Nidularium - Revision history

Raffi at 00:44, 21 February 2010

2010-02-21T00:44:11Z

Murali.lalitha at 08:21, 19 February 2010

2010-02-19T08:21:38Z

Murali.lalitha: Created page with '{{SPlantbox |genus=Nidularium |Temp Metric=°F |jumpin=If this plant info box on watering; zones; height; etc. is mostly empty you can click on the edit tab and fill in the blank…'

2010-02-19T08:17:20Z

Created page with '{{SPlantbox |genus=Nidularium |Temp Metric=°F |jumpin=If this plant info box on watering; zones; height; etc. is mostly empty you can click on the edit tab and fill in the blank…'

New page

{{SPlantbox
|genus=Nidularium
|Temp Metric=°F
|jumpin=If this plant info box on watering; zones; height; etc. is mostly empty you can click on the edit tab and fill in the blanks!
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Nidularium (from Latin nidus, a nest). Bromeliaceae. Warmhouse epiphytes, requiring the treatment of billbergia.

Flowers perfect, borne in compound heads, the petals joined at the base and not ligulate (in all the typical species); anthers attached mostly on the back (m some related plants attached mostly at the base): Lvs. strap-shaped, ovate or oval, in dense rosettes, the fls. mostly sessile, red, blue, or white; the inner Lvs. of the rosette, here called bract-lvs., are usually highly colored and constitute most of the merit of some species.—About 15 Brazilian species, by some referred to Karatas and other genera, but by Mez (DC. Monogr. Phaner. 9) kept distinct.

During the spring and summer nidulariums will require plenty of heat and moisture, this being their growing season. About the middle of January or when they show signs of becoming more active, they may be placed in a house with a night temperature of 65°. Before the plants are started up too much, they should have any necessary repotting. They do well in either pans, cribs, or wire baskets. The compost should be some light porous material, such as fern fiber, sphagnum moss, or fibrous peat, adding some broken crocks and charcoal for drainage. Gradually increase the temperature at night until by summer they are having 75° with 10° to 15° higher during the day. Dampen the walks and under the benches so as to produce plenty of atmospheric moisture. With the increased temperature, do not allow them to become dry at the root, as they like an abundance of moisture. While nidulariums like plenty of light, they will need some shade when the sun is powerful, so they will not burn. After flowering they should be encouraged to make new growth. During the winter the temperature may be dropped to about 60° at night and the atmosphere should be kept drier. They will need only a very little water during the dark days of winter, just enough to keep them alive. Nidulariums are increased by suckers like many others of the Bromeliaceae. These may remain on the parent plant until of sufficient size and strength, when they should be taken off and placed in small pots, using the same compost as above. Place these under a frame with bottom heat and a humid atmosphere. In a short time, they begin to make growth, when they may be given the same treatment as the old plants. Sponge often for scale.
}}

==Cultivation==

===Propagation===

===Pests and diseases===

==Varieties==

==Gallery==

<gallery perrow=5>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>

==References==
<references/>
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963




==External links==
*{{wplink}}

{{stub}}
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← Older revision		Revision as of 08:21, 19 February 2010
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	During the spring and summer nidulariums will require plenty of heat and moisture, this being their growing season. About the middle of January or when they show signs of becoming more active, they may be placed in a house with a night temperature of 65°. Before the plants are started up too much, they should have any necessary repotting. They do well in either pans, cribs, or wire baskets. The compost should be some light porous material, such as fern fiber, sphagnum moss, or fibrous peat, adding some broken crocks and charcoal for drainage. Gradually increase the temperature at night until by summer they are having 75° with 10° to 15° higher during the day. Dampen the walks and under the benches so as to produce plenty of atmospheric moisture. With the increased temperature, do not allow them to become dry at the root, as they like an abundance of moisture. While nidulariums like plenty of light, they will need some shade when the sun is powerful, so they will not burn. After flowering they should be encouraged to make new growth. During the winter the temperature may be dropped to about 60° at night and the atmosphere should be kept drier. They will need only a very little water during the dark days of winter, just enough to keep them alive. Nidulariums are increased by suckers like many others of the Bromeliaceae. These may remain on the parent plant until of sufficient size and strength, when they should be taken off and placed in small pots, using the same compost as above. Place these under a frame with bottom heat and a humid atmosphere. In a short time, they begin to make growth, when they may be given the same treatment as the old plants. Sponge often for scale.		During the spring and summer nidulariums will require plenty of heat and moisture, this being their growing season. About the middle of January or when they show signs of becoming more active, they may be placed in a house with a night temperature of 65°. Before the plants are started up too much, they should have any necessary repotting. They do well in either pans, cribs, or wire baskets. The compost should be some light porous material, such as fern fiber, sphagnum moss, or fibrous peat, adding some broken crocks and charcoal for drainage. Gradually increase the temperature at night until by summer they are having 75° with 10° to 15° higher during the day. Dampen the walks and under the benches so as to produce plenty of atmospheric moisture. With the increased temperature, do not allow them to become dry at the root, as they like an abundance of moisture. While nidulariums like plenty of light, they will need some shade when the sun is powerful, so they will not burn. After flowering they should be encouraged to make new growth. During the winter the temperature may be dropped to about 60° at night and the atmosphere should be kept drier. They will need only a very little water during the dark days of winter, just enough to keep them alive. Nidulariums are increased by suckers like many others of the Bromeliaceae. These may remain on the parent plant until of sufficient size and strength, when they should be taken off and placed in small pots, using the same compost as above. Place these under a frame with bottom heat and a humid atmosphere. In a short time, they begin to make growth, when they may be given the same treatment as the old plants. Sponge often for scale.
		+
		+	N. amazonicum, Lind. & Andr.-Canistrum. — N. Binotii, Morr.-Aregelia.- — ..V. Carolinae, Lem.— Aregelia. — N. Chantrieri, Andre is a hybrid of N. Innocentii and N. fulgens. with brilliant red bract-lvs., obtained by Chantrier Freres. France. R. H. 1895:452. — N. Lindenii, Regel-Canistrum. — N. medeo-pictum, Hort. Lvs. with dark blotches on a green ground and broad white bands lined with green in the center. Brazil. — N. Morrinianum, Makoy- Aregelia. — N. princeps, Morr.-Aregelia. — A'. triste, Regel-Aregelia.
	}}		}}

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 {{SPlantbox
 |genus=Nidularium
 |Temp Metric=°F
 |jumpin=If this plant info box on watering; zones; height; etc. is mostly empty you can click on the edit tab and fill in the blanks!
-|image=Upload.png
+|image=Nidularium fulgens HabitusInflorescence BotGardBln090f6.JPG
-|image_width=240
+|image_width=180
 }}
 {{Inc|
 Nidularium (from Latin nidus, a nest). Bromeliaceae. Warmhouse epiphytes, requiring the treatment of billbergia.
@@ Line 13: / Line 21: @@
 During the spring and summer nidulariums will require plenty of heat and moisture, this being their growing season. About the middle of January or when they show signs of becoming more active, they may be placed in a house with a night temperature of 65°. Before the plants are started up too much, they should have any necessary repotting. They do well in either pans, cribs, or wire baskets. The compost should be some light porous material, such as fern fiber, sphagnum moss, or fibrous peat, adding some broken crocks and charcoal for drainage. Gradually increase the temperature at night until by summer they are having 75° with 10° to 15° higher during the day. Dampen the walks and under the benches so as to produce plenty of atmospheric moisture. With the increased temperature, do not allow them to become dry at the root, as they like an abundance of moisture. While nidulariums like plenty of light, they will need some shade when the sun is powerful, so they will not burn. After flowering they should be encouraged to make new growth. During the winter the temperature may be dropped to about 60° at night and the atmosphere should be kept drier. They will need only a very little water during the dark days of winter, just enough to keep them alive. Nidulariums are increased by suckers like many others of the Bromeliaceae. These may remain on the parent plant until of sufficient size and strength, when they should be taken off and placed in small pots, using the same compost as above. Place these under a frame with bottom heat and a humid atmosphere. In a short time, they begin to make growth, when they may be given the same treatment as the old plants. Sponge often for scale.
-N. amazonicum, Lind. & Andr.-Canistrum. — N. Binotii, Morr.-Aregelia.- — ..V. Carolinae, Lem.— Aregelia. — N. Chantrieri, Andre is a hybrid of N. Innocentii and N. fulgens. with brilliant red bract-lvs., obtained by Chantrier Freres. France. R. H. 1895:452. — N. Lindenii, Regel-Canistrum. — N. medeo-pictum, Hort. Lvs. with dark blotches on a green ground and broad white bands lined with green in the center. Brazil. — N. Morrinianum, Makoy- Aregelia. — N. princeps, Morr.-Aregelia. — A'. triste, Regel-Aregelia.
+N. amazonicum, Lind. & Andr.-Canistrum. — N. Binotii, Morr.-Aregelia.- — ..V. Carolinae, Lem.— Aregelia. — N. Chantrieri, Andre is a hybrid of N. Innocentii and N. fulgens. with brilliant red bract-lvs., obtained by Chantrier Freres. France. — N. Lindenii, Regel-Canistrum. — N. medeo-pictum, Hort. Lvs. with dark blotches on a green ground and broad white bands lined with green in the center. Brazil. — N. Morrinianum, Makoy- Aregelia. — N. princeps, Morr.-Aregelia. — A'. triste, Regel-Aregelia.
 }}
@@ Line 25: / Line 33: @@
-==Varieties==
+==Species==
+* ''[[Nidularium albiflorum]]'' (L.B. Smith) Leme
 ==Gallery==
 <gallery perrow=5>
 Image:Upload.png| photo 1
 Image:Upload.png| photo 2
-Image:Upload.png| photo 3
+Image:Nidularium Innocentii, Nordisk familjebok.png|''Nidularium innocentii''
 </gallery>