https://gardenology.mywikis.net/w/index.php?action=history&feed=atom&title=PimeleaPimelea - Revision history2026-04-11T16:41:22ZRevision history for this page on the wikiMediaWiki 1.35.3https://gardenology.mywikis.net/w/index.php?title=Pimelea&diff=71878&oldid=prevKpdhage: Created page with '__NOTOC__{{Plantbox | latin_name = ''LATINNAME'' <!--- replace LATINNAME with the actual latin name --> | common_names = <!--- if multiple, list all, if none, leave blank -…'2009-09-06T08:20:28Z<p>Created page with '__NOTOC__{{Plantbox | latin_name = ''LATINNAME'' <!--- replace LATINNAME with the actual latin name --> | common_names = <!--- if multiple, list all, if none, leave blank -…'</p>
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Pimelea (Greek, fat, referring to the fleshy seeds). Thymelaeaceae. Rice-flower. Mostly shrubs, fitted for greenhouse culture, although reported to be hardy in the open wherever the lemon can be grown successfully.Woody, or rarely herbaceous, with small opposite or alternate, always simple and entire lvs.: infl. usually a terminal head or cluster, never umbellate, often with an involucre of 4 or more <br />
bracts at the base: fls. her maphrodite or functionally dioecious, white, pink or reddish, small but showy in the clusters and the bracts are often colored; perianth tubular, with a spreading (rarely erect) 4-lobed limb, the throat sometimes folded or thickened but without scales; stamens 2, inserted in the throat opposite the 2 outer perianth-lobes; ovary 1-celled: fr. a small drupe, included in the base of the perianth.—Austral, and New Zeal. Of the 80 or more species, only 3 or 4 (as P. ferruginea, P. ligustrina and P. spectabilis) are much known in cult, here, but there are other very showy species, some of which are grown in the Old World.These fine evergreen shrubs may be increased readily from cuttings of the young half-ripened shoots in March. Make these cuttings 2 to 3 inches long and place in pans, leaving about an inch between the cuttings. The pans should be filled with a mixture of loam, peat and silver sand in equal parts. See that the pans are well drained. Place where they may have a temperature of 55° to 60° and keep covered with glass. See that they are shaded and moist; and they will soon root. When they have made a fair amount of roots, they may be otted up into small pots, using a mixture of fibrous loam, fibrous peat, and leaf-mold in equal parts, with enough of sand to keep the compost open. Be sure that each pot has plenty of drainage as this is necessary for their welfare. They should be grown in a house where they will get a fair amount of ventilation in the summer and be shaded. The atmosphere should be kept moist by damping down, and the plants should have a good syringing every bright day. In the summer they should have the tops pinched. The pots may be placed on ashes, and this will help to keep them moist.They are slow-growing plants, and therefore will need but one shift during the summer. When they have filled the pots with roots, they may be shifted into 3- or 4-inch pots, using the same mixture. When the autumn comes, they should be given more ventilation, to ripen up whatever wood they have made. In autumn they may have a temperature of about 50° at night with about 10° rise with sun heat. They will do well in about 45° for a winter temperature, with about 55° to 58° on bright days. In winter, give great care to watering so they will not become <br />
too wet, just keeping in a nice moist state. By February they may have any necessary potting,using a mixture of fibrous loam four parts, fibrous peat one peat, leaf-mold and well- decayed cow-manure one part each, and enough clean sharp sand to make it porous. Pot firmly. They may now be given a temperature of 50° during the night with about 65° on bright days and by April they should be standing 5° to 8° more. They will now need a shift into 5- or 6-inch pots, and give them a pinch back when they have made a little growth. In summer they may have the strongest growths tied out in a horizontal position. Give the same culture as advised for the previous summer and by the next spring the plants should flower. For established plants, they will require heading in after they are through flowering and encouraged to make growth freely<br />
during the summer. Give these plants plenty of syringing as they are liable to be affected with red-spider; their treatment year after year will be similar to that mentioned before, only with larger shifts and to be assisted by weekly applications of liquid manure to give them renewed <br />
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vigor. (J. J. M. Farrell.)<br />
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INDEX.<br />
<br />
arenaria, 10. humilis. 7. nivea, 13. <br />
cernua, 16. hypericina, 4. paludosa, 8. <br />
decussata, 14 imbricata, 3. piligera,3. <br />
diosmifolia,14. incana,13. rosea,11.<br />
drupacea,2. intermedia,7. spathulata, 16.<br />
ferruginea, 14. involucrata,8. spectabilis, 15.<br />
filamentosa, 8. ligustrina,5. suaveolens, 6.<br />
glauca, 7. linifolia, 8. sylvestris, 12.<br />
graciliflora,9. longiflora,1. <br />
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==Cultivation==<br />
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===Propagation===<br />
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===Pests and diseases===<br />
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==Species==<br />
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==References==<br />
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963<br />
<!--- xxxxx *Flora: The Gardener's Bible, by Sean Hogan. Global Book Publishing, 2003. ISBN 0881925381 --><br />
<!--- xxxxx *American Horticultural Society: A-Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants, by Christopher Brickell, Judith D. Zuk. 1996. ISBN 0789419432 --><br />
<!--- xxxxx *Sunset National Garden Book. Sunset Books, Inc., 1997. ISBN 0376038608 --><br />
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==External links==<br />
*{{wplink}}<br />
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[[Category:Categorize]]<br />
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