Fuchsia - Revision history

Potassium: /* Pests and diseases */

2010-01-26T05:51:18Z

Pests and diseases

Potassium: /* Pests and diseases */

2010-01-26T05:44:57Z

Pests and diseases

Raffi at 16:45, 13 October 2009

2009-10-13T16:45:31Z

Raffi at 20:06, 12 October 2009

2009-10-12T20:06:25Z

Raffi at 22:20, 25 August 2009

2009-08-25T22:20:08Z

Show changes

Christi at 10:21, 24 August 2009

2009-08-24T10:21:21Z

Christi at 09:59, 24 August 2009

2009-08-24T09:59:51Z

Raffi: /* References */

2008-12-02T23:16:32Z

References

Raffi at 06:22, 28 November 2008

2008-11-28T06:22:21Z

Raffi: /* Section 2: Eufuchsia */

2007-03-31T12:27:26Z

Section 2: Eufuchsia

@@ Line 44: / Line 44: @@
 ===Pests and diseases===
-If the plant has wilting or distorted leaves that have little insects on them, especially on new leaves, it is likely to be [[aphid|aphids]]. Spraying them with [[Confidor]] (NZ), [[Mavrik]] (NZ), [[Orthene]] (NZ), [[Super Shield]] (NZ) or a similar insecticide is the recommended treatment.
+If the plant has wilting or distorted leaves that have little insects on them, especially on new leaves, it is likely to be [[aphid|aphids]]. Spraying them with [[Confidor]] (NZ), [[Mavrik]] (NZ), [[Orthene]] (NZ), [[Super Shield]] (NZ) or a similar insecticide is the recommended treatment.<ref>Yate's 'Garden Problem Solver', HarperCollins, New Zealand, 2001</ref>
-[[Thrips]] can cause dehydrated leaves that are silvery in appearance. Treating with [[Confidor]] (NZ), [[Mavrik]] (NZ), [[Orthene]] (NZ), [[Super Shield]] (NZ) or a similar insecticide should correct the problem.
+[[Thrips]] can cause dehydrated leaves that are silvery in appearance. Treating with [[Confidor]] (NZ), [[Mavrik]] (NZ), [[Orthene]] (NZ), [[Super Shield]] (NZ) or a similar insecticide should correct the problem.<ref>Yate's 'Garden Problem Solver', HarperCollins, New Zealand, 2001</ref>
-Yellow leaves with orange or red [[pustule|pustules]] on the underside can be a sign of [[rust]], spraying with [[Greenguard]], [[Fungus Fighter]] or a similar fungicide should help.
+Yellow leaves with orange or red [[pustule|pustules]] on the underside can be a sign of [[rust]], spraying with [[Greenguard]], [[Fungus Fighter]] or a similar fungicide should help.<ref>Yate's 'Garden Problem Solver', HarperCollins, New Zealand, 2001</ref>
 {{Main|List of fuchsia diseases}}

@@ Line 43: / Line 43: @@
 ===Pests and diseases===
-{{edit-pests}}<!--- Type pest/disease info below this line, then delete this entire line -->
 {{Main|List of fuchsia diseases}}

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 {{SPlantbox
 |common_name=Fuchsia
 |habit=shrub

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-__NOTOC__{{Plantbox
+{{SPlantbox
-| latin_name = ''LATINNAME''   <!--- replace LATINNAME with the actual latin name -->
+|botanic_name=Fuchsia
-| common_names =     <!--- if multiple, list all, if none, leave blank -->
+|common_name=Fuchsia
-| growth_habit = ?   <!--- tree, shrub, herbaceous, vine, etc -->
+|habit=shrub
-| high = ?   <!--- 1m (3 ft) -->
+|Min ht metric=cm
-| wide =     <!--- 65cm (25 inches) -->
+|origin=C & S America, New Zealand
-| origin = ?   <!--- Mexico, S America, S Europe, garden, etc -->
+|lifespan=perennial
-| poisonous =     <!--- indicate parts of plants which are known/thought to be poisonous -->
+|features=flowers
-| lifespan =     <!--- perennial, annual, etc -->
+|flowers=red, purple, multicolored, pink, white, double, spotted
-| exposure = ?   <!--- full sun, part-sun, semi-shade, shade, indoors, bright filtered (you may list more than 1) -->
+|Temp Metric=°F
-| water = ?   <!--- frequent, regular, moderate, drought tolerant, let dry then soak -->
+|image=Fuschia.jpg
-| features =     <!--- flowers, fragrance, fruit, naturalizes, invasive -->
+|image_width=240
-| hardiness =     <!--- frost sensitive, hardy, 5°C (40°F), etc -->
+|familia=Onagraceae
-| bloom =     <!--- seasons which the plant blooms, if it is grown for its flowers -->
+|genus=Fuschia
 }}
-'''''Fuchsia''''' is a [[genus]] of flowering [[plant]]s, mostly [[shrub]]s, which were identified by [[Charles Plumier]] in the late 17th century, and named by [[Plumier]] in 1703 after the [[Germany|German]] botanist [[Leonhart Fuchs]] (1501–1566). The English vernacular name Fuchsia is the same as the scientific name.
+'''''Fuchsia''''' is a [[genus]] of flowering [[plant]]s, mostly [[shrub]]s, with some tree and herbaceous species as well.  The genus was identified by Charles Plumier in the late 17th century, who named it after German botanist Leonhart Fuchs. The English vernacular name Fuchsia is the same as the scientific name.  There are over 100 species and 8,000, cultivars and varieties of Fuchsia{{AHS}}.
-There are about 100–110 species of Fuchsia. The great majority are native to [[South America]], but with a few occurring north through [[Central America]] to [[Mexico]], and also several on [[New Zealand]], and [[Tahiti]]. One species, ''Fuchsia magellanica'', extends as far as the southern tip of South America on [[Tierra del Fuego]] in the cool [[temperate]] zone, but the majority are [[tropical]] or [[subtropical]]. Most fuchsias are shrubs from 0.2–4 m tall, but one [[New Zealand]] species, Kotukutuku (''[[Fuchsia excorticata]]''), is unusual in the genus in being a [[tree]], growing up to 12–15 m tall.
+The great majority of Fuchsias are native to [[South America]], but a few occurring north through [[Central America]] to [[Mexico]], and also several on [[New Zealand]], and [[Tahiti]]. One species, ''Fuchsia magellanica'', extends as far as the southern tip of South America on [[Tierra del Fuego]] in the cool [[temperate]] zone, but most are [[tropical]] or [[subtropical]]. Most fuchsias are shrubs from 0.2–4 m tall, but one [[New Zealand]] species, Kotukutuku (''[[Fuchsia excorticata]]''), is unusual in the genus in being a [[tree]], growing up to 12–15 m tall.
 Fuchsia [[leaf|leaves]] are opposite or in whorls of 3–5, simple lanceolate and usually have serrated margins (entire in some species), 1–25 cm long, and can be either [[deciduous]] or [[evergreen]] depending on the species. The [[flower]]s are very decorative pendulous "eardrop" shape, borne in profusion throughout the summer and autumn, and all year in tropical species. They have four long, slender, sepals and four shorter, broader, petals; in many species the sepals are bright red and the petals purple (colours that attract the [[hummingbird]]s that pollinate them), but the colours can vary from white to dark red, purple-blue, and orange. A few have yellowish tones, and recent hybrids have added the color white in various combinations. The [[fruit]] is a small (5–25 mm) dark reddish green, deep red, or deep purple edible [[berry]] containing numerous very small seeds. Many people describe the fruit as having a subtle [[grape]] flavor spiced with [[black pepper]].
@@ Line 50: / Line 38: @@
 Fuchsias are popular garden shrubs, and once planted will gives years of pleasures for minimal amount of care.  The British Fuchsia Society maintain a list of "hardy" fuchsias that have been proven to survive and number of winters throughout Britain and to be back in flower each year by July.  Enthusiasts report that hundreds and even thousands of hybrids survive and prospers throughout the Brisish Isles.
-Fuchsias from sections Quelusia (F magellanica and variants, F regia, etc), encliandra (and some encliandra hybrids will flower 365 days continuously), Skinnera (F excorticata, F perscandens) and Procumbentes (F procumbens makes a great groundcover pla
+Fuchsias from sections Quelusia (F magellanica and variants, F regia, etc), encliandra (and some encliandra hybrids will flower 365 days continuously), Skinnera (F excorticata, F perscandens) and Procumbentes (F procumbens makes a great groundcover plant) are proven to be hardy in widespread area of Britain.  Some of the more temperate species will survive outdoors in the more temperate areas, though may not always flower in the average British summer.
 ===Propagation===
-{{edit-prop}}<!--- Type propagation info below this line, then delete this entire line -->
+Seeds sown at 59-75°F (15-24°C). Softwood cuttings in spring, or semi-ripe cuttings in late summer with bottom heat.
 ===Pests and diseases===
@@ Line 219: / Line 206: @@
 Image:DoubleFuchsias wb.jpg|''Fuchsia sp.'' Flowers, double (more petals than species specimen)
 Image:25-05-06 (55).JPG|''Fuchsia x hybrida'', flower
-Image:Fuschia.jpg|''Fuchsia x hybrida'' flower, grown in Canada
+Image:Fuchsia magellanica.jpg|''Fuchsia magellanica''
 Image:Moonglow0.jpg|'''Fuchsia''' '''"Moonglow"''', flowers, grown in California, 2004.
 Image:Hanging Fuchsia-3825.jpg
@@ Line 234: / Line 221: @@
 *{{wplink}}
-{{stub}}
+__NOTOC__

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:21, 24 August 2009
Line 8:		Line 8:
	Fuchsias are among the most ornamental and popular of the cool greenhouse flowering plants. They may also be used in summer as bedding plants, and they are among the very few flowering plants that will bloom in the shade. If fair-sized specimen plants in 10- or 12-inch pots are desired, the best time to root them is the end of August. The best cuttings are secured from suckers that start from the base of the plants that are bedded out. The cutting should be 3 inches in length, and if the intention is to grow large specimens, pot them singly in 2-inch pots, in three parts sand, one part loam, and another of leaf-mold. Place the cuttings when potted in a shady position in a temperature of not less than 60° at night. When the very small plants are well rooted, shift them along into a pot 2 inches larger, using this time a compost of equal parts of loam, leaf-mold, and sand and add a third part of well-rotted manure. In this size of pot, the shoot will have made four or five joints, and should now be pinched to encourage side breaks. The plant, where it is stopped, will start into two breaks, and the strongest should be taken for a leader; pinch the weaker one when two leaves are well formed. Strict attention from now on should be paid to keep the plants in good shape. The side shoots must be kept in bounds, so that the symmetry of the plant is preserved, pinching "the stronger ones hard and allowing the weaker to grow a little longer so that they gain more vigor. The leader may be allowed to make six pairs of leaves, and then be stopped, always choosing the strongest breaks to increase the height of the plant. Potting should be strictly attended to, never allowing the plant to form a mat of roots around the ball before it gets a shift into a larger pot. The potting material for all future pottings may be composed of two parts good fibrous loam, with an equal amount of well-rotted horse-manure, one part flaky leaves, and one part sharp sand. The whole should be as rough as can be conveniently used when working it equally around the ball of the plant, in the potting operation. It is necessary to have a good straight stake down the center of the plant to support it in an upright position. When the plant is well established in the pot in which it is desired to flower it, manure waterings will be in order, as these plants are gross feeders when in active growth. Green cow-manure, fertilizers, and soot secured from soft coals agree well with fuchsias. The amount to be used is an ordinary handful to two and a half gallons of water. Water twice in between with clean water. Give the last pinch to the plants about six weeks before they are desired to be in full flower.—For bedding-out purposes, cuttings may be rooted in the spring, and grown on into 5- or 6-inch pots. Old plants may be kept through the winter, in a cool light pit, from which frost is kept. Keep them rather dry during October, November, and December, only giving enough water to maintain the wood plump. In January they may be removed to a temperature of 50° by night, allowing a rise of 10° or 15° during the day. This temperature, by the way, is most suitable for fuchsias after they are rooted until they come in flower. After it is seen where all the live eyes are on the old plants, trim them into shape, and remove all the dead wood. Turn them out of the pots, and remove all the loose dirt from the ball with a hose with a gentle pressure of water on it. They may be potted in the same size of pot, and when well rooted in that, give them a shift two sizes larger. Pinch the plants two or three times during the winter, and one will be rewarded with better plants the second year than the first. If well attended to every year, fuchsias may be kept for many years, attaining an enormous size. Fumigate with hydrocyanic gas, during winter, and that, with syringings on all bright days, until they come in flower, will keep down insect pests. (George F. Stewart.)		Fuchsias are among the most ornamental and popular of the cool greenhouse flowering plants. They may also be used in summer as bedding plants, and they are among the very few flowering plants that will bloom in the shade. If fair-sized specimen plants in 10- or 12-inch pots are desired, the best time to root them is the end of August. The best cuttings are secured from suckers that start from the base of the plants that are bedded out. The cutting should be 3 inches in length, and if the intention is to grow large specimens, pot them singly in 2-inch pots, in three parts sand, one part loam, and another of leaf-mold. Place the cuttings when potted in a shady position in a temperature of not less than 60° at night. When the very small plants are well rooted, shift them along into a pot 2 inches larger, using this time a compost of equal parts of loam, leaf-mold, and sand and add a third part of well-rotted manure. In this size of pot, the shoot will have made four or five joints, and should now be pinched to encourage side breaks. The plant, where it is stopped, will start into two breaks, and the strongest should be taken for a leader; pinch the weaker one when two leaves are well formed. Strict attention from now on should be paid to keep the plants in good shape. The side shoots must be kept in bounds, so that the symmetry of the plant is preserved, pinching "the stronger ones hard and allowing the weaker to grow a little longer so that they gain more vigor. The leader may be allowed to make six pairs of leaves, and then be stopped, always choosing the strongest breaks to increase the height of the plant. Potting should be strictly attended to, never allowing the plant to form a mat of roots around the ball before it gets a shift into a larger pot. The potting material for all future pottings may be composed of two parts good fibrous loam, with an equal amount of well-rotted horse-manure, one part flaky leaves, and one part sharp sand. The whole should be as rough as can be conveniently used when working it equally around the ball of the plant, in the potting operation. It is necessary to have a good straight stake down the center of the plant to support it in an upright position. When the plant is well established in the pot in which it is desired to flower it, manure waterings will be in order, as these plants are gross feeders when in active growth. Green cow-manure, fertilizers, and soot secured from soft coals agree well with fuchsias. The amount to be used is an ordinary handful to two and a half gallons of water. Water twice in between with clean water. Give the last pinch to the plants about six weeks before they are desired to be in full flower.—For bedding-out purposes, cuttings may be rooted in the spring, and grown on into 5- or 6-inch pots. Old plants may be kept through the winter, in a cool light pit, from which frost is kept. Keep them rather dry during October, November, and December, only giving enough water to maintain the wood plump. In January they may be removed to a temperature of 50° by night, allowing a rise of 10° or 15° during the day. This temperature, by the way, is most suitable for fuchsias after they are rooted until they come in flower. After it is seen where all the live eyes are on the old plants, trim them into shape, and remove all the dead wood. Turn them out of the pots, and remove all the loose dirt from the ball with a hose with a gentle pressure of water on it. They may be potted in the same size of pot, and when well rooted in that, give them a shift two sizes larger. Pinch the plants two or three times during the winter, and one will be rewarded with better plants the second year than the first. If well attended to every year, fuchsias may be kept for many years, attaining an enormous size. Fumigate with hydrocyanic gas, during winter, and that, with syringings on all bright days, until they come in flower, will keep down insect pests. (George F. Stewart.)

		+	Species not known to be in the American trade are: F. ampliata Benth. Fls. large, scarlet, long-tubed, drooping. Colombia. B.M. 6839.— F. bacillaris. Lindl. Compact, with short-jointed branches: fls., very small, flaring-mouthed, rosy, drooping. Mex. B.H. 1480. — F. cordifolia, Benth. Fls. 2 in. long, slender, drooping, hairy, red, on very long pedicels. Mex. B.R. 27:70. — F. dominitina, Hort. Garden hybrid with long drooping red fls. of the speciosa type. F.S. 10:1004. — F. excorticata, Linn. f. Shrub or small tree of New Zeal., reaching 40 ft. high and the trunk sometimes 2-3 It. diam., the bark thin, papery and loose: lvs. alternate, ovate-lanceolate to lanceolate, entire or nearly so: fls. 1 ¼ in. or less long, solitary and drooping, trimorphic. B.R. 857. — F. macrantha, Hook. Largest-fld. fuchsia; 4-6 in. long, pink-red, in large, drooping clusters. Colombia, Peru. B.M. 4233.— F. microphylla, HBK. Dwarf, small-lvd., with deep red, small axillary, drooping fls.: pretty. Mex. B.R. 1269. — f. serratifolia, Ruiz 4 Pav. Fls. long-tubod, speciosa-like, on drooping pedicels from the axils of the whorled lvs., pink with greenish tinge: handsome. Peru. B.M. 4174. — F. simplicicaulis, Ruiz A Pav. Lvs. usually in 3's, entire: fls. crimson, long and slender-tubed, in drooping clusters: resembles F. corymbifera. Peru. B.M. 5096.— F. thymifolia, H.B.K. To 6 ft.: [vs. small, opposite or nearly so, ovate or roundish, downy above: 9s. red, on axillary pedicels, the petals obovate and undulate. Mex. B-R- 1284.
		+	L. H. B.
	}}		}}

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:59, 24 August 2009
Line 1:		Line 1:
		+	{{Inc\|
		+	Fuchsia (Leonard Fuchs, 1501-1565, German professor of medicine, and a botanical author). Onagraceae. Handsome and popular flowering plants of greenhouses, conservatories, window-gardens and open grounds, blooming most freely in spring and summer.
		+
		+	Shrubs and small trees, with opposite, alternate or verticillate simple lvs.: fls. mostly showy, axillary or sometimes racemose and paniculate, usually pendulous, in shades of red and purplish and with some of the parts often white; tube prolonged beyond the ovary and bell-shaped to tubular, with 4 spreading lobes; petals 4, sometimes 5, or in some species wanting; stamens usually 8, often exserted; style long-exserted, the entire or 4- lobed stigma prominent: fr. (seldom seen under glass) a 4-loculed soft berry.—Seventy or eighty species, the greater part in Trop. Amer., but 3 or 4 in New Zeal. They are very variable in character. The common fuchsias arc known to us as small herbs, but most of them are shrubs in their native countries F. excorticala, of New Zeal., is a tree 30-40 ft. high, whereas F. procumbens, of the same country, is a weak, trailing plant. Of the many species, less than half a dozen have entered largely into garden forms. The common garden kinds have come mostly from F. magellanica. This species was intro. into Great Britain from Chile in 1788, or about that time. It is variable in a wild state as well as in cult., and plants subsequently intro. from S. Amer. were so distinct as to be regarded for a time as separate species. Even at the present day some of the forms of F. magellanica are commonly spoken of as species, so much dp they differ from the type. As early as 1848, 541 species and varieties—mostly mere garden forms—were known and named (Porcher, "La Fuchsia, son Histoire et sa Culture"). The fuchsia reached the height of its popularity about the middle of the past century. At present it is prized mostly for window-gardening and" conservatory decoration. The garden forms of the present day are with difficulty referred to specific types. The long-tubed or so-called speciosa forms are probably hybrids of F, magellanica and F. fulgens (Figs. 1603, 1604). Others are evidently direct varieties from the stem types. There are many full double forms. For the history and the garden botany of the fuchsia, see Hemsley in the Garden 9:284 and 11:70; also Watson, the Garden 55:74.
		+
		+	In mild climates, fuchsias make excellent outdoor shrubs, some of them withstanding frost. These are of the F. magellanica group. They are familiar to travellers in Ireland, and they may be seen as far north as the Shetland Islands. In California, many of the fuchsias are excellent and popular subjects for planting in the open. Under glass, forms of F. magellanica may be grown into large rafter shrubs, where they produce great abundance of bloom.
		+
		+	Fuchsias are among the most ornamental and popular of the cool greenhouse flowering plants. They may also be used in summer as bedding plants, and they are among the very few flowering plants that will bloom in the shade. If fair-sized specimen plants in 10- or 12-inch pots are desired, the best time to root them is the end of August. The best cuttings are secured from suckers that start from the base of the plants that are bedded out. The cutting should be 3 inches in length, and if the intention is to grow large specimens, pot them singly in 2-inch pots, in three parts sand, one part loam, and another of leaf-mold. Place the cuttings when potted in a shady position in a temperature of not less than 60° at night. When the very small plants are well rooted, shift them along into a pot 2 inches larger, using this time a compost of equal parts of loam, leaf-mold, and sand and add a third part of well-rotted manure. In this size of pot, the shoot will have made four or five joints, and should now be pinched to encourage side breaks. The plant, where it is stopped, will start into two breaks, and the strongest should be taken for a leader; pinch the weaker one when two leaves are well formed. Strict attention from now on should be paid to keep the plants in good shape. The side shoots must be kept in bounds, so that the symmetry of the plant is preserved, pinching "the stronger ones hard and allowing the weaker to grow a little longer so that they gain more vigor. The leader may be allowed to make six pairs of leaves, and then be stopped, always choosing the strongest breaks to increase the height of the plant. Potting should be strictly attended to, never allowing the plant to form a mat of roots around the ball before it gets a shift into a larger pot. The potting material for all future pottings may be composed of two parts good fibrous loam, with an equal amount of well-rotted horse-manure, one part flaky leaves, and one part sharp sand. The whole should be as rough as can be conveniently used when working it equally around the ball of the plant, in the potting operation. It is necessary to have a good straight stake down the center of the plant to support it in an upright position. When the plant is well established in the pot in which it is desired to flower it, manure waterings will be in order, as these plants are gross feeders when in active growth. Green cow-manure, fertilizers, and soot secured from soft coals agree well with fuchsias. The amount to be used is an ordinary handful to two and a half gallons of water. Water twice in between with clean water. Give the last pinch to the plants about six weeks before they are desired to be in full flower.—For bedding-out purposes, cuttings may be rooted in the spring, and grown on into 5- or 6-inch pots. Old plants may be kept through the winter, in a cool light pit, from which frost is kept. Keep them rather dry during October, November, and December, only giving enough water to maintain the wood plump. In January they may be removed to a temperature of 50° by night, allowing a rise of 10° or 15° during the day. This temperature, by the way, is most suitable for fuchsias after they are rooted until they come in flower. After it is seen where all the live eyes are on the old plants, trim them into shape, and remove all the dead wood. Turn them out of the pots, and remove all the loose dirt from the ball with a hose with a gentle pressure of water on it. They may be potted in the same size of pot, and when well rooted in that, give them a shift two sizes larger. Pinch the plants two or three times during the winter, and one will be rewarded with better plants the second year than the first. If well attended to every year, fuchsias may be kept for many years, attaining an enormous size. Fumigate with hydrocyanic gas, during winter, and that, with syringings on all bright days, until they come in flower, will keep down insect pests. (George F. Stewart.)
		+
		+	}}
		+
	{{Taxobox		{{Taxobox
	\| color = lightgreen		\| color = lightgreen

@@ Line 202: / Line 202: @@
 == References ==
-{{Reflist}}
+<references/>
 == External links ==
 * Pictures of [http://www.chilebosque.cl/shrb/flyci.html ''Fuchsia lycioides''] and [http://www.chilebosque.cl/shrb/fmage.html ''Fuchsia magellanica''] in Chile.

@@ Line 187: / Line 187: @@
 {{Main|List of fuchsia diseases}}
-==Pronunciation==
+==Gallery==
 <gallery>
 <!-- Unsourced image removed: Image:Fuchsia_in_full_bloom.jpg|''Fuchsia magellanica'' grown in Ireland -->
@@ Line 228: / Line 198: @@
 Image:Fuschia.jpg|''Fuchsia x hybrida'' flower, grown in Canada
 Image:Moonglow0.jpg|'''Fuchsia''' '''"Moonglow"''', flowers, grown in California, 2004.
 </gallery>
@@ Line 234: / Line 205: @@
 == External links ==
 * Pictures of [http://www.chilebosque.cl/shrb/flyci.html ''Fuchsia lycioides''] and [http://www.chilebosque.cl/shrb/fmage.html ''Fuchsia magellanica''] in Chile.

@@ Line 58: / Line 58: @@
 *''[[Fuchsia confertifolia]]''
 *''[[Fuchsia cordifolia]]''
-*''[[Fuchsia
+*''[[Fuchsia corymbiflora]]''
 *''[[Fuchsia cuatresasasii]]''
 *''[[Fuchsia decussata]]''
@@ Line 108: / Line 107: @@
 *''[[Fuchsia woytkowskii]]''
 {{col-end}}
 === Section 3: Kierschlegeria ===