Difference between revisions of "Impatiens"

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Balsam, Impatiens Balsamina, Linn. (Balsdmina hortensis, DC. Balsamina Impatiens, Hort. Impatiens coccinea, Sims, B.M. 1256). Balsaminaceae. An erect, much-branched, half-succulent annual, long ago introduced from India, and now widely cultivated for its showy flowers.
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Plant 1½-2½ ft.: Lvs. lanceolate, toothed, the lower ones being mostly in pairs: fls. clustered in the axils of the Lvs., on very short stalks; sepals and petals similarly colored and not easily distinguished, one of the sepals (of which there seem to be 3) long-spurred; petals apparently 3, but 2 of them probably represent 2 united petals, thus making 5; stamens 5. The pod, shown in Figs. 450 and 451, is explosive. It has 5 carpels and very thin partitions, and seeds borne on axile placentae. When the caps. are ripe, a pinch or concussion will cause the valves to separate and contract the seeds being thrown with considerable force. The balsam has varied immensely in the doubling, size and color of its fls. and in the stature of the plant. It was known to Gerarde in 1596. The balsam is sometimes called "lady slipper," although this name is properly confined to Cypripedium, and used for Calceolaria.
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Practically all the garden balsams are now double or semi-double. The full-double forms are known as the camellia- flowered varieties. Fig. 452. In well-selected stock, the greater part of the flowers from any batch of seedlings should come very double. The colors range from white to dark blood-red, yellowish and spotted. Balsams are of very easy culture. They are tender, and should be started in thumb-pots or boxes indoors, or in the open when danger of frost is past. The seeds are large, and germinate quickly. The plants prefer a rich, sandy loam, and must not suffer for moisture Transplanting, and pinching-in the strong shoots, tend to make the plants dwarf and compact; two or three transplanting are often made. It is well to remove the first flower-buds, especially if the plants are not thoroughly established. Better results are secured when only a few main branches are allowed to grow, all the secondary and weak ones being pinched out. Sometimes they are pruned to a single stem, and if much room is given very large blooms are secured. The lower leaves may be removed if they obscure the flowers. Well-grown bushy plants should stand 2 feet apart each way, and the tall kinds will reach a height of 2 to 2½ feet. Good bloom is impossible if plants are crowded. For this reason, balsams do well in rows on the border of a garden where they may have room. Seed of the finest double strains is expensive, but inferior or common seed gives little satisfaction. Plants started early in May should give flowers in July, and should bloom until frost. A full-grown plant is shown in Fig. 453. At present, balsams are grown chiefly as flower-garden plants; but some years ago the flowers were largely used as "groundwork" in florists' designs, particularly the double white varieties. The flowers were wired to toothpicks, and were then thrust into the moss that formed the body of the design.
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Revision as of 18:50, 29 January 2010


Read about Impatiens in the Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture 

Balsam, Impatiens Balsamina, Linn. (Balsdmina hortensis, DC. Balsamina Impatiens, Hort. Impatiens coccinea, Sims, B.M. 1256). Balsaminaceae. An erect, much-branched, half-succulent annual, long ago introduced from India, and now widely cultivated for its showy flowers.

Plant 1½-2½ ft.: Lvs. lanceolate, toothed, the lower ones being mostly in pairs: fls. clustered in the axils of the Lvs., on very short stalks; sepals and petals similarly colored and not easily distinguished, one of the sepals (of which there seem to be 3) long-spurred; petals apparently 3, but 2 of them probably represent 2 united petals, thus making 5; stamens 5. The pod, shown in Figs. 450 and 451, is explosive. It has 5 carpels and very thin partitions, and seeds borne on axile placentae. When the caps. are ripe, a pinch or concussion will cause the valves to separate and contract the seeds being thrown with considerable force. The balsam has varied immensely in the doubling, size and color of its fls. and in the stature of the plant. It was known to Gerarde in 1596. The balsam is sometimes called "lady slipper," although this name is properly confined to Cypripedium, and used for Calceolaria.

Practically all the garden balsams are now double or semi-double. The full-double forms are known as the camellia- flowered varieties. Fig. 452. In well-selected stock, the greater part of the flowers from any batch of seedlings should come very double. The colors range from white to dark blood-red, yellowish and spotted. Balsams are of very easy culture. They are tender, and should be started in thumb-pots or boxes indoors, or in the open when danger of frost is past. The seeds are large, and germinate quickly. The plants prefer a rich, sandy loam, and must not suffer for moisture Transplanting, and pinching-in the strong shoots, tend to make the plants dwarf and compact; two or three transplanting are often made. It is well to remove the first flower-buds, especially if the plants are not thoroughly established. Better results are secured when only a few main branches are allowed to grow, all the secondary and weak ones being pinched out. Sometimes they are pruned to a single stem, and if much room is given very large blooms are secured. The lower leaves may be removed if they obscure the flowers. Well-grown bushy plants should stand 2 feet apart each way, and the tall kinds will reach a height of 2 to 2½ feet. Good bloom is impossible if plants are crowded. For this reason, balsams do well in rows on the border of a garden where they may have room. Seed of the finest double strains is expensive, but inferior or common seed gives little satisfaction. Plants started early in May should give flowers in July, and should bloom until frost. A full-grown plant is shown in Fig. 453. At present, balsams are grown chiefly as flower-garden plants; but some years ago the flowers were largely used as "groundwork" in florists' designs, particularly the double white varieties. The flowers were wired to toothpicks, and were then thrust into the moss that formed the body of the design.


The above text is from the Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture. It may be out of date, but still contains valuable and interesting information which can be incorporated into the remainder of the article. Click on "Collapse" in the header to hide this text.



Impatiens with double flowers


Plant Characteristics
Lifespan: perennials and annuals"perennials and annuals" is not in the list (perennial, annual, biennial, unknown) of allowed values for the "Lifespan" property.
Origin: [[Origin::Tropics of N Hemispherewp]]
Cultivation
Exposure: [[Exposure::vary by speciessn]]
Water: [[Water::regularsn]]
Features: flowers, naturalizes
Sunset Zones: [[Sunset zones::vary by speciessn]]
Scientific Names

Balsaminaceae >

Impatiens >


There are hundreds of species of Impatiens, though four are much more commonly grown in gardens than the restsn. Most are annuals, or perennials treated as annualssn. They are grown for their flowers, which continue until frost. When the seed capsules are ripe, they explode upon being lightly touched, shooting little seeds around.sn Stems are usually succulentRH, and flowers, which may be solitary or in groups, usually have 3 (or rarely 5) sepalsRH. In some species the lowest sepal is large and extended backwards into a spurRH.

The most popular is Impatiens walleriana, which has a wide palate of colors, is easy to grow in both sun and shade, and blooms continuously unless a frost kills it back. This may be the most popular bedding plant in Americasn.

Four most commonly grown:

Cultivation

Need moist soil, good drainage, humus-rich soil, as well as a cool site (except for I. mirabilis)RH. Perennials should be kept relatively dry in the winter dormancy periodRH. Pinch plants regularly if you want to keep them bushyRH, otherwise some can get leggy. For tall-flowering I. balsamina shoots, remove the side shoots and initial flower budsRH.

Most are frost tender, but I. glandulifera, I. noli-tangere and I. capensis can not only survive, but self-sow where winter temperatures drop to -15°C (5°F)RH. These species can also become invasive in ideal conditions.

Propagation

Seed can be short lived in some speciesRH, sow as fresh as possible. Softwood cuttings can be taken of plants you likeRH.

Seeds of frost-sensitive sorts should be planted under glass in spring, then picked out and planted in individual pots of loamless or loam of medium fertilityRH. Grow in a sunny, airy spot, free of frost, and pinch to keep compactRH. Plant outdoors only after danger of frost is passed, and water well.

Softwood cuttings can be taken in spring, and placed in soilless potting mix, best with some bottom heatRH.

Pests and diseases

Main article: List of impatiens diseases

Red spider mites and aphids can be a problem, especially under glassRH. Grey mold can cause flower buds to shrivelRH. Impatiens species are used as food plants by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species including Dot Mothwp.

Species

Impatiens namchabarwensis
Impatiens rosulata
Impatiens parviflora
Himalayan Balsam
Impatiens capensis

There are about 850RH species of Impatiens, including:

Gallery

If you have a photo of this plant, please upload it! Plus, there may be other photos available for you to add.

References

External links