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| ==Cultivation== | | ==Cultivation== |
− | Fertilize plumeria with 10-30-10 every three to four months (in frost-free areas) at about 1 lb per inch of trunk diameter, distributing the fertilizer around the the plant to 2 feet beyond the foliage line. Feeding late in year will cause soft growth, which is venerable to the lightest frosts, so in frost-prone areas, only fertilize during early to mid-growing season. | + | Fertilize plumeria with 10-30-10 every three to four months (in frost-free areas) at about 1 lb per inch of trunk diameter, distributing the fertilizer around the the plant to 2 feet beyond the foliage line. Feeding late in year will cause soft growth, which is vulnerable to the lightest frosts, so in frost-prone areas, only fertilize during early to mid-growing season. |
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| Pruning is easiest in winter, after leaf drop, but pruning heavily will reduce the spring bloom. Shriveled and bent stems are infested with the plumeria stem borer, cut these back to their joint with a main branch (or lower if there you can see internal discoloration), then destroy these infested branches. Many old trees respond well to a pruning practice known as pollarding. Pollarding is a system in which a framework of branches is created with yearly pruning back on each branch to a point called the pollard head. The pollard head develops many growing points due to the annual pruning, and produces a fresh batch of shoots each year. In plumeria, if you pollard while the plant is dormant, the new shoots might develop flowers late in the year. Summer growing season pollarding produces a set of short branches that will go dormant in the fall rather than produce a flower head, then grow out as longer branches the following growing season, then many of these will flower in late summer. | | Pruning is easiest in winter, after leaf drop, but pruning heavily will reduce the spring bloom. Shriveled and bent stems are infested with the plumeria stem borer, cut these back to their joint with a main branch (or lower if there you can see internal discoloration), then destroy these infested branches. Many old trees respond well to a pruning practice known as pollarding. Pollarding is a system in which a framework of branches is created with yearly pruning back on each branch to a point called the pollard head. The pollard head develops many growing points due to the annual pruning, and produces a fresh batch of shoots each year. In plumeria, if you pollard while the plant is dormant, the new shoots might develop flowers late in the year. Summer growing season pollarding produces a set of short branches that will go dormant in the fall rather than produce a flower head, then grow out as longer branches the following growing season, then many of these will flower in late summer. |
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| ===Propagation=== | | ===Propagation=== |
− | ''Plumeria'' species are easily [[Plant propagation|propagated]] by taking a cutting of the end of a branch (about 20-30 long) and allowing it to dry at the base before inserting into well draining soil. They are also propagated via tissue culture both from cuttings of freshly elongated stems and via aseptically germinated [[seed]]. It is important to avoid contact with the poisonous sap, which can cause serious skin burns in some people. | + | ''Plumeria'' species are easily [[Plant propagation|propagated]] by taking a cutting of the end of a branch (about 20-30cm long) and allowing it to dry at the base before inserting into well draining soil. They are also propagated via tissue culture both from cuttings of freshly elongated stems and via aseptically germinated [[seed]]. It is important to avoid contact with the poisonous sap, which can cause serious skin burns in some people. |
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| Cuttings may be taken at any time of the year, however, rooting appears to be most successful in spring and early summer. Plumeria cuttings may be stored in a warm and dry location for many months, but the best results are when the cuttings are allowed to root and grow within a few weeks of their separation from the donor plant. | | Cuttings may be taken at any time of the year, however, rooting appears to be most successful in spring and early summer. Plumeria cuttings may be stored in a warm and dry location for many months, but the best results are when the cuttings are allowed to root and grow within a few weeks of their separation from the donor plant. |