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Pineapple. The pineapple (see Ananas) is indigenous to America. It produces one of the most delicious fruits now regularly on the markets. The finest qualities are developed when the fruit is permitted to ripen naturally upon the plant. For distant markets the crop has to be gathered in varying degrees of unripeness to suit the time required in transit.

Pineapple. The pineapple (see Ananas) is indigenous to America. It produces one of the most delicious fruits now regularly on the markets. The finest qualities are developed when the fruit is permitted to ripen naturally upon the plant. For distant markets the crop has to be gathered in varying degrees of unripeness to suit the time required in transit.

The year 1850 seems to be the earliest date at which pineapple-growing was attempted in the United States. This attempt was made near St. Augustine, Florida, according to Taylor. In 1860, planting was begun on

The year 1850 seems to be the earliest date at which pineapple-growing was attempted in the United States. This attempt was made near St. Augustine, Florida, according to Taylor. In 1860, planting was begun on the Keys, but the want of facilities for rapid transportation and the more favored Cuban and Porto Rican plantations, made the development slow. In 1897, about $15,000 worth was imported from the Hawaiian Islands.

 

the Keys, but the want of facilities for rapid transportation and the more favored Cuban and Porto Rican plantations, made the development slow. In 1897, about $15,000 worth was imported from the Hawaiian Islands.

Good pineapple land may usually be obtained for $25 to $100 an acre, the higher-priced land being in favored locations at railway stations and near settlements. The cost of clearing and preparing varies from $20 to $80 an acre, according to the cost of labor and the character of the growth on the land.

Good pineapple land may usually be obtained for $25 to $100 an acre, the higher-priced land being in favored locations at railway stations and near settlements. The cost of clearing and preparing varies from $20 to $80 an acre, according to the cost of labor and the character of the growth on the land.

With conditions of soil as described above, it is imperative to fertilize, and under the existing conditions in the pineapple belt there is no other remedy than the addition of commercial fertilizers, and nothing better. While much is still to be learned about fertilizing this crop, it is fairly well established that for pineapples on spruce-pine land, dried blood, ground bone, and nitrate of soda are good sources of nitrogen; that low-grade sulfate of potash, carbonate of potash and high-grade sulfate of potash are good sources of potash; that acid phosphate should be used in small quantities only or avoided, using pulverized bone instead. A good plan for fertilizing is to drop a small handful of cottonseed meal into the bud immediately after setting out. In October, apply about 600 pounds blood and bone and 400 pounds low-grade sulfate of potash (not kainit) to the acre, or the equivalent of these fertilizers in some of the forms mentioned above. A second application may be made the following February; at this time the amount may be increased 10 to 25 per cent, according to the growth the plants have made. A third application may be made in June or July; and if the plants have grown vigorously a still further increase in amount may be made. A fourth application may be made in October, increasing the amount if the plants have grown vigorously. The succeeding applications may be made at the tune suggested above, and the increasing and decreasing of the amounts may be determined by the progress of the plants. As the average spruce-pine pineapple land is not sufficiently fertile to grow a full crop of pineapples, much more depends upon proper fertilizing than any other one operation.

With conditions of soil as described above, it is imperative to fertilize, and under the existing conditions in the pineapple belt there is no other remedy than the addition of commercial fertilizers, and nothing better. While much is still to be learned about fertilizing this crop, it is fairly well established that for pineapples on spruce-pine land, dried blood, ground bone, and nitrate of soda are good sources of nitrogen; that low-grade sulfate of potash, carbonate of potash and high-grade sulfate of potash are good sources of potash; that acid phosphate should be used in small quantities only or avoided, using pulverized bone instead. A good plan for fertilizing is to drop a small handful of cottonseed meal into the bud immediately after setting out. In October, apply about 600 pounds blood and bone and 400 pounds low-grade sulfate of potash (not kainit) to the acre, or the equivalent of these fertilizers in some of the forms mentioned above. A second application may be made the following February; at this time the amount may be increased 10 to 25 per cent, according to the growth the plants have made. A third application may be made in June or July; and if the plants have grown vigorously a still further increase in amount may be made. A fourth application may be made in October, increasing the amount if the plants have grown vigorously. The succeeding applications may be made at the tune suggested above, and the increasing and decreasing of the amounts may be determined by the progress of the plants. As the average spruce-pine pineapple land is not sufficiently fertile to grow a full crop of pineapples, much more depends upon proper fertilizing than any other one operation.

This plant is propagated by means of crowns, slips, suckers, and rattoons. The crown is the leafy part  

This plant is propagated by means of crowns, slips, suckers, and rattoons. The crown is the leafy part of the fruit as found in the market. Just below the fruit small plants form, which are left in the field when the fruit is gathered; these are known as slips. In the axils of the leaves buds occur; those that develop near the ground make strong plants in a few months and are known as suckers. (Fig. 2952, after Wester.) A strong plant will mature an "apple" in June and produce two to five suckers by the middle of September. Buds that develop from an underground part and form a rootsystem independent of the parent plant are known as rattoons. Crowns are not planted extensively, as they remain on the fruit when marketed. Good strong suckers are usually employed for planting out. Rattoons are left in the field to replace the plants which have borne a crop, but they are not sufficiently numerous to make a full stand; hence some of the suckers must be left also. Slips require a year longer than suckers to mature a crop. According to Webber, it requires ten to twelve years to mature a plant from seed. Plants are raised from seed only for breeding purposes.

 

 

of the fruit as found in the market. Just below the fruit small plants form, which are left in the field when the fruit is gathered; these are known as slips. In the axils of the leaves buds occur; those that develop near the ground make strong plants in a few months and are known as suckers. (Fig. 2952, after Wester.) A strong plant will mature an "apple" in June and produce two to five suckers by the middle of September. Buds that

 

develop from an underground part and form a rootsystem independent of the parent plant are known as rattoons. Crowns are not planted extensively, as they remain on the fruit when marketed. Good strong suckers are usually employed for planting out. Rattoons are left in the field to replace the plants which have borne a crop, but they are not sufficiently numerous to make a full stand; hence some of the suckers must be left also. Slips require a year longer than suckers to mature a crop. According to Webber, it requires ten to twelve years to mature a plant from seed. Plants are raised from seed only for breeding purposes.

If spruce-pine land is prepared it is cleared of all stumps, wood, roots, and any other organic material, and is plowed deep and leveled off smooth. The fields are then laid off in beds of six or eight rows wide, depending on the variety. The beds should be narrow enough to permit fertilizing and working with a scuffle -hoe without entering the beds, as breaking the leaves is very detrimental. For Red Spanish the rows are made 18 to 20 inches apart; for Queens, 20 to 22 inches; for Porto Ricos, 30 to 36 inches. They are usually placed in checks of about the same distances.

If spruce-pine land is prepared it is cleared of all stumps, wood, roots, and any other organic material, and is plowed deep and leveled off smooth. The fields are then laid off in beds of six or eight rows wide, depending on the variety. The beds should be narrow enough to permit fertilizing and working with a scuffle -hoe without entering the beds, as breaking the leaves is very detrimental. For Red Spanish the rows are made 18 to 20 inches apart; for Queens, 20 to 22 inches; for Porto Ricos, 30 to 36 inches. They are usually placed in checks of about the same distances.

The methods employed on the Keys are quite different. The land is cleared by cutting off the trees, shrubs, and the like, which are allowed to dry and are then burned. The plants are then set out with a grubbing- hoe; they must be set out irregularly, as the rocky soil does not furnish root-hold everywhere. Such fields become exhausted in a few years and have to be abandoned.

The methods employed on the Keys are quite different. The land is cleared by cutting off the trees, shrubs, and the like, which are allowed to dry and are then burned. The plants are then set out with a grubbing- hoe; they must be set out irregularly, as the rocky soil does not furnish root-hold everywhere. Such fields become exhausted in a few years and have to be abandoned.

Cultivation consists in running over the ground with a scuffle-hoe. When the plantation is set out in beds the handle of the hoe is long enough to permit cultivating to the middle without the laborer entering the bed. Only about an inch of the surface soil is agitated, usually immediately after the fertilfer has been applied. Weeds are not troublesome, excepting in fields that have been cultivated a long time. Under sheds tillage is more frequent and appears to be more necessary. On the Keys no tillage is possible, but tall- growing weeds and such ligneous plants as may spring: up are cut off. In all of the work among pineapple

Cultivation consists in running over the ground with a scuffle-hoe. When the plantation is set out in beds the handle of the hoe is long enough to permit cultivating to the middle without the laborer entering the bed. Only about an inch of the surface soil is agitated, usually immediately after the fertilfer has been applied. Weeds are not troublesome, excepting in fields that have been cultivated a long time. Under sheds tillage is more frequent and appears to be more necessary. On the Keys no tillage is possible, but tall- growing weeds and such ligneous plants as may spring: up are cut off. In all of the work among pineapple plants the greatest care should be exercised to avoid breaking the leaves, which are very brittle.

 

plants the greatest care should be exercised to avoid breaking the leaves, which are very brittle.

The fruit is picked a week before it would mature. It is packed at once into barrel (12 by 20 by 36 inches) and half-barrel (12 by 10 by 36 inches) crates, usually in the latter, the different sizes being packed in separate crates and designated as 18's, 24's, 30's, 36's, 42's, 48's, and 54's, according to the number required for a half- barrel crate. The fruit must be handled without being bruised and packed firmly to prevent its abrasion in transit. To protect the fruit each one is wrapped separately in brown paper.

The fruit is picked a week before it would mature. It is packed at once into barrel (12 by 20 by 36 inches) and half-barrel (12 by 10 by 36 inches) crates, usually in the latter, the different sizes being packed in separate crates and designated as 18's, 24's, 30's, 36's, 42's, 48's, and 54's, according to the number required for a half- barrel crate. The fruit must be handled without being bruised and packed firmly to prevent its abrasion in transit. To protect the fruit each one is wrapped separately in brown paper.

The following diseases and insects attack pineapples:  

The following diseases and insects attack pineapples:  

(1) Heart-rot; bitter-heart: The cause of this disease is not known, but it seems to lie more prevalent in a rainy season than in a dry one. It manifests itself by the portion around the heart taking on a water-soaked appearance. This condition progresses outward until the whole apple is involved. It is not necessarily accompanied by rotting, although this usually follows. The whole apple becomes bitter, even before it is entirely involved. When this disease is present in a field, the fruit should be marketed as soon as possible, that the apples may be consumed before becoming badly affected. (2) Sanding: This disorder occurs immediately after setting out, especially if a long dry spell occurs at this time. It is produced by sand being blown into and filling the bud of plants. Immediately after setting out, drop into the bud a small handful of cottonseed-meal, or the same amount of a mixture of one part ground tobacco stems and three or four parts cottonseed-meal. This soon forms a firm plug in the

(1) Heart-rot; bitter-heart: The cause of this disease is not known, but it seems to lie more prevalent in a rainy season than in a dry one. It manifests itself by the portion around the heart taking on a water-soaked appearance. This condition progresses outward until the whole apple is involved. It is not necessarily accompanied by rotting, although this usually follows. The whole apple becomes bitter, even before it is entirely involved. When this disease is present in a field, the fruit should be marketed as soon as possible, that the apples may be consumed before becoming badly affected. (2) Sanding: This disorder occurs immediately after setting out, especially if a long dry spell occurs at this time. It is produced by sand being blown into and filling the bud of plants. Immediately after setting out, drop into the bud a small handful of cottonseed-meal, or the same amount of a mixture of one part ground tobacco stems and three or four parts cottonseed-meal. This soon forms a firm plug in the bud, keeping out sand but not interfering with growth. Blood and bone, or blood, bone and tankage, may also be used. (3) Spike; longleaf: This disease manifests itself by the leaves failing to expand at the base, thus giving the plant a contracted appearance. The outer portion of the leaf spreads from the center of the plant, but usually fails to take on a broad flat healthy appearance. Experiments have proved that this disease may be produced by improper use of commercial fertilizers, although the disease has occurred where no fertilizer had been used. Abundant evidence is at hand to show that the disease is not due to an organic agent but rather to untoward condition in the soil. Change the fertilizer, avoiding acid phosphate, kainit, and cottonseed-meal in large quantities, and give protection as by a pineapple shed (spike is a rare thing under sheds). (4) Blight; wilt: This disease occurs in a sporadic manner, usually without any apparent regularity. In some varieties the first intimation of blight is by the outer end of the leaves turning red, and later by the tips wilting. This wilting progresses until the entire plant has dried up. According to Webber the direct cause is a soil- inhabiting fungus which attacks the roots. Remove the wilted plants and set in healthy ones. If the plants are of valuable varieties trim off all diseased roots and much of the stem, together with larger leaves, and reset. It is probable that the fungus will not survive until the roots again penetrate the soil. (5) Red-spider (Stig- maeus floridanus): This species attacks the tender white portion at the base of the leaves. The effect upon the plant is greatly out of proportion to the small amount of injury to the parts attacked. In later stages the leaves rot off at the place attacked. Drop a small handful of tobacco dust into the bud of the plants.

 

bud, keeping out sand but not interfering with growth. Blood and bone, or blood, bone and tankage, may also be used. (3) Spike; longleaf: This disease manifests itself by the leaves failing to expand at the base, thus giving the plant a contracted appearance. The outer portion of the leaf spreads from the center of the plant, but usually fails to take on a broad flat healthy appearance. Experiments have proved that this disease may be produced by improper use of commercial fertilizers, although the disease has occurred where no fertilizer had been used. Abundant evidence is at hand to show that the disease is not due to an organic agent but rather to untoward condition in the soil. Change the fertilizer, avoiding acid phosphate, kainit, and cottonseed-meal in large quantities, and give protection as by a pineapple shed (spike is a rare thing under sheds). (4) Blight; wilt: This disease occurs in a sporadic manner, usually without any apparent regularity. In some varieties the first intimation of blight is by the outer end of the leaves turning red, and later by the tips wilting. This wilting progresses until the entire plant has dried up. According to Webber the direct cause is a soil- inhabiting fungus which attacks the roots. Remove the wilted plants and set in healthy ones. If the plants are of valuable varieties trim off all diseased roots and much of the stem, together with larger leaves, and reset. It is probable that the fungus will not survive until the roots again penetrate the soil. (5) Red-spider (Stig- maeus floridanus): This species attacks the tender white portion at the base of the leaves. The effect upon the plant is greatly out of proportion to the small amount of injury to the parts attacked. In later stages the leaves rot off at the place attacked. Drop a small handful of tobacco dust into the bud of the plants.

Subsequent rains and dews leach the tobacco and carry the solution down to the red-spiders. If they are not all dead in a week or ten days, repeat the dose. (6) Scale insect (Diaspis bromeliae): This scale insect becomes troublesome in dry localities and in greenhouses. The insect usually attacks the lower surface of the leaf, but each point of attack shows through as a yellow spot or blotch on the upper surface. Spray with resin wash, resin compound, or whale-oil soap. (7) Mealy-bugs (Dactylopius citri and other species): These insects attack the base of the leaves just at or below the ground-level; also the bud, and when fruit matures they multiply in great numbers among the slips and in the eyes of the fruit itself. The remedy is the same as for scale insects, but it is very difficult to make the application effective. When the mealy-bugs are present before the fruit-bud forms, much good can be done by applying a large handful of tobacco dust in the axils of the lvs.  

Subsequent rains and dews leach the tobacco and carry the solution down to the red-spiders. If they are not all dead in a week or ten days, repeat the dose. (6) Scale insect (Diaspis bromeliae): This scale insect becomes troublesome in dry localities and in greenhouses. The insect usually attacks the lower surface of the leaf, but each point of attack shows through as a yellow spot or blotch on the upper surface. Spray with resin wash, resin compound, or whale-oil soap. (7) Mealy-bugs (Dactylopius citri and other species): These insects attack the base of the leaves just at or below the ground-level; also the bud, and when fruit matures they multiply in great numbers among the slips and in the eyes of the fruit itself. The remedy is the same as for scale insects, but it is very difficult to make the application effective. When the mealy-bugs are present before the fruit-bud forms, much good can be done by applying a large handful of tobacco dust in the axils of the lvs.  

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==Cultivation==

==Cultivation==