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Paeonia (after the mythical physician Paeon). Ranunculaceae. Peony. Piney. Paeony. Specially attractive and important flower-garden perennials, prized for the showy spring and early summer bloom.

Paeonia (after the mythical physician Paeon). Ranunculaceae. Peony. Piney. Paeony. Specially attractive and important flower-garden perennials, prized for the showy spring and early summer bloom.

In delicacy of tint and fragrance, the peony more nearly approaches the rose than any other flower. The old-fashioned early red "piny," cultivated since the time of Pliny, is still a favorite in our gardens. Nearly all of the many hundred named varieties grown at present have been obtained by crossing the various forms of P. albiflora. Of the great host of double varieties, nearly all have been developed since 1850. The single-flowering sorts are not so popular as the doubles. They do not seem to keep so long when cut, and fade more rapidly when on the plant.

In delicacy of tint and fragrance, the peony more nearly approaches the rose than any other flower. The old-fashioned early red "piny," cultivated since the time of Pliny, is still a favorite in our gardens. Nearly all of the many hundred named varieties grown at present have been obtained by crossing the various forms of P. albiflora. Of the great host of double varieties, nearly all have been developed since 1850. The single-flowering sorts are not so popular as the doubles. They do not seem to keep so long when cut, and fade more rapidly when on the plant.

 

 

 

 

 

Peonies grow in all kinds of soil, but do best in a deep, rich, rather moist loan. A clay subsoil, if well drained, is very beneficial when blooms are desired, but the tubers ramify more in lighter soil if grown for propagating purposes. In preparing the bed. trench the soil thoroughly 2 or more feet deep, working in a great quantity of well-rooted cow-manure, as the plants are gross feeders. The ground should be kept well tilled, and an annual top-dressing put above the plants in November ; this should be forked into the earth the next spring. They should have a liberal supply of water at all times, and especially while in bloom. Liquid manure, when applied in the growing season and at a time when the ground is dry, gives good returns, both in the growth of the plant and size of the bloom.

Peonies grow in all kinds of soil, but do best in a deep, rich, rather moist loan. A clay subsoil, if well drained, is very beneficial when blooms are desired, but the tubers ramify more in lighter soil if grown for propagating purposes. In preparing the bed. trench the soil thoroughly 2 or more feet deep, working in a great quantity of well-rooted cow-manure, as the plants are gross feeders. The ground should be kept well tilled, and an annual top-dressing put above the plants in November ; this should be forked into the earth the next spring. They should have a liberal supply of water at all times, and especially while in bloom. Liquid manure, when applied in the growing season and at a time when the ground is dry, gives good returns, both in the growth of the plant and size of the bloom.

For forcing, lift the plants in September and place in a coldframe where they will be accessible when the time for forcing arrives. When brought under glass, a uniform temperature of 55°to 60° should be maintained. By feeding well with liquid manure, strong blooms can be produced in eight weeks. A two years rest is necessary before the plants are forced again. To secure extra-fine blooms on double-flowering varieties, remove the lateral buds as soon as formed. When the first lateral bud is retained instead of the terminal one, a later period of blooming is secured.

For forcing, lift the plants in September and place in a coldframe where they will be accessible when the time for forcing arrives. When brought under glass, a uniform temperature of 55°to 60° should be maintained. By feeding well with liquid manure, strong blooms can be produced in eight weeks. A two years rest is necessary before the plants are forced again. To secure extra-fine blooms on double-flowering varieties, remove the lateral buds as soon as formed. When the first lateral bud is retained instead of the terminal one, a later period of blooming is secured.

Diseases. (A. C. Beal.)

The easiest and most satisfactory method of propagation is by division of the large, thick roots. The roots may be lifted and divided any time from the middle of August until the stalks appear again in the spring. The best time, however, is in early autumn, when the cut surfaces soon callus over and new rootlets form before the frost sets in. Choose a large stool, cut off the leaves and separate into as many divisions as can be made with an eye to each tuber. In digging, care should be taken that all of the tubers are dug up, for if not they may remain dormant a season and then produce a shoot, giving rise to the many stray plants frequently found in old beds. Tubers divided without an eye should also be planted, as they often act in a similar way and make a showing above ground in two years'time. Peonies, like most tuberous plants, when dormant stand considerable exposure and can be shipped long distances with safety.

Among the peony diseases, the most prevalent and destructive is the botrytis blight, which attacks the stems, buds, and leaves. Early in the spring the young stems are attacked at the surface of the ground. The tissue turns black, and later the stems wilt and fall over. Sometimes this trouble is seen as late as the following season. The use of green manure appears to favor the attacks of the disease, and only well-rotted manure or mineral fertilizers should be employed. Later, the young flower-buds are attacked, and these turn black and dry up. This is the so-called "bud- blast." When the buds are not attacked until they are well developed, they turn brown and fail to open. The petals are then found to be a dark brown rotten mass, and this is known as the "bud-rot." In very wet seasons, as high ae 80 to 90 per cent of the buds may be thus affected. Even the flowers may be discolored by spots resulting from this fungus. The leaves are usually the last to be attacked, and the symptoms are large irregular spots which become brown and dry.

Grafting is resorted to in herbaceous peonies when new and rare varieties are to be rapidly increased. An eye of the desired sort is inserted into the tuber of some strong-growing variety, from which all the previous eyes have been removed. This operation is usually performed in August. The grafted plants should be placed in frames for the winter and transplanted the next year into nursery rows.

While control methods have not been devised against this and other peony diseases, it is probable that sanitary measures will prove to be most practicable. The prompt and thorough removal of the wilted stems and rotted buds, together with the complete destruction by fire of all leaves and stems in the fall, will tend to lessen the extent of diseases the following year. For an account of peony diseases by a specialist, see Whetzel, "American Florist," April 10, 1915.

Propagating by seed is somewhat tedious, and is employed only for increasing distinct species and for obtaining new varieties. The seeds should be gathered as soon as ripe and kept damp until sown in November. A mulch the first season will keep the ground moist and prevent weeds from growing. Usually two years are required for the seed to germinate and three more before a well-developed bloom can be expected.

 

albo-plena, 15. Delavayi, 1, 6. papaveracea, 5.

cretica, 18.

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==Cultivation==

===Pests and diseases===

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Among the peony diseases, the most prevalent and destructive is the botrytis blight, which attacks the stems, buds, and leaves. Early in the spring the young stems are attacked at the surface of the ground. The tissue turns black, and later the stems wilt and fall over. Sometimes this trouble is seen as late as the following season. The use of green manure appears to favor the attacks of the disease, and only well-rotted manure or mineral fertilizers should be employed. Later, the young flower-buds are attacked, and these turn black and dry up. This is the so-called "bud- blast." When the buds are not attacked until they are well developed, they turn brown and fail to open. The petals are then found to be a dark brown rotten mass, and this is known as the "bud-rot." In very wet seasons, as high ae 80 to 90 per cent of the buds may be thus affected. Even the flowers may be discolored by spots resulting from this fungus. The leaves are usually the last to be attacked, and the symptoms are large irregular spots which become brown and dry.

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===Pests and diseases===

==Species==

<!-- This section should be renamed Cultivars if it appears on a page for a species (rather than genus), or perhaps Varieties if there is a mix of cultivars, species, hybrids, etc    -->

*[[Paeonia albo-plena]]

*[[Paeonia flore-pleno]]

*[[Paeonia roseo-superba]]

*[[Paeonia rubro-plena]]

==Gallery==

==Gallery==