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Potting. The first stage in the life of the plant is when the seedling is transplanted from the seed-bed or the cutting is put in the cutting-bench. It is only when either is potted that it can truly be said to take on the dignity of a plant. It is then out of swaddling clothes and enters the ranks of its big brothers and sisters, on the way to making its bow in society; to live perchance in the window of the tenement or on the fire- escape; mayhap to refresh the eye of the patient in the sick-room: or to lose its identity in rows of its fellows in great glass houses where the blossoms are garnered and sent to market; perhaps to take its place in row upon row of its kind and make an arabesque pattern or gay border, and so delight the eye or regale the senses with sweet odors.

The mechanical operation of potting includes also "shifting," i.e., transferring the plant from a small to a larger pot. Repotting signifies the same, generally speaking, as shifting: but speaking technically it means shaking out an established plant and putting it in a pot of the same size or one smaller, according to its needs. The actual operation of potting is very simple, and yet it must be well done to give the young plant a fair start in life. Careless potting is responsible for many losses in plants. The larger part of rooted cuttings and seedlings should be potted in 2-inch pots, and it is essential, particularly in the case of rooted cuttings, that it be done at the proper stage of development of the roots. When the roots are from 1/8 to 1/4 inch long they may be said to be at their best for potting. If sooner, the plants are not likely to develop so rapidly in the pot as if left in the cutting-bench; if later, they are harder to handle, injury is liable to result, and they do not so readily recover from the shock incident to the change.

The operation of potting as practised in commercial florists' establishments is as follows: The soil having been prepared, the workman places the empty pots at his left hand, the cuttings in front of him, and an empty "flat" to receive the potted plants at his right. With a simultaneous movement he takes an empty pot in his left hand and a handful of soil in his right. He "sets" the pot in front of him, fills it with soil, and while doing so reaches for the cutting, retaining a small portion of soil in his hand. With the index finger of the right hand he makes a hole in the center of the pot of soil, inserts the cutting, drops the portion of soil which he retained in his right hand into the hole, takes the pot between the index and middle fingers of both hands to steady it and obtain leverage, places his thumbs on each side of the cutting and parallel with his body (Fig. 3162), the right on the side away from his body, the left on the other side, and presses evenly and firmly; then shifts his thumbs so that they are at right angles with his body and presses again: transfers the potted plant with his right hand to the "flat," placing it with a little force to level the loose soil on top, reaching for another empty pot with his left hand as he does this, and repeats the movements. It is marvelous how rapidly these motions are made by expert workmen, and the work can be done as well rapidly as slowly when the cuttings are in the proper condition as to root-development already described. There was a time when 5,000 a day of ten hours was considered the maximum, and it is still good work for the average workman. James Markey. an employe of the late Peter Henderson, repeatedly potted 10,000 verbena cuttings with two boys to assist in taking away the plants as potted, supplying him with empty pots and cuttings, the requisite quantity of soil having been previously placed on the bench. The writer was his only assistant when he made his first great effort at "breaking the record," when he succeeded in potting 7,500 in ten hours. Upon one occasion he potted 11,500 verbena cuttings in a day of ten hours, which is the highest number ever reached. At a potting contest held in Madison Square Garden in New York city in 1892, George Martin potted 1,373 cuttings in one hour, the material used being arborvitae cuttings without roots. The "standard" pots (Fig. 3160) cannot be handled so rapidly as those without rims, for the reason that the lower edges of the rim are sharp and rough and make the fingers of the workman sore. Consequently the pota without rims are to be preferred.

The essentials in good potting are to put the cutting in the center of the pot and at the proper depth, to firm the soil thoroughly and evenly, and to leave 1/4 inch, or a little less, between the top of the soil ana the upper edge of the pot to receive water.

Included in potting is the care of the plants immediately after being potted and until they have taken root in the pots. First in importance is the "setting" of the plants on the bench; care should be taken that they are "set" perfectly level so that they will hold water. They should be watered thoroughly and shaded as soon as they are set. The best method of shading when large quantities are potted is by the use of lath shutters. These are made by nailing common laths on three parallel pieces of f urring strip, allowing 1 inch space between the laths. They may be made any length, 3 feet being a very convenient size. Inverted pots of a sufficient height to clear the young plants make very handy supports for these shutters. During late spring and summer it will be necessary to supplement this method of shading by covering the shutters with paper or muslin, the muslin being preferred. Sew the muslin in 10-yard lengths, giving pieces 2 yards wide. Sprinkle the muslin copiously at intervals as it becomes dry. This care must be kept up for three to six days according to conditions; the shutters should be put over the plants early in the morning, first watering the plants; an hour or so later 

the muslin should be put on, provided the sun is shining brightly. After the second day the period for covering the plants should be shortened by putting shutters and muslin on later and taking them off earlier until the plants are sufficiently established to get along without them. An important detail is to have about 1/2 inch of sand on the bench to retain moisture and allow for the proper "setting" of the plants. Another very important detail, in case new pots are used, is thoroughly to saturate them with water before filling, allowing sufficient time for the water to evaporate from the surface before using. It is bad practice to work with wet pots, and worse still with wet soil. A good test of the proper amount of moisture in soil for potting is when it molds in the hand only under strong pressure. Another essential, in case old pots are used, is to see that they are clean inside at till events; they should be clean outside as well, but if any old soil is found adhering to the inside of the pot it should be cleaned out and thrown away.

Potting large plants from the open ground, such as carnations, roses, geraniums, and shrubs, is an entirely different operation from the foregoing. These all require pots 5 inches in diameter and over, and sufficient pressure cannot be given with the thumbs properly to firm the soil. It is necessary, therefore, to use a stick about an inch wide, and sharpened down to 1/4 inch at the end. (Fig. 3163.) The handle should be round, and in a large place where much heavy potting and shifting are done it pays to have some of these sticks in regular tool stock. After the plant is placed in the pot and the latter filled with soil, take the stem of the plant at the surface between the index fingers and thumbs, the other fingers extended down the sides of the pot, lift the pot about an inch and set it back with a smart shock, at the same time pressing the plant down and steadying it; this settles the soil considerably in the pot. Next take the stick described above and run it around the inside edge of the pot twice or so to pack the soil, add more soil to fill up, finish by pressing evenly and firmly the entire surface with the thumbs, allowing 1/2 inch of space between the surface of the soil and the upper edge of the pots to hold water. What has been said about new and clean pots applies with even greater force to large pots.

The potting of orchids is a radically different operation from the potting of purely terrestrial plants, about which the preceding has been written. Consider cattlyas as an example: being epiphytes, they do not require soilin which to grow; put them in as small pots as possible. The material for potting best suited to these and most orchids is fibrous peat and live sphagnum moss in equal proportions, adding a small portion of broken charcoal. If freshly imported pieces are to be potted, cut away all the old dead roots, pseudo- bulbs and leaves. If the formation of the piece is uneven, it should be cut in two, so as to combine the parts thus separated into a more symmetrical whole, with the growths pointing to the center. Have the pot thoroughly clean, fill it about half with clean  "crocks" and small pieces of charcoal, adjust the piece in the center of the pot,
distributing evenly any roots which remain; but first spread a layer of moss over the "crocks," then press the preparation of peat, and moss evenly and moderately firm around the piece and in the interstices between the roots, finishing up high around the center; insert some small-sized stakes at the proper places to support the piece, tie the growth to them, and the job is finished. Fig. 3164 will show better than words can describe how the plant should look after it is potted.

Repotting, when necessary, is almost identical in its details with potting itself. The spring is the best time to do it, even with species which flower in autumn. Carefully remove all the old crocks and other material, so as not to injure the roots, a pointed stick being the best implement for the purpose. Then replace as carefully with new material in a clean pot. The undersigned dwells upon cleanliness repeatedly, for herein lies the great essential in successful plant- growing. Potting orchids in baskets, which sounds paradoxical, is identical with potting them in pots as far as the essential details of manipulation are concerned. The potting of bulbs is discussed under Bulb. "Shifting" is the technical term used in the florist's trade when plants are transferred to larger pots. (See Fig. 3165.) When the plant exhausts the soil in the small pot it must be put in a larger one to maintain growth. The trained eye detects at a glance by the appearance of the plant when it requires a "shift." Those lacking such training can discover it by turning the plant out of the pot and examining the roots. (See Fig. 3166.) If the outside of the ball of soil on the lower portion is well netted with roots as in Fig. 3167, and particularly if most of them have lost the fresh creamy white color of healthy "working" roots, then the plant must be at once shifted, or it will soon reach that stage which is the bane of the careless plant-grower, viz., "pot-bound."

"Knocking out" is the technical term used by florists to describe the turning of a plant out of a pot. The best way to do this is to take the pot in the right hand, invert it in passing it to the left, as the plant should be placed between the index and middle fingers of the left hand, give the pot a smart tap on its rim on the edge of the bench and the ball of soil is separated from the pot; place the plant in a flat ready for the purpose, and repeat. One tap is all that is necessary in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred. It is bad practice to get into the habit of giving a series of taps, as it makes slow work. We are considering now the first shift, i. e., from a 2-inch to a 3-inch pot.

The plants having been knocked out, the next operation is to "shoulder" them. This consists of removing the shoulder or edge of the ball of soil with the thumb and forefinger down to where the roots begin. The object of this is obvious, to remove leachcd-out soil and supply a fresh, nutritious portion in its place, so as to get the greatest possible advantage from shifting. Everything being made ready, the operator proceeds by putting a portion of soil in the bottom of the pot sufficient to raise the ball of soil flush with the edge of the pot. As this is being done, reach for the plant with the left hand and put it in the center of the pot; simultaneously take a handful of soil in the right hand and fill the pot, then grasp the pot between the index and middle fingers of each hand, place the thumbs on each side of the plant at right angles with the body, lift the pot about 1/2 inch and set it back on the bench with a smart rap, pressing with the thumbs at the same time; change the thumbs to right angles with their former position and press again, then change so as to press where they have not touched already; three pressures of the thumbs and the rap on the bench, and the operation is done. A smart operator with two boys will shift 5,000 plants in ten hours. This amount of work is made possible only by eliminating all unnecessary motions and making them synchronous with each hand in reaching for soil, pot, and plant as described. One hand should not be idle while the other is employed. See Figs.3168-3172 for good and bad examples of potting.

Be careful in shifting not to set the plants too deep. The tendency of roots is downward, and only enough of the stem to steady the plant in the pot should be in the soil Plants set too deeply in the pots are easily over- watered, because so much soil is not within the influence of root-action. A few plants which root from the crown, like lilies, should be set deeper than such plants as roses, geraniums, fuchsias, palms, and all plants whose root-action is mainly downward.

Do not give too great a shift at one time; that is, do not attempt to shift from a 2-inch pot to a 5- or 6-inch. As a rule, an inch at a time is best, especially for commercial purposes, where plants are grown to be shipped
some distance. In private places soft- wooded plants may be shifted in spring from 2- to 4-inch pots and from 4- to 6-inch, as the question of shippig does not enter. But it would not be safe even with these to do the same in late fall when growth is slower and the days are growing shorter. Hard- wooded plants, such as palms, azaleas, and the like, and even roses should never be shifted more than an inch at a time; in fact, it is better not
to shift them later than September in any case. The spring is the best time to do it.

Drainage is necessary in all pots over 4 inches and for hard-wooded plants even that size is better drained.

This is technically called "crocking," i. e., placing pot-sherds in the bottom of the pot to allow the quick passage of water and admit air to the roots. Place a large piece over the hole in the bottom of the pot and the remainder in smaller pieces. There are usually enough broken pots around a place to supply the needs. Charcoal is an excellent material for supplying pot-drainage, none better. An inch or so of drainage is sufficient in a 5- or 6-inch pot, 2 inches or so for all sizes above these. A bottom of broken stone, cinders or gravel is essential upon which to stand the pots, as such a stratum accelerates drainage, while at the same time providing a moist surface so beneficial to plants in a greenhouse.

A few words of caution may not be out of place before closing this branch of the subject. Never shift plants while the ball of soil is wet; it should be dry enough to crumble readily to the touch. Never shift into dirty pots; it will pay to clean them, especially the inside. Never shift a pot-bound plant without loosening the soil on the surface of the ball. A few smart raps with the closed fist will do it; or better still repot as now described.

Repotting is necessary frequently when plants have become pot-bound, or when from any cause they appear to require it; such, for instance, as debility from over- shifting, over-watering or neglect of any kind. In such cases the soil should be washed from the roots almost entirely and the plant put into a pot a size or two smaller than it has been growing in, taking care to firm the soil well, and if a shrubby plant prune it back according to its needs and conditions. Shade such plants until danger of wilting is past and water sparingly until new and vigorous growths appear, showing that the subjects have regained their normal health.

There are a few cultural details intimately associated with potting which may with profit be added as a closing paragraph. The high narrow pot shown on the extreme right of the line of pots in Fig. 3160 is frequently used for roses and palms by some, especially for Cocos Weddelliana, which makes a long tap-root and which it is almost invariably fatal to break. It is feasible, however, to avoid this if the seeds are sown in 6-inch pots, using 4 inches of clinkers as a bottom. These check the downward growth and induce development of fibrous roots in the soil, so that the tap-root may be cut off below them and the ordinary 2-inch pot used with safety. It is not necessary to use the deep pot for roses in any case. Plants which exceed the diameter of the pot should be given room to allow for development. The best market growers plunge the pots in soil to half their depth, as it is necessary in the spring months because of the rapid evaporation of water. This refers especially to geraniums, fuchsias, heliotropes, petunias, and the like. Care must be taken, however, to lift them occasionally so as to prevent the roots from getting hold in the soil through the hole in the bottom of the pot. Ten inches apart, from center to center for such plants will not be too much if stocky plants well set with good flowers are wanted; and in these days such plants will bring enough in the best markets to pay for the space and trouble. For 2- and 3-inch pots use sifted soil, but for 4-inch and over; soil well broken, but having plenty of fiber from sod in it, should be used. Always water plants thoroughly aftershifting so as to soak the soil to the bottom, and do not water again until they show dryness half way down the pot on the outside.
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==References==
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963
<!--- xxxxx  *Flora: The Gardener's Bible, by Sean Hogan. Global Book Publishing, 2003. ISBN 0881925381  -->
<!--- xxxxx  *American Horticultural Society: A-Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants, by Christopher Brickell, Judith D. Zuk. 1996. ISBN 0789419432  -->
<!--- xxxxx  *Sunset National Garden Book. Sunset Books, Inc., 1997. ISBN 0376038608  -->

==External links==
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