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-Pelargonium (stork, because the fruit is long and slender like a
-stork's bill). Geraniaceae. Geranium of gardens. Pelargonium. Stork's
-Bill. Many kinds of pot-plants, popular for indoors and for bedding;
-and some of them much planted permanently out-of-doors in California
-and elsewhere; flowers showy.
-Plants of various habit: some are fleshy and tuberous and are treated
-as succulents, but those commonly grown are erect or trailing leafy
-herbs or woody below (sometimes shrubby) with sts. somewhat soft and
-succulent or small and firm: lvs. mostly opposite, entire to
-decompound, stipulate, the foliage often strong- scented: infl.
-mostly umbel-like, on axillary peduncles; fls. irregular, the petals
-(rarely fewer by abortion), the 2 upper usually larger and more
-prominently colored, the lower mostly narrow and rarely very small,
-the colors pink, red, purple, white, sometimes yellow, often
-attractively blotched or veined; calyx 5-parted (or the sepals said
-to be connate at base), the uppermost segm. produced at base into a
-slender nectar-bearing tube or spur adnate to the pedicel; stamens
-, of which 7 or less are anther-bearing and fertile: fr. of 5
-valves, each 1-seeded and separating from the beaklike apex mostly by
-coiling and more or less hygro metrically.—Nearly all the
-pelargoniums are from S. Afr. All the species mentioned in this
-article are from that region, unless otherwise stated. Harvey, in
-Vol. I of Harvey & Sender's Flora Capensis (1859-60), admits
-species; and his descriptions are followed closely in the
-characterizations of species given below. Knuth, the most recent
-monographer (in Engler's Pflanzen- reich, IV. 129, 1912), admits 232
-species and very many well-marked hybrids. Pelargonium is
-distinguished from the genus Geranium by technical characters. In
-most cases, the fls. of Geranium are regular, but those of
-Pelargonium are irregular, the 2 upper petals differing from the
-others in size and shape and often in coloring. The most constant
-difference between the two genera is the presence in Pelargonium of a
-nectar-tube, extending from the base of one of the sepals and
-adherent to the side of the calyx-tube or pedicel. This tube is not
-seen by the casual observer, but it may be discovered by making a
-longitudinal section of the fl. and pedicel.
-The person who wishes to study the contemporaneous evolution of
-plants may find his heart's desire in Pelargonium. With great numbers
-of species and many of them variable and confusing in a wild state,
-with plant breeding in many places and continued through two
-centuries, and with a large special literature, the genus offers
-exceptional advantages and perplexities to the student. Most of the
-species early came into cultivation by the English and Dutch, the
-South African plants forming at one time almost a separate department
-of horticultural knowledge. P. cucullatum, the dominant parent in the
-florist's pelargoniums, was known in England as early as 1690. The
-two originals of the race of zonal or bedding geraniums were
-introduced into England in 1710 and 1714. Early in that century, a
-half-dozen species were grown at Eltham, in the famous garden of
-James Sherard, and these were pictured in 1732 in Dillenius account
-of that garden, "Hortus Elthamensis," a sumptuously illustrated work
-in quarto. Even at that time, P. inquinans had varied  markedly (see
-Fig. 2836).in his "Species Plantarum," 1753, Linnaeus . described the
-few species which he knew (about twenty-five) under the genus
-Geranium. In 1787, L'Heritier founded the genus Pelargonium, and
-transferred many of the Linnaean species. L'Heritier's work
-"Geraniplogia," a quarto, appeared in Paris in 1787 to 1788, with
-forty-four full- page plates. Recently Kuntze has revived the pre-
-Linnaean name Geraniospermum (1736) for this genus, but it is not
-likely to find acceptance.
-Early in the nineteenth century, many species were in cultivation in
-Europe, and experiments in hybridizing and breeding became common.
-There appears to have been something like a geranium craze. The
-experiments seem to have been confined largely to the development of
-the show or fancy pelargoniums, as greenhouse subjects, for bedding
-plants had not reached their present popularity. The geranium
-interest seems to have culminated in Robert Sweet's noble work on
-"Geraniaceae," published in five volumes in London, 1820 to 1830,
-containing 500 well-executed colored plates of geraniaceous plants.
-At that time many distinct garden hybrids were in cultivation, and to
-these Sweet gave Latin botanical names. His fifth volume is devoted
-chiefly to garden forms of the show pelargonium type, to which the
-general class name Domes- ticum is given in the following sketch. The
-development of the zonal or bedding geraniums had begun in Sweet's
-time, and he includes them in his pictures, but the larger part of
-their evolution is subsequent to his history. Various small works on
-pelargonium have appeared. De Jonghe's "Traite Me'thodique de la
-Culture du Pelargonium," Brussels, 1844, contains good
-bibliographical and cultural data.
-Few classes of plants should have more interest to the amateur and
-fancier because the species are numerous and varied, the colors
-mostly very attractive, the habit of the plant interesting, and the
-foliage often with pleasing fragrance; yet, excluding the common
-window and bedding geraniums of the P. zonale and P. inquinans type
-and the Lady Washington or Show types, they are very little known to
-gardeners. A cool greenhouse could be made to yield very interesting
-subjects in the species here described and others that may be secured
-from collectors in the regions where they grow.
-Most of the cultivated forms of pelargonium may be grouped into four
-general horticultural classes:
-I. The zonal, horseshoe, fish, or bedding types, known to gardeners
-as "geraniums." They comprise a mongrel class, designated as the
-Hortorum class This race seems to be derived from P. zonale and P.
-inquinans. These two species were made by Linnaeus in 1753, but he
-founded them on descriptions in earlier works rather than directly on
-the plants. In America, the zonal geraniums are very popular, for
-they develop their colors well in the bright climate. They are
-popular in all countries, however. They probably stand closer to the
-lives of a great number of persons than any other ornamental plant.
-If a window or a garden can have but one plant, that plant is likely
-to be a geranium. The old race of large-flowered and large-clustered
-geraniums was known as "nosegay geraniums," because they were
-bouquet-like, but this term is not known in America. Another race has
-been developed for its zone marked leaves. There is also a race of
-double-flowered zonals, which have appeared chiefly since 1860. The
-very full double and close-clustered forms lose much of the grace and
-charm of the single types. Some of them are little better, to a
-sensitive eye, than balls of colored paper. In the development of the
-individual flower of the geranium, there have been two ideals—the
-English ideal for a circular flower with the petals broadened and
-overlapping, and the continental ideal with a somewhat two-lipped
-flower and the petals well separated. In the "Gardeners' Chronicle"
-in 1841, p. 644, the proper form is set forth in an illustration, and
-this is contrasted with the "original form;" the picture is
-reproduced, somewhat smaller, in Fig. 2837. "The long, narrow, flimsy
-petals of the old varieties," the writing says, "moved by every
-breath of wind, and separated to their very base by broad open
-spaces, have been succeeded by the beautiful compact flowers of the
-present day, with broad stout petals so entirely overlaying each
-other as to leave scarcely an indentation in the outline of the
-flower; while the coarseness which prevailed in the larger of the old
-sorts is replaced by a firmer substance, and a far more delicate
-texture." Fig. 2838 shows contrasting ideals, although the picture
-does not represent the extremes.
-In more recent years  a French type has appeared under the name of
-"gros bois," or "large-wood" race. It is characterized as follows by
-Dauthenay: umbels ordinarily 4 to 5 inches in diameter: flowers very
-large; petals roundish, or sometimes triangular, the limb always very
-large and giving the corolla a remarkably round contour: leaves very
-large, thick and coriaceous, plane or incurved, more or less
-indented, strongly nerved, their diameter averaging about 5 inches,
-pedicels large and short: peduncles large, rigid, and projecting
-beyond the foliage: wood soft, fleshy, very large, often 1 1/2 inches
-around. To this type Dauthenay refers the Bruant geraniums, dating
-from 1882. A special handbook is devoted to these plants: Dauthenay,
-"Les Geraniums," Paris, 1897.
-II. The ivy-leaved geraniums, products largely of Pelargonium
-peltatum (Fig. 2839). The species is said to have been introduced
-into England in 1701. It is a weak and straggling plant, used mostly
-in vases, hanging-baskets, and other places in which an overhanging
-subject is desired. The foliage is thick and shiny, slightly peltate
-and prominently angle-lobed, and the pink or reddish two-lipped
-flowers are always admired. Much-improved and double forms are now in
-commerce.
-III. The "show" or fancy type is known to gardeners as "pelargonium,"
-and in this country also as Lady Washington geraniums (Fig. 2845).
-These plants are very popular in Europe, being grown in numerous
-varieties. They are prominent at the exhibitions. Because of the hot
-trying summer climate, these plants are of very secondary importance
-in America, although there are many gardeners who succeed well with
-them. This race of pelargoniums seems to have descended chiefly from
-P. cucullatum, although P. angulosum may be nearly equally concerned
-in it. P. grandiflorum is also thought to have been a formative
-parent. It is probable that two or three other species are concerned
-in the evolution. In fact, the late Shirley Hibbard once wrote (G.C.,
-July 3, 1880) that "it must be evident to every cultivator of these
-flowers that the blood of a score or so of species is mingled in
-them." This marked garden race, which represents no single wild
-species, is designated as the Domesticum group.
-IV. Various scented-leaved geraniums, known mostly as "rose
-geraniums." These are of several species, with then hybrids and
-derivatives. The common rose geraniums are nearest P. graveolens and
-P. Radula. The nutmeg geranium is P. odoratissimum or P. fragrans.
-Aside from the above groups there are several species which appear
-sporadically in -the trade, as P. tomen- tosum, P. echinatum, P.
-triste, P. quinquevulnerum, P. fulgidum, and P. quercifolium or the
-derivatives of them. Few great collections of pelargonium species and
-varieties have been made in this country, and this is much to be
-regretted.
-Culture of zonal geraniums. (C. W. Ward.)
-While the general florist may consider geranium- culture the easiest
-of all gardening, the fact remains that it is as necessary to observe
-the requirements of the geranium as it is to observe the requirements
-of any other plant; in order to succeed and produce the best effects
-attainable. While it is true that the geranium will grow and make a
-good showing with comparatively little care, there is as much
-difference between a skilfully grown geranium plant and one
-carelessly grown as there is between a fancy and a common rose or
-carnation.
-To secure the best results it is necessary to propagate from
-perfectly healthy stock. The dangers of over- propagation are as
-great with the geranium as with most other plants. To keep most
-varieties in good health it is necessary to plant the stock intended
-for propagation in the field and to propagate either from the
-field-grown wood in August or early September, or to lift the plants
-in the month of September and plant them on benches in the
-greenhouse, where they will become established and will maintain a
-vigorous constitution throughout the winter season. The propagation
-from field-grown wood is far less successful than from wood grown
-inside, and when the field-grown cuttings are placed in sand, a large
-percentage of them is likely to damp-off, especially if there has
-been a comparatively abundant rainfall in the month of July. The best
-method that the writer has found for striking the field- grown
-cuttings is to put them in 2-inch pots, using a light sandy soil free
-from all manure and chemicals, and to place the pots in the full
-sunlight either in a coolhouse or a frame. These cuttings must be
-kept on the dry side until the calluses have been well formed,
-although they should not be allowed to shrivel at any time. If the
-cuttings show signs of shriveling, a light syringing is preferable to
-a heavy watering. After the roots have started, the treatment of the
-plants is the same as if the cuttings had been rooted in the sand and
-repotted. The writer contiders wood grown inside superior to
-field-grown wood, as the cuttings are much shorter-jointed; most of
-them can be taken from the plant with a heel and 95 to 100 per cent
-of them will root in sand in the ordinary cutting-bench.
-A good temperature for the geranium propagating- house is 56° to 60°,
-with a bottom heat of 65° to 60*. While the cuttings are in the sand
-and before they are rooted, care must be taken about keeping them top
-moist for fear of "damping-off," or what geranium- growers know as
-"black-rot." As soon as the cutting is thoroughly callused and begins
-to emit roots, it should be potted up at once. The best soil for
-geraniums, according to the writer's experience, is a firm pliable
-clay loam; this is best if used absolutely without any manure,
-especially fresh manure. After potting the cuttings they should be
-lightly watered and shaded for a day or so if the sun is extremely
-hot, until the roots take hold and the foliage fills up and the stems
-begin to look plump. The geranium should not be grown at any time in
-its young state in a soil that is too rich, and care must also be
-taken that the plants are not kept too wet.
-The geranium is subject to few diseases, and so far as the writer
-has been able to observe these diseases are brought on by improper
-treatment, such as having too much fresh rank manure in the soil or
-keeping the plants too wet. Too much strong plant-food in the earth
-combined with too much moisture induces a condition of the leaves
-ordinarily called "spot." It usually appears in the hottest weather
-or immediately after extreme heat accompanied by copious showers or
-rains.
-Excellent specimen geranium plants may be grown in pots, especially
-of some of the newer French and English round-flowered varieties. In
-order to produce the best results, choose young vigorous plants that
-have been propagated either in the latter part of August or the
-forepart of September, and that have shown a disposition to take hold
-immediately, both in rooting and in starting to grow after being
-potted. The soil should not be too rich, and it is best to start with
-the plant in a rather small pot, say 2 1/2 inches, and proceed onward
-with light shifts,—that is, shifting the plant from a 2 1/2-inch to a
-1/2-inch pot, and so on, letting the sizes increase an inch at each
-shift until a 7-, 8-, or 9-inch pot is reached, which will usually be
-large enough to flower the finest specimens. Whenever shifting the
-geranium, be sure to pot firmly, as a firm soil produces a
-short-jointed stocky growth, and far more bloom than a loose or
-over-rich soil. When the plants reach a 5- or 6-inch pot they may be
-regularly fed with manure- water. The most critical time for these
-specimen geraniums will be in the months of July, August, and
-September; in these periods exposure to intense sunshine should be
-avoided. Too much water and a close temperature are always
-detrimental to the geranium. Syringing the foliage frequently to keep
-down the temperature is also injurious. If these plants are kept
-under glass, a light shading or stripping upon the glass is
-beneficial. Probably the best position for such plants in these three
-extreme months is on the north side of a row of trees, some distance
-away from the trees, where the plants will have the benefit of the
-subdued shading of the foliage. If kept under glass and
-shaded,abundant ventilation should always be provided. As the winter
-approaches, a night temperature of 60° and day temperature of 70° to
-°; with plenty of ventilation in the daytime, especially in bright
-weather, seem best to suit the plants. Syringing ruins the flowers,
-and too much moisture either in the pot or upon the foliage causes
-the spotting of the leaves known as "dropsy." In planting the
-geranium in the field or in beds, always avoid an over-rich soil. The
-earth should be in good condition and fertile, but must not be loaded
-with either chemical or animal fertilizer. Too much water at any
-period during the hot weather produces a rank growth, reduces the
-quantity of bloom and in most instances induces the spotted foliage
-to appear.
-Another disease, which is sometimes serious, especially in extremely
-hot seasons accompanied with a superabundance of moisture, is
-"stem-rot." This frequently attacks imported stock. It is most
-serious in intensely hot seasons; the entire plant turns black and
-fades and withers away. The stem-rot occurs in varieties that have
-been very heavily propagated.
-The insects that affect the geranium are also comparatively few. The
-red-spider is sometimes a serious pest in summer and is difficult to
-get rid of when it is once well established. The only method is to
-syringe the plants with an extremely fine spray, and also to pick off
-the leaves that are seriously affected and burn them. The green-fly
-is also troublesome at times, but is easily managed with the ordinary
-fumigation of tobacco. There is a small caterpillar that eats the
-foliage and sometimes proves a serious pest. If one can induce a few
-ground sparrows or any of the warblers, or even English sparrows, to
-make their home about the greenhouse, they will put a speedy end to
-these caterpillars. Another remedy is to go over the plants carefully
-and to pick the caterpillars off and destroy them. This is tedious,
-as it must be done frequently.
-In the way of bedding geraniums, as a rule the Bruant section
-produces the best results, but there are a number of English and
-French varieties that do especially well in our hot climate. The
-greatest difficulty in successful geranium-culture in America is the
-intense heat of the summer months, chiefly July and August. Some
-varieties withstand the heat better than others.
-Show pelargoniums. (T. D. Hatfield.)
-What are known as show pelargoniums have enjoyed a long popularity.
-By the general public, and by old people especially, they are known
-as Lady Washington geraniums. They are not so commonly grown as the
-so-called geraniums, chiefly on account of their limited season of
-bloom and the fact that they cannot endure our hot midsummer suns.
-Through the greater part of the summer they are liable to be
-neglected. They also require different treatment from geraniums, and
-— if skill there be — more skill in cultivation.
-At the end of the blooming season, they require rest, — a season of
-ripening the growth already made. At this time very little water will
-be needed, and they may be stood out in the full sun. Only the old
-flower-stems may be removed. In no sense should they be cut back at
-this time, neither should water enough be given to encourage new
-growth. All the leaves should stay on until they naturally turn
-yellow with age, thus securing a thoroughly ripened growth. In
-September, one may prune them into shape, sometimes rather severely,
-but in any case cut out all weak and soft shoots. They should then be
-shaken out and repotted in a light compost, not rich, into the
-smallest-sized pots that wil| hold them, for the process of growing
-them on has to be gone over every season. After potting, a good
-soaking will be necessary, and they may be placed in a well-lighted
-coldframe. There is no need to keep them close; the stimulation of
-water, and the slight protection of a frame are usually enough to
-start them into new growth. No forcing will ever be needed at any
-season, and if the grower wished, he might keep them in a cold- frame
-until very late in the season, so long as adequate protection against
-frost is afforded. They are at their best in May, and to have them in
-good condition, one may grow them slowly in a house averaging about
-° night temperature (slightly less in midwinter), from October
-onward.
-After the turn of the days—in January—repot them, using now a richer
-compost. Give a fairly good shift, depending in part on the size of
-plants desired, the vigor they show, and the difference in varieties.
-If wanted to bloom in April or, as some florists might, at Easter,
-they should have been potted at once—in late August or September—into
-the size they should bloom in,—a medium size, probably the same as
-they had lately occupied, and have been taken indoors to grow on
-continuously. But for display in May and June, they are potted again
-in January, and some plants may be given another shift when extra
-vigor or the possible need of a few extra-large specimens demand it.
-They will need careful stopping. Some rubbing out of weak shoots,
-when they break abundantly, will help those that remain, and one may
-even have to do a little pruning. Stopping, however, must be
-discontinued as soon as the flowering stems begin to show, which is
-about the end of February in the writer's practice. These stems can
-be distinguished easily by a slightly different manner of growth. Up
-to this time the plants may be allowed to grow naturally; but if the
-gardener wants trained specimens he must begin to bend them as he
-wishes them to grow, as their growth speedily hardens and the plant
-will readily take and keep the form to which it is shaped.
-Water should be given sparingly through the dead of winter. February
-and March are the months when the most growth is made, and at this
-time one may stimulate them materially by the judicious use of
-artificial manures, which may be continued, if necessary, until they
-come into bloom. They are much subject to the attacks of green-fly
-and red-spider; and as the foliage is fairly tender and liable to
-injury from tobacco smoke, reliance must be placed on fluid
-insecticides almost wholly. The blooming season is very much
-lengthened by giving a slight degree of shade.
-The best time to take cuttings is soon after the flowering season.
-Often toward the last of the season, the plants make a few "growing"
-shoots, and these may be taken; but off and on during the summer one
-can get cuttings, and any time until August will do. Cuttings taken
-in winter-time with a heel make pretty little plants in 4- or 5-inch
-pots without stopping. Cuttings taken at the usual time and grown in
-- or 7- inch pots come in handy in grouping for the front lines. It
-is necessary to raise a few plants every season to replace older
-plants which have grown too large.
-New varieties are raised from seed, which is freely produced. In
-hybridizing it does not appear that handpollination has any effect,
-as the seedlings seldom show any particular affinity to either
-parent.
-                                    Index.
-anguloeum, 20.	          filipendulifolium, 1.	     odoratissimum,
-, 16.
-artemisaefolium, 5.	  fragrans, 16.	             odoratum, 31.
-artemisioides, 5.	  fulgidum, 3.
-pastinacaefolium, 1.
-betulinum, 17.	          glabrum, 7.	             peltatum, 7,
-capitatum, 23.	          grandiflorum, 8.	     quercifolium,
-.
-clypeatum, 7.	          graveolens, 26.	     quinquevulnerum,
-.
-cordatum, 18.	          hederaefolium, 7. 	     Radula, 28.
-crispum, 30.	          hispidum, 27.	             revolutum, 28.
-cucullatum, 19.	          hortorum, 13.	             scutatum, 7.
-daucifolium, 1	          inquinana, 12.	     Thorncroftii,
-.
-denticulatum, 29.         lateripes, 7.  .	     tomentosum, 22.
-domesticum,21             latifolium,30
-transvaelense,10.
-Drummondii, 23.	          laxatum, 1.		     triste, 1.
-echinatum, 14.	          Limoneum, 31.              villosum,1
-Endlicherianum, 6.	  multibracteatum 9.	     vitifolium, 24.
-erectum, 16.	          multifidum, 28.	     sonale, 11.
-exstipulatum, 4.
-I. Lvs. on the pinnate order, although sometimes entire, usually
-pinnately lobed or compound. (Nos. 1-5).
-Any number of Latin-formed names of Pelargonium may appear in the
-trade, for the hybrids and varieties are numerous and not always
-readily referable to the species as forms or varieties.—P.
-Blandfordianum, Sweet {P. graveolens X P. echinatum). A good grower,
-shrubby, the branches roughish pubescent: lvs. flat, 7- lobed, the
-lower lobes deeply lobed again, all bluntly toothed, strong-scented:
-fls. white or pale blush, the upper petals with 2 red spots. G.M.
-:626.—P. brevipetalum, N. E. Br.=Polycephalum-P.Cotyledonis,L'Her.Lvs evergreen at base of plant, cordate,3in. across,entire or nearly so, whitish beneath wrinkled above:fls on scape-like peduncles above the lvs.2/4 in across, white.
-St. Helena. Requires little heat. G. 35:235.—P. inxquilobum. Mast.
-Allied to P. multibracteatum. Pilose: lvs. 3-lobed, the terminal lobe
-ovate-lanceolate and again lobed in middle, margins toothed: fls.
-greenish yellow with purple in base. Trop. Afr. Perhaps same as P.
-Fischeri, Engl.—P. luteolum, N. E. Br. A very recent species from S.
-Afr.: herb with bulbous root- stock: lvs. 4 or 5, all radical, twice
-ternately divided, 1/2-1 1/4 in. long and broad, the ultimate segms.
-linear: petals nearly 1/2in. long, pale yellow with 2 red lines at
-base.—P. polycephalum, E. Mey. (P. brevipetalum, N. E. Br.), St.
-thick and fleshy, ovoid, rising very little above the ground,
-short-branched at top: lvs. in a rosette, bipinnately divided,
-ovate-oblong in outline, thick and fleshy; pinnae 5 or 6 pairs,
-pinnatisect: fls. pale yellow, the petals shorter than sepals. Cape
-Colony.—P. roseum, Hort., is a name of no botanical standing, applied
-to some of the common forms of rose geranium of the P. Radula group.
- L H B
-}}
 #REDIRECT [[Geranium]]

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