an eye of different color. The Giant-flowering marsh-mallows of Bobbink & Atkins, now catalogued as H. moscheutos hybrids, were first offered in 1909 at retail and in 1911 to the trade. They are stated to be hybrids of H. coccineus and H. moscheulos, the first cross being made in 1905, first plant flowered in 1906. The colors range from white to crimson, sometimes with an eye. The culture of such a various group as hibiscus cannot be described in detail. In general, the species present no special difficulties. They are strong and profuse growers, and mostly thrive under a variety of conditions.—The herbaceous perennial species are late summer and fall bloomers, with hollyhock-like flowers. They send up new strong shoots or canes each year. Many of them are perfectly hardy in the North, but even these profit by a mulch covering. Others are tender in the North, and the roots should be taken up after frost and stored in a dry, warm cellar. Keep them just moist enough to maintain life in them. Many times the roots of these herbaceous species are set in large pots in the spring, and they then make excellent specimens. All the species require a deep rich soil and a good unfailing supply of moisture.—The only popular glasshouse species in this country is H. rosa-sinensis, a showy and floriferous summer bloomer, of many varieties.
}}

==Cultivation==
Tropical hibiscus plants need to be kept in warm temperatures, and bloom best in temperatures ranging from 15 to 35 degrees. They like regular water, but may tolerate low levels of water. Ensure good drainage so water does not sit by the roots. Water more in warm weather, and in colder weather, only water the plant if it looks dry. Hibiscus thrive with plant food. If you are potting your flower, make sure the pot excellent drainage. Spraying plants and under leaves with strong jets of water helps protect against aphid and whitefly infestations. Care for individual species can vary a great deal, so see species listed below for additional information.

===Propagation===
Mainly by rooting cuttings or seed.

===Pests and diseases===
Whitefly, aphids, scales, etc. ''Hibiscus'' species are used as food plants by the [[larva]]e of some [[Lepidoptera]] species including ''[[Chionodes|Chionodes hibiscella]]'', ''[[Hypercompe|Hypercompe hambletoni]]'', the [[Nutmeg (moth)|Nutmeg moth]], and the [[Turnip Moth]].

==Species==
In temperate zones, probably the most commonly grown [[ornamental plant|ornamental]] species is ''[[Hibiscus syriacus]]'', the common garden Hibiscus, also known in some areas as the "Rose of Althea" or "Rose of Sharon" (but not to be confused with the unrelated ''[[Hypericum calycinum]]'', also called "Rose of Sharon"). In tropical and subtropical areas, the [[Chinese hibiscus]] (''H. rosa-sinensis''), with its many showy hybrids, is the most popular hibiscus.

{{#ask: [[Genus::Hibiscus]]
| ?lifespan
| ?exposure
| ?water
| ?min_temp
}}

About 200-220 species are known, including the following ('''the top 7 species grown are in bold'''):
{{col-begin}}
{{col-2}}
*'''''[[Hibiscus acetosella]]''''' - Red-leaf hibiscus
*''[[Hibiscus arnottianus]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|Koki'o 'ula]]
*''[[Hibiscus brackenridgei]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|Ma'o hau hele]]
*''[[Hibiscus calyphyllus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus cameronii]]''
*''[[Hibiscus cannabinus]]'' - [[Kenaf]]
*''[[Hibiscus cisplatinus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus clayi]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus]] (red)
*''[[Hibiscus coccineus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus dasycalyx]]'' - Neches River rose-mallow
*''[[Hibiscus denudatus]]'' - [[Pale face]]
*''[[Hibiscus diversifolius]]''
*''[[Hibiscus elatus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus fragilis]]'' - [[Mandrinette]]
*''[[Hibiscus furcellatus]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|'Akiohala]]
*''[[Hibiscus fuscus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus grandiflorus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus coccineus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus hamabo]]''
*''[[Hibiscus hastatus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus heterophyllus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus indicus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus insularis]]'' - Phillip Island Hibiscus
{{col-2}}
[[Image:Hawaiian Flower.JPG|right|thumb|A white ''[[Hibiscus arnottianus]]'' in Hawaii.]]
[[Image:Hibiscus India Kerala1.jpg|right|thumb|A red Hibiscus of [[Kerala]] (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis).]]
*''[[Hibiscus laevis]]'' - [[Halberd-leaved rosemallow]]
*''[[Hibiscus lasiocarpos]]''
*''[[Hibiscus lavaterioides]]''
*''[[Hibiscus ludwigii]]''
*''[[Hibiscus macrophyllus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus militaris]]'' - Syn. of ''Hibiscus laevis''
*'''''[[Hibiscus moscheutos]]''''' - [[Hibiscus moscheutos|Swamp Rose-mallow]] or Perennial Hibiscus
*'''''[[Hibiscus mutabilis]]''''' - [[Cotton rosemallow]], Confederate rose
*''[[Hibiscus paramutabilis]]''
*''[[Hibiscus pedunculatus]]''
*''[[Hibiscus platanifolius]]''
*''[[Hibiscus radiatus]]''
*'''''[[Hibiscus rosa-sinensis]]''''' - [[Chinese hibiscus]], Tropical hibiscus
*'''''[[Hibiscus sabdariffa]]''''' - [[Roselle]] or Omutete or Jamaica Sorrel or Jamaica flower
*'''''[[Hibiscus schizopetalus]]''''' - [[Japanese lantern hibiscus]]
*''[[Hibiscus scottii]]''
*''[[Hibiscus sinosyriacus]]''
*'''''[[Hibiscus syriacus]]''''' - [[Hibiscus syriacus|Rose of Sharon]] or Shrub Althaea
*''[[Hibiscus tiliaceus]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|Hau]]
*''[[Hibiscus trionum]]'' - [[Flower-of-an-Hour]]
*''[[Hibiscus waimeae]]'' - [[Hawaiian hibiscus|Koki'o ke'oke'o]]
{{col-end}}

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Image:Peach Double Hibiscus -7129.jpg
Image:Hibiscus purple cream-2036.jpg
Image:White hibiscus-2012.jpg
Image:Yellow pink hibiscus-5649.jpg
Image:Giant Hibiscus-884.jpg
Image:Survival in the shadow of the wood-4458.jpg
Image:Yellow pinkeye-208.jpg
Image:A flower close to the ground-4261.jpg
Image:Hibiscus-stages.jpg|At left, a flower emerges from a bud. At right, the same flower less than 18 hours later.
Image:Hibiscus1.jpg|A hibiscus, showing [[pistil]] and [[stamen]]s
Image:DSC02081.JPG|Pink hibiscus
</gallery>

==External links==
*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hibiscus Wikipedia: Uses, history]

__NOTOC__

Dombeya wallichii

2014-03-19T01:57:44Z

Raffi: /* Propagation */

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Malvaceae
|genus=Dombeya
|species=wallichii
|common_name=Pink Ball Tree
|habit=tree
|Min ht box=4
|Min ht metric=m
|Max ht box=8
|Max ht metric=m
|origin=E Africa, Madagascar
|lifespan=perennial
|exposure=sun, part-sun
|water=moist, moderate
|features=flowers, fragrance, foliage
|flower_season=early winter, mid winter, late winter
|Min Temp Num=5
|Temp Metric=°C
|min_zone=10
|max_zone=12
|image=Dombeya wallichii-IMG 6332 sd.jpg
|image_width=240
|image_caption=Dombeya wallichii
}}
''Dombeya wallichii'', Benth. & Hook. (Astrapaea Wallichii, Lindl.) is a fast growing shrub or small tree with a very showy bloom that can be grown as a large shrub as well. As a tree it can grow to 8 m in height but can be kept smaller by trimming. The velvety leaves are evergreen, 16-20 cm long and 15-25 cm broad, with a 7-17 cm petiole. It looses its leaves in the winter only if the temperature falls below freezing. The pink flowers are fragrant and come at the beginning of the year, lasting for over 1 month. The flowers are about 3 cm across and can have bracts up to 6 cm long and 5 cm broad. They have drooping umbels, with the peduncles long and hairy{{SCH}}.

==Cultivation==
Dombeya wallichii is very low maintenance. It is a vigorous grower but needs protection from heavy frost and temperatures below freezing. After a light frost the leaves take on a bronze color. The plant grows best in sun with regular weekly or bi-weekly water in summer once it is established, though it is reported to be somewhat drought tolerant. It is not salt tolerant and may need occasional deep watering to flush away the built-up salts in years when winter rainfall is below normal. Fertilize plants shortly after transplanting with a water soluble product according to the label directions. Once established, the plants are very easy to grow and do not need a regular fertilization, though they may appreciate it.

It is a strong grower and even though it is possible to grow it in a container for many years, it will perform better in the ground.

Old flowers remain a long time, and should be removed to keep a neat appearance. Trimming should be done after the flowers are gone in the spring until mid September. It can be trimmed as far back as necessary without harming the tree.

===Propagation===
Pull down on 10 inch new shoots growing off of the trunk of the plant, tearing them off with a bit of the trunk. Cut off all but the top couple of leaves. Place in a glass full with about 6 inches of water, in a warm but not hot spot, with bright light but no direct sunlight. Keep the water level topped off to 6 inches as it evaporates. Many of the shoots will form white 'crystals' then roots will come out of those, at which point it should be planted in a potting mix that retains some moisture but drains very well and does not stay wet, still out of the sun. After a couple of larger leaves grow, the new plants can be hardened and planted.

===Pests and diseases===
These plants occasionally get [[aphids]] that may need to be controlled, but it is overall disease free.

==Varieties==
Dombeya wallichii and a hybrid of D. wallichii crossed with D. burgessiae that is called [[Dombeya x cayeuxii]] are often confused as D. wallichii. The two are very similar but differin that D. x cayeuxii has three lobed leaves

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Image:Dombeya wallichii-IMG 6330 sd.jpg|
Image:Dombeya wallichii-IMG 6331 sd.jpg|
Image:Dombeya wallichii-IMG 6333 sd.jpg|
</gallery>

==External links==

__NOTOC__

Template:SPlantbox

2013-07-24T05:15:16Z

Raffi:

<noinclude>
This is the 'SPlantbox' template.

Edit the page to see the template text.
</noinclude><includeonly>
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</includeonly>

List of shade plants

2013-03-15T05:39:53Z

Raffi: /* Ground covers */

These plants are good for varying levels of shade. Click on the plant '''name''' (''not photo'') for more details on whether they like part-shade, deep-shade or both.

==Annuals, Perennials, Bulbs==
<gallery>
Image:2007-06-26Acanthus07.jpg|[[Acanthus mollis]] Bear's breech
Image:Aconitum variegatum 110807f.jpg|[[Aconitum]] Monkshood
Image:Ajuga genevensis 150505.jpg|[[Ajuga]] Carpet bugle
Image:Alchemilla055.jpg|[[Alchemilla]] Lady's-mantle
Image:Field-of-various-color-kalanit02.jpg|[[Anemone]] Windflower
Image:Pink anthurium.jpg|[[Anthurium]] Flamingo flower
Image:Yellow columbine close.jpg|[[Aquilegia]] Columbine
Image:Arisaema triphyllum.jpg|[[Arisaema]] 
Image:Arum maculatum 700.jpg|[[Arum]] 
Image:Aruncus dioicus 15105.JPG|[[Aruncus]] Goat's beard
Image:Asarum caudatum 2.jpg|[[Asarum]] Wild ginger
Image:Aspidistra elatior1.jpg|[[Aspidistra elatior]] Cast-Iron plant
Image:Astilbe arendsii1.jpg|[[Astilbe]] False spiraea
Image:Astrantia.jpg|[[Astrantia]] Masterwort
Image:Begonia-IMG 0089sm.jpg|[[Begonia]] 
Image:Bergenia stracheyi0.jpg|[[Bergenia]] 
Image:Bromeliad spike.jpg|[[Billbergia]] 
Image:Bletilla striata 1.jpg|[[Bletilla striata]] Chinese ground orchid
Image:Browallia americana Flower Stalk 1800px.jpg|[[Browallia]] Amethyst flower
Image:Brunnera macrophylla.jpg|[[Brunnera macrophylla]] Brunnera
Image:Brandywine1.jpg|[[Caladium bicolor]] Fancy-leafed caladium
Image:CalceolariaHerbeohybrida4.jpg|[[Calceolaria herbeohybrida]] 
Image:Campanula cespitosa.jpg|[[Campanula]] (some) Bellflower
Image:Carex halleriana.jpg|[[Carex]] Sedge
Image:Cimicifuga heracleifolia (aka).jpg|[[Cimicifuga]] 
Image:Clivia miniata1.jpg|[[Clivia miniata]] Kaffir lily
Image:Coleus varities.png|[[Coleus hybridus]] Coleus
Image:Songe-Réunion.JPG|[[Colocasia esculenta]] Elephant's ear
Image:Convallaria-oliv-r2.jpg|[[Convallaria majalis]] Lily-of-the-valley
Image:Corydalis ochroleuca0.jpg|[[Corydalis]] 
Image:Crassula capitella 2.jpg|[[Crassula]] 
Image:Wild cyclamens.jpg|[[Cyclamen]] 
Image:Cymbidium05.jpg|[[Cymbidium]] 
Image:Delphinium cv3.jpg|[[Delphinium]] 
Image:Dicentra-spectabilis.jpg|[[Dicentra]] (most) Bleeding heart
Image:Digitalis purpurea 01.jpg|[[Digitalis]] Foxglove
Image:Doronicum orientale.JPG|[[Doronicum]] Leopard's bane
Image:Duchesnea_indica9.jpg|[[Potentilla indica]] Indian mock strawberry
Image:2401_Bluebells.jpg|[[Hyacinthoides]] Bluebells
Image:Epimedium grandiflorum leaf.jpg|[[Epimedium]] 
Image:Erythronium oregonum 01193.JPG|[[Erythronium]] 
Image:Fern02.jpg|[[Ferns]] 
Image:Filipendula-ulmaria.JPG|[[Filipendula]] 
Image:Galax-flickr-angelslens.jpg|[[Galax urceolata]] 
Image:Waldmeister.jpg|[[Galium odoratum]] Sweet woodruff
Image:Gentiana andrewsii-Jacki-Dee.jpg|[[Gentiana]] Gentian
Image:Pelargonium flower.JPG|[[Geranium]] (some) Cranesbill
Image:Gillenia trifoliata0.jpg|[[Gillenia trifoliata]] 
Image:Hakonechloa macra Aureola-flickr.jpg|[[Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola']] Japanese forest grass
Image:Heliconia pendula1.jpg|[[Heliconia]] 
Image:Helleborus niger .JPG|[[Helleborus]] Hellebore
Image:Hepatica nobilis plant.JPG|[[Hepatica]] Liverleaf
Image:San Gabriel Mountains coralbells.jpg|[[Heuchera]] Coral bells
Image:Upload.png|[[Heucherella tiarelloides]] 
Image:Hosta.jpg|[[Hosta]] Plantain lily
Image:Impatiens walleriana.JPG|[[Impatiens]] (most) 
Image:Inule helenium.jpg|[[Inula helenium]] Elecampane
Image:Iris foetidissima PaR.JPG|[[Iris foetidissima]] Gladwin iris
Image:Iris cristata.jpg|[[Crested Iris]] 
Image:Kirengeshoma-palmata-flowers.JPG|[[Kirengeshoma palmata‎]] 
Image:Lamium maculatum cm01.jpg|[[Lamium maculatum]] Dead nettle
Image:Ligularia sibirica-Ligulaire de Sibérie.JPG|[[Ligularia]] 
Image:2000px lillium michiganese.jpg|[[Lilium]] Lily
Image:LyriopeSpicata wb.jpg|[[Liriope]] Lily turf
Image:Lobelia (aka).jpg|[[Lobelia]] (most) 
Image:Yellow pimpernel.jpg|[[Lysimachia]] 
Image:Blue Poppy Meconopsis sp Pair 1000px.jpg|[[Meconopsis]] 
Image:Mertensia virginica Nashville.jpg|[[Mertensia virginica]] Virginia bluebells
Image:Upload.png|[[Milium effusum 'Aureum']] Bowles' golden grass
Image:Mimulus lewisii p1080904.jpg|[[Mimulus]] hybrids Monkey flower
Image:Wald Vergissmeinnicht.jpg|[[Myosotis]] Forget-me-not
Image:Nicotiana alata1By Carl E Lewis.jpg|[[Nicotiana alata]] 
Image:Ophiopogon-planiscapus-Nigr.jpg|[[Ophiopogon]] 
Image:Oxalis corymbosa 2.jpg|[[Oxalis]] 
Image:Podophyllum peltatum.jpg|[[Podophyllum]] 
Image:Polemonium carneum0.jpg|[[Polemonium]] 
Image:Solomon's Seal.jpg|[[Polygonatum]] Solomon's seal
Image:Prolećno cveće 3.JPG|[[Primula]] Primrose
Image:Self-heal-Lachlan-Cranswick.jpg|[[Prunella]] Self-heal
Image:Pulmonaria officinalis 800.jpg|[[Pulmonaria]] Lungwort
Image:x|[[Rehmannia elata]] 
Image:Rodgersia pinnata var. 'Superba'.jpg|[[Rodgersia]] 
Image:Saxifraga rotundifolia a1.jpg|[[Saxifraga]] Saxifrage
Image:Schizanthus pinnatus.jpg|[[Schizanthus pinnatus]] Poor man's orchid
Image:Golden Ragwort Senecio aureus Plant 3264px.JPG|[[Senecio hybridus]] Cineraria
Image:Sisyrinchium montanum1.jpg|[[Sisyrinchium]] 
Image:Jk-Maianthemum racemosum.jpg|[[Smilacina racemosa]] False Solomon's seal
Image:Soleirolia soleirolii001.JPG|[[Soleirolia soleirolii]] Baby's tears
Image:Indianpink.jpg|[[Spigelia marilandica]] Pinkroot, Indian pink
Image:Thalictrum flavum0.jpg|[[Thalictrum]] Meadow rue
Image:Foamflower Tiarella 'Cygnet' Leaves 2054px.jpg|[[Tiarella]] Foamflower
Image:Tolmiea menziesii.JPG|[[Tolmiea menziesii]] Piggy-back plant
Image:Torenia fournieri2.jpg|[[Torenia fournieri]] Wishbone flower
Image:Zebrina1.jpg|[[Tradescantia]] 
Image:Tricyrtis hirta - blossom top (aka).jpg|[[Tricyrtis]] Toad lily
Image:TrilliumErectum.jpg|[[Trillium]] Wake Robin
Image:Globeflower Trollius laxus Flower 2400px.jpg|[[Trollius]] Globeflower
Image:Viola x hybrida 'Clear Crystals Apricot', SC, Vic., 15.9.2007.jpg|[[Viola]] Viola, Pansy
</gallery>

==Ground covers==
<gallery>
Image:Actinidia kolomikta.jpg|[[Actinidia kolomikta]] 
Image:Aegopodium podagraria.jpg|[[Aegopodium podagraria]] Bishop's weed
Image:Akebia quinata02.jpg|[[Akebia quinata]] 
Image:PorcelainBerry.JPG|[[Ampelopsis brevipedunculata]] Porcelain berry
Image:Starr 071024-9714 Cissus nodosa.jpg|[[Cissus]] 
Image:Clematis2.jpg|[[Clematis]] (some) 
Image:CanadianDogwoodGrowingTrailSide.jpg|[[Cornus canadensis]] Bunchberry
Image:Cymbalaria-muralis-close.JPG|[[Cymbalaria muralis]] Kenilworth ivy
Image:Euonymus fortunei a1.jpg|[[Euonymus fortunei]] 
Image:X Fatshedera lizei2.jpg|[[Fatshedera lizei]] 
Image:Fragariachileonsis.jpg|[[Fragraria chiloensis]] Wild strawberry
Image:Glechoma hederacea 001.JPG|[[Glechoma hederacea]] Ground ivy
Image:Variegated-ivy.jpg|[[Hedera]] Ivy
Image:Houttuynia cordata 'Chameleon'.jpg|[[Houttuynia cordata]] 
Image:Honeysuckle w y.jpg|[[Lonicera]] (some) Honeysuckle
Image:Mitchella.repens01.jpg|[[Mitchella repens]] Partridgeberry
Image:Monstera deliciosa3.jpg|[[Monstera deliciosa]] Split-leaf philodendron
Image:Pachysandra terminalis0.jpg|[[Pachysandra terminalis]] Japanese spurge
Image:WilderWein.jpg|[[Parthenocissus]] 
Image:Rhoicissus tomentosa capensis creeper - Cape Town 1.JPG|[[Rhoicissus capensis]] Evergreen grape
Image:Rubus pedatus 1370.JPG|[[Rubus pedatus]] 
Image:Jasmim1.jpg|[[Trachelospermum jasminoides]] Star jasmine
Image:Vinca major1.jpg|[[Vinca]] Periwinkle
</gallery>

==Shrubs==
<gallery>
Image:Abutilonmegapotamicum1web.jpg|[[Abutilon]] Flowering maple
Image:x|[[Acanthopanax sieboldianusz]] 'Variegatus' 
Image:Actaea erythrocarpa0.jpg|[[Actaea]] Baneberry
Image:x|[[Aucuba japonica]] Japanese aucuba
Image:x|[[Brunfelsia pauciflora]] 
Image:Buxus sempervirens foliage 1.jpg|[[Buxus]] Boxwood
Image:Camellia1.JPG|[[Camellia]] 
Image:x|[[Clethra alnifolia]] Summersweet
Image:x|[[Cleyera japonica]] 
Image:x|[[Cordyline stricta]] 
Image:Cycas inflorescence.jpg|[[Cycadaceae]] Cycads
Image:x|[[Daphne]] 
Image:x|[[Enkianthus campanulatus]] 
Image:x|[[Euonymus fortunei]] 
Image:Fatsia japonica0.jpg|[[Fatsia japonica]] Japanese aralia
Image:Fothergilla major (Witch alder).JPG|[[Fothergilla]] 
Image:Fuchsia regia - blossom (aka).jpg|[[Fuchsia]] 
Image:x|[[Gardenia jasminoides]] 
Image:x|[[Gaultheria]] 
Image:x|[[Hamamelis]] Witch hazel
Image:Hydrangeas corner.JPG|[[Hydrangea]] 
Image:Winterberry1.jpg|[[Ilex]] Holly
Image:Kalmia Latifolia.jpg|[[Kalmia latifolia]] Mountain laurel
Image:x|[[Leucothoe]] 
Image:Lindera melissifolia.jpg|[[Lindera]] Spicebush
Image:Loropetalum-chinensis-rubrum.jpg|[[Loropetalum chinense]] 
Image:Holly1web.jpg|[[Mahonia]] 
Image:x|[[Nandina domestica]] Heavenly bamboo
Image:x|[[Osmanthus]] 
Image:x|[[Philodendron selloum]] 
Image:x|[[Pieris]] 
Image:x|[[Pittosporum tobira]] Tobira
Image:x|[[Phapis]] Lady palm
Image:Rhododendron-by-eiffel-public-domain-20040617.jpg|[[Rhododendron]] Azalea
Image:x|[[Ribes sanguineum]] Pink winter currant
Image:x|[[Ruscus]] Butcher's broom
Image:x|[[Sarcococca]] Sweet box
Image:x|[[Skimmia japonica]] 
Image:Symphoricarpos albus 7927.jpg|[[Symphoricarpos]] (some) Snowberry
Image:x|[[Taxus]] Yew
Image:x|[[Ternstroemia gymnanthera]] 
Image:Vaccinium corymbosum(01).jpg|[[Vaccinium]] 
Image:x|[[Viburnum]] (evergreen) 
</gallery>

==Trees==
<gallery>
Image:x|[[Acer palmatum]] Japanese maple
Image:x|[[Cercidiphyllum japonicum]] Katsura tree
Image:x|[[Cercis canadensis]] Eastern redbud
Image:x|[[Davidia involucrata]] Dove tree
Image:x|[[Franklinia alatamaha]] 
Image:Halesia carolina0.jpg|[[Halesia]] 
Image:x|[[Laurus nobilis]] Sweet bay
Image:x|[[Palms]] (some) 
Image:Podocarpus neriifolius.jpg|[[Podocarpus]] 
Image:ScheffleraActinophylla.jpg|[[Schefflera]] 
Image:x|[[Stewartia]] 
Image:Dicksonia antarctica Cultivated GardenEngland.jpg|[[Tree fern]]s 
</gallery>

Red

2012-08-27T14:12:31Z

Raffi: Undo revision 135058 by Raffi (talk)

#REDIRECT [[Special:Whatlinkshere/Red]]

Yellow

2012-08-27T14:12:28Z

Raffi: Undo revision 135062 by Raffi (talk)

#REDIRECT [[Special:Whatlinkshere/Yellow]]

Green

2012-08-27T14:12:25Z

Raffi: Undo revision 135063 by Raffi (talk)

#REDIRECT [[Special:Whatlinkshere/Green]]

Orange

2012-08-27T14:11:41Z

Raffi: moved Orange (fruit tree) to Orange

{{SPlantbox
|familia=Rutaceae
|genus=Citrus
|species=sinensis
|common_name=Orange
|habit=tree
|Min ht metric=cm
|Max ht box=6
|Max ht metric=m
|Max wd box=9
|Max wd metric=m
|lifespan=perennial
|exposure=sun
|water=moist, moderate
|features=fragrance, edible, fruit
|Temp Metric=°F
|min_zone=9
|max_zone=11
|sunset_zones=8, 9, 12-27, indoors
|image=OrangeBloss_wb.jpg
|image_width=240
|image_caption=Orange blossoms and oranges on tree
}}
An '''orange'''—specifically, the '''sweet orange'''—is the [[citrus]] fruit ''Citrus sinensis'' ([[Synonymy|syn.]] ''Citrus aurantium'' [[Carl Linnaeus|L.]] [[var.]] ''dulcis'' [[Carl Linnaeus|L.]], or ''Citrus aurantium'' [[Antoine Risso|Risso]]) and its [[fruit]]. The orange is a [[Hybrid (biology)|hybrid]] of ancient cultivated origin, possibly between [[pomelo]] (''Citrus maxima'') and [[tangerine]] (''Citrus reticulata''). It is a small [[Flowering plant| flowering]] [[tree]] growing to about 10 [[metres|m]] tall with [[evergreen]] [[leaf|leaves]], which are arranged alternately, of ovate shape with crenulate margins and 4–10 [[centimetre|cm]] long. The orange [[fruit]] is a [[hesperidium]], a type of [[berry]].

Oranges originated in Southeast [[Asia]]. The fruit of ''Citrus sinensis'' is called ''sweet orange'' to distinguish it from ''Citrus aurantium'', the [[bitter orange]]. In a number of languages, it is known as a "Chinese apple" (e.g. [[Dutch language|Dutch]] ''Sinaasappel'', "China's apple", or "Apfelsine" in German). The name is thought to ultimately derive from the [[Dravidian languages|Dravidian]] word for the orange tree, with its final form developing after passing through numerous intermediate languages.

==Fruit==
All citrus trees are of the single genus ''Citrus'', and remain largely interbreedable; that is, there is only one "superspecies" which includes [[grapefruit]]s, [[lemon]]s, [[lime (fruit)|lime]]s and oranges. Nevertheless, names have been given to the various members of the genus, oranges often being referred to as ''Citrus sinensis'' and ''[[bitter orange|Citrus aurantium]]''. Fruits of all members of the genus ''Citrus'' are considered [[berry|berries]] because they have many [[seed]]s, are fleshy and soft, and derive from a single [[ovary (plants)|ovary]]. An orange seed is called a [[pip]]. The white thread-like material, attached to the inside of the peel is called [[pith]].

==Varieties==
===Persian orange===

The Persian orange, grown widely in [[southern Europe]] after its introduction to [[Italy]] in the 11th century, was bitter. Sweet oranges brought to Europe in the 15th century from [[India]] by [[Portugal|Portuguese]] traders, quickly displaced the bitter, and are now the most common variety of orange cultivated. The sweet orange will grow to different sizes and colours according to local conditions, most commonly with ten ''[[carpel]]s'', or segments, inside.

Some South East European tongues name [[Orange (fruit)|orange]] after Portugal, which was formerly the main source of imports of sweet oranges. Examples are [[Bulgarian language|Bulgarian]] ''portokal'' [портокал], [[Modern Greek|Greek]] ''portokali'' [πορτοκάλι], [[Romanian language|Romanian]] ''portocală'' and [[Georgian language|Georgian]] ''phortokhali'' [ფორთოხალი]. Also in [[Italian dialects|South Italian dialects]] ([[Neapolitan language|Neapolitan]]), orange is named ''portogallo'' or ''purtualle'', literally "the Portuguese ones". Related names can also be found in non-European languages: [[Turkish language|Turkish]] ''Portakal'', [[Arabic language|Arabic]] ''al-burtuqal'' [البرتقال], [[Persian language|Persian]] ''porteghal'' [پرتقال] and [[Amharic]] ''birtukan''.

[[Portuguese empire|Portuguese]], [[Spanish empire|Spanish]], [[Arab empire|Arab]], and [[Dutch empire|Dutch]] sailors planted citrus trees along trade routes to prevent [[scurvy]]. On his second voyage in [[1493]], Christopher Columbus brought the seeds of oranges, lemons and citrons to [[Haiti]] and the Caribbean. They were introduced in Florida (along with lemons) in [[1513]] by [[Spain|Spanish]] explorer [[Juan Ponce de Leon]], and were introduced to [[Hawaii]] in [[1792]].

===Navel orange===
[[Image:Navel orange sectioned.jpg|thumb|250px|left|A peeled sectioned navel orange. The underdeveloped twin is located on the bottom right.]]
A single [[mutation]] in [[1820]] in an [[orchard]] of sweet oranges planted at a [[monastery]] in [[Brazil]] yielded the '''navel orange''', also known as the Washington, Riverside, or Bahie navel. The mutation causes navel oranges to develop a second orange at the base of the original fruit, opposite the stem. The second orange develops as a [[Conjoined twins|conjoined twin]] in a set of smaller segments embedded within the peel of the larger orange. From the outside, the smaller, and undeveloped twin leaves a formation at the bottom of the fruit that looks similar to the human [[navel]].

Because the mutation left the fruit seedless and, therefore, sterile, the only means available to cultivate more of this new variety is to graft cuttings onto other varieties of citrus tree. Two such cuttings of the original tree were transplanted<ref>[http://thegoldengecko.com/blog/?p=34 Parent Navel Orange Tree in Riverside, CA]</ref> to [[Riverside, California|Riverside]], [[California]] in [[1870]], which eventually led to worldwide popularity.

Today, navel oranges continue to be produced via [[cutting (plant)|cutting]] and [[grafting]]. This does not allow for the usual [[artificial selection|selective breeding]] methodologies, and so not only do the navel oranges of today have exactly the same genetic makeup as the original tree, and are therefore [[clones]]; in a sense, all navel oranges can be considered to be the fruit of that single, over a century-old tree.

On rare occasions, however, further mutations can lead to new varieties.<ref>[http://www.citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus/sweet_oranges.html Citrus Variety Collection]</ref>

===Valencia orange===

The [[Valencia orange|Valencia]] or [[Murcia]] orange is one of the sweet oranges used for juice extraction. It is a late-season fruit, and therefore a popular variety when the navel oranges are out of season. For this reason, the orange was chosen to be the official [[mascot]] of the [[1982 FIFA World Cup]], which was held in [[Spain]]. The mascot was called "[[Naranjito]]" ("little orange"), and wore the colours of the Spanish soccer team uniform.

===Blood orange===
[[Image:2005orange.PNG|thumb|right|Orange output in 2005]]
The [[blood orange]] has streaks of red in the fruit, and the juice is often a dark burgundy colour. The fruit has found a niche as an interesting ingredient variation on traditional Seville marmalade, with its striking red streaks and distinct flavour. The '''scarlet navel''' is a variety with the same diploid mutation as the navel orange.

==Cultivation==

==Propagation==
Grafting, cuttings for true offspring. Seed.
==Pests and diseases==

==Uses==
Fruit, juice, marmelade. Oil from peel. Orange peel is used by gardeners as a [[slug]] repellent. Orange leaves can be boiled to make tea.

==Gallery==
<gallery>
Image:Ambersweet oranges.jpg|These varieties are called 'Ambersweet' oranges.
Image:Orangeseeds.jpg|Featured here are orange seeds (pips).
Image:Florida navel orange 1.jpg|Navel oranges from Florida are the most common to be sold in US grocery stores.
Image:2007-12-25-IMG 0451.JPG|Satsuma Oranges picked on Christmas day 2007 in [[Gainesville, Florida]]
</gallery>

==Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture==
{{Inc|
Orange. Plate LXXVIII. The orange is one of the oldest of cultivated fruits. Its nativity is still in doubt, but it is probable that it is indigenous to the Indo- Chinese region. It is now widely distributed in all warm- temperate and tropical countries, in many of which it has run wild and behaves like a native plant. In parts of Florida the orange was found wild when permanent settlements were made, but it had probably spread from stock that was introduced by the early Spaniards. In stature of tree and character of fruit, the orange has varied immensely. Normally, the fruit contains ten compartments or locules; but under the influence of domestication these compartments have been increased, and in some cases a secondary axis, with its accompanying locules, has been thrust into the center of the fruit, causing the "navel" appearance of some varieties (Figs. 2611, 2612). These navel oranges, of which the Washington Navel, or Bahia, is the best known, are chance kinds or varieties, as other varieties are. The immediate cause of this particular kind of variation, as of other variations, is unknown. The Washington Navel was introduced from Brazil in 1870 by the late Wm. Saunders, and by him distributed as the Bahia (see Van Deman, Report of the Department of Agriculture, 1886, page 267). The two "original" trees in California are still standing at Riverside, carefully protected (Fig. 2613). In recent years, some of the odd and grotesque types of Japanese oranges have been introduced into this country, but they will probably always be curiosities rather than commercial pomological products. See A.G. 1890,333-336. The sweet and sour oranges are considered to be two species (pages 782-784, Volume II), Citrus sinensis and C. Aurantium respectively. To the former belong nearly all the usual commercial oranges, although the King orange is C. nobilis, of which the tangerines, mandarins and satsumas are varieties (Figs. 2614, 2615). The orange belongs to a tribe of three-foliolate plants, and although its leaves appear to be simple, they are really compound. Fig. 2616 shows the articulation above a, at which point the blade is jointed to the rachis; this blade is a leaflet, and the side leaflets have not developed, as they do in the tri- foliolate orange (Citrus, or Poncirus, trifoliata).

There are three well-developed orange regions within the confines of the United States: central and southern Florida; the delta region of the Mississippi; California. Parts of Texas and the Mexico-Arizona region will no doubt develop into commercial orange sections in the near future. Until within recent years a large part of the oranges consumed in this country had come from Mediterranean regions, but the Florida and California oranges have taken the place of the imported fruit.

Oranges under glass.

Years ago, oranges were commonly grown under glass in England and parts of the continent. At that time there was no rapid transportation between the orange-growing regions and northern countries, and the orange fruit was a luxury. Special houses, known as "orangeries," were devoted to the culture of the fruit. The trees were ordinarily grown in large tubs or boxes, and were kept in the open in summer and were placed in the orangery in winter. These orangeries were scarcely greenhouses in the modern understanding of the term. In many cases they had slate or shingle roofs, the sides only being provided with an extra extent of glass in the shape of windows. Some of them, however, were houses with glass roofs. As imported oranges came to be more common, these orange-houses gradually fell into disuse. It is doubtful whether there are any of these establishments now standing in this country; but one sees them sometimes in Europe. As the orange trees disappeared, other plants were grown in the house, so that an orangery came to mean a particular kind of house in which plants are grown that will thrive in conditions suited to the orange. It came to be no uncommon thing to see orangeries in which there were no oranges.

The orange tree is still a popular subject in conservatories, however, and in window-gardens. In the latter conditions it rarely produces fruit of any consequence, but the shining evergreen foliage and the very fragrant flowers make the plant interesting and desirable. The plant is subject to scale and mealy-bug, and constant attention must be given to syringing and sponging the foliage. The leading difficulty in the rearing of an orange tree in the dwelling-house is a tendency to have it growing the entire year and to keep it too wet at the roots. After the fruiting season, in late autumn or early winter, the plant should be allowed to rest for a time in order to harden its wood for the next year's bloom. It may then be kept at a temperature of 40° to 50° and fairly dry at the roots. Water should not be withheld entirely, however, because the plant should be kept in such condition that the foliage will not drop. After a period of relative inactivity of one or two months, the plant may be set in a sunny place and given a somewhat higher temperature, and water and liquid manure may be applied at the roots. It should be in bloom in the summer and early autumn. Best results are secured if the roots are somewhat confined. When the plant is small, it may be potted on from time to time; but after it has attained the height of 5 or 6 feet, it should not be given more root-room than a small tub or a half-barrel. Ordinarily, it will not need repotting for several years at a time after it has attained this size. Some of the surface soil may be removed from time to time and fresh soil added and liquid manure applied. Usually the plants are grown from seeds, and they vary as peaches or apples do. Some of the plants may give desirable fruit, but the larger part of them will give fruit of indifferent or even inferior quality. If the best kind of fruit is wanted, the young plants should be budded after they are well established in the pots. Buds may be secured from any tree that bears a desirable fruit, or they may be brought from the South.

In recent years the Otaheite orange (described in Volume II, page 78.5) has come into prominence as a pot-plant. It is known botanically as Citrus taitensis (Fig. 2617). It is undoubtedly the best form of orange for growing in the house. The fruits are small and handsome, and the flowers have a pinkish tinge and are very fragrant. These plants will bloom and bear when not more than a foot high if the roots are somewhat confined or the plants not over-potted. Usually they will bloom the greater part of the year, but, like most hard-wooded plants, the best results are secured if they have a period of rest, as indicated above. The temperature for all oranges should be relatively low; that is, it should be the temperature of the intermediate house or one that will grow carnations, chrysanthemums, geraniums, and the like.

Literature.

There is much literature on the orange, a large part of it in the form of bulletins and reports. An authoritative general work on oranges is Risso and Poiteau, "Histoire et Culture des Oranges," Paris. On the oriental forms and histories of oranges, one should consult Bonavia, "The Cultivated Oranges and Lemons of India and Ceylon," London, 1890. The American books on the orange are as follows: Hume "Citrus Fruits and Their Culture;" Coit, "Citrus Fruits;" Garey, "Orange Culture in California;" Moore, "Treatise of Orange Culture in Florida, Louisiana and California;" Manville, "Practical Orange Culture: including the Culture of the Orange, Lemon, Lime, and other citrous fruits as grown in Florida;" Spalding, "The Orange: Its Culture in California;" also small books or pamphlets or reports LXXVIII. A cluster of oranges—the Pineapple variety. by Canada, Davis, Fish, Fowler, Gallesio, Garcelon, Lelong, Prange. L. H. B.

Orange-culture in Florida.

The Spanish occupation of Florida began with the landing of Ponce de Leon in 1513, and they maintained a more or less precarious hold upon the state, disputing possession with the English colonists to the northward, and with the aborigines, until the year 1821 (excepting the years 1763-1783), when it passed under the control of the United States. It was during the Spanish r6gime that oranges were first grown in Florida, and there is reason to believe that as early as the year 1600 the orange was fairly well established on the Florida peninsula.

As in the early days of orange-culture in Spain, the sour orange (Citrus Aurantium) was the fruit cultivated, so in Florida it is not unlikely that the earliest Spanish importations were of sour orange fruit from which seed was secured. At any rate, when the early English colonists made their homes in Florida, they found the sour orange much the more common, although some sweet orange groves were also found. One of the most noteworthy of these sweet orange groves was found in 1823 in Turnbull Hammock near Hawk's Park. It was from this grove that the old strains of oranges which made the Indian River famous came. The old sour orange groves were found mainly on the shores of lakes and rivers, where the fruit had been brought and consumed by the Indians and where the seeds, thrown aside by them, found a congenial soil for germination and growth. The trees were usually mixed with and protected by magnolia, live oak, and other hardwood forest growth. These natural sour orange groves were the foundation, in many instances, of important sweet orange plantings, particularly in the older orange districts in the central part of the state. In some cases, the sour orange trees were topworked where they stood; in others they were taken up, planted out in orchard form and then topworked. There is no orchard cultivation of the sour orange in the state at this time.

The earlier sweet orange groves in Florida were established near lakes and rivers because these afforded the only means of getting the fruit to market. These plantings were made almost entirely with seedling trees, and in spite of the ravages of mal-di-gomma and frost, in many regions they furnish a very large proportion of the crop at the present time. Nor is its quality open to question. In the early sixties there were many famous groves along the St. John's River, but it was not until the railroads opened up the state that the growing of citrous fruits took its place as Florida's most important horticultural industry.

Previous to the severe frost of 1894-5, much fruit was produced in northern Florida, but while some is still grown, the industry has been gradually moving southward, until now the larger part of the total crop comes from the southern part of the state.

Climate.

The Florida climate is usually marked in spring by a pronounced dry period which extends from the latter part of March or early April up to the beginning of the summer rains, which generally commence in June. During June, July, and August, the rainfall is uniform and heavy. The autumn months are fairly dry, while showers are intermittent during the winter season, with a very large proportion of days of bright sunshine. The annual average rainfall is 53 inches, most of which comes during the summer months.

Florida has been visited from time to time by severe cold waves. Among these, the most noteworthy were the ones which came in 1886 and in 1894-5. At the time of these cold waves, the orange industry was established in the more northerly counties of the state and consequently the damage was much more serious than would occur at the present time, owing to the opening up of the southern districts. The damage from cold waves in Florida has often been greatly increased because they were preceded by periods of high temperatures which caused sap movement in the trees. When entirely dormant, an orange tree is fairly hardy, while, in growth or when stirred from its dormant condition, it may be injured at comparatively high temperatures. This, however, is more or less true of other plants, though they do not respond so readily to variations in temperature. But in Florida, many fruit- trees and ornamentals entirely hardy much farther north have been injured at times because they were not completely dormant.

Soils.

Florida lands are generally grouped according to elevation and the growth of native timber or vegetation by which they are, or were, covered in a virgin state. Those commonly used for the cultivation of citrous fruits are high hammock, and low hammock, high pine and flat woods land.
High hammock lands are elevated, naturally well drained, and are covered with a native growth of evergreen hardwood and deciduous trees. Among these may be mentioned the live oak, hickory, magnolia, dogwood, and holly. They arc well supplied with vegetable matter, the soil is comparatively rich, deep and well adapted for citrous fruit-culture.

Low hammock lands (hammock is an Indian name for a hardwood forest) correspond in a large measure to the high hammock soils. They are not so well drained naturally. The native growth is of much the same character, but the sweet gum, live oak, and cabbage palmetto are more in evidence. Drainage requires careful attention, but the soil is rich in humus. The clearing and preparation of these low hammocks for planting is difficult and expensive, but the results in vigorous orange trees and crops of tine fruit leave Little to be desired.

High pine land is well drained, elevated and often rolling. The native growth consists almost entirely of long-leaf or yellow pine with little or no undergrowth, the latter being replaced by wire-grass. Sometimes a few high-land willow oaks are found. These lands are frequently swept by fires, and consequently the humus- content is lower than would otherwise be the case. The subsoil may be sand, clay or loamy sand. They are not rich soils, but respond readily to good treatment and produce excellent oranges.

Flat woods land is also covered with long-leaf and other pines, but the elevation is much lower and the surface flat and level. Often there is a dense growth of saw palmetto. The subsoil may be clay, sand or hardpan. The better class of flat woods make good citrous soils, but those supporting a heavy growth of saw palmetto or with a hardpan subsoil are not considered good, and though sometimes used are usually avoided. In the handling of Florida soils, the most important things to which attention should be given are drainage and the maintenance of the humus-content of the soil. The rainfall is heavy at times and provision must be made for the rapid elimination of surplus moisture, while the light character of the soil, high temperatures and moist condition assist in the rapid disintegration of the vegetable matter. A water table about 3 feet below the surface is desirable.

Stocks for citrous trees.

Intimately associated with the character of the soil is the kind of stock which should be used for the orchard. The seedling sweet orange as a foundation for a young orchard is a thing of the past and at this time only trees budded on stocks of different kinds are used.

The stocks more or less commonly used for orange trees in Florida are sour orange (Citrus Aurantium), rough lemon (form of Citrus Limonia), grapefruit (Citrus grandis) and trifoliata (Poncirus trifoliata). Each has its peculiar advantages for certain soils and climatic conditions.

No stock is more commonly used in the world's citrous regions than the sour orange. Trees propagated on it are long- lived, vigorous, and produce fruit of high quality. The stock itself is resistant to mal- di-gomma and some other similar diseases which affect other stocks. Wherever it can be used, it should be given preference. It is a congenial stock for all important varieties of oranges, the Satsuma alone excepted. This variety does not grow well upon it. The sour orange tree itself is more resistant to cold than the sweet oranges usually worked on it. It is adapted to low hammock, high hammock, flat woods and to high pine land soils where the latter are not too porous, open, and deficient in moisture. If fruit is to be held on the trees later than its season, or for late-maturing varieties, it has no superior.

Rough lemon stock produces more vigorous tree- growth than sour orange stock. The root-system is widespreading and rather shallow. It is much more tender than the sour orange and trees budded on it are not so cold-resistant. It is not desirable for early varieties as the fruit is not well filled and juicy, and fruit borne by trees budded on it cannot be held very much beyond its season without parting with its juice. It is adapted to conditions where a comparatively shallow root-system is advantageous and to very light sandy soils where a root-system of wide foraging range is necessary.

Grapefruit stock, used in a limited way, produces high quality fruit and is adapted to soils containing liberal amounts of moisture and with rather high water-tables. Where it can be used, it gives very satisfactory results. If the soil is underlaid with clay, close to the surface, so much the better. Grapefruit stock is entirely unsuited to dry open porous soils. In point of hardiness and resistance to cold, it ranks with rough lemon.

Poncirus (Citrus) trifoliata, commonly referred to as trifoliata stock, is the hardiest citrous stock now in general use in America. The tree itself will stand 22° F. at least and it imparts a certain measure of its own hardiness to the orange that is worked on it. This, in the main, is brought about by its very dormant character. In this combination is a noteworthy example of an evergreen tree budded on a deciduous one. Trees budded upon it do not start into growth so readily nor so early in spring. The fruit produced on this stock is smooth, thin-skinned, very juicy, and of high quality even with the very first crops. Poncirus trifoliata stock is adapted to clay soils, loamy or sandy soils with clay close to the surface and to alluvial soils. It requires a uniform and goodly supply of moisture. In Florida it is used for plantings of Satsuma and other oranges in the northern and western parts of the state.

Propagation and the seed-bed.

The seed-bed in which citrous seedlings are grown is carefully prepared in advance by liming and by applying commercial fertilizers. The soil is well and deeply broken, pulverized and raked free of all roots and trash. Irrigation is usually provided, though not always necessary and may be dispensed with on moister soils.

Seeds of sour orange, rough lemon, grapefruit and trifoliata are extracted by cutting through the rind of the fruit, twisting the halves apart and squeezing out the pulp and seed into a vessel.
They are then washed free from pulp and dried off slightly in the sun, just enough to remove such moisture as may remain on the seed-coats. Sometimes the fruits are allowed to decay partially, when the seed is removed by macerating in water and floating off the pulp, rind, and other refuse.

Citrous seeds will not stand drying and remain viable. If they are dried, the cotyledons separate and they will not germinate. Seeds may be kept several weeks, or even months, by drying off on the outside and packing in pulverized charcoal in tight receptacles. It is best, however, to plant sour orange, rough lemon, and grapefruit seeds immediately after they are extracted in December and January. Trifoliata seed is best extracted in September and October and planted at once in soil containing considerable moisture, yet well drained. Frosts arc very injurious to young citrous seedlings of all kinds except trifoliata. If frozen off when 1 or 2 inches in height, they are killed out, but trifoliata develops shoots from buds lower down on the stem and the stand is but little injured.

Seeds are planted much as garden beans are planted, in rows 2 feet apart. Frequent cultivation is given from the time the plants come through the soil, and fertilizers rich in nitrogen are applied from time to time as required by the seedlings. Damping-off sometimes causes serious losses in seed-beds, but may be prevented by spraying frequently with bordeaux mixture and by keeping the soil about the plantlets dry and well pulverized on top.

Seedlings are transplanted when one year old and 6 to 15 inches in height or when two years old and 15 to 24 inches in height. Preference is given to the larger seedlings, as they are easier to handle and care for under field conditions. The nursery rows are spaced 4 feet apart, the plants about 1 foot apart in the rows. A row is left out here and there at convenient distances apart, making an 8-foot wagon passage. About 10,000 seedlings are set on an acre of ground.

The seedlings are grown from one to two seasons in the nursery, when they are ready for budding.
While citrous trees may be propagated in many different ways, budding alone is resorted to in nursery practice in Florida. By far the greater number of trees are dormant budded, the buds being inserted by the ordinary inverted shield method, the cross cuts being made at the bottom of the downward incisions and the buds shoved up from below. Wrapping is usually done with strips of waxed cloth. These are allowed to remain on from ten days to three weeks, depending upon weather conditions. Frequently, in the colder sections, these dormant buds are banked with earth, using a plow and a celery-hiller, to protect them against possible frost- injury in winter. In spring, the seedling tops are cut off and a stake driven beside each bud, to which it is tied as it grows. These stakes (4 feet long and ¾ inch square, made of cypress) insure straight trunks on the young trees and prevent the buds from being broken off when young and succulent. Careful attention is given to keep off all sprouts which come out on the stock and on the bud growth too low down. The work of sprouting and tying requires each bud to be handled five or six times by competent workmen, during the summer growing season. This adds greatly to the expense, but is necessary in the production of quality stock. At about 30 inches, the buds are topped and allowed to branch. Good buds of one season s growth will caliper ½ to ⅞ inch, 2 inches above where the buds were inserted. Usually the buds are placed rather close to the ground.

One-year buds are used by many planters, but two- and three-year buds are preferred by many, particularly among the older planters. These hitter trees caliper from 1 to 2 inches, depending upon the variety and the stock on which they are grown.

Planting.

Opinions vary considerably as to the best distances at which to set orange trees in Florida, but 25 by 25 feet may be taken as a reasonable distance for standard sorts, or sixty-nine trees to the acre. Some prefer to set trees farther apart one way than the other, as 20 by 30 feet. Satsuma is usually planted 20 by 20 feet. The rectangular system is used almost entirely.

Land is prepared for planting, by plowing deeply and pulverizing thoroughly. Nearly all Florida soils are greatly benefited by applications of lime, and by having a cover-crop of some kind grown on them during the summer and turned under the autumn before planting. This increases the humus-content of the soil and leaves it in the best possible condition for the trees.

Sometimes orange trees are planted out during the early summer months, just after the summer rains set in; but by far the best season for planting the trees is during the winter months of December, January, and February. Planting should not be delayed too late; as best results are secured if the trees are established in advance of the dry spring period, which usually begins in March.

In the actual setting of the trees, the chief points to be observed are (1) that the roots be not exposed, (2) that the trees be set at the same depth as they grew in the nursery row, (3) that the soil, naturally rather open, be well packed and firmed about the roots. Balled trees are not used in Florida on account of the character of the soil, nor are they considered necessary. Water at time of planting is advantageous, as it helps to settle and pack the soil about the roots, and at times there is an actual lack of moisture to be supplied. Surface soil is used in filling in about the roots and some commercial fertilizer is often thoroughly mixed with it, from a half-pound to a pound, depending upon the size of the trees. The use of stable manure is not advisable.

Cultivation.

Clean cultivation throughout the year, though at one time attempted in Florida, is a practice which has entirely disappeared. It did not take many years to demonstrate that it was a failure, because the basic necessity of maintaining and increasing the humus- content of the soil was not taken into consideration. At the present time, two systems of cultivation are in use: (1) the usual system of clean cultivation in spring and summer, followed by a cover-crop; (2) a system of non-cultivation, under which the vegetation which covers the soil is cut from time to time and allowed to mulch the surface.

By far the greater number of plantings is handled by the first system. Under the clean-culture-cover- crop or the 4-C system, cultivation begins in early spring as soon as danger of frost is past and the trees have started into growth, and is continued until about the middle of June or the beginning of the summer rainy season. During this period the grove is cultivated shallowly once every ten days or thereabouts, and a dust mulch is constantly preserved to prevent the escape of moisture from the soil. When cultivation ceases in June, a cover-crop is either planted or allowed to come on voluntarily, consisting of cowpeas, velvet beans, beggarweed or native weeds and grasses. If the growth of this crop is so rank as to make it difficult to handle in fall, it is cut with a mowing machine and allowed to remain on the ground for some time before incorporating in the soil. In autumn the coyer-crop is either plowed under or cut into the soil with a disc-harrow. It is advisable to have the ground bare and free from vegetation in winter as a safeguard against fires, and when the soil is bare, the trees suffer much less from cold than when the soil surrounding them is covered by a dense mat of dead or living vegetation. On heavier soils the cover-crop may be plowed under, but on lighter soils best results are secured by disposing of it with disc-harrow, cutting it over several times if necessary. In Florida, it is not advisable to incorporate a green cover-crop with the soil. The advantage of the 4-C system is that clean culture during the spring months conserves soil-moisture when most needed, while the cover-crop during the summer helps to take care of the excess supplied by the rains. At the same time, vegetable matter is added. In handling young groves, the plan is often followed of cultivating the soil in the narrow strip along the tree rows throughout practically the whole season and growing a cover- crop on the middles. The implements commonly used for grove-cultivation in Florida are the plow, disc-harrow, and Acme harrow.

The system of non-cultivation is followed on certain lowlands, on light soils, and, in general, where the character of the soil or subsoil makes it inadvisable to follow the 4-C system. It has also given good results under conditions where the 4-C system might be used, and is followed because less expensive and the trees thrive under it. The plan is to give no cultivation at all, except when the trees are young, only to hoe the weeds and grass immediately surrounding the trees. This same end is secured in many cases by mulching heavily with weeds, grass, leaves or trash of any sort. From time to time, the mower is used to cut down the growth of vegetation. It is allowed to remain where it falls. There is no question but that fine fruit is produced under certain conditions by this system, but much depends upon the character of the soil and the moisture available.

Cover-crops.

The plants commonly used in Florida for cover-crops are beggarweed, cowpeas, velvet bean and its relatives, and native weeds and grasses. Cowpeas and velvet beans are better adapted for new soils, those only recently brought into cultivation. These crops are also very valuable for preparing soils for planting. A good stand of cowpeas may be secured on almost any Florida citrous soil if planted at the right season. But the best cover-crop for Florida orange groves is beggar- weed, either alone or combined, as it most usually is, with a number of other native plants. These latter appear without the necessity of seeding them.

Beggarweed is a strong, erect annual legume, a native of Florida, and thoroughly adapted to all parts of the state. When standing apart, with plenty of room for growth, it is a much-branched plant, but, when closely planted, it produces small straight stems. Nitrogen tubercles are produced in abundance on its deep roots. At the end of its season's growth, a good covering of partially decayed foliage covers the ground. Often it is best to cut it once during the season to prevent its getting too rank and heavy. If cut at the blossoming season, a second crop will come on from the stubble. As much as one to two tons of stems and leaves may be produced to an acre. From five to ten pounds of seed are sown to the acre in April and May, broadcasted and harrowed into the soil. After the crop has become well established, it reseeds itself from year to year and cultivation may be continued up to the rainy season without interfering with the crop. It will come on as soon as cultivation ceases. If it be deemed advisable to stop the growth of beggarweed in a grove, as is sometimes the case if there is too much nitrogen in the soil, it may be accomplished by cutting frequently to prevent seeding and by continuing cultivation later into the summer.

Pruning.

The general plan followed in Florida orange-growing is to give the trees but little pruning. Beyond shaping up the trees, mostly done while they are young, little is done except to remove dead, injured or diseased branches. The type of trees developed is low-headed, symmetrical, and spreading. The low-headed tree is almost the only form seen in the younger groves and as the advantages in shading the ground and the tree-trunks, in spraying and in harvesting, are all in its favor, it is not likely to be displaced.

Fertilizers.

In no citrous region have the problems connected with the fertilizing of orange groves received more attention nor has a greater amount of definite knowledge pertaining to this difficult problem been secured than in Florida. The kind and quantity of fertilizer used has a pronounced influence, not only upon the quantity and quality of fruit, but upon the growth, health and longevity of the trees, and it has taken many years to determine the value of different materials in the fertilizers applied. Much remains to be found out, but a good start has at least been made.

The leguminous cover-crops referred to, when rightly handled, supply a large part of the necessary nitrogen, but the fertilizers applied to orange groves in Florida are drawn almost entirely from commercial sources. Potash is used largely in the forms of high- and low- grade sulfate of potash; phosphoric acid is secured from bones and phosphate rock, while nitrogen is procured from nitrate of soda, sulfate of ammonia, and from organic sources such as blood, tankage, cottonseed-meal, castor pomace, and the like. Much care must be exercised in the use of nitrogen in organic combinations because they are prone to induce "die back," a physiological disease characterized by the exudation of gum on twigs, leaves, and fruit. The several materials entering into the composition of fertilizers, as sulfate of potash, sulfate of ammonia, and acid phosphate (for example) may be purchased separately and mixed by the grower in proper proportions, but more usually they are mixed by the fertilizer manufacturers and sold as complete fertilizers.
Fertilizers for nursery trees, and plantings which have not reached bearing age, contain about 6 per cent phosphoric acid, 4 per cent ammonia, and 6 per cent potash, while for bearing trees one containing approximately 8 per cent phosphoric acid, 4 per cent ammonia, and 10 or 12 per cent potash is commonly used. These percentages are of course not absolute, as the exact composition must be governed by the character of the soil, the condition or requirements of the trees, and crops. Growers watch the behavior of their trees carefully and are governed in the use of fertilizers by their general appearance.

Lime is very generally deficient in Florida citrous soils and the trees and fruit are much benefited by applications of ground limestone, broadcasted over the surface at the rate of about two tons to the acre.

The general tendency in the use of commercial fertilizers is to make frequent applications of small amounts, thereby preventing loss from leaching. Applications, by many growers, are made in February, April, June, and September. The composition of these applications is often varied, giving larger amounts of nitrogen in spring and larger proportions of potash in autumn. Young orange trees are fertilized roughly on a basis of one pound to two pounds for each year of age and bearing trees according to their size and crop indications; sometimes as much as thirty or even fifty pounds a tree in the year is applied in the several applications to the latter. These amounts may even be exceeded if the crop in sight justifies.

In fertilizing young trees, the fertilizer is scattered in a band 2 or 3 feet wide, beginning back 6 to 12 inches from the trunk. As they become older, the fertilizer is spread out toward the ends of the branches and in old orchards or groves it is broadcasted over the whole surface, as the roots have made their way into all parts of the soil. After each application of fertilizer the ground is usually cultivated.

Insects and diseases.

The insects which cause most damage in Florida orange groves are the white-fly (Aleyrodes citri), scale insects of different kinds, and the rust mite. In insect- control, fumigation has been carefully tried out but has not met with general favor, and by most growers spraying is considered more satisfactory and practicable. Against the white- fly and scale insects, miscible oil and whale-oil soap sprays are generally used; and against the rust mite, sulfur in some form is effective. For the control of white-fly and scales, most of the spraying is done in the winter dormant season, one thorough application usually giving satisfactory results. Spraying for rust mite is done during the summer months as it injures the skin of the growing fruits, and three or more sprayings are generally necessary. In Florida, beneficial entomogenous fungi are very effective in holding scale insects and white-fly in control.

Among the fungous diseases the most injurious are melanose with which is associated the stem-end-rot, and anthracnose or wither-tip. These may be handled by careful attention to grove sanitation, removing diseased fruit, pruning out dead and injured wood, and by spraying with bordeaux mixture. "Die-back," a physiological trouble to which reference has already been made, may be corrected by changing the method of cultivation and the fertilizer used. The common method is to discontinue cultivation entirely, and use no fertilizers or those drawn only from inorganic sources and rich in potash.

Citrus Canker, a bacterial disease caused by Pseudomonas citri (see also page 2375) has gained a foothold in Florida and threatens serious injury to the citrus industry. The authorities are meeting with success in their determined efforts to stamp it out. No attempts have been made at control, the method of handling it being to burn the affected trees where they stand.

Frost protection.

Within recent years much attention has been given to the protection of orange groves against cold. Many different methods have been tried, but protection by means of sheds, tents and the like has been abandoned except for strictly amateur purposes (Figs. 2618, 2619). The trees were not fruitful under the artificial conditions created, or the methods were too costly. In the more exposed sections, the trees are still banked with clean earth, sufficiently high to afford protection to the bud unions. But the chief method of protection is by firing with small wood-fires or with oil-heaters.

Harvesting and marketing.

The season for Florida oranges extends from the latter part of October until June. This is divided into two parts by the Christmas holidays. At that time but little is shipped. Unfortunately, it has been the custom to ship fruit that is green and unfit for consumption. Attempts have been made to correct this mistake by laws and these have helped greatly.

Perhaps the greatest change in harvesting and marketing in the last two decades has been in the disappearance of the small individual packing-house. Most orange groves in Florida are small. 10 to 25 acres, and formerly nearly every owner had his own packinghouse and picked, packed, and shipped his own fruit under his own brand. Now the marketing of the crop is in the hands of the Florida Citrus Exchange, or of individuals or companies operating on a large scale, and the fruit, in large quantities, is handled through centrally located packing-houses equipped with every convenience for the rapid and economical preparation of the fruit for market (Fig. 2620). This noteworthy change has brought about a great improvement in the methods of handling and the uniformity of the pack. Every detail of picking, hauling, handling, packing, and shipping has been carefully investigated and many improvements have been introduced. As a result, the value of the Florida orange in the markets has been greatly increased by the care taken in handling it.

The standard Florida orange box, the size of which is fixed by state law, contains two compartments, each 12 by 12 by 12 inches, or 2 cubic feet of fruit. Oranges of the mandarin group are put up in half- boxes, two of which are fastened together for shipment, known as a "strap." The fruit is arranged in the box according to definite diagrams for each size.

The Florida orange crop has been gradually increasing. In the season of 1914-1815, approximately 7,000,- 000 boxes were produced.

Varieties.

Of the mandarin group, the varieties planted are Satsuma (in the northern part of the state), Dancy, Tangerine, and King. The Dancy originated in Florida; the other two are introductions.
A great many varieties of sweet oranges have originated in Florida as noteworthy seedlings in different groves. Perhaps in no fruit-growing region of America was the amateur spirit more strongly developed or was more interest taken in the merits of different varieties. Formerly a great many different sorts were planted, but gradually the most of these have been eliminated until only a few remain. Of these the most important, arranged according to season of ripening, are, Parson Brown, Homosassa, Pineapple, Ruby, Valencia Late (Hart's Tardiff, Hart's Late), and a recent introduction, Lue Gim-Gong, remarkable because of its late-keeping qualities. Of this list, all originated in Florida except Ruby and Valencia. These are introductions from Europe. H. Harold Hume.

Orange-culture in Louisiana.

From the early settlement of Louisiana to the present day, orange-culture has received most attention in the lower Mississippi delta, but for several years past, the other coastal lands have produced fruit in some quantity, and more recently, plantings of the hardy Satsuma variety in particular have been made in the interior sections of the southern half of the state. Originally, the seeds of sweet oranges were planted and the young trees transplanted in and around the home yards and gardens; and, to a slight extent, this method of growing trees is practised yet by individuals. No extensive groves were grown until after the close of the Civil War. At first, groves of these seedling trees only were planted and they proved exceedingly profitable up to the very cold spell of 1895, which destroyed nearly every one in the state. Another freezing calamity, occurring in February, 1899, utterly killed every tree to the ground.

In the meantime, extensive experiments had been made in budding the choice varieties of sweet oranges on various kinds of stocks, and many of the trials demonstrated the power of resisting moderate freezes by certain kinds of root-growth, notably the Poncirus trifoliata. Accordingly, many of the old groves and numbers of new ones were planted in budded stocks, using the buds of selected trees of sweet oranges and establishing them upon the Poncirus trifoliata. The success of this method also led to the growing of grapefruit or pomelo, mandarin or tangerine, and Satsuma and kumquat upon the trifoliata stock.

Budded stock has thus almost entirely superseded sweet seedlings. The sour orange, the bitter-sweet orange, the rough lemons, the grapefruit or pomelo, and the Poncirus trifoliata have all been used successfully as stock for the sweet orange. Meanwhile, with the introduction of the hardy Japanese varieties, including the Satsuma, mandarin or tangerine, these were also budded upon various kinds of stock. In 1895, when the temperature fell to 15° F. in New Orleans, the only trees able to survive this cold were found to consist of the combination of the hardy Japanese varieties budded upon the Poncirus trifoliata. This experience caused the adoption of the trifoliata as the chief stock for future groves. Therefore, nearly all of the groves planted since that time have been made with this stock.

Account must be taken of a frost limit beyond which this combination succumbs to the effects. Such results were evidenced by the unprecedented freeze of February! 1899, which practically wiped out every kind of citrous growth. Since that time, orange-growing made very slow progress for a long time, but gradually the ground was replanted and the industry expanded until plantings are now scattered over most of the southern half of the state, and, at present, many large groves are to be found. Under suitable attention, the industry has brought profitable returns, and the fame of the Louisiana Sweet, also called "creole orange," is widely known for its excellence. These names apply to a great variety of strains, but all are of a type originally introduced from southern Europe and developed by select cultivation. The budded trees bear early and yield in three to five years after being transplanted in the grove. The city of New Orleans furnishes a home market for most of the crop that is raised in the delta, although large shipments are made to northern points. Local consumption generally absorbs the supply grown in other sections.

The Louisiana orange matures ahead of the Florida fruit and is also ready before the California crop ripens, and, therefore, reaches the market when, on account of scarcity, good prices prevail. These facts, coupled with the readily productive soil, seldom requiring any fertilizer, and the abundant rainfall, dispensing with irrigation, make orange-culture attractive in Louisiana.

Frost protection.

The most serious drawback is an occasional cold blast from the North in winter or early spring, which drives Gulfward, overcoming the usually balmy weather and temporarily chilling the growth. At rare intervals, such as have been mentioned, a blizzard occurs so intense as to kill the trees outright. How to protect groves against these destructive frosts is an important matter with the orange-growers. Flooding the orchard with water drawn from the adjacent river or bayou, upon the approach of a freeze, has been practised upon a large scale without complete success. The use of oil- burning orchard-heaters, or smudge-pots, comes nearest to solving the problem, and some enterprising growers are equipped with outfits. Other producers sometimes resort to building smudge-fires on the ground. The practice of banking the trees by piling the soil around the trunk to a height of a few feet more or less (Fig. 2622), on the approach of a freezing spell whose intensity and time of coming are usually predicted by the government weather service, is very largely adopted as the next best economical protection against excessive cold. This banking retains vitality in the main trunk, and while the outer limbs may be killed, young shoots will start from the tree when the soil is removed and spring advances. This practice, therefore, gives only partial protection. Should the tree be frozen so as virtually to cause the death of the growth, new shoots from the protected trunk will soon appear, and in a year o two the tree resumes shape and becomes ready to bear a crop. Although the yield is lost for the ensuing interval, yet, by skilful care, the grower is enabled to secure a renewed orchard quickly. A trial with shelters built to cover the trees has shown them to be very expensive and, further, caused shortage of yield by shading the growth in summer.

Insects and diseases.

Unfortunately, not enough attention has been given toward preventing the introduction of pests, both insects and diseases, nor to accomplish their control after becoming established.

Consequently, through carelessness and neglect principally, the pests have spread nearly everywhere and made many trees unproductive. The leading growers have been compelled to fight these enemies in order to produce clean fruit in sufficient quantity to make commercial growing pay. Added to the cost of spraying groves regularly, some packers clean and polish their fruit, which process involves an investment in a properly equipped plant and further labor for the purpose. The chief insect foes are the citrus white-fly (Aleyrodes citri), the purple scale (Lepidosaphes beckii), Glover's or long scale (Lepidosaphes gloverii), and the chaff scale (Parlatoria pergandii).

Recently, the cottony cushion or fluted scale (Icerya purchasi) has appeared to a limited extent in one locality. With the advent of the Argentine ant (Iridomyrmex humilis), the attendance of this pest upon scale insects has greatly increased the abundance of the latter and complicated the problem of their control. Russeting of fruit, due to infestation by mites, occurs in some places.
Following the discovery of the canker disease in 1914, many thousands of nursery stock plants and numbers of older trees were entirely destroyed by cutting and burning in efforts to eradicate this incurable evil. The danger of this menace has brought the growers to a realization of the need of having adequate state protective measures provided for the industry. Awakening to the necessity of aiding in the development of citrous culture, the General Assembly in special session during 1915 appropriated $5,000 for eradication of canker, other diseases, and pests. This recognition, however, gives some hope that sufficient provision will be made by the state in the near future to bring it to the fore rank in horticultural prosperity through the suppression of enemies and the promotion of all fitting lines of fruit-growing. The leading orange culturists have effected an organization called the Louisiana Citrus Growers' Association, whose object is to protect their interests against natural foes.

Propagation.

The propagation of oranges is effected directly from seed and from buds. Budding is done at any time of the year from early spring to late fall. When performed in the fall, the buds remain dormant through the winter. The various stocks have particular merits for special soils and other conditions, and several kinds are used, as already said; but when the chief obstacle to successful orange-culture is cold, all other considerations must be dispensed with and only the most resistant stocks used. These stocks, are, first, Poncirus trifoliata, and, second, sour orange. The latter, however, is not very well adapted to the climate much north of the latitude of New Orleans. Hence, nearly all Louisiana groves have been propagated on these two stocks, a large part being on the former.

Planting a grove is always preceded by a nursery, and though home-grown stock is being produced in extensive quantities, most trees for planting are yet brought from outside of the state. The nursery is started by planting the seed of the Poncirus trifoliata or sour orange. When the shoots are one to two years old, they are shield-budded with buds from selected varieties, or rarely grafted to obtain the desired kind of top-growth. One year later, as a rule, the combined growth is large enough to be planted out in groves.

Soil and fertilizer.

The soil selected for groves is first thoroughly prepared and pulverized, and needs to be well drained. The trees are planted at intervals of 12 to 20 feet (some time more or less) apart both ways, and the grove is cultivated until the trees become large enough to shade the ground. After that period, only the weeds and bushes are kept down. Very early or late cultivation of trees is usually discouraged, as having a tendency to induce a too luxuriant, sappy growth, which may be injured by subsequent frosts. The cultivation is usually performed with light plows or suitable cultivators.

A fertilizer containing fifty pounds of nitrogen, fifty pounds potash, and twenty-five pounds phosphoric acid to an acre is the one usually recommended in this state. Of course, special requirements should be considered, depending on the age of trees. Sometimes on rich soils, only a dressing of lime or bone-meal is needed. Truck or leguminous crops may be advantageously grown between the rows of young trees.

Yield.

In three years after a grove is planted, the trees should begin to bear, increasing their products every year thereafter, and becoming profitable at five to six years of growth. When ripe, the fruit is carefully gathered by hand with clippers, using ladders to reach the high limbs, then assorted and packed in boxes, and shipped to market, generally in New Orleans.

Some idea of the status of production may be obtained from figures secured in 1915 by the entomologist in charge of Tropical and Subtropical Fruit Insect Investigations of the United States Department of Agriculture, having a station in New Orleans. According to the data applying to 361 groves, the yield is classified proportionately as follows: sweet, 63 per cent: mandarin, 20 per cent; tangerine, 5 per cent; navel, 7 per cent; pomelo, 3 per cent; Satsuma, 1 per cent; and Valencia, kumquat and miscellaneous, 1 per cent. On an average, 108 trees are planted to the acre. In Plaquemines, St. Bernard and Cameron parishes, the number of bearing trees amounted to 270,505, while 73,285 trees were found that had not yet borne any fruit. A large part of a tract of 7,000 acres, located near the city of New Orleans, has been planted in groves, and the company is proceeding in preparations to cover the whole area with one vast orchard.

The marketable crop for 1914 was placed at 275,000 boxes by a well-posted commission merchant of New Orleans. To quote his experience during the past twenty years in marketing the fruit, he says: "When my first visits were made to groves, the growers were not disposed to deal with commission merchants, owing to previous unfair treatment, and the industry was entirely without organization. The growers then had no knowledge of the value of their oranges, or of how to market them. They sold their fruit to speculators, who bought it on the trees, for any price that they chose to give for the crop. These speculators' manner of handling the fruit was very crude. Thev pulled the oranges from the trees without the use of clippers, threw them into buckets, dumped them into boxes, hauled them to the boats which sailed for New Orleans, and, in this unattractive fashion, offered the fruit for market in a bruised and decaying state. After educating the growers, they began picking carefully, but without any method of grading or sizing. The first packing efforts were made without using wrapping-paper, though later they were taught how to wrap the fruit. Many years passed, however, before our leading growers were induced to install modern graders, cleaners and polishers. The growers are now using labeled paper and printed boxes, and compete in the principal markets, and have been doing so for the past several seasons, with the best oranges grown elsewhere.

"Louisiana oranges are of the highest quality, being thin-skinned, sweet, juicy, and have a delicious flavor that is not found in any other orange. A number of markets take them at higher net prices to the growers than are obtained for either Florida or California oranges. A vastly greater quantity than we now raise could be handled to equally good advantage. The opportunity to market so many more than are now grown should be an inducement to an enormously increased acreage.

"Any number of growers who have shipped from 1,000 to 10,000 boxes of oranges are willing to testify that results during the past five years have been from $1.25 to $1.75 per box net on the trees. These prices included culls and all varieties of oranges which they grew. The production per tree compares favorably with other citrous fruit growing sections. Our real industry, however, lies in our commercial varieties known as the Louisiana Sweet orange. This fruit comes on the market about the first of October, and shipments continue until the first of January. The season could be extended, but, on account of our limited crops, we find no necessity to hold the fruit any longer. We grow successfully the Satsuma, which begins to move in the latter part of September, and shipments are made until the end of October. Then follows our sweet high-grade mandarin; these first appear in October and last until the middle of November, sometimes extending a month longer. The tangerine starts to move about the middle of November and continues until the latter part of December. The navel orange is also grown very successfully, the only drawback being that they grow too large, as the market is limited for extra-large sizes. Valencias are ready for market in February and the season extends until March; they usually command $1 per box more than Louisiana Sweets for the reason that the bulk of the sweet crop is then sold out. thus leaving a bare market.
Grapefruit is perfectly adapted to our soil and climate. It is a large producer and of a quality equal, if not superior, to that grown elsewhere. Our prices have been very high, on account of which our growers are generally increasing their acreage of this fruit tree." E. S. Tucker.

Orange-culture in California.

Orange seeds were brought into California by the Jesuit missionaries who planted the first orchard at San Gabriel Mission in 1804. The success of these trees so impressed William Wolfskill, a Kentucky trapper of German blood, that he planted the first commercial orange orchard in 1841 on the ground now occupied by the Arcade Passenger Station of the Southern Pacific Railway in the city of Los Angeles. Wolfskill was highly successful and gradually enlarged his orchard of seedling trees from 2 to 70 acres. It was he who, in 1877, shipped the first full carload of oranges across the Rocky Mountains to eastern markets.

Thomas A. Garey, of Los Angeles, established the first citrous nursery in 1865 and by propagating trees and introducing new varieties, played a prominent part in establishing the industry.

Extensive commercial development of orange-culture may be said to have begun with the completion of the Southern Pacific Railroad's connections with the East in 1876. Three years later, the exhibition of the first fruits of the Washington Navel orange at Riverside gave another impetus to citrous planting, but the greatest development came with the completion of the Santa Fe's competing line of railroad which was opened about 1885.

The strong demand for California oranges in the eastern markets and the high prices received by some, brought on a period of frenzied planting and speculation which culminated hi 1882-1883, when drought, frost, scale insects, and the lack of a coherent marketing organization, conspired rudely to awaken from their golden dreams many who had rushed into the business with insufficient knowledge and capital to weather a period of depression. Since 1890, expansion has been rapid but conservative; better distribution and increased consumption have taken care of the increased production. At present (1915) production is increasing much more rapidly than consumption. The growth in production may best be shown by the shipments for the past twenty-four years:

California Citrous Shipments.

(Including all citrous fruits.)

Season Carloads

1890-91………. 4,016

1891-92………..4,400

1892-93……….. 5,871

1893-94 ……….5,022

1894-95 ………7,575

1895-96 ……..6,915

1896-97 ……..7,350

1897-98 …….15,400

1898-99 …….10,875

1899-00 …….18,400

1900-01 ……..24,900

1901-02 …….19,180

Season Carloads

1902-03 ……………23,871

1903-04 ………….29,399

1904-05 ………….31,422

1905-06 …………..27,610

1906-07 ………….29,820

1907-08 ………….32,729

1908-09 ………….40,592

1909-10 …………32,648

1910-11 ………….46,394

1911-12 ………….40,673

1912-13 ………….18,960

1913-14 …………..48,548

The chief factors which have influenced the growth of the industry are: (1) The very favorable climatic and soil conditions. (2) The building of the railroads. (3) The great success of the Washington Navel variety as a regular and heavy bearer, a good shipper, and a splendid seller. (4) The protective duties imposed upon imported citrous fruits by the United States Congress. These duties have been continuously in force since July 4, 1789, although they have been changed in amount nineteen tunes during that period. (5) The marked enterprise of the persons engaged in the business. The California citrous business is peculiar in that the persons who have made it are, in so many cases, retired business or professional men from the East and North who, having lost their health in the acquisition of wealth, have bought and developed citrous properties, thus bringing into the industry much-needed capital, commercial ability, and business habits. (6) Cooperative packing and marketing. By this means a uniform standard pack has been established, better distribution secured, and, by uniting their strength, the growers have been able to secure from the railroads many valuable concessions. (7) The introduction of the Australian lady-bird beetle, Novius cardinalis, and its control of the cottony cushion scale. (8) The development of the method of refrigeration in transit. (9) Rigid inspection and quarantine methods against injurious insect pests and diseases. By this means the state has so far been kept free from the Mexican orange maggot, the Mediterranean fruit-fly, and many other damaging pests, such as the citrus canker. (10) Scientific investigations and research by the United States Department of Agriculture, the State University Agricultural Experiment Station, and the State Commission of Horticulture. (11) The great advertising activities by the Chambers of Commerce of the various cities and towns.
It is estimated that in 1915 the California citrous industry represents an investment of $200,000,000 and gives continuous employment to the equivalent of 40,000 persons. Not less than 200,000 acres were devoted to citrous fruits at the end of 1914.

The orange-producing lands of California are scattered from San Diego to Shasta County, a north-and- south distance of 450 miles. It is a peculiar fact that there are orange orchards in California in the same latitude with New York City; Peoria, Illinois; Lincoln, Nebraska; and Salt Lake City, Utah. This is made possible by the peculiar topography of the state whereby the mountain ranges are so arranged that the cold winds of the North are shut out, and the warm southwesterly breezes from the Pacific are admitted. The great interior valleys, such as the Sacramento, San Joaquin and Imperial, are very hot and dry. The chief citrous areas of these valleys are situated on the foothills about their rims. West and south of the Coast Range, the fogs and moist ocean breezes protect, to an extent, from sudden fluctuations in temperature, and orange orchards extend from the foothills well out upon the valley floor. The factors which determine orange areas are: frequency of frosts, water-supply, transportation, and soil conditions. The greatest and most productive area embraces the country around Los Angeles, Riverside, Redlands, Corona, Orange and Santa Ana. The second area in importance is the Por- terville section in Tulare County. Other important areas are in San Diego, Santa Barbara, Ventura, Kern, Fresno, Sacramento, Yuba, and Butte counties. Large extensions are now under way in Ventura, Los Angeles, Tulare, Fresno, Glenn, Sacramento and Tehama counties. On account of the higher temperatures, the interior valley oranges ripen much earlier than those grown near the coast. As some of these valley orchards lie far to the north of the coast country orchards, the unusual procedure of shipping early ripening fruits southward to market is accounted for.

Cultivation.

Almost all the old seedling orchards of early days have given place to budded trees. Several kinds of stocks are used. The most popular root at present is the Florida sour orange, because it is better suited to heavy lands and is markedly resistant to gum disease and foot-rot. Sweet orange root is desirable on light well-aerated soils. Grapefruit root is being increasingly used and is especially satisfactory on desert soils of a granitic nature. The use of China lemon root has been discontinued entirely. The rough lemon and trifoliata roots are little used, as they very rarely show any advantage over the sour or pomelo, and in many cases suffer in comparison with them.
Seeds are usually planted under the partial shade of a lath-house. They are covered with an inch of sterile sand and watered with great care in order to prevent serious loss from damping-off fungi. After a year in the lath-house, the seedlings are transplanted into the field 12 inches apart in rows 4 feet apart. After a year's growth, they are budded from 2 to 6 inches from the ground. After the bud has set, the top is cut away and the young shoot trained to a lath stake and headed at about 33 inches. Budding is done both in the fall and in the spring and early summer. Some of the more rapid-growing trees will be large enough to set in orchard form at one year from the bud, but some will require two years. Often the slower-growing trees are the more desirable, having been budded from wood with heavy fruiting tendencies. In fact, a pair of calipers is a poor gauge of the value of an orange tree. Many fine large nursery trees produce but little fruit in after years. The selection of buds is a very important matter. Oranges vary and sport much more commonly than apples or pears and the greatest care and eternal vigilance is necessary in order to keep the nurseries free from undesirable sports. The worthless "Australian" or "hobo'.' trees which make up such a shockingly large proportion of many orchards are the result of ignorance or carelessness in selecting buds on the part of nurserymen whose only concern is to sell nursery stock.

Citrous nursery trees are usually dug and transported with a twenty- to forty-pound ball of earth about the roots inclosed in burlap. When set out, the cords are cut and the comers turned down but the sack is not removed, inasmuch as it quickly decays in the soil. Orange trees will grow just as well when dug with bare roots as when balled, provided the sun and dry desert air are not allowed to touch the moist roots even for a few minutes. There is the greatest difficulty in impressing laborers with the importance of this danger, which has led to the custom of balling trees and paying transportation charges on the extra soil as a precautionary measure. Balled trees retain then- leaves, while bare-root trees have the leaves removed when they are dug.

The prevailing custom in California is to plant the trees in orchard form in squares 22 by 22 feet or 22 by 24 feet, the former requiring ninety trees to the acre. Great care is used to keep the bud-union above the ground and free from the soil. Yucca or paraffined pasteboard trunk-protectors are almost universally used to prevent sunburn. Often the trees are planted out ahead of canal-construction and watered for a year or two from a tank wagon.

Soils and fertilizers.

The character of soil for orange-culture is not so important as its physical arrangement. If the soil is deep, fertile, well drained, anal free from layers or strata of a different physical make-up from the main body of the soil, for 5 or 6 feet in depth, it does not matter so much whether the soil is light sand, heavy adobe, loam, or disintegrated desert granite. Excellent orange orchards exist in all these types of soil. It ia more pleasant and convenient to cultivate a loam than an adobe, and it is easier to irrigate a loam than a light sand. These things should always be taken into account, but the successful growth of the trees depends more on the uniformity than upon the character of the soil. Upon shallow soils, trees will succeed for a while, but artificial feeding must be resorted to earlier. No soil less than 2 feet deep should be considered safe for oranges. Soils underlaid by hardpan, or layers of open gravel are apt to cause functional derangements of the nutrition of the trees. The ideal soil is a friable easily worked loam, 8 or more feet deep, growing gradually lighter in color and texture as the depth increases. This not only provides a large storehouse of plant-food but a great reservoir to hold water. Of the two most common conditions, it is much better to have a light topsoil over heavy clay subsoil than a heavy clay top- Boil over sand or gravel.

It is the custom to, plow the orchards once a year, usually in the spring at the time of turning under the green-manure crop. Throughout the spring and summer, the soil is clean cultivated to a depth of 4 to 8 inches. Thorough cultivation and the reestablishment of the dust mulch follows each irrigation during Bummer. For this work, either disc, spike-tooth cultivators, or spading harrows drawn by three or four horses are used. Orchard tractors are beginning to take the place of horses in the interior valleys. In some soils, the oft-repeated tramping of the horses causes the formation of a "plow-sole" which interferes with the downward course of the irrigating water. This may be broken up every second or third year by running a subsoil plow through the middles in such a way as to cut as few of the large roots as possible. Some growers have abandoned all tillage and cover the ground 8 or 10 inches deep with mulch. The trees do well under this system but the mulching material is expensive and the danger from fire during the dry season is very great.

California soils are, as a rule; noted for their low content of humus. It is imperative that the humus-content be increased and maintained by generous additions of organic matter. The chief source of humus is the vetch green-manure crop, but where the trees are large and shade the ground, the growth of vetch amounts to little, and other means must be resorted to. Large quantities of stable manure, grain, hay, lima- bean straw, and even alfalfa hay, have been used for this purpose, and of late attention has been called to the possibility of using kelp, which is plentiful along the Pacific coast. How to maintain a high humus- content in the soil is today one of the chief problems before the industry.

Commercial fertilizers are commonly used and in increasing amounts from the time the trees are five or six years old. There is probably more difference of opinion and diversity in practice in connection with the use of commercial fertilizers than with any other phase of the business. The amount of application runs from two to forty pounds to each tree, annually, depending upon its size and age. Some apply the fertilizer all at one time, just before the spring plowing, while some make two or three applications a year. California soils are usually high in potassium, and wherever the humus is high, this element is hardly needed. In many cases in which the soil is deep, rich and high in humus, an annual application of ten to fifteen pounds of ground phosphate rock to a tree, together with the vetch crop and five tons of alfalfa or bean straw to the acre every alternate year will be a satisfactory program. Orange trees are very susceptible to alkali. Where the soil contains .2 of 1 per cent of total salts, the trees begin to decline. A total salt- content of less than .1 of 1 per cent is usually considered safe. These figures will vary somewhat, however, according to the proportion of the different salts, which, taken together, are known as "alkali," some of which (such as sodium carbonate) are very injurious.

Irrigation.

On none of the citrous areas of California is the rainfall sufficient. Irrigation is practised in every orchard. For the most part, water is taken out of streams near the upper headwaters and conveyed by gravity through cement canals sometimes for hundreds of miles to the citrous orchards. Often the descending water generates electrical energy to be used in pumping additional supplies from wells. The water is distributed through steel or concrete pipe-lines and delivered at the upper end of the furrows. Usually the grower buys the water-right with the land and is assessed annually for the upkeep of the system serving him. The keys to the water gates are kept by a water-boss or "zanjero" who measures out to each grower his proper allotment. The amount of water required varies with the character of the soil and the age of the trees. Full- grown bearing trees require from 1 ordinary miner's inch continuous flow to 10 acres up to as much as an inch to 3 acres, depending on the rainfall and whether the soil is a heavy clay or an open sand or gravel. An irrigation is given every month or six weeks during the summer and less often in winter, according to the rains. In heavy soils, the water is run for three or four days at each irrigation in very small streams through four deep furrows to each tree row. The water is cut off when tests with a soil-tube show the soil to be soaked 5 feet deep. In very light porous soils, it is necessary to throw up ridges each way. leaving each tree in the center of a large basin. These basins are filled quickly with a large stream. It is only by the use of large, rapid streams that water may be conveyed across and distributed over such open and porous soils.

The common or spring vetch (Vicia sativa) is very commonly grown as a green-manure crop in southern California. It is planted in September and turned under in February before the trees start the spring growth. The seeds are large and germinate well and the vines suffer less from the trampling incident to harvest than some other green-manure plants. Canada field peas, Tangier peas, bur clover, fenugreek, and sour clover (Melilotus indica) are occasionally used in place of the vetch. In northern California, bur clover volunteers satisfactorily and is commonly used. Summer green- manure crops, such as cowpeas, are coming into use wherever there is sufficient cheap water available to supply both the trees and the peas during the dry hot months.

Pruning.

Orange trees are pruned somewhat differently according to the variety. The young Washington Navel tree should not be pruned for the first two or three years after being headed and set in the orchard. Especially if budded from the best type of wood, it may be depended upon to form a good head by itself. Suckers should of course be removed whenever they appear. The Valencia is a more rampant grower, and the young upright shoots are apt to grow too long before branching. They should be pinched back. In pruning old trees, the following rules are thought to embody the best practice: Remove suckers whenever and wherever they appear. Remove the too vigorous vertical shoots which tend to produce coarse fruit. Remove old brush of waning vitality. Thin the tops and, to some extent, the sides so as to allow proper airing and lighting of the interior foliage, thus encouraging the production of high quality, inside fruit. Remove all dead twigs from the fruiting brush. Navel trees rarely need propping, while Valencia trees, unless the limbs are kept short and stout by pinching, are apt to require a great deal of propping.

Harvesting.

California oranges are harvested the year round, the Navels, from November 1 to May 1; seedlings and miscellaneous varieties during May; and the Valencias, from June 1 to November 1, thus overlapping the next Navel crop. A ripe Navel will remain in prime condition on the tree for two months, a Valencia for six months or longer.

Oranges are picked with extraordinary care to prevent injury. They are never pulled, but are clipped flush with the "button" with round-pointed clippers. The fruit is collected in canvas bags carried by the picker, which open at the bottom and allow the fruit to slide gently into wooden lug-boxes. The unbroken skin of an orange is very resistant to decay, but the least abrasion, no matter how slight, whether caused by withdrawing the orange carelessly from the branches, or by the finger-nails, or by placing the fruit in boxes in the bottom of which a few grains of sand or dirt have fallen, is almost sure to become inoculated with spores of decay fungi, such as the blue-mold or the soft-rot. Many growers do not take all the fruit from the trees at one picking, but pick the lower fruit first, thus getting it out of the way of frosts which are most severe near the ground; and brown-rot, which is splashed up from the soil by winter rains; and also to relieve the strain on the branches. The standard car is made up of a certain proportion of the different sizes, hence it is customary to go over those remaining on the trees, selecting certain sizes to meet the daily demands at the packing-house. Formerly, picking was paid for by the oox, but the tremendous losses from the decay resulting from rapid work has brought about a complete change to day labor.

The lug-boxes of fruit are hauled to the packinghouse on spring wagons or auto trucks and weighed in. The fruit is then stored in the same boxes from one to five days, in order that the rind may shrink and the surface cells become less turgid and subject to abrasion. In this condition, oranges will stand a large amount of handling and tumbling about in the padded machines without injury. The fruit is first run through a brasher which removes dust and dirt. In case there is smut from scale insects or soot from oil-pots, they are put through a washing machine containing a 1/50 of 1 per cent solution of copper sulfate in water. The fruit next travels on belts before the graders who, considering color, shape, smoothness and blemishes, sort the salable fruit into three grades, standard, choice, and fancy. Each one of these grades, after being weighed on automatic scales, passes through a separate sizing machine which delivers each of the eight or ten sizes into a separate, heavily- padded canvas bin. The packers, mostly women, wrap each fruit in printed absorbent tissue paper and place it in the box with great dexterity and skill, averaging sixty boxes a day. A very high pack is customary, and after the covers are forced on and nailed, the boxes are delivered by automatic carriers to the car or the pre- cooling room. One hundred lug-boxes will usually pack put about sixty packed boxes. The cars vary in capacity, depending on whether they are provided with collapsible ice-bunkers. The standard car contains 384 boxes loaded two tiers on end and six rows wide and including not more than 10 per cent of the following sizes, 96, 112, 250, and not over 20 per cent of the 126 size. The remainder of the car may be divided among the 150, 176, 200 and 216 sizes. Cars other than standard are discounted on the market according to the number of the off sizes they contain. The freight is figured on an estimated weight of seventy-two pounds to the box. In summer about five tons of ice are placed in the bunkers after loading and the cars are re-iced in transit as needed, unless they have been pre-cooled, in which case the initial icing suffices. The average time between San Bernardino where the Santa Fe trains are made up, or Colton where the Southern Pacific trains are made up, and New York is about fourteen days. The packing-houses vary in capacity up to twenty carloads a day. In no other fruit industry have the appliances for handling the fruit in the packing-house been so highly developed.
While a few of the larger growers still look after the sales of their own fruit, and a few sell the fruit on the trees to various fruit companies and commission men, the larger part turn their fruit over to a large and very strong cooperative organization of growers known as the California Fruit-Growers' Exchange. This organization began business in 1895 but was reorganized in 1905. In 1915, the Exchange handled about 62 per cent of all the citrous fruits shipped out of the state. The Exchange has greatly increased the consumption of citrous fruits by advertising and better distribution. The business of the Exchange is to "provide for the marketing of all the citrous fruit of members at the lowest possible cost under uniform methods, and in a manner to secure to each grower the certain marketing of his fruit and the full average price to be obtained in the market for the entire season. Much of the fertilizer and other supplies used in the industry are secured through a cooperative store known as the Growers' Supply Company. In 1914 this store did a business of $3,319,062.04 at an operating expense to the members of ¾ of 1 per cent on each dollar of business transacted.

Varieties.

A large list of varieties of oranges has been tested out under California conditions, but the law of "the survival of the fittest" has worked rapidly and today two varieties dominate the field, viz., the Washington Navel and the Valencia Late. While old orchards of other varieties are still producing considerable quantities of fruit, new plantings are now practically limited to these two varieties. The Washington Navel originated at Bahia, Brazil, in the early part of the nineteenth century and was introduced into California by William Saunders, of the Department of Agriculture, in 1870, through Mrs. L. C. Tibbet. of Riverside. This variety now known as the "king of oranges" rapidly gained in popularity until at the present time nearly 80,000 acres of it are planted. It owes it success to the following characteristics: fruit large, smooth, with fine color and flavor, seedless, a splendid shipper, and having a navel mark which serves on the market as a trade-mark. The tree is semi-dwarf, precocious, prolific, and a regular bearer. The Navel is prone to sport and much care should be used in cutting Dud wood. The Thomson Improved is the best example of a desirable sport from the Navel. The Navel reaches its highest development in the interior valleys.
The Valencia Late originated in the Azores and was introduced into the United States in 1870 by S. B. Parsons, of Lone Island, through Thomas Rivers, of England. The Valencia reaches its highest development along the coast. It is a poorer orange than the Navel, but it is the only variety which remains on the trees in good condition until late fall or early winter. Other varieties still marketed to some extent from old groves are Mediterranean Sweet, Paper Rind, Jaffa, Ruby Blood, and
Seedlings.

Insects and diseases.

The following insect pests occur in the California citrous orchards: the black scale, red scale, yellow scale, purple scale, cottony cushion scale, soft brown scale, citricola scale, hemispherical scale, greedy scale, oleander scale, citrus mealy-bug, red-spiders, silver mite, thrips, aphis, orange tortrix, Fuller's rose beetle, and a few others. More than $500,000 are expended in southern California each year combating the scale insects. The cottony cushion is controlled by a predaceous beetle, but the other scales are controlled by fumigation with hydrocyanic acid gas under movable tents made especially for the purpose. The cost of fumigating a medium-sized tree averages about 35 cents and the work must usually be repeated every second year. Spraying citrous trees for scale insects is almost obsolete in California. The black and purple scales are most damaging along the coast, while the red and yellow are severe in the interior valleys as well as the coast country. In Tulare County, a species of thrips has done much damage by scarring the fruit and distorting the leaves. The Tortrix worm is the only insect which burrows into the orange.

Gum disease is the most serious fungous disease of the tree in California, while armillaria root-rot, maldi-gomma, trunk-rot (Schizophyllum), twig-blight (Sclerotinia), wither-tip (Colletotrichum), and damp-off fungi are minor troubles. Physiological diseases of the tree include squamosis or scaly bark, exanthema, chlorosis, mottled-leaf, die-back, and leaf-gumming. Fungous diseases of the fruit are: brown-rot (Pythiacystis citrophthora), blue-mold (Penicillium italicum), green- mold (Penicillium digitatum), gray-mold (Botrytis vulgaris), sooty-mold (Melilola Camelliae), cottony-mold (Sclerotinia sp.), gray scurf and navel end-rot (Alternaria citri).

Physiological defects of the fruit are: sunburn, frost, off-bloom, exanthema, corrugations, bottle-neck, fingers, yellow-spot, double navel, brown-spot, stem-end spot, cracks, puffs, splits, peteca, red-blotch, and others.

Control measures, more or less satisfactory, have been worked out for the larger number of insects and diseases prevalent in the state.

Protection against frost.

The different kinds of citrous fruits vary in the amount of cold they will endure without injury. The amount of injury done by a given degree of cold upon a given variety will vary, also depending upon the degree of dormancy, the state of the weather just preceding and just after the freeze and the length of time the cold lasts. Many thousand acres of land in California are well suited for growing citrous fruits except for the fact that they are subject to occasional frosts which destroy the crop and sometimes injure the trees. It is natural, therefore, that under such conditions, the citrous growers of California should be pioneers in the work of frost-protection. A great deal of experimenting has been done along the line of diminishing the radiation of heat and by raising the dew-point. It has been demonstrated, however, that the most practicable and satisfactory method of fighting frost is by adding heat directly to the trees through the agency of fires distributed throughout the orchard. Some ten or more types of patent orchard-heaters are now on the market, but the kind the citrous growers find most satisfactory is a round sheet-iron pot of three or five gallons capacity fitted for burning low-grade distillate or crude-oil. The pot should be provided with a suitable cover to keep out the rain and a draught by which the size of the flame may be regulated to suit the degree of cold to be overcome. The less smoke is produced, the better. The smudge commonly used by deciduous fruit-growers is objected to on the ground that the fruit is covered with soot and it is both expensive and damaging to the keeping quality of the fruit to clean it properly. Citrous growers prefer to generate the additional amount of heat necessary to compensate for the lack of smoke.

Many small fires are better than a few large ones. The heaters are usually placed one to each tree or about ninety to the acre throughout the orchard with an extra row along the windward sides. Each ranch should be provided with an oil-reservoir which will hold enough oil to fill all the heaters on the ranch five or six times. When properly equipped with heaters, the temperature of an orchard can be maintained during the night at 10°F. above that of the surrounding country.

The effects of frost on oranges appear as a spotting of the skin and a softening of the outward side of exposed fruits. The juice disappears, leaving the interior dry and pithy. Slightly frosted oranges occasionally develop a very bitter taste. Fruit from the same trees will often grade all the way from sound to badly frosted, depending on the position the fruit occupied on the tree. The method of separating sound from frozen fruit is based on specific gravity.

The machine consists of an oblong tank through which water may be made to circulate at definite speeds by a small propeller. The oranges roll down an incline and drop into the moving water from a height of a foot or more. The light frosted oranges bob up to the surface quickly, while the sound, heavy fruit is slower to rise. Meanwhile the oranges have been carried along by the current, the sound fruit passing under, and being caught by a horizontal wire screen, while the light fruit is carried along above it. At the farther end of the tank the two grades are lifted by conveyors and delivered to separate bins. By adjusting the position of the screen and the rate of flow of the water, any degree of separation desired may be secured.

By-products.

The manufacture of citrous oils, perfumes, citrate of lime, and other by-products has never been developed commercially in California, although at present much experimenting is being done in an effort to encourage such an industry, which is badly needed. At present, the culls mostly go to waste or are applied to the land as fertilizer. The manufacture of marmalade and citrate of lime has been attempted but has not as yet assumed importance.
}}

{{Inc|
Citrus sinensis Osbeck (C. Aurantium var. sinensis, Linn. C. Aurantium, Lour, et Auct., not Linn.). Common or Sweet Orange. A medium-sized tree, with a rounded top and regular branches: spines, when present, slender, flexible, rather blunt: lvs. medium-sized, rounded at the base, pointed at the apex; petiole narrowly winged, articulated both with the blade and the twig: fls. medium-sized, smaller than those of the sour orange, white in the bud; petals white on both surfaces; stamens 20-25; ovary subglobose, clearly delimited from the deciduous style: fr. sub- globose or oval, pith solid, pulp sweet, membranes not bitter in taste, segms. 10-12 or 13 in number; seeds cuneate-ovoid with rugose margined plane surfaces, white inside.—The common or sweet orange is widely cult, in all the tropical and subtropical regions of the world. It is rather tender, not so hardy as the sour or Seville orange, but much more cold-resistant than the lemon or lime. A very few orange trees occur in a semi- wild state in S. Fla. Sweet oranges were doubtless intro. into Fla. by the Spaniards nearly four centuries ago and, as they were prop, by seeds until within the last half-century, many local varieties have arisen there. Orange-culture has reached its highest development in S. Calif., where it constitutes one of the most important agricultural industries. Fla. is second only to Calif. in the extent and value of the orange groves, while some oranges arc grown in favored spots in La., Texas, and Ariz.—Oranges are the best known and probably the most highly esteemed dessert fr. A few are used in cooking and the peel is sometimes candied. An essential oil is also pressed from the peel. The sweet orange is commonly used as a stock on which to graft other species of citrous frs. It grows well on light well-drained loam or sandy loam soil. On heavy soil it is subject to the mal di gomma or foot- rot. Very many varieties are in cult. Some of the principal sorts grown in the U. S. are listed here. (1) Florida seedlings— varieties originated in Fla. as a result of prop, oranges from seed, mostly strong-growing trees: Parson Brown. Frs. medium-sized, very early. Pineapple. Frs. medium or large, very juicy; seeds rather numerous: midseason: tree a strong grower. Homosassa. Frs. medium-sized, very juicy: a good bearer and keeper: tree nearly thornless. Madam Vinous. Frs. medium or large; pulp coarse-grained, juicy; midseason. Nonpareil. Frs. rather large, flattened; pulp fine-grained, juicy: tree vigorous. Also Arcadia, Summit, Foster, Hick, Magnum Bonum, May, Old Vini. Osceola, Stark, Whittaker, and very many others of the same general type. (2) Florida mutations or hybrids—new sorts originated in Fla., usually differing in some striking way from the old Fla. seedling ranges, perhaps through hybridization with foreign varieties. Boone (Boone's Early). Frs. medium size, strongly oval or oblong, very juicy, very late, keeping well on the tree: lvs. with petioles varying in width. Lue Gim Gong. Frs. oval, juicy, ripening very late and holding very well on the tree, even until late summer. A variety newly intro. into cult. Drake Star. A rare variety with variegated foliage; usually a poor bearer but sometimes bearing a good crop of excellent fr. (3) Mediterranean varieties, largely intro. into Fla. by Sanford and Lyman Phelps, about 30-40 years ago: Ruby. Frs. small or medium-sized; peel red-orange; pulp streaked with red when fully ripe, juicy; seeds rather few: rather late: tree vigorous, nearly thornless, prolific. St. Michael. Frs. medium-sized, oblong, red-blotched when ripe; flesh wine-red; seeds few; rather early. Jaffa. Frs. large, oblong, juicy; seeds few. Possibly not the same as the celebrated orange of Jaffa, Palestine. Mediterranean Sweet. Frs. large, oval, juicy, late: tree nearly thornless. Majorca. Frs. round or slightly flattened, juicy: rather late. Hart (Hart's Tardiff). Frs. round or slightly oval, medium to large size, juicy; seeds few; ripens very late: similar to the next and thought by some to be identical. Valencia (Valencia Late). Frs. medium to large, oval or rounded, juicy, nearly seedless, very late. A prolific variety, largely grown in Calif. and held in cold storage until early autumn. There are many other Medit. varieties of nearly or quite as much value as some of the above, such as, Centennial, Du Roi, Joppa, Paper Rind, Prata, Saul Blood, St. Michael (Blood), etc.—The navel oranges all show a second smaller more or less included fr. formed at the tip of the main fr. Many varieties are of foreign origin. Washington (Bahia, Washington Navel). Fr. large, rounded slightly, pointed at apex; flesh firm, juicy; skin very tough; seedless: early midseason. The most famous variety of oranges intro. from Bahia, Brazil, by Wm. Saunders of the U. S. Dept. of Agric. in 1870. Its cult. has steadily extended in Calif. until it is the principal variety grown there. It does not succeed well in Fla. Thompson (Thompson's Improved Navel). A smooth-skinned hard-fleshed variety found by A. D. Shamel to arise as a mutation from the preceding, to which it is inferior in quality though better in appearance. Australian. Frs. large, coarse: tree vigorous, but a shy bearer. Also found by Shamel as a variation of the Washington Navel (Bahia). Surprise. Fr. medium-sized, rounded or even slightly flattened, juicy, early, seedless. A variety originated by E. S. Hubbard, of Fla. Double Imperial. Fr. small or medium-sized, navel hidden: pulp firm; seeds few or none. A Brazilian variety, said to fruit well in Fla. when budded on trifoliate orange stock. There are many other varieties of navel oranges occasionally grown on a commercial scale. In Calif., among others, Golden Nugget and Navelencia; in Fla., Egyptian, Melitensis, and Sustain are known. There are doubtless many more navel oranges which should be tested. See Orange. Hybrids: Citranges are hardy hybrids between the common sweet orange and the trifoliate orange, Poncirus trifoliata. The principal varieties are the Rusk, Morton, Colman, Savage, Cunningham and Saunders. See description under Citrange.{{SCH}}
}}

==References==
{{reflist}}
* McPhee, John. ''Oranges'' (1966) - focuses on Florida groves.
* Sackman, Douglas Cazaux. ''Orange Empire: California and the Fruits of Eden'' (2005) comprehensive, multidimensional history of citrus industry in California
* Train, John. ''Oranges'' (2006)

==See also==

==External links==

__NOTOC__

Green

2012-08-27T13:59:13Z

Raffi:

{{#ask: [[Category:Plant]]
| ?Flowers
| ?Flower season
| ?Features
| ?Growth habit
| ?Lifespan
| ?Min zone
}}

Yellow

2012-08-27T13:58:54Z

Raffi:

{{#ask: [[Category:Plant]]
| ?Flowers
| ?Flower season
| ?Features
| ?Growth habit
| ?Lifespan
| ?Min zone
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Orange

2012-08-27T13:57:25Z

Raffi: moved Orange to Orange (fruit tree)

Red

2012-08-27T13:56:27Z

Raffi:

{{#ask: [[Category:Plant]]
| ?Flowers
| ?Flower season
| ?Features
| ?Growth habit
| ?Lifespan
| ?Min zone
}}

Property:Flowers

2012-08-27T13:51:37Z

Raffi:

This is a property of type [[Has type::Page]].

The allowed values for this property are:
* [[Allows value::red]]
* [[Allows value::orange]]
* [[Allows value::yellow]]
* [[Allows value::green]]
* [[Allows value::blue]]
* [[Allows value::purple]]
* [[Allows value::brown]]
* [[Allows value::black]]
* [[Allows value::multicolored]]
* [[Allows value::pink]]
* [[Allows value::white]]
* [[Allows value::single]]
* [[Allows value::double]]
* [[Allows value::spotted]]
* [[Allows value::everblooming]]

Property:Features

2012-08-27T13:49:31Z

Raffi:

This is a property of type [[Has type::Page]].

The allowed values for this property are:
* [[Allows value::evergreen]]
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* [[Allows value::fall color]]
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Property:Growth habit

2012-08-27T13:48:34Z

Raffi: Undo revision 135054 by Raffi (talk)

This is a property of type [[Has type::String]].

The allowed values for this property are:
* [[Allows value::tree]]
* [[Allows value::shrub]]
* [[Allows value::herbaceous]]
* [[Allows value::vine-climber]]
* [[Allows value::bulbous]]
* [[Allows value::palm-cycad]]
* [[Allows value::fern]]
* [[Allows value::grass]]
* [[Allows value::bamboo]]
* [[Allows value::aquatic]]
* [[Allows value::orchid]]
* [[Allows value::bromeliad]]
* [[Allows value::cacti-succulent]]

Property:Growth habit

2012-08-27T13:48:01Z

Raffi:

This is a property of type [[Has type::Page]].

The allowed values for this property are:
* [[Allows value::tree]]
* [[Allows value::shrub]]
* [[Allows value::herbaceous]]
* [[Allows value::vine-climber]]
* [[Allows value::bulbous]]
* [[Allows value::palm-cycad]]
* [[Allows value::fern]]
* [[Allows value::grass]]
* [[Allows value::bamboo]]
* [[Allows value::aquatic]]
* [[Allows value::orchid]]
* [[Allows value::bromeliad]]
* [[Allows value::cacti-succulent]]

Template:Plantbox

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<noinclude>
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{| style="background: Beige; position:relative; margin: 0 0 0.5em 1em; border-collapse: collapse; float:left; clear:right; width:800px;" border="1" cellpadding="0"
|- style="text-align:center; width:180px;"
! style="background-color: IndianRed; text-align: center;" |  {{{genus|}}} {{{species|}}} subsp. {{{subspecies|}}} var. {{{cultivar|}}}
| style="background-color: IndianRed; text-align: left; width:600px;" colspan=2 | ''' {{#arraymap:{{{common_name|}}}|,|x|[[Common name::x]]}}'''
|- class{{{image|}}}="hiddenStructure"
| style="cellpadding=0 text-align: center;" rowspan=2| [[Image:{{{image|}}}|{{{image_width|}}}px|{{{image_caption|}}}|link=]]
|
{| style="margin:0 auto; text-align:left; background:none;" cellpadding="2"
|-class{{{habit|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! {{#ask:searchlabel=Habit|[[Category:Plant]]|[[Growth habit::+]]| ?Growth_habit| limit=0}}:
|
| [[Growth habit::{{{habit|}}}]][[Category:{{{habit|}}}]]
|-class{{{max_height|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Height:
| ⇕
| [[Min height::{{{min_height|}}}]] to [[Max height::{{{max_height|}}}]]
|-class{{{max_width|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Width:
| ⇔
| [[Min width::{{{min_width|}}}]] to [[Max width::{{{max_width|}}}]]

|-class="hiddenStructure"
!
| [[Min height box::{{{Min ht box|}}}]][[Min height metric::{{{Min ht metric|}}}]][[Max height box::{{{Max ht box|}}}]][[Max height metric::{{{Max ht metric|}}}]]
| [[Min width box::{{{Min wd box|}}}]][[Min width metric::{{{Min wd metric|}}}]][[Max width box::{{{Max wd box|}}}]][[Max width metric::{{{Max wd metric|}}}]]
|-class{{{Max ht box|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Height:
| ⇕
| [[Min height::{{{Min ht box|}}} {{{Min ht metric|}}}]] to [[Max height::{{{Max ht box|}}} {{{Max ht metric|}}}]]
|-class{{{Max wd box|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Width:
| ⇔
| [[Min width::{{{Min wd box|}}} {{{Min wd metric|}}}]] to [[Max width::{{{Max wd box|}}} {{{Max wd metric|}}}]]

|- class{{{lifespan|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! {{#ask:searchlabel=Lifespan|[[Category:Plant]]|[[Lifespan::+]]| ?Lifespan| limit=0}}:
| ⌛
| {{#arraymap:{{{lifespan|}}}|,|x|[[Lifespan::x]]}}
|- class{{{origin|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Origin:
| ✈
| [[Origin::{{{origin|}}}]]
|- class{{{poisonous|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Poisonous:
| ☠
| [[Poisonous::{{{poisonous|}}}]]
|- class{{{flower_season|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Bloom:
| ❀
| {{#arraymap:{{{flower_season|}}}|,|x|[[Flower season::x]]}}
|} 
|
{| style="margin:0 auto; text-align:left; background:none;" cellpadding="2"
|- class{{{exposure|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! {{#ask:searchlabel=Exposure|[[Category:Plant]]|[[Exposure::+]]| ?Exposure| limit=0}}:
| ☼
| {{#arraymap:{{{exposure|}}}|,|y|[[Exposure::y]]}}
|- class{{{water|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! {{#ask:searchlabel=Water|[[Category:Plant]]|[[Water::+]]| ?Water| limit=0}}:
| ◍
| {{#arraymap:{{{water|}}}|,|x|[[Water::x]]}}
|- class{{{features|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Features:
| ✓
| {{#arraymap:{{{features|}}}|,|x|[[Features::x]]}}
|- class="hiddenStructure"
! Hidden fields, interally pass variables to right place
| [[Min Temp Num::{{{Min Temp Num|}}}| ]]
| [[Temp Metric::{{{Temp Metric|}}}| ]]
|- class{{{Min Temp Num|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Minimum Temp:
| ☃
| [[Temp degree::{{{Min Temp Num|}}}{{{Temp Metric|}}}]]
|- class{{{min_zone|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! USDA Zones:
|
| [[Min zone::{{{min_zone|}}}]] to [[Max zone::{{{max_zone|}}}]]
|- class{{{sunset_zones|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Sunset Zones:
|
| [[Sunset zones::{{{sunset_zones|}}}]]
|- class{{{flowers|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Flower features:
| ❀
| {{#arraymap:{{{flowers|}}}|,|x|[[Flowers::x]]}}
|} 
|-
| colspan=2 | 
{| style="margin:0 auto; text-align:left; background:none;" cellpadding="2"
| class="hiddenStructure{{{familia|}}}" | [[{{{familia|}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{genus|}}}" | [[{{{genus|}}}]] 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{species|}}}" | {{{species|}}} 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subspecies|}}}" | {{{subspecies|}}} 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{cultivar|}}}" | var. {{{cultivar|}}} 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{taxo_author|}}}" | , {{{taxo_author|}}} 
|} 
 {{#arraymap:{{{jumpin|}}}|,|x|[[Jump in::x]]}}
|}
[[Category:Plant]]
 
</includeonly>

Template:SPlantbox

2012-07-03T01:35:36Z

Raffi: link blank photo to upload page

<noinclude>
This is the 'SPlantbox' template.

Edit the page to see the template text.
</noinclude><includeonly>
{| style="background: Beige; position:relative; margin: 0 0 0.5em 1em; border-collapse: collapse; float:left; clear:right; width:800px;" border="1" cellpadding="0"
|- style="text-align:center; width:180px;"
! style="background-color: IndianRed; text-align: center;" |  {{{genus|}}} {{{species|}}} subsp. {{{subspecies|}}} var. {{{cultivar|}}}
| style="background-color: IndianRed; text-align: left; width:600px;" colspan=2 | ''' {{#arraymap:{{{common_name|}}}|,|x|[[Common name::x]]}}'''
|- class{{{image|}}}="hiddenStructure"
| style="cellpadding=0 text-align: center;" rowspan=2| [[Image:{{{image|}}}|{{{image_width|}}}px|{{{image_caption|}}}|link=[[Special:Upload]]]]
|
{| style="margin:0 auto; text-align:left; background:none;" cellpadding="2"
|-class{{{habit|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! {{#ask:searchlabel=Habit|[[Category:Plant]]|[[Growth habit::+]]| ?Growth_habit| limit=0}}:
|
| [[Growth habit::{{{habit|}}}]][[Category:{{{habit|}}}]]
|-class{{{max_height|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Height:
| ⇕
| [[Min height::{{{min_height|}}}]] to [[Max height::{{{max_height|}}}]]
|-class{{{max_width|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Width:
| ⇔
| [[Min width::{{{min_width|}}}]] to [[Max width::{{{max_width|}}}]]

|-class="hiddenStructure"
!
| [[Min height box::{{{Min ht box|}}}]][[Min height metric::{{{Min ht metric|}}}]][[Max height box::{{{Max ht box|}}}]][[Max height metric::{{{Max ht metric|}}}]]
| [[Min width box::{{{Min wd box|}}}]][[Min width metric::{{{Min wd metric|}}}]][[Max width box::{{{Max wd box|}}}]][[Max width metric::{{{Max wd metric|}}}]]
|-class{{{Max ht box|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Height:
| ⇕
| [[Min height::{{{Min ht box|}}} {{{Min ht metric|}}}]] to [[Max height::{{{Max ht box|}}} {{{Max ht metric|}}}]]
|-class{{{Max wd box|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Width:
| ⇔
| [[Min width::{{{Min wd box|}}} {{{Min wd metric|}}}]] to [[Max width::{{{Max wd box|}}} {{{Max wd metric|}}}]]

|- class{{{lifespan|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! {{#ask:searchlabel=Lifespan|[[Category:Plant]]|[[Lifespan::+]]| ?Lifespan| limit=0}}:
| ⌛
| {{#arraymap:{{{lifespan|}}}|,|x|[[Lifespan::x]]}}
|- class{{{origin|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Origin:
| ✈
| [[Origin::{{{origin|}}}]]
|- class{{{poisonous|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Poisonous:
| ☠
| [[Poisonous::{{{poisonous|}}}]]
|- class{{{flower_season|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Bloom:
| ❀
| {{#arraymap:{{{flower_season|}}}|,|x|[[Flower season::x]]}}
|} 
|
{| style="margin:0 auto; text-align:left; background:none;" cellpadding="2"
|- class{{{exposure|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! {{#ask:searchlabel=Exposure|[[Category:Plant]]|[[Exposure::+]]| ?Exposure| limit=0}}:
| ☼
| {{#arraymap:{{{exposure|}}}|,|y|[[Exposure::y]]}}
|- class{{{water|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! {{#ask:searchlabel=Water|[[Category:Plant]]|[[Water::+]]| ?Water| limit=0}}:
| ◍
| {{#arraymap:{{{water|}}}|,|x|[[Water::x]]}}
|- class{{{features|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Features:
| ✓
| {{#arraymap:{{{features|}}}|,|x|[[Features::x]]}}
|- class="hiddenStructure"
! Hidden fields, interally pass variables to right place
| [[Min Temp Num::{{{Min Temp Num|}}}| ]]
| [[Temp Metric::{{{Temp Metric|}}}| ]]
|- class{{{Min Temp Num|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Minimum Temp:
| ☃
| [[Temp degree::{{{Min Temp Num|}}}{{{Temp Metric|}}}]]
|- class{{{min_zone|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! USDA Zones:
|
| [[Min zone::{{{min_zone|}}}]] to [[Max zone::{{{max_zone|}}}]]
|- class{{{sunset_zones|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Sunset Zones:
|
| [[Sunset zones::{{{sunset_zones|}}}]]
|- class{{{flowers|}}}="hiddenStructure"
! Flower features:
| ❀
| {{#arraymap:{{{flowers|}}}|,|x|[[Flowers::x]]}}
|} 
|-
| colspan=2 | 
{| style="margin:0 auto; text-align:left; background:none;" cellpadding="2"
| class="hiddenStructure{{{familia|}}}" | [[{{{familia|}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{genus|}}}" | [[{{{genus|}}}]] 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{species|}}}" | {{{species|}}} 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subspecies|}}}" | {{{subspecies|}}} 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{cultivar|}}}" | var. {{{cultivar|}}} 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{taxo_author|}}}" | , {{{taxo_author|}}} 
|} 
 {{#arraymap:{{{jumpin|}}}|,|x|[[Jump in::x]]}}
|}
[[Category:Plant]]
 
</includeonly>

Template:Plantbox

2012-07-03T01:33:38Z

Raffi: remove link altogether

{| style="background: Beige; position:relative; margin: 0 0 0.5em 1em; border-collapse: collapse; float:left; clear:right; width:800px;" border="1" cellpadding="0"
|- style="text-align:center; width:200px;"
! style="background-color: {{{color}}}; text-align: center;" | <div class="hiddenStructure{{{name|}}}"> {{{name}}}</div> <div class="hiddenStructure{{{latin_name|}}}">{{{latin_name}}}</div>
| style="background-color: {{{color}}}; text-align: left; width:600px;" colspan=2 | <div class="hiddenStructure{{{common_names|}}}"> '''{{{common_names}}}'''</div>
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{image|}}}"
| style="cellpadding=0 text-align: center;" rowspan=2| [[Image:{{{image}}}|{{{image_width|200px}}}|{{{image_caption|}}}|link=]]
|
{| style="margin:0 auto; text-align:left; background:none;" cellpadding="2"
|-class="hiddenStructure{{{growth_habit|}}}"
! Habit:
|
| {{{growth_habit}}}
|-class="hiddenStructure{{{high|}}}"
! Height:
| ⇕
| {{{high}}}
|-class="hiddenStructure{{{wide|}}}"
! Width:
| ⇔
| {{{wide}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{lifespan|}}}"
! Lifespan:
| ⌛
| {{{lifespan}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{origin|}}}"
! Origin:
| ✈
| {{{origin}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{poisonous|}}}"
! Poisonous:
| ☠
| {{{poisonous}}}
|} 
|
{| style="margin:0 auto; text-align:left; background:none;" cellpadding="2"
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{exposure|}}}"
! Exposure:
| ☼
| {{{exposure}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{water|}}}"
! Water:
| ◍
| {{{water}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{features|}}}"
! Features:
| ✓
| {{{features}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{hardiness|}}}"
! Hardiness:
| ☃
| {{{hardiness}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{bloom|}}}"
! Bloom:
| ❀
| {{{bloom}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{usda_zones|}}}"
! USDA Zones:
|
| {{{usda_zones}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{sunset_zones|}}}"
! Sunset Zones:
|
| {{{sunset_zones}}}
|} 
|-
| colspan=2 | 
{| style="margin:0 auto; text-align:left; background:none;" cellpadding="2"
| class="hiddenStructure{{{domain|}}}" | [[{{{domain}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{superregnum|}}}" | [[{{{superregnum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{regnum|}}}" | [[{{{regnum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subregnum|}}}" | [[{{{subregnum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{superdivisio|}}}" | [[{{{superdivisio}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{superphylum|}}}" | [[{{{superphylum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{divisio|}}}" | [[{{{divisio}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{phylum|}}}" | [[{{{phylum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subdivisio|}}}" | [[{{{subdivisio}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subphylum|}}}" | [[{{{subphylum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{infraphylum|}}}" | [[{{{infraphylum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{microphylum|}}}" | [[{{{microphylum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{nanophylum|}}}" | [[{{{nanophylum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{superclassis|}}}" | [[{{{superclassis}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{classis|}}}" | [[{{{classis}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subclassis|}}}" | [[{{{subclassis}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{infraclassis|}}}" | [[{{{infraclassis}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{superordo|}}}" | [[{{{superordo}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{ordo|}}}" | [[{{{ordo}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subordo|}}}" | [[{{{subordo}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{infraordo|}}}" | [[{{{infraordo}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{superfamilia|}}}" | [[{{{superfamilia}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{familia|}}}" | [[{{{familia}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subfamilia|}}}" | [[{{{subfamilia}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{supertribus|}}}" | [[{{{supertribus}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{tribus|}}}" | [[{{{tribus}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subtribus|}}}" | [[{{{subtribus}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{genus|}}}" | [[{{{genus}}}]] 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subgenus|}}}" | {{{subgenus}}} 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{sectio|}}}" | {{{sectio}}} 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{series|}}}" | {{{series}}} 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{species|}}}" | {{{species}}} 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subspecies|}}}" | {{{subspecies}}} 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{cultivar|}}}" | var. {{{cultivar}}} 
|} 
|}
 
<noinclude>

==About this template==
This template is adopted and significantly changed from an archived Wikipedia version. It makes life easy when transferring info here, while also making it easy to add addition useful gardening information.

Variables and typical classifications:
* common_names = Rose, Apple, etc
* growth_habit = Tree, Vine, Bush, Groundcover, Bulbous
* high = How high does the plant grow (in metric and english)
* wide = How wide does the plant grown (in metric and english)
* lifespan = Annual, Perennial, Biennial
* origin = what country/region is it native to, or is it of garden origin
* exposure = Full sun, Part shade/Part sun, Shade
* features = Naturalizes, fruit, veg, flowers, fragrance, foliage
* poisonous = Yes (if poisonous) or else leave this out
* hardiness = Hardy (ie. survives freezing winters), Frost tender (frost kills it), Tender
* bloom = Late Spring to Fall (Seasons plant blooms - if it is grown for flowers)
* usda_zones = 1-11 (see http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html )
* sunset_zones = 1-45 (see http://www.sunset.com/sunset/garden/article/1,20633,845218,00.html )

==Copy paste the following and fill out==
{{Plantbox
| color = IndianRed 
| name = ''latin name'' 
| image = Pink_petunias.jpg 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = Petunias 
| common_names = 
| growth_habit = 
| high = 
| wide = 
| lifespan = 
| poisonous = 
| origin = 
| exposure = 
| water = 
| features = 
| poisonous = 
| hardiness = 
| bloom = 
| usda_zones = 
| sunset_zones = 
}}

</noinclude>

Template:Plantbox

2012-07-03T01:31:28Z

Raffi: changing link direct to upload page

{| style="background: Beige; position:relative; margin: 0 0 0.5em 1em; border-collapse: collapse; float:left; clear:right; width:800px;" border="1" cellpadding="0"
|- style="text-align:center; width:200px;"
! style="background-color: {{{color}}}; text-align: center;" | <div class="hiddenStructure{{{name|}}}"> {{{name}}}</div> <div class="hiddenStructure{{{latin_name|}}}">{{{latin_name}}}</div>
| style="background-color: {{{color}}}; text-align: left; width:600px;" colspan=2 | <div class="hiddenStructure{{{common_names|}}}"> '''{{{common_names}}}'''</div>
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{image|}}}"
| style="cellpadding=0 text-align: center;" rowspan=2| [[Image:{{{image}}}|{{{image_width|200px}}}|{{{image_caption|}}}|link=[[Special:Upload]] ]]
|
{| style="margin:0 auto; text-align:left; background:none;" cellpadding="2"
|-class="hiddenStructure{{{growth_habit|}}}"
! Habit:
|
| {{{growth_habit}}}
|-class="hiddenStructure{{{high|}}}"
! Height:
| ⇕
| {{{high}}}
|-class="hiddenStructure{{{wide|}}}"
! Width:
| ⇔
| {{{wide}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{lifespan|}}}"
! Lifespan:
| ⌛
| {{{lifespan}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{origin|}}}"
! Origin:
| ✈
| {{{origin}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{poisonous|}}}"
! Poisonous:
| ☠
| {{{poisonous}}}
|} 
|
{| style="margin:0 auto; text-align:left; background:none;" cellpadding="2"
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{exposure|}}}"
! Exposure:
| ☼
| {{{exposure}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{water|}}}"
! Water:
| ◍
| {{{water}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{features|}}}"
! Features:
| ✓
| {{{features}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{hardiness|}}}"
! Hardiness:
| ☃
| {{{hardiness}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{bloom|}}}"
! Bloom:
| ❀
| {{{bloom}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{usda_zones|}}}"
! USDA Zones:
|
| {{{usda_zones}}}
|- class="hiddenStructure{{{sunset_zones|}}}"
! Sunset Zones:
|
| {{{sunset_zones}}}
|} 
|-
| colspan=2 | 
{| style="margin:0 auto; text-align:left; background:none;" cellpadding="2"
| class="hiddenStructure{{{domain|}}}" | [[{{{domain}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{superregnum|}}}" | [[{{{superregnum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{regnum|}}}" | [[{{{regnum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subregnum|}}}" | [[{{{subregnum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{superdivisio|}}}" | [[{{{superdivisio}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{superphylum|}}}" | [[{{{superphylum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{divisio|}}}" | [[{{{divisio}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{phylum|}}}" | [[{{{phylum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subdivisio|}}}" | [[{{{subdivisio}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subphylum|}}}" | [[{{{subphylum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{infraphylum|}}}" | [[{{{infraphylum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{microphylum|}}}" | [[{{{microphylum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{nanophylum|}}}" | [[{{{nanophylum}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{superclassis|}}}" | [[{{{superclassis}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{classis|}}}" | [[{{{classis}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subclassis|}}}" | [[{{{subclassis}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{infraclassis|}}}" | [[{{{infraclassis}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{superordo|}}}" | [[{{{superordo}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{ordo|}}}" | [[{{{ordo}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subordo|}}}" | [[{{{subordo}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{infraordo|}}}" | [[{{{infraordo}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{superfamilia|}}}" | [[{{{superfamilia}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{familia|}}}" | [[{{{familia}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subfamilia|}}}" | [[{{{subfamilia}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{supertribus|}}}" | [[{{{supertribus}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{tribus|}}}" | [[{{{tribus}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subtribus|}}}" | [[{{{subtribus}}}]] > 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{genus|}}}" | [[{{{genus}}}]] 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subgenus|}}}" | {{{subgenus}}} 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{sectio|}}}" | {{{sectio}}} 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{series|}}}" | {{{series}}} 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{species|}}}" | {{{species}}} 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{subspecies|}}}" | {{{subspecies}}} 
| class="hiddenStructure{{{cultivar|}}}" | var. {{{cultivar}}} 
|} 
|}
 
<noinclude>

==About this template==
This template is adopted and significantly changed from an archived Wikipedia version. It makes life easy when transferring info here, while also making it easy to add addition useful gardening information.

Variables and typical classifications:
* common_names = Rose, Apple, etc
* growth_habit = Tree, Vine, Bush, Groundcover, Bulbous
* high = How high does the plant grow (in metric and english)
* wide = How wide does the plant grown (in metric and english)
* lifespan = Annual, Perennial, Biennial
* origin = what country/region is it native to, or is it of garden origin
* exposure = Full sun, Part shade/Part sun, Shade
* features = Naturalizes, fruit, veg, flowers, fragrance, foliage
* poisonous = Yes (if poisonous) or else leave this out
* hardiness = Hardy (ie. survives freezing winters), Frost tender (frost kills it), Tender
* bloom = Late Spring to Fall (Seasons plant blooms - if it is grown for flowers)
* usda_zones = 1-11 (see http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html )
* sunset_zones = 1-45 (see http://www.sunset.com/sunset/garden/article/1,20633,845218,00.html )

==Copy paste the following and fill out==
{{Plantbox
| color = IndianRed 
| name = ''latin name'' 
| image = Pink_petunias.jpg 
| image_width = 240px 
| image_caption = Petunias 
| common_names = 
| growth_habit = 
| high = 
| wide = 
| lifespan = 
| poisonous = 
| origin = 
| exposure = 
| water = 
| features = 
| poisonous = 
| hardiness = 
| bloom = 
| usda_zones = 
| sunset_zones = 
}}

</noinclude>