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Planting. This Cyclopedia considers or kinds horticultural work, the growing of plants, and the identifying of plants. The latter purpose runs through every generic entry, throughout the alphabet. The instructions for growing are combined with these generic entries, and are also extended in many separate articles, under the popular names of the plants themselves, as Rose, Strawberry, Carnation, Lettuce, Mushroom, and many others; and they are also displayed in class articles, as Alpine Plants, Kitchen-Gardening, Annuals, Biennials, Perennials, Herbs, Orchids, Palms, Arboriculture, and many others.
At this point, another set of class articles is assembled, with the purpose to bring together such instruction as is commonly associated with what is known as "planting,"—with the use of plants in the open and particularly in relation to their uses as a part of a landscape development. In connection with this symposium, the reader will naturally give special attention to the assembly on Herbs in Vol. III and on Landscape Gardening in Vol. IV. Inasmuch as trees are discussed under Arboriculture and herbaceous plants under Herbs, the present treatment is mostly of shrubs. (Figs. 3001-3005,3011-12, are adapted from "Garden and Forest.")
This symposium on planting has the following parts:
Page
The relation of planting to the fundamental design (Pilat).. . .2657
Village improvement in relation to planting (Waugh) 2658
Shrubbery in the landscape (L. H. B., Simonds) 2660
Woods in the landscape (Manning) 2662
Wild-gardening (Miller) 2663
Bog-gardening (Taylor) 2666
Water-gardening (Tricker) 2668
Subtropical-gardening (Manning) 2669
Plants for the seaside (Manning) 2670
Succulent plants (Thompson) 2672
Topiary planting and garden architecture (Montillon) 2675
Planting for winter effect (Miller) 2677
Planting on walls (Miller) 2680
Screen-planting (Curtis) 2681
Winter protection of planting (Egan, Watson) 2684
Shrubs, small trees, and woody vines (Curtis) 2690
Shrubs for the Middle West (Miller) 2693
Shrubs for street and park planting (Mulford) 2694
Shrubs for midcontinental regions (Irish) 2694
Shrubs and climbers for the South (Berekmans) 2696
Ornamental shrubs for California (Gregg and Stevens) 2700
Vines for California (Gregg, Stevens and Jones) 2705
The relation of planting to the fundamental design.
It is the business of the landscape architect to combine beauty and utility into a harmonious composition. The artistic aim in the practice of landscape architecture is to produce beautiful pictures. To achieve such pictures, the creative imagination must be controlled by familiarity with the accepted canons of design. Good design in landscape work must be based on the fundamental principles of art and the laws of nature. Fitness, proportion, variety, mystery or intricacy, unity, and harmony,—all these must be considered.
While it is the aim, in creating landscape gardens and parks, to produce natural effects, the best results are not necessarily secured by a mere imitation of nature as it happens to exist in a given locality. It is possible to modify nature to fit artificial conditions; and by changing the scale, by adding new features, or making different combinations, compositions may be produced which have all the charm of a natural scene, yet surpass nature in beauty and interest. Varied emotions are produced by different compositions. Sometimes the mood is gay, as in flower-gardens. Awe, wonder, and admiration are produced by the large natural features,— rocks, cliffs, canons, waterfalls, the mountains,and the sea. Mystery and intricacy are conceived by rambles through the dense woods and jungles. Rest, peace, tranquillity are suggested by certain woodland scenes, a sheltered lake, or a meadow with a meandering stream. The sense of deliberation, dignity, and maturity is produced by the stately arched trees of avenue or mall, and by groves of matured trees.
Many laymen and artists think of landscape architecture only as a decorative art; and to their minds planting is of value only in so far as the foliage hides some ugly foundation, softens hard lines or relieves bare spaces, screens some unsightly view or forms a setting for an architectural feature. Sculptors and architects especially are prone to think that the most charming natural parts of our public parks are suitable sites for memorials in stone and statues in marble and bronze. They reason that the spreading branches of the trees and the background of foliage will enhance the beauty of their work of art. Their thought is of their own creation and they fail to realize that by introducing an artificial object, no matter how beautiful it may be in itself, the harmony and beauty of the natural scene may be destroyed.
From the point of view of the landscape architect, planting is not merely a superficial decorative process. He considers the arrangement and disposition of the foliage-masses as well as the modeling of the earth's surfaces to be fundamental in landscape design. Necessary buildings, roads, paths, and other artificial features, must be provided for use and enjoyment; but the best design is the one that succeeds in effectively obscuring or subduing these necessary objects in the landscape and still provides fully the facilities required for use, shelter, and other enjoyments of the people.
While design is the main consideration in creating a landscape, nature, life, and time are necessary for the completion of the design and the full development of its beauty. The beauty of a landscape is dependent largely on the green living things, as trees, shrubs, grass; but the success of the picture is due more to the disposition and arrangement of the material than to the materials themselves. Therefore, it sometimes happens that a thorough knowledge of horticulture, especially when this knowledge is combined with great enthusiasm and, perhaps, with an added interest in botany, is a decided handicap to the success of the amateur designer. The horticultural features are overemphasized at the expense of the composition. Many places and parks that were originally well designed have been robbed of their charm and beauty and landscape effects, because of the interest and enthusiasm on the part of gardeners, owners of estates, or park commissioners in horticultural things. In the conviction that they are embellishing the beauty of a glade, valley, lawn, or meadow, they proceed to cover these open spaces with rare specimens of trees and shrubs, thus destroying the arrangement. Open areas should not be considered as waste space.
A landscape design may be either formal or natural. The character of the planting of formal gardens and terraces and the embellishment of buildings by planting should be in harmony with the type of architecture and with the nature of the site of the garden of the garden and its relation to the house. In the design of a natural landscape, the three general classes of planting material- woods, shrubbery, and lawns or meadows— should intermingle to a certain extent, and yet be so arranged as to present in general an open central feature of lawn or meadow, with the masses of foliage surrounding. This provides unity, and the broad masses of light and shade produce a pleasing composition.
The outlines of the lawn or meadow should be irregular, and their limits somewhat obscured. Now and then trees or groups should be introduced, especially near the boundaries of the lawn, to add diversity and interest; the shadows will relieve the monotonous expanse of light. To design effective plantations, a Knowledge of planting material, a conception of composition, and imagination and taste are requisite.
In planting, the landscape architect is more concerned with the color, texture, form, and size of flowers and foliage than with botanical families or with cultural requirements of plants; still, in order to design places and parks that will be in harmony with the general surroundings and to use material that will thrive, he must be familiar with the indigenous plant material, and know what soil conditions and locations are suitable for their peculiar needs. However, it must not be assumed that only those trees, shrubs, and plants that grow in the immediate vicinity may be used; but, in the creation of the natural landscape, the native plants and trees should predominate.
The most important planting material used by the landscape architect is "grass seed." Ordinarily grass is not considered in the general conception of planting, but most landscape architects and many laymen realize that grass in the form of lawns and meadows is the most significant feature of our naturalistic landscapes. Its value when used within formal lines, the tapis vert and terrace, are generally recognized. It is not far-fetched to say that grass is the most important planting material used in the creation of landscape in this climate.
Lawns and meadows provide color, texture, motion of the waving meadows, the play of light and the shadows of clouds and trees. The covering of grass over earth enhances the beauty of the contours and the modeling of the earth's surfaces—knolls, valleys, glades, and plains. The effects of space, breadth, dignity, and distant views are dependent upon the proper framing of open spaces with foliage. Indeed, open spaces, whether in the form of sea, lakes, or streams, lawns or meadows, sand-dunes or even paved spaces, are one of the most important elements in landscape design. C. F. Pilat.
Village improvement in relation to planting.
Village improvement is a branch of civic art. Civic art in turn may be defined as the conservation, improvement, and utilization of public property. Village improvement thus takes its place alongside of town-planning, country-planning, the development of garden cities, and other work of a similar nature. The public-property test may be rather strictly applied to all branches of civic improvement, including village improvement, for while village improvement does in fact undertake extensive work upon private grounds, this is undertaken solely in the public interest.
In village improvement it is rather important to fix attention upon the village or small town as a permanent unit. For the most part, the small towns of America have had notable ambitions for growth. Each one has intended to grow up into a state capital or a large manufacturing center. On this account it has been impracticable to make intelligent plans for the actual circumstances, that is for an indefinite period of existence without further expansion. The growth problem, while it is largely a psychological factor, is a very important one in connection with village life and development. It is a problem which should be seriously faced. Each community should understand its actual circumstances and its ambitions, if it is to make any real improvement in its condition.
Inasmuch as civic improvement is based upon public property, the scope of its work may be outlined rather strictly by the extent and character of property owned in any community. The more important types of public property, with some discussion of the problems attached to their improvement, are taken up herewith. The illustrations and plans (Figs. 2991-2996) suggest some of the important phases, particularly as related to planting.
Streets.—Streets and public roads constitute perhaps the most important mass of public property in each community. They are absolutely indispensable and have a very high monetary value judged by any scale whatever. Road and street improvement is always looked upon as a practical benefit to the community and may, therefore, naturally and properly become the starting-point of general village improvement. Street improvement should be studied with reference to (a) location, (b) design, (c) construction, (d) furnishings, (e) maintenance. (a) The location of streets and roads is generally looked upon as an inviolable accomplishment, yet many roads and streets can be, and should be relocated, or altogether abandoned. In other places new streets should be provided. (b) Some streets ought to be straight, some ought to be curved, some ought to be wide, some should be narrow. Some should be provided with wide grass verges, with rows of trees and with parkings. In other parts of the village, streets should have no such furnishings. In fact, each street should be made a study by itself, and should be properly designed
for its special conditions, (c) All streets, of course, should be well constructed. Macadam and tarvia are good materials. However, there are many streets which do not need such expensive improvement. The problems of street construction are generally fairly well studied, but of course, final and perfectly satisfactory results are never achieved, (d) Besides the trees in the street, there are many other things to be considered, such as guide-posts, letter-boxes, and especially telephone, electric-light, and trolley poles. All these furnishings should be made as satisfactory as possible. Especially in the matter of poles the ideal is to reduce their number to the minimum, (e) All streets need to be kept in good repair and to be kept clean. These are always important matters, but they cost considerably more care, labor, and money than most persons imagine. Village improvement can nearly always make considerable progress in this one point of keeping the streets clean and in good condition.
Transportation may be reckoned as the second great problem of village improvement. The development of attractive railroad station-grounds, by proper planting of trees, shrubs, and grass is a matter always to be looked after. In rural communities, at the present time, with the large development of trolley service, the design and location of first-class trolley waiting stations becomes a matter of great importance and should receive careful attention.
Schoolhouses and school-grounds constitute a very important type of public property, and every campaign of village improvement should look after them carefully. School-grounds should be kept clean and orderly and should have some tree plantings. Wherever possible there should be grass, but the improvement of school-grounds with flower-beds is almost out of the question. Perhaps the most insistent problem of the improvement of the school-grounds themselves, lies in securing adequate area, which should be from 2 to 5 acres for each school instead of the 1/4 acre commonly allowed.
Playgrounds are very much needed in every village and rural community. The problems connected with them are, (1) to secure the necessary allotment of land; (2) to have this ground properly planned and developed, (3) to have the play properly supervised. The embellishment will consist chiefly of large trees for shade and to improve the appearance. Flower-beds and borders are quite out of place on playgrounds.
Reservations of several sorts are needed in every village. These should be primarily for recreation, but should include also places of historic importance or those of great scenic beauty.
Public buildings, including churches, libraries, grange halls, town halls, and the like, must be of the best character in order to secure proper results in village development. All these public buildings should be studied with reference to adaptation to use, proper location, grouping with other public buildings, good architectural design, and substantial construction. The grounds about these public buildings should be developed to the best possible advantage. As a rule, shady lawns with good substantial trees give the best result.
Home-grounds are of prime significance in every community and every village-improvement society should undertake to secure the best treatment of them possible. Neighborhood competitions are useful to this end but sound horticultural instruction is always necessary.
The more strictly horticultural phases of village improvement, therefore, are the planting and care of trees, the development of grass areas, especially lawns, home-garden improvement with some emphasis upon front yards, and school-garden enterprises of several sorts.
In the care of trees on public streets and grounds, a competent tree-warden is greatly to be desired. When state legislation provides for such an officer he should be chosen with great care and supported with reasonable appropriations of public funds; and in states where tree-wardens are not provided for by law such legislation should be secured as soon as possible. The Massachusetts law is perhaps as good a pattern as any.
Street trees are subject to severe injuries even beyond the liability of other shade trees, such as the damage from leaky electric wires and gas-pipes, gnawing of horses, and sometimes the attacks of ignorant linemen putting up wires. Add to these the usual menace of insect attacks, such as elm leaf-beetle, leopard moth, forest caterpillar, gipsy moth, and the like, and it will be seen that the protection of valuable street trees is a real undertaking. (See Diseases and Inserts and Arboriculture.) The improvement of home-grounds and similar areas is treated elsewhere. (See Landscape Gardening.)
The peculiar agent of village improvement is the village-improvement society, but other organizations are equally useful. Woman's clubs and boards of trade are usually effective. Very often smaller groups which undertake to cover only a single street or a single small neighborhood accomplish the most intensive and satisfactory results. As a rule it is undesirable to form a new organization in any community for village improvement. It is better policy to seek the cooperation of the various existing societies. In certain circumstances these can be federated in a way to cover the problem satisfactorily.
Four factors must always cooperate in order to secure satisfactory results in civic improvement of any sort. These factors are (a) local initiative, (b) expert advice, (c) time, and (d) money, (a) It is always necessary to have some energetic local society or group of men and women who will stand behind any improvement proposition. Without this local initiative nothing can possibly be done, (b) In addition to this it is usually desirable and sometimes positively necessary to have work undertaken on the basis of practical plans drawn by experts from outside the community. The outside assistance is valuable even when no more expert than advice which might be secured within the community itself. Good plans are, however, always indispensable, (c) It then requires a considerable amount of time to carry out important improvement projects. It has been estimated that from six to ten years are always necessary in order to bring a community around to a proper understanding of its problems, and to secure sufficient unity of opinion to accomplish valuable results, (d) Money is very important, but not one-half so important as persons usually suppose. As a rule the money can be raised whenever the community is convinced, as a whole, that the proposed improvement is worth while. It is best under all circumstances to have public property paid for and improved from public funds. This means that the money should be voted by the people themselves from the public treasury. The ordinary way of raising money for village improvement, by raffles, fairs, and other voluntary means, is wholly unsatisfactory. It can accomplish only trivial results. Frank A. Waugh.
Shrubbery in the landscape.
Shrubs and bushes have two values: an intrinsic value as individual or single specimens; a value as part of the structure or design of an ornamented place. As individual specimens, they are grown for the beauty of the species itself; as parts of the landscape, they are usually grown in masses, constituting a shrubbery. It is often advisable to plant shrubs as single specimens, in order to produce the characteristic beauty of the species; but the temptation is to plant exclusively as isolated specimens, and the emphasis needs, therefore, to be placed on mass-planting.
Plants scattered over a lawn destroy all appearance of unity and purpose in the place (Fig. 2997). Every part of the place is equally accented. The area nas no meaning or individuality. The plants are in the way. They spoil the lawn. The place is random. If the shrubs are sheared, the spotted and scattered effect is intensified. Rarely does a sheared shrub have any excuse for existence, unless as a part in an artistically designed formal garden.
A mass or group of planting emphasizes particular parts of the place. It allows of bold and broad contrasts. It may give the place a feeling of strength and purposiveness. The shrubbery-mass usually should have an irregular outline and it often contains more than one species. Thereby are variety and interest increased. Fig. 2998 suggests the interest in a good shrubbery-mass. The shrubbery-masses should be placed on the boundaries; for it is a concept of landscape gardening that the center of the place shall be open. (Fig. 2999; also Figs. 2076, 2077, and others in Vol. IV.) The boundaries are the lines between properties, the foundations of buildings, the borders along walks and drives. Judicious planting may relieve the angularity of foundations and round off the corners of the yard. (Fig. 3000.) Individual specimens may be used freely, but only rarely should they be wholly isolated or scattered. They should be planted somewhere near the borders, that they may not interfere with the continuity of the place and that they may have background to set them off. The background may be a building, a bank, or a mass of foliage. In most places, the mass or border-planting should be the rule and the isolated specimen the exception; but, unfortunately, this rule is frequently reversed. It is not to be understood, however, that boundaries are always to be planted or that foundations are always to be covered. L. H. B.
The chief value of shrubbery comes from its use in an artistic way, although some shrubs have edible fruits. Many shrubs, such as lilacs, some of the spireas, gooseberries, and currants, produce leaves very early in the season and some, like forsythia, daphne, and the juneberry are covered with a profusion of blossoms at this time. From early spring until November in temperate latitudes leaves and flowers are to be found on deciduous shrubs, and from June until the following spring ornamental fruits can be seen on their branches, the red berries of the elder beginning and barberries ending the list. Some of these fruits are so richly colored and so abundant that they can be seen from a long distance. Many shrubs, like some of the viburnums and dogwoods, attain a height of 10 to 15 feet, while others, like bunch- berry and Daphne Cneorum, grow to a height of only a few inches. The leaves of some,
like the chokeberry, Thunberg's barberry, the hazels, viburnums, dogwoods, and sumachs are beautifully colored in autumn. The rhododendrons, laurels, and mahonias, and the daphne already named, are examples of shrubs having evergreen foliage. Some leaves, like those of the Salix lucida, are glossy; others, as those of the common hazel, are hairy; some are thick, and others are thin; some large, some small; some entire, and some lobed, serrated or compound. Throughout the season the foliage of a good collection of shrubbery will present the greatest variety of color, including all the hundreds of shades of green as well as yellow, white, gray, and purple. Even in winter shrubbery is wonderfully attractive in appearance from the gracefulness of its stems and branches, and from the color of its bark. With the right selections, it will serve almost as well as evergreens to shut out from view fences or other low unsightly objects.
This great variety in foliage, flower, fruit, and habit of growth makes shrubbery adapted to very extended use in the development of landscapes. It is especially appropriate along the boundaries of ornamental grounds (Fig. 2999), upon steep slopes, and in the immediate vicinity of buildings where foliage and graceful lines are needed to connect the walls of a structure with the ground (Fig. 3000), without making too much shade. It might with advantage replace the grass upon all surfaces too steep to walk upon with comfort. The foliage of shrubs that are well established remains green when dry weather turns grass brown. The broad mass of shrubbery will take care of itself when the grass needs frequent attention. Even some level surfaces might be improved in places by exchanging a lawn covering for the covering of low woody plants. Often a broad open space over a lawn is an important feature of a landscape, since it allows extended views. Many times a landscape would be more interesting if the green underneath this open space were produced by a broad mass of shrubbery, like a miniature forest, instead of grass.
In planting borders or groups of shrubs, the ground to be occupied by such a group should be entirely spaded over or plowed. Perhaps no better advice could be given than to prepare the soil as it should be prepared for a field of corn. The bushes should then be planted so that there is room for about two years' growth before their branches intermingle. If placed closer they would have a crowded appearance from the start and would not join their branches as harmoniously as when the new growth is allowed to choose its own position. If placed farther apart the effect is also bad. Occasionally a single shrub at the margin of a belt may stand out almost by itself, but generally the effect of a group should be that of a continuous mass of varying foliage.
In arranging different shrubs, the taller-growing kinds should generally be placed in the center of the group, and the lower species along the border, the space being graded from the highest to the lowest. The reason for this arrangement is that the lower plants would be killed by the shade of the larger ones if placed back of them, and moreover would not be seen; but one should avoid too uniform a slope. For example, in a continuous border there should be places where shrubs of larger size occupy the full width so as to bring growth of considerable height into the lawn. The arrangement should be varied so as to avoid all monotony, but in securing this variation a mixture of miscellaneous shrubs of all kinds does not give so good an effect as broader areas of single species or genera slightly interspersed at the margin with shrubs of another kind. Straight rows should be avoided. A laborer or a novice when told this will arrange the plants in a zigzag manner, thinking that he is placing them irregularly, the result often being almost the same as that of two rows. If the group is being planted along a straight line, as the boundary of a lot, the distances of the successive plants from this line might be somewhat as follows: 2 feet, 4 feet, 5 feet, 3 feet, 1 foot, and the distances apart, measured parallel with a fixed line, should vary also.
The ideal condition of a group of shrubbery is to have all the individual plants healthy, so that the foliage will appear fresh and of good color. This foliage should extend down to the surface of the adjacent lawn or walk, and shade the ground underneath so completely that nothing will grow there. The leaves which fall with the approach of winter should be allowed to remain as a perpetual mulch. The desired result cannot be secured the first year the shrubs are planted unless they are of large size and moved but a short distance. The aim in caring for a new plantation should be to secure thrifty plants, and this care, like the preparation of the soil, should be such as is given to a field of corn.
Very little trimming should be done. If a bush is tall and spindling it may be well to cut it off next to the ground and allow it to sprout again. If there is any dead wood it should, of course, be cut off. But when a shrub is healthy and vigorous, let it grow in its own graceful way. If it encroaches upon the walk, cut away the encroaching branch near the root so that the mark of the knife will not be noticed. Such treatment will help to retain the winter beauty of the branches.
The value of shrubbery is not appreciated, either as part in a landscape design or as furnishing for a place. In combination with trees and woods, it ties the planting together, providing easy gradations from greensward up to the tops of trees. Merely to relieve bareness, shrubs are of singular value, as in the suggestion in Fig. 3000, and again, even when slight in quantity, in Fig. 3001. The background in Fig. 3002 is brought down to the ground-line by greenery, mostly of shrub growth. The beauties of Fig. 3003 are in large part the shrub forms and colors, and the arrangement insures much of the general effect. The reader will find that most verdurous landscapes that please him will have their furniture of shrub and bush. O. C. Simonds.
Woods in the landscape.
The principal elements of landscape are atmospheric conditions, irregularities of the earth's surface, water, artificial constructions, herb and shrub ground-cover, and the woods. In the United States the great areas east, west, north, and south of the treeless prairie regions were mostly in evergreen or deciduous woods. Industries, habitation, and cultivation have divided the great wooded areas into small wood-lots and into forests that are for the most part broken into sprout- and tree-growth areas as the cordwood or timber is harvested in thirty- to sixty-year periods. The corresponding landscape modifications to that offered by this cutting of the forests is presented by homestead tree plantations that have broken the great unobstructed herb-covered prairie sweeps into series of tree-framed vistas. This offers a striking example of the importance of woods in landscape.
In the arid regions of the West, the woods are confined to a meager growth in places made moist by springs, streams, or by irrigation, to mountain slopes and valleys, and to the humid regions and mountain valleys of the Northwest. In this last section, the region of sequoias, pines, spruces, and firs, are the stateliest cone-bearing forests of the continent. The white and Norway pines of the Northeast and the long-leaf pine of the Southeast, only approach the Pacific Coast Range trees in grandeur.
As landscapes of the highest types of beauty include woods, and as wood has a high economic value, one should determine how best to save woods for their beauty and to set aside the areas that should be harvested. To fix upon areas to be kept in woods and those to be used for agriculture, industries, and habitation, economic surveys should be made of large areas. In such surveys land that is ill fitted for cultivation should be outlined and set aside in public reservation, with a view to maintaining it largely in forests. Land that is suitable for cultivation, habitation, and industries should be set aside for these purposes, and the forests stripped therefrom as the land is needed. This countryside planning is already being worked out in the study of city and county. The plans of the regions about Boston, Massachusetts, in Essex County, New Jersey, and Cook County, Illinois, and of such towns as Hopedale, Massachusetts, represent studies in which forest areas are set aside, in public reservations, and the forest growth encouraged thereon.
It is not to be assumed that such forests are without other economic values than the recreation they offer to many persons. It has been found possible in the development of such areas to increase the beauty of the forests and to secure a money-return that will nearly, if not quite, cover the cost of the cutting from the sale of forest-thinning products. It is likely that under wise management such forests can be constantly increased in beauty with little or no burden of cost.
In the areas that are assigned in the economic study of a region for other purposes than permanent forest holdings, the existing forest growth may often be continued for many years as the principal crop, or new forests may even be planted and grown before the time comes to cultivate the land in annual crops.
In the development of woods in landscape, the work can be performed in such a way as greatly to increase the beauty of the existing growth, which now is seldom the primeval growth, by thinning to develop the finest specimens and the finest groups of trees. A selection can abo be made in the cutting to increase the dominance of different species in different localities. Cutting may often be made to open vistas and wide views from particularly attractive viewpoints. It can also be made to develop more attractive sky-lines and foliage-masses as seen from valley viewpoints or from hilltop and ridges to distant hills and ridges.
The larger factors of beauty in landscape and the economic values of woods are of interest to the general public. To the individual owner of estates and home-grounds the woods have a more intimate and personal interest. Such owners are concerned about the protection against drifting snow, bleak wind, and hot sun, a shelter for the bird-life that protects the crops, a setting and a background for their home buildings to merge them into an agreeable landscape picture, a ramble and a picnic place where the wild flowers, the fruits, and the autumn leaves can te found by the children who love the woods. The wood-lot is also a place where many sticks of timber for special purposes and some cordwood will be secured in the cutting from year to year of the weaker trees that are overtopped by their neighbors, and from thinning that must be made if the highest types of woodland beauty are to be developed. Bear in mind that the wood-lot in good soil may produce a cord of wood to the acre each year.
Fortunate is the owner who has an established wood-lot, and especially if he appreciates and takes wise advantage of its utility and beauty. As woods would be included the thicket of few trees in the little town lot as well as the acres of trees on the large estates, because in the cool shade and leaf-mold soil of each the same plants and bird-shelters may be established. When there is no wood-lot one must plant either evergreen or deciduous trees to make one. If the home lot is a small one and it is desired to have a little wood-lot high enough to walk under at once, at reasonable cost, tall slender collected or nursery-grown trees may be planted close together and then thinned as they grow.
If a shelter-belt for winter is the most important consideration, use such cone-bearing evergreens as the pines, spruces, hemlocks, junipers, arbor-vitae, cypress, the last three for a narrow belt, or in the South and on the Pacific coast, such broad-leaved evergreens as the magnolia, eucalyptus, camphor tree.
It should be known that undergrowth and ground-cover plants with attractive flowers cannot be so easily established under evergreens as under deciduous trees; also that among the deciduous trees are more rapid-growing species with attractive flowers and fruit.
To grow a very interesting wood-lot in a few years from the small seedling plants that can be secured in large quantities at low cost, such plants would be set from 3 to 5 feet apart. At this distance they soon shade the ground so much with foliage as to kill out ordinary weeds and give encouragement to the more attractive woodland plants. Furthermore, close planting will force a rapid growth in height. In the selection of plants, about a third would be made up of the quick-growing low-cost species such as poplar, soft maple, negundo, catalpa, locust, and in warm sections the eucalyptus, pepper tree, grevillea. Another third would be made up of the slower-growing more permanent trees, such as oak, maple, and magnolia. The last third would be of such undergrowth, shrubs, and small trees as the flowering dogwoods, red-bud, benzoin, viburnums, white fringe, rhododendrons, azaleas, callicarpa, manzanita, and madrona. Woodland ground-cover plants may be established by bringing them in from the woods with an abundance of the natural leaf-mold soil retained about their roots.
The location for the wood-lot is at the point near the home buildings where it will best serve such purposes as are referred to early in this article, but as open land in this position is very valuable for farm uses the lot should not be large; elsewhere on the farm the wood-lot should occupy land least suited for annual crops, such as the very steep slopes and the rocky or barren areas.
Aside from woods themselves, tree forms have their special values in providing structural features in a landscape, combining well with architectural forms and affording good backgrounds and boundaries. Strip the trees from such constructions as shown in Figs. 3004 and 3005 and note the effect. Warren H. Manning.
Wild-gardening.
Wild-gardening is the art of arranging and growing colonies of hardy plants, native or foreign, so that they will look like wild flowers, multiplying with little or no care after planting. A wild-garden is not a garden that has run wild, reminding us of man's neglect; it is a poetic suggestion of the beauty of nature untouched by man. Beginners commonly suppose that wild- gardening is merely the cultivation of native flowers, as in a small border. Such an effort is worth while, but it is rarely artistic and can hardly be called wild-gardening. The main idea of the latter, originally, was to naturalize foreign flowers in larger masses than those of the garden. Wild-gardening is, therefore, a branch of landscape gardening which aims to reproduce the largest floral effects of nature with the least suggestion of man's interference.
The large facts in wild-gardening are: (1) the place or location for it; (2) the composition, as part of the landscape; (3) the kinds of plants; and (4) the small or incidental effects of clumps and nooks here and there. Fig. 3006 shows a wild-garden composition; ordinarily, a wild-garden is supposed to be merely "wild" or growing at random, as in Fig. 3007, and this effect is sometimes much to be desired. The nook or corner effect of planting (4) is shown in Fig. 3008, representing a rear screen.
Wild-gardening as a distinct department of floriculture first came into popularity about 1870, when "The Wild Garden" was written by William Robinson. Robinson's first aim was to introduce more variety into English gardens, which were monotonously gaudy in the Victorian era. Because of their greater showiness, tropical bedding-plants had driven hardy perennial flowers out of fashion. Robinson put the border on an artistic plane by paying more attention to grouping, color schemes, and new varieties; he popularized the rock- and water-garden; and he created the wild- garden. His second aim in wild-gardening was to reproduce some of the loveliest floral pictures of the North Temperate zone which demand freedom from the garden inclosure. A third aim was to make a place for thousands of plants worth growing that are banished from conventional gardens because they have small flowers, a short season, or are unsightly when out of bloom. A fourth aim was to satisfy the universal craving for wildness.
The areas most commonly used for wild-gardening are woods, meadows, and orchards. Unfortunately, orchards cannot usually be kept in grass for many years, as in Europe. Those who are the fortunate possessors of waterside, bluffs, rocks, or sandy wastes have special opportunities for wild-gardening. Those who are confined to city lots can merely suggest the spirit of wild- gardening in lawns and borders.
The finest effects in wild-gardening are suggested not by book-study but by nature-study, paying special attention to grouping and massing. For example, if the problem is to cover a bank, the books suggest locust, willows, or other suckering plants. The beginner then covers the bank exclusively with locusts or willows, which produces an artificial or gardenesque effect. Nature rarely adopts a one-plant solution of any problem. She generally grows three or four crops on the same ground, e.g., tree, shrub, and vine, or shrub, carpeting-plant, and bulb.
If one follows the nearest river-bank for a mile or so, the finest combination may be buckeye, wild goose-berry, and American bluebells, or sumach, blue phlox, and adder's-tongue. Such combinations always give more variety than one-plant solutions, generally more color, and look wilder because they represent a mode of living worked out by ages of struggle. When one combines roses, lilacs, and peonies on a sand-hill, the plants look unhappy, especially in August, but if one plants red cedar and bayberry the plants soon look as if they had been there from time immemorial. The skill of the wild-gardener lies in detecting plant associations that will solve each practical problem and look as if they were hundreds of years old.
In massing plants so as to imitate nature the commonest notion is to scatter them indiscriminately, but this is no longer considered the surest and quickest way to produce the finest effects. The showiest floral effect in nature is the solid mass or sheet of flowers of a single kind. But this is not the finest or wildest effect. William Robinson often takes the clouds as patterns in outlining his colonies. Clouds also suggest good combinations of density and thinness in sowing seeds or planting bulbs. One of the finest floral effects in nature is the kind of massing known as "the mother country and her colonies." The object is to suggest that the flowers have sprung from seed scattered by the prevailing wind. The outlying masses, therefore, follow one general direction (without being in straight lines), and they decrease in number, size, and density as they recede from the largest mass.
Design in wild-gardening.
In the woods one generally has the greatest opportunity for intensifying the feeling of wildness, because it is often possible to shut out all suggestion of the outside world—including even the sounds of civilization. Therefore, woods are generally surrounded by an irregular belt of native shrubs dense enough to hide artificial objects from the interior of the wood, leaving openings only for the main trails. The entrances can be marked without making them too gardenesque by saving or planting any trees that naturally form a good arch or frame, as white pine often does, by planting some accent marks, such as red cedar, arbor-vitae, canoe birch, and mountain-ash, or by training into a bower vines such as wild grape, clematis, bittersweet, or Virginia creeper. A system of trails is next established and the planting is usually made near the trails, from which the colonies are generally expected to spread gradually into the remoter parts of the wood. To secure the finest effects, however, it is necessary to plant the dramatic, or picturesque places, such as spring, brook, rocks, glades, hilltop, or outlook with the wild flowers appropriate to each situation. Wild-gardening in the woods is also known as landscape forestry.
In meadows it is possible to allow daffodil bulbs to multiply for many years, since they may not interfere with the hay crop. The foliage ripens and falls to the ground before harvest. Bulbs that bloom after harvest-time, like Lilium superbum, are best restricted to the edges of the meadow. But the sunny meadow generally offers the greatest canvas for painting floral pictures—daffodils by the 10,000 and narcissi either in sheets or colonies.
In fields, however, wild-gardening involves serious economic loss. Despite this fact, many efforts have been made to imitate the European grain-fields made glorious by Papaver Rhoeas, the scarlet annual weed which is the parent of the Shirley poppies. The seed is cheap but the poppies bloom in a half-hearted fashion and vanish after a year or two.
In permanent pastures wild-gardening is limited to species that are not eaten by cattle, and the effects are necessarily scattering or spotty. On a hillside at Gravetye, Robinson has naturalized the oriental poppy in isolated clumps of about a dozen plants. This is perhaps the most daring feat with which a wild-gardener may hope to succeed, for foreign flowers as gorgeous as this cannot pass themselves off as wild flowers. The distant effect, however, is very spirited, and the green background saves the effort from vulgarity.
On rocks the arrangement is largely determined by the position of soil-pockets large enough to grow plants. Soil can be added, but at great expense.
The waterside offers chances for unique effects, because the boldest tree-forms and colors have a mirror, shrubs may obscure the line where land and water meet, and amphibious plants, like the aquatic buttercup, may swim out a few feet. Also the grace of falling water can be suggested by shrubs with arching branches, or vines planted at the top of the bank. Some of the best colonies of wild flowers are those formed by seeds falling from the top of a bank.
In roadside planting, ideals have changed greatly since 1900. Then the standard of beauty was the shrub-lined roadsides of New England. That type is rapidly vanishing from the main roads, owing to the laws against the gipsy moth and the use of the stone walls for road-making. No two miles of roadside planting should be alike. There should be shrubs enough to bring back the birds; and wild flowers arranged and maintained according to the principles of wild- gardening.
On city lots, the wild-garden shrinks merely to a border of wild flowers but differs from the hardy border of mixed perennials. The latter is a conventional arrangement of flowers, mostly of foreign origin, selected for their showy forms, colors, and succession of bloom. The border of wild flowers may become an artistic wild-garden by directly imitating some natural effect, especially a local combination or plant association. For example, in the shady border the flood-plain may be recalled by hepatica, bloodroot, meadow rue, and trillium; the swamp by cinnamon and royal fern and marsh marigold; the ravine by Aster laevis and blue-stemmed goldenrod. In the sunny border the prairie may be recalled by cone-flowers, compass plant, and sunflowers; the swamp by boneset, joe-pye, and blue lobelia; the riverside by mist-flower (Eupatorium coelestinum) and sneezeweed; the dry roadside by butterfly weed and wild bergamot.
On city lots, also, the free meadow contracts into a close-cropped lawn, but the wild-gardening spirit is expressed in numberless attempts to naturalize crocuses and the March-blooming bulbs—snowdrop, Siberian scilla, and glory-of-the-snow. Unfortunately, they cannot ripen their foliage before the lawn must be mown, and therefore they die in a few years.
Plant materials.
There are three principles that grow out of the aim of wild-gardening, which is to grow self-supporting colonies that will look and act like wild flowers. (1) The esthetic principle is that all materials in landscape wild-gardening shall be primitive species or slightly improved varieties. This rules out all flowers that have been profoundly modified by man, such as double and round-petaled flowers of all kinds. Double daffodils thrive permanently in some meadows, but they do not look like wild flowers, as single daffodils do. May tulips and Darwins are permanent, but these also do not look like wild flowers, as do tulips with pointed petals. Cottage tulips look wilder than other late tulips, and the wildest of all is Tulipa sylvestris. The magnificent red flower, Tulipa Gesneriana, which somewhat resembles the prototype of garden tulips, is too gorgeous to look like a wild flower in the woods, but it might be used for distant effects in the meadow, if oriental poppy is considered permissible. (2) The cultural principle demands permanence in wild-gardening. Crocuses, early tulips, and hyacinths are too short-lived in long grass. English books and magazines illustrate exquisite effects in March and April made by winter aconite, European cyclamen, Grecian wind-flower, and Apennine anemone, but these are too tender or difficult for the American public to naturalize. (3) The economic principle requires that the materials of wild-gardening shall be cheap, for expensive varieties are instantly recognizable and look out of place. A good rule is to pay not more than 1 or 2 cents a bulb for daffodils by the 1,000 or 500. There are twenty to thirty varieties that can be had at this rate, and they fit the woods and meadows better than the varieties that cost 3 or 4 cents a bulb.
Foreign species offer greater temptations for display than native kinds. The danger line is that between the garden and wild-garden. This has already been indicated for daffodils, which are the unquestioned favorites for wild-gardening. Dutch hyacinths are inappropriate in long grass, and they soon perish. The Roman hyacinth looks more like a wild flower, but it is better to plant English bluebells or wood-hyacinths, known to the trade as Scilla nutans and S. hispanica, and the prairie hyacinth, Camassia esculenta. In addition to the foreign species commended, the lemon lily (Hemerocallis) is also adaptable, as its foliage harmonizes with long grass. This species looks much better beside the water than the orange day lily, which is better suited to the roadside. The most beautiful group for the water-side, probably, is the genus Iris. The famous iris meadow of the Royal Horticultural Society at Wisley, which has inspired much American wild-gardening since 1908, is a standard for combining the maximum of splendor with good taste. There is no difficulty in making the Siberian iris look wild, or the tall yellow iris of Europe, but the German and Japanese must be used with restraint, if at all.
It is safer to use large masses of native varieties than of foreign ones, but it is easy to overdo bee-balm, New England aster, butterfly weed, blue flag, and purple cone-flower, unless they are softened by shade, mellowed by distance, or veiled by long grass. Other American plants that are generally easy to manage on a large scale are marsh marigold, large-flowered trillium, wild blue phlox, spiderwort, Lilium superbum, boltonia, sneezeweed, sunflower, swamp rose mallow, and cardinal flower.
The ideal in the planting and after-care of a wild-garden is to betray no evidence of man's work. In planting bulbs, a good way is to scatter them on the ground, arranging them with the feet in cloud-like outlines containing about fifty bulbs, and then plant them where they lie, using a dibber or bulb-planter when the ground has been softened by the rains. Another method is to cut three sides of a sod with a spade, raise the grass, and insert five to seven bulbs at irregular distances. In the border the common unit of planting is a dozen plants; in the wild-garden fifty is a good unit. This is about the minimum that can be called a colony.
Wild-gardening was formerly considered essentially cosmopolitan in its spirit, as it still is in England. In America, however, wild-gardening commonly means the cultivation of American wild flowers, and the number of pure American compositions has greatly increased. Over $6,000,000 worth of work done in the Middle West since 1901 has been inspired by the idea of restoration.
Gardening within an inclosure is a matter of personal privilege, but wild-gardening has developed a distinct code of ethics, due largely to the Wild Flower Preservation Society of America and walking clubs, like the Appalachian and Prairie, that do not permit their members to pick flowers, and a growing appreciation of wildlife. Wilhelm Miller.
Bog-gardening.
Bog-gardening depends for success on the distinction between bogs and other wet or swampy places (Vol. I, p. 519). In the marsh or swamp, drainage is usually fairly regular and free; in the true bog, drainage is practically lacking or free only during the spring thaw. Because of this lack of drainage there is in all bogs an accumulation of sourness in the bog-water, which is strongly acid and dark-colored in some glacial potholes, more moderately so in some of the partly drained bogs of the coastal plain regions of the country. There is usually, but not always, a deficiency of lime in bog-soils, and in nature there is a very large percentage of mycorrhizal plants in them. The relation of the mycorrhizal habit of obtaining food and the acidity of the bog is a very delicate and complex one and little is actually known of it; but experience has shown such a relation to exist.
The reason for having a bog-garden is that in it many very interesting plants may be grown that could not thrive in any other situation, and many ordinary swamp plants can also be grown along its edges. For those who have an undrained area or one poorly drained, the problem of having a bog-garden almost solves itself. But the demands of others who wish to grow the many beautiful species that will become naturalized only in such places, has led to the construction of artificial bogs. These may be of any size from a few square feet to comparatively large areas, and methods of construction must vary according to the nature of the subsoil. In places where there is a layer of hard-pan and the downward drainage is poor, it will be necessary only to dig out the desired amount, fill in enough blue clay to make the basin water-tight and then put in the mixture described below.
A more permanent and satisfactory type of construction is to make the basin of concrete, the walls and floor of which should not be less than 6 to 8 inches thick, to prevent the concrete from cracking during frost. Waterproof the concrete, and it is best to smear clay over the walls and bottom because in all concrete mixtures there is lime. The completed bog, whether of concrete or merely scooped out of the ground, should be 2 feet deep, its edges practically flush with the surrounding ground. If of concrete, sods will easily grow over it and the hard line of the rim may thus be completely hidden. One should be sure, before filling with the mixture, that the tank is water-tight, as though it were for a lily-pond. The shape of the structure, whichever type of construction is used, must be a matter of individual taste. While informality is the essence of bog-gardening, a "regular irregularity" is most to be fought against. Observation of natural bogs, their shapes and shorelines, will put the imaginative bog-gardener in possession of all the suggestions needed. As an important feature, it should be remembered that the drainage from the surrounding region should be all in, not out.
The mixture to go in the bog-garden is preferably one that has come out of a cranberry or natural bog,— muck, twigs, water, slime and all. From such a mixture, a host of very interesting bog-plants will spring up the first year and these may be isolated in clumps after the first season. A good plan when following this procedure is to let the inner part of the bog run wild, clearing a strip of a foot or two all around the edges for the cultivation of species needing, for exhibition purposes, more open spaces. Provision should be made, either in this strip or in any other open place in the bog for: (1) a place where only sand and peat soil, mixed about half and half, is found, to be used for certain plants that are described in the lists following; and (2) some small space of practically open water where the very interesting bladder-worts may be grown. The latter situation can be made by scooping out the muck for a few inches, filling in with sand and peat soil, leaving about 5 to 6 inches depth of water. For those who cannot secure muck from natural bogs, a soil may be mixed of leaf-mold, sand, and twigs and leaves of the oaks or of mountain laurel or rhododendron refuse. One should guard against getting the mixture too heavy and clayey. Sand and plenty of twigs and leaves of the species mentioned will lighten up the mixture,—leaf-mold makes it more heavy.
The management of the bog-garden requires some skill and observation. As the amount of evaporation from the surface is enormous, water must be added, either artificially or naturally. Strive to keep the bog just full enough not to overflow, thus keeping the whole sponge wet, but preventing the leaking out of the valuable acids that are the life of the bog. Both for the effect and for the good of the bog, it is desirable to cover all the open spaces in it with live sphagnum moss, which when once established, will make a delightful carpet.
Plants for the bog-garden.
Many bog-plants are very showy and worthy of cultivation. Others, such as the insectivorous kinds, are among the most wonderful plants in nature, for they have the unique distinction of being able to digest animal matter directly, a habit otherwise unknown in the realm of vegetable life. In the following account of bog-plants many are necessarily omitted, and it should be remembered that a number of purely swamp species, not mentioned here, can also be grown in bogs.
I. Shrubs.
Rhodora (Rhododendron canadense), purple flowers before the leaves in April and May; 3 to 5 feet.
Swamp azalea (Rhododendron viscosum), white or pink flowers after the leaves in May or June; 5 to 8 feet.
Sheep-laurel (Kalmia angustifolia), purplish pink flowers, summer; 1 to 2 feet; also Kalmia polifolia in northern regions.
Leather-leaf (Chamaedaphne calyculata), small whitish flowers along one side of the branches, May; 1 to 2 feet.
Labrador tea (Ledum groenlandicum), white flowers in terminal clusters; leaves russet-brown below; 2 to 5 feet.
Wild rosemary (Andromeda polifolia), drooping white flowers, early spring; leaves silvery below; under 2 1/2 feet.
Creeping snowberry (Chiogenes hispidula), prostrate, with tiny white flowers and snow berries; leaves dark, evergreen.
There are many others, but these are the best for the temperate regions of the United States. In the South many others are to be found.
II. Perennials, grown chiefly for their flowers.
In any open part of the bog.
Calla palustris, a greenish flowered water arum having a conspicuous white spathe; showy and hardy.
Acorus Calamus, sword-shaped leaves and a finger-like flower-cluster; the root is the medicinal calamus.
Viola lanceolata, a delicate, very free-flowered violet with lance-shaped leaves.
Asclepias lanceolata, a deep red milkweed, very showy, and with smooth narrow leaves.
Potentilla palustris, the purple marshlocks, a sprawling rather rank bog-plant with purple flowers.
Penthorum sedoides, greenish yellow flowers in curved spikes in summer; native plant, probably not in the trade.
Orontium aquaticum, the golden-club, very early flowering, making a patch of gold in March or April.
Menyanthes trifoliata, with three-divided leaves and many conspicuous white flowers; the buck-bean is a valuable addition.
Helonias bullata, flowering in April to May; the swamp pink is our most conspicuous spring flower.
There are many asters, goldenrods, and eupatoriums that grow in bogs, as well as some gentians, but the bog species must be collected from the wild.
In wet sandy places.
Here must be grown all the species of Xyris or yellow-eyed grass, curious plants with long, delicate, grass-like leaves and tiny heads of yellow flowers. Also species of Eriocaulon or bunch-flowers should be grown here. They are not large, have sword-shaped leaves and white erect heads not unlike the everlastings. With these two must go the meadow-beauty, different species of Rhexia with beautiful purplish red flowers. The common R. virginica is the hardiest and easiest to procure.
All the plants in this class and the following are to be secured from dealers in bog-plants or collected in the wild. There are others such as Lophiola, Narthecium, and Zyadenus.
In open water.
The bladder-worts are different species of Utricularia, some with purple and some with yellow flowers, some floating on the surface and supported by air-bladders, others rooting near the edges of the pool. They are the most interesting and delicate of all bog species.
III. Bog Orchids.
Many native orchids can be grown only in bogs, and from them the following have been selected, as the most noteworthy. All are perennials and may be secured from the dealers.
Calopogon pulchellus, pink-purple flowers about an inch in diameter, June and July; leaves grass-like.
Cypripedium parviflorum, a small-flowered yellow lady's slipper; raise up so that the roots will not be too wet.
Cypripedium spectabile (C. reginae or C. hirsutum), showy lady's slipper; beautiful rose-purple or nearly white flowers; better for a little shade.
Habenaria blephariglottis, a white-fringed orchid with a showy spike; 1 to 2 feet; does splendidly in the open sun.
Habenaria ciliaris, yellow fringed orchid; very showy spike; 1 to 1/2 feet.
Arethusa bulbosa, beautiful purplish pink flowers, about the last of May; 3 to 6 inches.
Spiranthes cernua, white, slender spikes; the ladies-tresses; several others, even more slender species are known.
Besides these are over forty other species which may be collected by the enthusiast. Nearly all of our most beautiful native orchids are bog-flowers. Most of them can be grown in pure live sphagnum moss.
IV. Insectivorous Plants.
Grown more for their peculiar habits of getting food and for their odd form than for beauty. They are of several types; some catch insects in a tube-shaped leaf, drowning them at the bottom of the cup, others have sticky hair to which the insect becomes fastened, and the most wonderful of all, the dionaea, actually traps its food by a contraction of its jaw-like, prickly leaves. The best insectivorous bog-plants are as follows:
With pitchers.
Sarracenia purpurea, having short purplish red pitchers, quite hardy northward, but not easy to maintain in an artificial bog.
Sarracenia rubra, the red trumpet-leaf, with tall pitchers; does very well in artificial bog.
Sarracenia flava, also with tall pitchers but yellow.
Sarracenia Drummondii, with variegated pitchers, the largest and most showy of all.
The last three must be taken in during the winter, north of Washington, D. C.; all of them grow rapidly and, if the season is favorable, will color up beautifully.
With sticky hairs.
All the species of Drosera have the curious habit of catching and digesting insects. They are all small plants which should be planted in masses on sphagnum moss. All native species are quite hardy and many can be secured from dealers in bog-plants. D. rotundifolia is the best; and D. capensis is a good species, but hardy only South.
With contracting leaves.
The Venus fly-trap, a low perennial with two valve-like leaves that contract whenever an insect or other irritation comes between them. Closing up rather rapidly these leaves are among the most interesting objects to see in the bog-garden. Not hardy north of Washington, D. C.
The darlingtonia, a Califqrnian insectivorous plant allied to the eastern sarracenia, can be grown along the Atlantic coast only with protection, but south of Washington it should be hardy. One of the most striking bog-plants. See Vol. II, page 964. N. Taylor.
Water-gardening.
Water-gardening is the cultivation of water-lilies and the other aquatic plants, those that grow in water rather then in bogs or wet soil, particularly those that have floating parts.
Water-gardening is such a special form of plant-growing that it should be attempted only in the personal parts of the grounds, and where all the conditions of control can be secured. The species formerly known were mostly collected from tropical climates and were adapted almost exclusively for warm greenhouse culture and were to be found solely in botanic gardens and homes of the wealthy. However, the idea that our central Atlantic states were sufficiently warm to grow
some of the tropical varieties out-of-doors in summer was tested in the early eighties of last century by the successful flowering out-of-doors without artificial heat of a plant of Victoría regia.
For many years the aquatic gardens in Lincoln Park, Chicago, the Shaw Botanic Garden in St. Louis, Missouri, the New York Botanical Garden at the Bronx, and Prospect Park, Brooklyn, as well as in other cities, have paved the way for the advancement of this popular and most interesting phase of gardening.
But it was not until Latour-Marliac, of France, conceived the idea of crossing species of the hardy nympheas of the United States, notably the southern species N. mexicana (N. flava) and N. tuberosa (Fig. 3009, from G. F.), that a great impetus was aroused in the cultivation of water-lilies. The cost of maintaining a high temperature for the cultivation of the tropical lilies, besides the necessity of having a glass structure and water-tight tanks, cisterns, and so on, seemed still to impress the public generally that it was too costly to construct artificial pools and fountain basins. The products of Latour-Marliac found a ready market in England and as rapidly as he introduced a new hardy water-lily the more enthusiasm was aroused and the more the demand increased; and their popularity naturally spread to the United States. See also the discussion under Nymphaea.
It has been demonstrated that water-lilies can be grown successfully in the United States; not only the hardy varieties and the hybrids but the tender tropical nympheas, the victorias, the Egyptian and Japanese lotus are to be seen, during our summer season.
Many gardens and plantings of water-lilies and aquatic and subaquatic plants are too stiff and formal. Nothing is so inartistic as regular lines on the margins of some ponds and again of crowding too many varieties in one small pond. Natural planting is in masses and groups, and single plants are admissible only in small ponds or artificial basins in small and limited gardens.
Since it is found that reinforced concrete is the simplest means of construction and that water-tight and frost-proof receptacles can be secured at moderate expense, water-gardening is rapidly developing. Also the number of species has so rapidly increased that it is no longer difficult to select water-lilies for a miniature garden, tubs, small pools, fountain basins, ponds, and lakes; also for all seasons of the year, as it has been demonstrated that these charming flowers can be had in the depth of winter.
For the small garden where there is but a limited space, a miniature artificial stream terminating in a small pool could be constructed; on either side of this streamlet may be planted moisture-loving plants such as calamus, calthas, Calla palustris, rushes of various kinds, menyanthes, sagittarias, lobelias (cardinal flower), Myosotis Scorpioides, and iris in variety; and in the pool the miniature water-lily, Nymphaea tetragona (N. pygmaea) (white) and Nymphaea tetragona helvola (yellow). This style of water-garden can be carried out on a much larger scale where space will permit and a much larger collection of subaquatic and moisture-loving plants can be used as well as more nympheas and of larger dimensions.
Water-gardening on a small scale can be most successfully carried out with the use of tubs, half-barrels sunken in the ground, two, three or more placed as thought best. In the rear of the tubs plant Japanese iris, flags, and moisture-loving plants, making a pleasing background, and between the tubs if ground can be kept moist, parrot's feather (Myriophyllum proserpinacoides), or Myosotis scorpioides (M. palustris), or Lysimachia nummularia, or dwarf trailing plants. For tub culture nympheas of moderate growth are preferable. N. Laydekeri var. rosea and N. Laydekeri var. lilacea are both charming varieties of pink rosy lilac, changing to rose and carmine, very free flowering. There are several other nympheas of moderate growth and pleasing shades of color suitable for tub culture. Many persons make serious mistakes by selecting strong and vigorous plants suited only for large ponds or even lakes. The plants may live and be very thrifty but will not flower.
A better and very satisfactory water-garden for a small place can be had by constructing a concrete pool 4 to 5 feet, or any size desired, bearing in mind that a large pool in a small garden is inconsistent. A pool or basin 4 to 5 feet in diameter and 2 feet deep will accommodate three nympheas. The surroundings may be similar as recommended for tubs, but no two gardens are alike.
Other aquatics may be found under the genera Alisma, Aponogeton (Ouvirandra), Azolla, Brasenia, Butomus, Cabomba (Fig. 3010), Ceratopteris, Eichhornia, Elisma, Elodea, Euryale, Hottonia, Hydrilla, Hydrocharis, Hydrocleis, Lemna, Limnobium, Limnocharis, Ludwigia, Myriophyllum, Nelumbo, Nuphar, Nymphoides (Limnanthemum), Pistia, Potamogeton, Riccia, Ricciocarpus, Sagittaria, Salvinia, Utricularia, Vallisneria. See also the articles, Aquarium, Aquatics, Nymphaea, Victoria; also Bog-gardening, page 2666. William Tricker.
Subtropical-gardening.
Under this denomination are included all those gardening effort« that aim to introduce into cool or cold climates the plant forms and the foliar luxuriance of tropical and semi-tropical regions. The subtropical garden may be permanent if it is under glass; but the term is usually employed to denote the summer effects secured by transferring glasshouse plants to the open and combining them in such a way as to produce a harmonious composition. It is not often that an approach to real tropical effects can be made in a northern garden, and yet it is well to have these effects in mind; Figs. 3011, 3012, reduced from Garden and Forest, show real tropical vegetation.
Subtropical plants are represented by the lush-leaved caladiums and cannas, the brilliant-colored foliage of crotons and dracenas, the towering plumes of palms, the succulent leaf or stem of century plant or cactus, and the dense rank ground-cover of selaginellas and todeas. The interest in such plants is chiefly in the foliage, rather than in the flowers. In the plant groups they stand at the opposite extreme from the rock-garden plants with tufts, cushions, and mats of miniature foliage that in the blossoming season are nearly covered with flowers, and thin films of mosses, lichens, and algae on the rock and earth surface. The subtropical plants of each of the climatic regions of the United States are usually from a warmer region, although natives having a like character may well be used in outdoor planting. The fibrous-rooted exotics, such as palms and tree ferns, are grown in greenhouses for the full year, either in permanent beds or in pots and tubs. The larger and more perfect the specimen, the greater its value. Usually in such a collection of plants under glass there are numerous species each
represented by one or a few plants, all grouped together in a crowded mass. Such a collection is not a subtropical garden and does not represent the most effective use of the material.
The potted plants that have foliage tough enough to withstand summer winds and sun, such as palms; cycas, ficus, and crotons, are often used in the garden in summer, or under the protection of trees, as subtropical beds or garden compartments. Each plant is valued for itself, just as it is in the greenhouse in winter, size and perfection of form being its chief attractions. Each has no relation to the foliage about it, except that its unusual character of leaf and growth makes a striking contrast to the normal native vegetation. For this kind of planting a few well-grown specimens give the desired summer appearance to the garden.
One of the very best of indoor subtropical gardens in America is the tropical house at Garfield Park, Chicago, where a comparatively few species, such as the tree-fern overhead and selaginellas as a ground-cover, are used in large numbers to make bands of foliage to arch paths and hide the glass roof, and to frame in vistas to glimpses of water, with carpets of green below. Here is a consistent and exquisite example of subtropical-gardening, the dominant note is light with the artificial construction that supports and protects it all, so cleverly disguised as to make it appear like a real glade in the tropics. There is an effect of airy lightness to it all that is a thrilling surprise as one passes in from the snows of winter out-of-doors. Equally as distinctive and effective results would be secured by the use of such greenhouse vines as tacsonia, allamanda and bougainvillea, or by the use of the somber greens of ficus.
In the open air, the use of palms, tree ferns, dracenas, crotons, caladiums, and ficus for summer decoration is not widespread. On large estates and in parks that can boast of greenhouses, a group planting of these subjects in the summer in the open is often to be found. In this case the outdoor use of the plants is more or less for the good of the plants and therefore little care or study is given to the grouping. The plants are "turned out to pasture" to rest up from the strenuous winter and stiffen their stems and roots for another year. Their winter appearance is their main purpose. Sometimes, especially in parks and botanic gardens, the plants are grouped by family or ecology, as a succulent group, desert group, or palm group, keeping closely to their winter arrangement under glass, more to put them under somewhat natural conditions for their best growth that they may require less personal attention from the gardener, than from a desire for any definite landscape effects.
The nearest approach in the United States (outside the very southernmost parts) to the tree-like palm vegetation of the tropics and sub-tropics is in the palmetto (Fig. 3013; also Fig. 3516, Vol. VI), which is native as far north as North Carolina, and is very useful as a decorative plant.
The smaller-growing subtropical plants are much used in the production of the most studied designs in planting, namely, in the construction of floral patterns, the very precise designs of city seals and the emblems of the many secret orders, "floral signs," and rarely, as in Regent Park, London, in the making of floral clocks. In these plantings, use is made of celosias, alternantheras, coleus, and echeverias and other tender succulents. This use of plants is decidedly on the wane on private estates and in the larger parks, for it has not now the sanction of fashion for the making of permanent seasonal garden features, but it has a value as display in horticultural or other exhibitions as a temporary affair, showing gardeners' ingenuity.
One great use of individual subtropical plants in pots has been in formal gardens as decorative adjuncts. These are then distinct garden features, garden accessories of rank similar to statuary and special flowerbeds. For such effects, large "orangeries were maintained in the great day of the formal garden in Italy and France, and the use of such plants has been retained in our elaborate gardens today.
In park planting, the use of subtropical plants often produces pleasing pictures, but only when the entire surroundings are very artificial and refined. Since the final character of a finished planting is based solely upon the foliage mass, plants of the same character only should be used in the separate plantings. The most natural effect is gained when the plants are grown in the ground, either with the pots plunged or planted directly in the soil. For this purpose the plants must be given conditions under glass to keep them alive all winter, but not necessarily in active growth, or kept in a dormant condition in pits, or stored as tubers. Plants for this purpose may be thus grouped—the taller woody plants to give height of green foliage to the group, low tender flowering herbs to give color from leaf or flower, and bulbous plants for bold leafage or bright flowers as fillers among the foliage plants.
Plantings of this kind involve considerable yearly cost for storage of potted plants or tubers, and great expense of annual planting and digging. Then there is a comparatively short season of foliage and flowers, from the time that the semi-dormant vegetation gets under way in July until cut down by early frosts. Yet effects not otherwise to be secured by plant materials can be given gardens and parks in this way. This is a use of tender plants that will be greatly developed in the future, by park super-intendents and owners of large estates who have the courage to break away from the usual specimen or jumbled planting, and make real garden pictures. There is very little of this kind of gardening as yet. The temporary tropical foliage of our summer gardens is much more effectively used today than it was a few years ago, but the problem must be studied more carefully before the best possible use is made of this material.
The ideal subtropical garden gives in a small compass the feeling of the wonder and luxuriance of the vegetation of the tropics, and suggests some of its pictures, whether under great glass roofs or in the open ground in the summer. Warren H. Manning.
Plants for the seaside.
Very distinctive types of American scenery are to be found along our seashores. The very dark green mangrove thickets come to the salt-water's edge on the Florida and the Gulf coasts with a backing of savannas of tall grasses, fringes, and islands of palms, and gloomy thickets of cypress trees draped heavily with the hanging gray moss-like tillandsias. Farther north on the Atlantic coast are great hills and sweeps of sand-dunes, constantly shifting, overwhelming the stunted growth of pine, cedar, oak, and maple. Here the sand-reeds push out their long fingers of undergrowth and root-fibers to hold the sand in place, and they establish conditions for shrubs of huckleberry, rose, deciduous holly,
baccharis, and iva, and give protection to the young forest trees. Along the rock-bound New England coast are wind-swept compact masses and distorted individuals of cedar, pitch and Norway pine, corresponding in a way to the similar Monterey pine and cypress of the Lower California shore. With the pines and oaks of New England are maple and shad-bush with ground- cover thickets of bayberry, rose, beach plum, huckleberry, and baccharis, and compact evergreen mats of bearberry, crowberry, and hanging curtains of the prostrate juniper over faces of ledges. In the salt-marshes are great patches of the rich green sedges, and in the flats the brilliantly colored samphires.
The main thing to be considered in the development of this native growth is to let it alone when it is well established. On the drifting sands of the dunes and plains of the seashore, plantations of the beach- grasses are made and protected as well as plantations of pines and shrubs. In California certain lupines and acacias have been successful, together with the reed, in holding the drifting sand.
There are two kinds of seaside planting: the adaptation of the usual species used in the lawn and garden to seashore conditions for effects like the usual refined planting; the other the planting for definite seaside effects by the almost exclusive use of typical maritime flora. This second kind of seashore planting is rarely attempted, as natural seaside pictures are hard to imitate. The problem as usually conceived is one of finding plants that will endure seaside conditions.
The tidal marshes are always fully planted by nature, and man can add little to good purpose. In sheltered bays, especially where the soil is good, the existing flora usually differs little from that common to the region inland, and it is no great problem to add to it. Even on the most exposed sites there is a low herbage and stunted undergrowth while a few picturesque wind-twisted trees give special distinction to the landscape. Even evergreen trees are often found near the shore-line, and the black spruce on the Maine coast, pitch pine and red cedar in southern New England, Jersey pines on the sand-barren coast of the middle states, and farther south bald cypress, until this gives way to the tropical palmetto and mangrove.
Given partial shelter near the taller woody plants, many low shrubs and herbs may be grown near the seacoast. There are many showy natives in the maritime flora and many more may be brought from Europe, though few have been tried as yet. The salt in the soil or water is rather a minor factor to many plants. More important to their welfare is the light sandy or heavy clay soil on the seashore above the tide-line. For the woody plants, the great factor is the high wind which stunts the branches and foliage. Though the winds are high, yet the temperature is more even and usually higher than at the same latitude inland. This is a favorable factor.
Since the sheltered nooks are not at all difficult to plant, it is on the exposed sites where the soil is poor that the problem is usually specially considered. If the soil is wet just above the tide-line, the beaches need no planting to hold the soil in place. When the soil is light and dry and shifts with the wind, not only is root- hold for the plants difficult, but the wind-driven sand cuts the twigs and foliage. It is here, where wind and wave meet, that several grasses do good work in holding the shifting sand in place until larger-growing plants can get a foothold. Two good sand-binders are the beach-grass (Ammophila arenaria) and sea lyme- grass (Elymus arcnarius). These can be set out as small plants or the seeds sown upon the sand. Immediately branches or heavy straw should be thrown on to hold the sand for a time until the grass takes hold. When these tall grasses are established, they may be reinforced by lower tufted grasses, such as festuca and stipa.
Immediately back of this line of exposure should
begin the shelter-belt of trees and shrubs. This would consist of quick-growing trees, such as some of the willows, poplars, locusts, and some of the native cherries (Prunus serótina, P. pennsylvanica, P. virginiana, and the like). These are to be followed by more permanent material, such as the stiff thick-growing thorns and native crab-apples, and the species of oaks and other native forest trees that will live in light soil. Trees with large or compound foliage are to be avoided. Several coniferous evergreen trees thrive in conditions close to the salt-water, particularly the white spruce, pitch pine, red cedar, and their geographical relatives. A great many trees, even the sturdiest natives, cannot thrive under extreme conditions along the seashore.
Beneath the partial shelter of groups of trees, a great many shrubs will thrive under the handicap of sand and salt and wind. Particularly worthy of note are such common shrubs as Baccharis halimifolia, Lycium halimifolium, Ligustrum vulgäre, Shepherdia canadensis, Hippophae rhamnoides, Salix viminalis, Rhamnus Frángula, Cornus paniculata, Rhus copallina, and the like, and among the beach-grasses Prunus pumila, P. marítima, Myrica carolinensis, Cytisus scoparius, and the
species of Tamarix. To tie the shrubs together, several vines, as the native species of grapes, celastrus, and smilax, are very useful.
For details of color, masses of native or exotic perennial herbs may be grown. In dry soil select some of the species of Armeria, Sedum, Lathyrus, Asclepias, Liatris, Silène, Statice, Opuntia, and so on. In wet soil try the native species of Hibiscus, Iris, Acorus.Thalictrum, Lythrum, Solidago, and their near exotic relatives. The splash of salt-water is often fatal to many annuals, but those hardy annuals that like light warm soils, as portulaca and the Shirley poppy, will give masses of bright summer color. In the planting of herbs, there would be no special soil- preparation, or after-care, as refined garden effects are here out of place.
Three distinct purposes are served by a judicious seaside planting: shelter from strong winds to benefit the crops and man, checking of shore erosion and sand movement, and definite landscape effects. One should not so much strive to secure gardenesque effects but rather to intensify the natural features of the landscape.
Examples of successful seashore planting are numerous along the coast of New England where summer colonies of the wealthy have been established, parts of Long Island, and in many places along the coast of the Middle Atlantic states. The first work in seaside planting in this country was to prevent shore erosion, and from this work have developed the further uses for shelter and landscape effect. The problem of the shores of the Great Lakes is very similar, and much excellent
work has been undertaken along the shore of Lake Michigan, just north of Chicago. A consistent plan for the development of this particular shore has been advocated.
There are few books devoted wholly to the problem of seashore planting, and much experimenting is yet to be done. See "Seaside Planting of Trees and Shrubs," by Alfred Gaut (England) and "Gardens Near the Sea," by Alice Lounsberry. Warren H. Manning.
Succulent plants and their culture.
Succulents are fleshy plants of many kinds, but forming a cultural group well known as such to gardens. They are grown mostly for their striking or grotesque usually condensed form, and not for the verdurous character of foliage and spray; and some of them are notable for their showy bloom.
This aggregation of plants is comprised of genera and species of several very remotely related families. Cactacea, perhaps, contains the largest number of genera and species belonging to this group, although not all members of the family are strictly succulent in habit. Next in point of number is undoubtedly Amaryl- lidaceae, represented by Agave and Furcraea, with Euphorbiaceae as a close third, represented almost wholly by the great genus Euphorbia, although a few species of Pedilanthus are to be included. Crassulaceae comprises a large number of genera and species, nearly all of which are succulent in habit of growth, although comparatively few genera are common in cultivation. Conspicuous among these crassulaceous things may be listed Bryophyllum, Cotyledon, Crassula, Echeveria, Kalanchoe, Sedum, and Sempervivum. In Asclepiadaceae; the group is represented chiefly by Stapelia, . although, to a limited extent, one finds in cultivation representatives of Caralluma, Ceropegia, Duvalia, Echidnopsis, and Heurnia. Bromeliaceae gives two genera, Dyckia and Hechtia. Liliaceae contributes Aloe, Apicra, Gasteria, Haworthia, and a comparatively small number of species of Yucca. The great family of Compositae has representatives in a section of the genus Senecio. By some authors this group of senecios is considered as having generic standing under the name Kleinia.
In their wild forms, succulents are native to widely separated geographical areas, for the most part being indigenous to the arid or semi-arid regions of Asia, Africa, North and South America, and the West Indies. They have this in common, however, that the climatic and soil conditions of these remote habitats are comparable and such as to induce just the characteristic growths that these plants exhibit. For this reason they are usually brought together, in cultivation, and given the same or very similar treatment.
The use of succulents.
Many of the succulents are very attractive and ornamental grown either as single specimens, in groups of one class, or when different genera and species are brought together in mixed planting. For the most part the agaves are too large and bulky to be used to advantage other than as single specimens and a few species are not uncommonly employed in this way. Among these may be mentioned Agave picta, the variegated forms of A. americana, A. atrovirens, and A. Milleri. They are commonly grown in tubs to facilitate handling. Thus treated, they are housed in winter and in summer are placed in some favorable location on the lawn. Some of the best yuccas are hardy as far north as New England and the lake region. Yucca filamentosa. Y. gloriosa, and Y. glauca have received considerable attention. They are attractive as single specimens, in small groups on the lawn, or when used as border plants with a shrubbery background. In summer they produce large panicles of showy white waxy flowers which are very striking throughout the daytime and are especially so by twilight. The foliage being evergreen gives an added value to the plants for winter effects. A considerable number of this group of plants is well adapted for use in window- gardens. The very grotesqueness of some and the remarkable symmetry of others appeal to one's interest as much as do many gaudy and highly colored flowers of other classes of plants. Furthermore, a large proportion of these plants produce very excellent flowers, and frequently the resulting fruits are equally showy. Among the species valuable for individual pot- plants may be mentioned the following. Nearly all the echeverias are attractive in both foliage and flower characters. The globose and stemless rosette forms of sempervivum, commonly known as hen- and-chickens, are especially noteworthy. The production of numerous offsets and these appearing from beneath the foliage of the parent are very interesting and suggest the application of the common name. A very large number of the smaller cacti deserve consideration. The crown of flowers, followed by a like crown of colored fruits, is particularly pleasing. The numerous species of stapelias are easily grown and in the autumn produce a variety of strikingly showy flowers. Their one objectionable feature is the disagreeable odor of the freshly opened flowers, but this passes away in a very short time, while the flowers remain open for several days.
Not all the succulents lend themselves well to ornamental planting, although many can be thus used and very pleasing effects are produced. The small globular and short cylindrical cacti, with their great diversity in color of the plant-body and of the spines, give material for very effective combinations in design work. They have this advantage over foliage plants used in such work, inasmuch as their growth is so slight that the plants may be placed close together at the beginning and, without any special subsequent care, the design thus formed will retain its full outline throughout the season. A suggestion of the possibility of using cacti in this way is to be seen in the accompanying illustration (Fig. 3014). For this class of planting echeverias are undoubtedly the best material obtainable. The individual plants are equally as symmetrical and pleasing as the cacti, and the range of color variations among the species is fully as great. They have the added advantage that they can be propagated more easily and more abundantly than is possible with cacti. When a large number of mixed genera and species of succulents is available, exceptionally attractive plantings may be produced by a combination of these in more natural rather than formal designs. (Fig. 3015.) These appear to best advantage when planted among rocks and the soil surface covered over with gravel and sand. Such treatment not only gives a more natural appearance to the planting but is advantageous because it keeps the plant-bodies from coming in contact with the earth, which to most of them is very injurious if the soil is wet for any considerable time. In northern climates these beds must necessarily be but temporary combinations, to receive the plants for the summer months. In the south and southwest regions, where most of the succulents are quite hardy, the planting may be made permanent. In such cases very pleas-
ing effects are produced by planting on a sloping surface, in more or less raised beds or, better still, in rockeries.
The cultivation of succulents.
For a general rule, it may be stated that all succulents require an open porous sandy soil and perfect drainage.Other conditions, such as watering and atmospheric humidity and temperature,must vary somewhat with individuals or with special groups.Nearly all the species are very easily grown for seed,although in many cases vegetative reproduction is more available.In fact,some species have natural adaptions for propagation in this way as well as by seeds,and quicker returns may be had from the vegetative methods.The method employed in propagating cacti from seed has given equally excellent results when applied to all other genera of succulents and is therefore given in all essential detail.
Cacti are especially easy to start from seeds and with proper care may be readily brought to maturity. Experience teaches that such plants are better adapted to greenhouse treatment than those brought in from their native wilds. The latter suffer from the shock of radically changed conditions. For a germinating vessel, nothing can be more convenient than a 3- or 4-inch pot. If not fresh from the pottery, this should be thoroughly sterilized. Sterilization can be accomplished by soaking and washing in a dilute solution of copper sulfate (blue vitriol) and subsequently rinsing well; or the pots may be placed in a furnace till all organic matter has been destroyed. This sterilization is necessary for the reason that the seedlings must remain in the seed-pot for a considerable time before it is possible to transplant them. If not sterilized, the pot is likely soon to be covered with algœ or other organic growth and this, spreading over the surface of the soil, will quickly smother the young plants. For the same reason also, the soil should be thoroughly sterilized. This seeding soil should be very sandy with only sufficient humus mixed with it to furnish food for the young plant, of which a very little is sufficient. To insure perfect drainage, the pot is filled at least one-fourth full of broken bits of pots or charcoal, on top of which is placed the soil up to about 3/4 inch from the top. This is jarred down lightly and the surface leveled. The seeds are then scattered evenly over the surface and firmed down with a flat-faced cylindrical block. Over the seeds is placed a layer, about 3/8 inch deep, of fine gravel not
larger than a small pea. One of the chief drawbacks in growing cactus seedlings is their susceptibility to "damp off" in their younger stages. The protection afforded by this layer of gravel removes that danger. It also prevents any baking of the surface of the soil. The pots are then placed in a pan of water and allowed to remain until the water shows on the surface of the soil. Subsequent watering can be accomplished with a fine spray, applied to the surface of the gravel.
After planting, the seed-pots should be placed on a bench which is insulated in vessels of water or, tetter, in water with a surface coat of oil. This oil is to exclude ants, which have an especial liking for cactus seeds. Best results are secured in a humid atmosphere and a temperature of at least 70° F. The seedlings of most genera ought to appear within ten days, but opuntia may require a little longer. When the seedlings begin to show spines, they may be transplanted into small flats of earth into which a little more humus or sod soil has been mixed. They may remain in these flats for one to several years, depending on the rapidity of growth in different species. Eventually they are potted off as individual specimens or placed in the open ground.
It is only in the southwest states that many of the cactus plants are hardy enough to be permanently planted out-of-doors. Throughout the greater part of the United States they are tender and require greenhouse protection in winter. In this colder region they
Other conditions, such as watering and atmospheric *—TEay be planted in the open ground of a conservatory,
humidity and temperature, must vary somewhat with individuals or with special groups. Nearly all the species are very easily grown from seed, although in many cases vegetative reproduction is more available. In fact, some species have natural adaptations for propagation in this way as well as by seeds, and quicker returns may be had from the vegetative methods. The method employed in propagating cacti from seed has given equally excellent results when applied to all other genera of succulents and is therefore given in all essential detail.
where they thrive excellently, or they may be kept m pots in winter and, in the hottest part of summer, be removed to the outside and the pots plunged in beds.
Almost any cactus will readily strike root from cuttings. The cut surface must be allowed to dry for several days, until a corky layer has formed over it. The cutting may then be placed in sand to root, its base but little below the surface. If slender, the cutting should be tied in position to a supporting stick.
Grafting of cacti is almost unlimited in its possibilities, although employed only in particular cases. Small globose forms, such as mammillaria (Fig. 3016), echino- cactus, echinopsis, and others, are frequently grafted on some abundantly rooting cereus. Good stocks are provided by Cereus Bonplandii and C. tortuosus, though
almost any of the smaller columnar forms may be used. With these cions and stocks, it is necessary only to make a smooth horizontal cut across each and place the two flat surfaces together. The cion is held in position by placing soft strings or raffia over it and tying the ends firmly about the stock or to sticks thrust into the earth. Zygocaetus (the old epiphyllum), rhipsalis, and A porocactus (or Cereus) flagelliformis, which are epiphytic species, do well when grafted on slender upright species of cereus, but are more commonly placed on pereskia. If zygocactus is used as a stock, cleft-grafting is usually employed; if rhipsalis, either the cleft- or saddle-graft. Cristate forms treated as cuttings usually develop normal - formed new growths, but when grafted will continue the cristate character.
Although it is possible for cacti to survive a long drought in nat ure, yet when grown in pots they are seriously injured if their roots remain dry for any considerable time. They should not be placed on benches over the heating-pipes, where the soil soon dries. It is desirable to have the soil cool and the air overhead warm and rather dry for all desert forms. Contrary to a prevalent opinion, they require water. This should be applied in sufficient quantity only to keep the soil moist. A saturated soil quickly induces a soft watery rot which is fatal to the plant. This is especially likely if the soil contains any organic matter that has not been thoroughly decomposed. A small amount of lime in the soil is desirable, and soil should never be sour. Perfect drainage is necessary at all times. Many species of cereus. and phyllocactus (now properly epi- phyllum) climb over trees or rocks by means of aerial roots. These are indigenous to the more tropical regions and should be grown in a separate room from the desert forms, in one where the atmosphere can be kept at a higher degree of humidity. They should, also, be provided with suitable supports on which to climb. Zygocactus, rhipsalis, and other epiphytic cacti, may be successfully grown in this same room, but suspended in baskets in the way in which orchids are treated.
Agaves and furcreas, although readily grown from seeds, are more commonly propagated from suckers, or from the bulblets produced in abundance in the inflorescence of many species. For these plants a good soil is one of half sod and half sand. In nature they do not form deeply penetrating roots but widely spreading horizontal feeders. In pot or tub culture, the roots quickly reach the walls of the container and the plant very soon becomes pot-bound. Furthermore, if the container is allowed to remain dry for any time the roots are seriously injured thereby. When possible, it is better to plunge the pots or plant directly in open ground.
Euphorbias and pedilanthuses are best treated in every way as are the cacti. Their cultural methods differ but very little. While it is possible to grow them from cuttings, it is less easily accomplished than with cacti. The cut surface should be placed immediately in powdered charcoal to check the flow of milky sap. When the surface is thoroughly dry, the cutting may be rooted in finely broken charcoal or in sterilized sand. These plants are very susceptible to bacterial rot. Grafting is possible but difficult. It is sometimes employed to preserve a cristate growth of the cion.
Most genera of Crassulaceae are propagated more readily from seeds or from stem-cuttings. There are a few noteworthy exceptions, however. Bryophyllum can be more quickly and just as abundantly multiplied
3017. An elongated cactus form.—Lopho- cereus Schottii.
by placing matured healthy leaves flat on wet sand and kept in a moist warm atmosphere. In a very short time tiny plants will appear in the notches about the margin of the leaf (Fig. 673, Vol. I). When of sufficient size these may be removed and potted as individual plants. In most species of echeveria, multiplication is best accomplished by carefully removing the healthy mature leaves and placing them on sand as with bryo- phyllum. The base of the leaf must not be injured, for it is from this point that the one or more young plants lets develop. The leaf-like bracts on the flowering; stock of many species are very easily detached and propagate even more readily than the normal leaves. The above method is adapted to the acaulescent species of echeveria. With the caulescent species the rosette is cut from the top of the stem and treated as a cutting. The parent plant, thus pruned, will soon throw out a number of growths from the dormant lateral buds. As soon as these have formed rosettes of about an inch in diameter they, too, may be removed and will readily grow as cuttings.
Many Crassulaceae:, and echeverias in particular, suffer severely from attacks on their roots and the base of the stem by nematodes. For this reason only clean fresh or sterilized soil should be used in growing them. The various genera and species may be grafted back and forth but no special advantage is to be gained by the process. It is also possible to hybridize between the genera and the species, and a number of interesting results have been secured. Some of the echeveria hybrids have proved to be valuable additions to the group used in design work or for bordering other beds.
Asclepiadaceae; is most commonly represented in collections by the genus Stapelia. These plants fare excellently when given the treatment recommended for cacti. The chief difficulty in growing them, in the past, seems to have been their proneness to decay at the surface of the soil, especially in wintertime. This is easily prevented. See that the drainage is perfect and use porous sandy soil. Spread the roots out on the surface of the soil and cover not more than 1/2 inch deep with more soil. Over this place an inch layer of gravel about
the size of peas. Their susceptibility to decay at the surface is comparable to the damping-off of seedlings. The mulch of gravel is invaluable in remedying both maladies. Keep the soil moist but never saturated, and do not permit the roots to become excessively dry. This treatment will insure good continuous healthy growth and, in autumn, a reward of many attractive flowers. The other genera require like treatment. Grafting of genera and species is easily effected but of no special cultural value. Owing to the highly specialized structure of the flower in Asclepiadaceae;, it has thus far been impossible to effect artificial pollination, although natural hybrids through the agency of flies, are very common. This is especially true in stapelias. Bigeneric hybrids have been reported.
Dyckia and hechtia of the Bromeliaceae and yucca, and the aloe group of the Liliáceae;, should receive the same treatment as agave. The species are more commonly propagated by seeds, and the hybrids by division and stem-cuttings or division of the crown. Senecio (Kleinia), of the Composita;, may be propagated either by seeds or by cuttings. With them, also, grafting is possible. C. H. Thompson.
Topiary planting and garden architecture.
Topiary work includes sheared hedges, pollarded trees, clipped individual shrubs, whether shaped into simple, rounded, or pointed form, or into more elaborate designs. It includes the trimming of masses of foliage into the form of birds, beasts, furniture, architecture, and other conceits. The more intricate designs are usually attempted in evergreen plants.—Garden architecture comprises all structural or architectural ebments introduced into the landscape except the main buildings that are to serve the primary uses of a property. This definition thus includes all walls, trellages, posts, gates, pavilions, exedras, loggias, pergolas, shelters, fountains, bridges, seats, pavements; closely related with it are garden and lawn ornaments and furniture, such as statuary, vases, urns, dials, bird-fountains, lanterns, and the like. It includes the plain, the simple, and the rustic, as well as the more elaborate, ambitious, or ornate. Virtually all of the historical architectural styles are represented or suggested in the forms of garden architecture. For interesting illustrations and discussions of these subjects, the reader should consult Blomfield and Thomas, "The Formal Garden" (London), from which Figs. 3018 to 3023 are adapted. Compare, also, Fig. 3025. Fig. 3024 shows a common form of vase, used not so much for its architectural placing as for a receptacle in which to grow flowers.
Topiary and garden architecture, although distinct and separate, are nevertheless essentially related, both in origin and in use. Both have their inception in the virtually universal formality of all early landscape design, and historically and at the present day they frequently stand side by side as related elements of a design.
For many centuries gardening was conducted behind inclosing and protecting walls, a practice made necessary by the uncivilized conditions. In general, such inclosed gardens were rectangular or geometrically regular, and comparatively small. They existed in immediate proximity to the owner's dwelling or adjacent to the building. The necessity of conserving ground and of utilizing it most efficiently lead naturally to arrangement and planting in straight lines and rows. Utility having thus first determined a regular arrangement of plant-materials in close proximity to architecture, esthetic composition, in its turn, attracted the attention of more cultured man and formal design in landscape gradually evolved.
Both garden architecture and topiary are attributes of the formal in landscape design, which is determined
by lines, axes, and balance of parts. The inappropriate use of either results in inharmonious and bad design and constitutes an esthetic abuse.
The following plants are well adapted to topiary treatment :
Note: E moans plants evergreen.
P means plant mustpe protected in climate of Boston.
S means plant is semi-evergreen.
Acer campestre.
Acer platanoidee var. globosum.
Berbería Thunbergii.
E—fiuxiLs japónica.
EP—Buxus senmervirens.
Carpinus Betulua.
Carpinus Betulus var. globosa.
Catalpa bignonioides var. nana (=C. Bungei in the trade but not the true C. Bungei from northern China). A dwnrf variety of the southern catalpa often grafted high on upright stem. E—Chamsecyparis nootkatensis. E—Chamípcyparis obtusa var. nana (=Retinispora in the trade).
Cornus mas.
Cratagus Oxyacantha.
Evonymus alata. E—Evonymus radicans. EP—Ilex erenata. (A small-leaved variety of this has grown in the
Arnold Arboretum at Boston entirely unprotected.) E—Ilex glabra.
Ligustrum Ibota.
Ligustrum Ibota var. Regelianum.
PS—Ligustrum ovalifolium.
S—Ligustrum vulgäre.
E—Picea excelsa.
E—Picea orientalis.
E—Pinua Cembra. .
E—Pinus densiflora var. pumila.
E—Pinus montana.
E—Pinus montana var. Mughus.
E—ilhamnus cathartica.
E—Taxus cuspidata.
E—Taxus cuspidata var. brevifolia.
E—Tsuga canadensis.
Viburnum Opulus var. nanum.
Viburnum prunifolium.
In the growing of the plants for topiary use, no special care is required except, to be sure that the plants are well grown in the nursery, vigorous, and naturally thick-topped and fine-twigged. If the piece
is to be a hedge or continuous line, the plants should be very uniform in size and vigor when set and the ground should be prepared in uniform condition so that all the subjects will have equal chance. The plants should be set close together. Clipping should be begun soon after the plants are established to keep them close and to develop and preserve the side and lower branches; and the clipping should be practised several times each year. If the plants once overgrow, so that they become open and scraggly below, they can never be brought into good condition. Great care must be exercised to see that insects and disease do not get started, and that the plants suffer neither from drought nor wet feet and that they are well supplied with nourishment. See Hedges.
Topiary work, as well as architecture, appears in gardens of many different ages. In fact, the whole history of gardens but emphasizes the continued use of formal foliage and architecture as essential elements in their design. As stated by Blomfield, "The word 'garden' itself means an enclosed space, a garth or yard surrounded by walls, as opposed to an unenclosed field or woods. The formal garden, with its insistence on strong bounding lines, is, strictly speaking, the only 'garden' . . . ; and it is not till the decay of architecture, which began in the middle of the eighteenth century, that any other method of dealing with a garden was entertained." The common use of hedges for the inclosing of gardens doubtless came into use when the more settled conditions made it unnecessary to retain masonry walls for protection.
In the writings of Pliny the Younger, who was bom A. D. 62, is the most complete description of the Roman gardens. In a letter addressed to his friend Appolinaris, he describes the garden attached to his Tuscan villa: "In front of the Portico is a sort of Terrace, embellished with various figures, and bounded by a Box Hedge, from which you descend by an easy slope, adorned with the representation of divers animals in Box, answering alternately to each other; this is surrounded by a walk enclosed with tonsile evergreens, shaped into a variety of forms. Behind it is the Ges- tatio, laid out in the form of a Circus, ornamented in the middle with Box, cut into numberless different figures, together with a plantation of shrubs prevented by the shears from running up too high; the whole is fenced by a wall, covered with Box rising in different ranges to the top . . . ." After describing several summer-houses he proceeds: "In front of these agreeable buildings is a spacious Hippodrome encompassed on every side by Plane Trees covered with Ivy. Beneath each Plane are planted Box Trees, and behind thsse, Bays which blend their shade with that of the Plane Trees. This plantation forms a straight boundary on each side of the Hippodrome. . . . Having passed through these winding allies, you enter a straight walk, which breaks out into a variety of others divided
off by box hedges. In one place you have a little meadow; in another the Box is cut into a thousand different forms; sometimes into letters expressing the name of the master; sometimes that of the artificer; whilst here and there little Obelisks rise intermixed alternately with fruit Trees; when on a sudden you are surprised with an imitation of the negligent beauties of rural Nature, in the center of which lies a spot surrounded with a knot of dwarf Plane Trees. Beyond these is a walk . . . where also Trees are cut into a variety of names and shapes. ... At the upper end is an Alcove of white marble shaded with Vines, supported by four small Pillars of Corystian Marble. From this bench the water, gushing through several small pipes, falls into a stone Cistern beneath, from whence it is received into a fine polished Marble Basin, so artfully contrived, that it is always full without ever overflowing. . . . Corresponding to this is a fountain, which is incessantly emptying and filling; for the Water, which it throws up to a great height, falling back again into it, is, by means of two openings, returned as fast as it is received. Fronting the Alcove stands a Summer House of exquisite Marble, whose doors project into a green enclosure; as from its upper and lower windows the eye is presented with a variety of different Verdures. Next to this is a little private closet .... Here also a fountain rises and instantly disappears; in different quarters are disposed several marble seats, which serve, as well as the Summer House, as so many reliefs wnen one is wearied by walking. Near each seat is a little fountain; and throughout the whole Hippodrome, several small Rills run murmuring along, wheresoever the hand of Art thought proper to conduct them, watering here and there spots of verdure, and in their progress refreshing the whole."
The Romans, establishing themselves in England, built gardens in which topiary work was doubtless to be found. Otherwise, in England prior to about the eleventh or twelfth centuries, gardening as an art of design and taste can scarcely be said to have existed. It is recorded, however, that in 1123 Henry the First formed a park at Woodstock, and it is the first of which authentic record has been preserved. It was probably intended chiefly as a game-preserve but contained, however, a labyrinth. And it is recorded as the custom of the times for the nobility to develop pleasure-gardens in the orchards beyond the walls of their castles, the chief embellishments of which consisted in "plants cut into monstrous figures, labyrinths, etc."
It is in the gardens of England of the early Renaissance periods and shortly before this time that the most extensive use of topiary work is found, in the greatest varietv and elaboration of form. Topiary art was practised, howeyer, in all European countries for centuries. It has been given particular and peculiar expression in each of several countries. The Dutch developed the art of carving in verdure at an early date and many strange and curious forms in box, along with many rare and flowering plants, were introduced into England from Holland. In France and Italy it was not so much a large variety of elaborate and intricate topiary as an extensive use of the simpler forms of clipped foliage as a means of gaining effect in larger, more monumental, and pretentious landscape arrangements than were elsewhere undertaken. The architectural gardens of the Italian Renaissance exemplify the effective and appropriate use of architecture in the garden. Here trees, naturally formal in habit, are combined with sheared hedges and edgings. These wonderful gardens teach the remarkable effectiveness
of such method in design when executed by the master hand.
The designers of the tremendous and monumental landscape arrangements executed in France in the later Renaissance periods gained distinctive effects by the very bold use of sheared foliage; they virtually carved their broad axially related plans out of the woodland. The "Bosque" in French design is comparable to the "Topiary grotesque" in the English. The French parterre gardens, in which intricate and elaborate geometrical designs are worked out in low sheared foliage or bed edging and white or colored gravel, are another expression developing from the same original motive as produced the topiary bird.
In the colonial gardens in America topiary work was common, mostly in the simpler form of clipped hedges, generally of box, and boxedged parterre gardens. Remains of many of these old gardens are still to be found in the Atlantic states, and a few old gardens are still in a good state of preservation and cultivation. The box-garden at Mount Vernon is perhaps the most noted, and is in an excellently preserved and restored state at the present time. See Plate XLVI, Vol. III.
A moderate amount of interesting and good topiary work is under way in gardens in this country today, and a few nurserymen are in position to furnish good clipped specimens in a variety of designs. The use of topiary work other than simple clipped hedges should be carefully and advisedly undertaken, however, for it is appropriate only when the whole architectural style of a property makes it suitable and when it becomes an inherent part of the scheme as a whole.
Garden architecture.
Any structure or structural element placed out-of-doors in nature takes on the significance of architecture, and must bear judgment as such. Landscape as such is either nature's work or man's work with nature's materials in their natural form. The placing of architecture in the landscape is always the combining of the obviously artificial with the natural, and the two must be brought into harmony. It is a deplorable fact that when, with the exercise of judgment and good taste, it is possible to attain harmony in the least costly as well as in the most expensive, so much bad and inharmonious architecture encumbers the landscape.
Under any circumstances, architecture becomes to some extent a feature of accent in the landscape, at jeast within its immediate surroundings. It is emphatic in contrast with its setting and always functions as focalizing the composition of which it forms a part.
In general, it is wiser to attempt a simple design and insure its substantial construction than to undertake the ornate in garden architecture. There is a world of interesting precedent in simple designs for the many smaller architectural embellishments of the garden, such as summer-houses or pools, pavements, seats, dial- bases, boxes, tubs, jars, and other ornaments and accessories. The use of simple boxes or ordinary pots
for flowers and specimen plants is to be encouraged, and the conversion of such inappropriate materials as plumbing fixtures into garden ornaments is to be condemned. The usual cast-iron vases and the like are marks of a passing era of bad taste. In lawn pottery, in the form of pots and vases, excellent designs are now to be had, as also of sun-dials.
No one consideration is more important than that the architectural style of even the simplest seat or sun-dial be similar to that found in the larger architecture of the building or buildings to which the landscape development may be related.
A number of reputable firms now produce substantially made garden furniture in considerable variety of good designs and in many different materials. Particularly good garden seats and garden pottery are now obtainable at reasonable prices and may be found in shops in some of the larger cities. The advertisements and trade catalogues of the manufacturing concerns are interesting and instructive.
However, the obtaining of individually well-designed and substantial articles having been assured, there remains still the selection of appropriate patterns. Garden architecture should correspond to the style, architectural and otherwise, of a property as a whole. Its appropriate use is its justification.
Rustic work is fitting and often most appropriate in a naturalistic setting. It is, however, architecture and should be so designed as to bear analysis as such. It should be structural in its line, and substantial. It is best when simple and unobtrusive in design. It is seldom appropriate when fantastic or whimsical. The occasional use of rustic work in such way that in its rough character it appears almost to have grown up with the surrounding wild conditions is very pleasing, particularly good unobtrusive seats, bridges, and shelters.
Eugene D. Montillon.
Planting for winter effect.
Winter is the season when there is the least sunshine, and the least sign of life and color in vegetation. As a floral festival, Christmas ranks second to Easter, owing doubtless to the relative scarcity and higher cost of materials. The ideal is for every family to grow its own flowers for Christmas gifts, but most persons have to content themselves with less personal products purchased from the florist. Holly is the symbol of Christmas as the lily is of Easter, each exemplifying the dominant color of the season. The popular demand in winter is for signs of hope and courage—hence the red berry, flower, or ribbon.
The phrase "winter-garden" has been used for a great variety of projects, indoors and out, ranging from the metropolitan restaurant with a few bay trees in tubs, to a winter home in Florida where one may work outdoors every day and all day. Notable progress has been made along many lines since 1900 in the art of living the year round amid beautiful vegetation.
Planting Indoor winter-gardens.
Perhaps the oldest use of the phrase winter-garden refers to a type of unheated or little-heated greenhouse which was popular in England when plants from the Cape and Australia were fashionable, but was generally a museum of potted plants rather than a garden. A new stage began in America about 1905, when Mrs. J. W . Stewart, of Glen Ridge, New Jersey, made a real garden under glass. (C. L. A. 13:168-70.) It has a broad lawn to tread upon, instead of narrow concrete walks, and in place of potted plants raised in tiers for show, there is a continuous border 3 to 4 feet wide, with bulbs and other flowers growing out of the earth at the familiar garden level. The temperature is that of a living-room. Another new stage began in 1906 when the conservatories in Garfield Park, Chicago, were completed. These were not the first attempts at landscape gardening under glass on a large scale, but they are believed to be the most impressive series of indoor nature-pictures in the world. Portable greenhouses and window-gardens now make it possible even for renters to have something more than a few potted plants on the window-sill. Those who can afford no glass may at least force twigs in water, preferring the early bloomers, like peach, plum, and forsythia to the late bloomers, like lilac and dogwood. In this line, the most notable achievement, of late, is the forcing of stems 6 to 8 feet high, by keeping them in a slightly heated attic until wanted for the living-room.
Planting Outdoor winter-gardens.
The southern states have a winter climate that makes outdoor work pleasant, and a landscape rich in types of beauty, as evergreen magnolias, long-leaved pines, and winter roses. Southern winter-gardens have their problems, but they can receive less notice here than the more acute problems of northern climates. A country with an evergreen grass, like Ireland, has a great advantage over America for winter beauty. English children are well protected from bitter winds by the omnipresent walled-garden or high-hedged home grounds. The formal winter-garden of England is often merely a straight walk, between high walls of clipped yew. Wordsworth's winter-garden is an early example of the naturalistic winter-garden, i. e., a sheltered spot surrounded by informal masses of trees and shrubs noted for their winter attractions.
In the northern states, however, it is neither safe nor pleasant to garden out-of- doors every day, and the winter landscape is commonly bleak, ugly, bare, or commonplace. Our most pressing problem, usually, is shelter from winds. On the plains and prairies many homes are surrounded by shelter-belts, but the landscape effect is not the best, owing to the artificial outlines of the farmsteads, the ill-concealed barnyards, and the inferior species used—soft maple, box elder, Norway spruce. Windbreaks in straight lines, protecting orchards or stock, sometimes give a spirited army-like effect, but may become monotonous in a country where everything seems to be rectangular. In the East naturalistic shelter-belts are commoner. The practice of moving large evergreens with a half-frozen ball has developed notably since 1900, and full-grown evergreen hedges can be secured to shelter winter playgrounds. Most persons see little beauty in the northern winter landscape. It is true that the East has little brilliant color or living green compared with England, China, or Japan, while the prairies and great plains have still less. Nature-study, however, opens the eyes of the people to a new world of beauty in outline and structure of trees, their trunks, and winter buds. The universal instinct for bright color, however, ought also to be gratified, and every family can receive and give satisfaction by means of foundation planting. Unfortunately, New York and Philadelphia may not have monumental evergreens to the extent that every London yard has box and holly, aucuba and veronica, yet many eastern homes may have mountain laurel on the sunny sides and rhododendron on the shady sides. Among the conifers most persons prefer the brilliant quick-growing but short-lived Japan cypresses, while lovers of permanence are willing to wait for Canadian and Japanese yew, Mugho pine, and Canadian juniper. Two superb evergreen vines, European ivy and evergreen bittersweet (Evonymus radicans var. vejeta), enliven house walls of brick and stone. On sunny days the red branches of Siberian dogwood are a cheery sight. Among the shrubs with brightly colored berries, the favorite for foundation planting is the Japanese barberry, largely because its red fruits are attractive all winter.
Types of winter-gardens.
Evergreen winter-gardens,—Perhaps the oldest type of winter-garden is the pinetum, which is primarily a collection of evergreens, but is also full of beauty during the period when other trees are leafless. One example is the Hunnewell collection at Wellesley, Massachusetts, part of which is doubled in beauty by reflection in a lake. Another example is the conifer valley in the Arnold Arboretum, which has a brook meandering through the center, while the heights are crowned by trees, the cultivated specimens on one side being balanced by a noble hemlock forest on the other. In the pinetum at Highland Park, Rochester, New York, the walk runs through the grassy center of the valley, with dwarf evergreens ascending the banks, these being disposed at convenient levels and distances for the eye, so that the different textures may be enjoyed to the full. The apparent height of this shallow valley is increased by planting the ridges with the tallest evergreens.
Shrubby winter-gardens. — Every arboretum or botanical garden is likely to have a fruticetum, or collection of shrubs. A garden composed almost exclusively of shrubs is attractive throughout the growing season, as well as during winter. There is a naturalistic winter-garden at Llyndanwalt, Abington, Pennsylvania, where a wood of about an acre near the house has been provided with features of year-round interest, including a rhododendron collection, a dense underplanting of young hemlocks, and a border of shrubbery selected with special reference to winter beauty. From the outside, these shrubs give privacy, shelter, and color in delightful contrast to the ordinary wooded pasture, which is rather colorless. From the interior these shrubs animate the trails and enliven the outlooks that have been purposely left toward the best features of the landscape.
Skating-ponds.—It is now the fashion to border skating-ponds with shrubs that have brightly colored twigs. On sunny days these furnish bold masses of color that harmonize with the vigorous mood and gay costumes of the skaters. After providing for the casino and for the snow that must be removed from the ice, there is generally ample room for a collection of showy dogwoods, willows, and wild roses. At Rochester, New York is a charming example, the shrubs being allowed to interlace like an old woodland border, so that the color of the twigs steals upon one unconsciously.
Gardenesque effects.—That it is possible to spoil even a winter landscape by overdoing color has been much demonstrated recently in parks, where nurserymen and gardeners have been allowed to plant large masses of Siberian dogwood and salmon-barked willow, the brightest of all winter reds. Such swamp-type plants are particularly inappropriate and gaudy on hilltops. A more poetic effect is produced by the "sunset willow" of the prairie states, a species of uncertain botanical status known to collectors as Saliae longifolia. It is common along middle-western streams. The most brilliant but least tasteful effects produced with shrubs that have brightly colored bark are in reality the carpet- bedding system. The willows and dogwoods are cut to the ground every year or two, in order to produce the greatest number of showy shoots, which are kept at a height of about 3 feet. This system sacrifices height, habit, and dignity to display. A standard park effect is white pine bordered by Siberian dogwood, which is about the strongest contrast that is in good taste on lawns. Perhaps the strongest contrast furnished by nature in the North is hemlock and canoe birch.
Winter walks.—The cheapest and most practical winter-garden for the largest number, may be a simple walk leading to the front, back, or side door, bordered by shrubs and trees, of which half or more have winter attractions. Brick set on concrete is considered pleasanter to the eye and foot than concrete, and is drier than grass. The tapestry type of brick set on edge is expensive, but gives a rich texture.
Materials for Winter-gardening.
One hundred and twenty-eight trees and shrubs that have pronounced winter beauty were listed by John Dunbar from the Rochester parks, not including the evergreens or plants that lose their vivid color before the end of the holidays. With such a wealth of material there should be little excuse for bare and ugly surroundings. Only the classes of materials may be mentioned and exemplified here.
Broad-leaved evergreens.—These are often more expensive than the narrow-leaved evergreens, and of smaller stature, but they have more ample foliage and frequently showier flowers or fruits. All require special care. Examples are American holly, mountain laurel, Rhododendron catawbiense and R. maaeimum, evergreen thorn, trailing myrtle, evergreen bitter-sweet, box.and its substitute, Ileae crenata var. microphylla. The English standard of beauty is European holly, laurel, and hybrid rhododendrons, because the darkest and shiniest foliage is commonly thought to be more beautiful than the duller and yellow-green type. A more practical standard for our climate is furnished by American holly, laurel, and rhododendron. In nurseries where both classes of plants may be observed, the European kinds are unquestionably rich and aristocratic, but sound a foreign note, while the native kinds have a cheery, sunny color that is eloquent of adaptation to our climate and scenery. The same principle applies to the narrow-leaved evergreens, Irish yew being commonly but mistakenly preferred to Canadian or Japanese yew. Semi-evergreens, like Hall's honeysuckle, are listed in this work under Autumn-Gardening.
Narrow-leaved evergreens.—The European standards are Scotch and Austrian pine, Norway spruce, silver fir, Irish juniper, and Irish yew. These are climatic misfits in America and constitute the bulk of the evergreen planting east of the Rockies that proves unsatisfactory. The American standards are white pine, hemlock, Douglas spruce, concolor fir, red cedar, and Canadian yew. The types of beauty represented in the two lists are not closely comparable.
Deciduous trees and shrubs.—Though lacking in brilliant color, the following are standards of quiet beauty. Marked for their outline or habit are pin oak, sweet gum, white birch, pepperidge, sassafras, tulip tree, white oak, and sycamore. Noted for their winter buds are flowering dogwood, beech, shagbark, balm of Gilead, honey locust, swamp bay, sassafras, and pussy willow. Familiar by their trunks are beech, birch, shagbark, sycamore, white oak, tulip tree, sweet gum, flowering dogwood, and mountain-ash.
Shrubs with brightly colored berries.—These materials do more to transform ordinary city lots than any others here mentioned. Shrubs cost less than evergreens mature more quickly than trees, are fairly permanent, and are cheap. Of the shrubs with decorative fruits, there are two main groups based on duration. Those which are attractive all winter, like barberries, must be reckoned more valuable than those which drop by New Year's or cease to be attractive then, like snow- berry and Indian currant. Each of these groups may be divided again on a basis of color. Red is the favorite color, because it seems to give the most warmth at the time it is most needed. Consequently the most popular shrubs for winter berries are the common and Japanese barberries, the multiflora and prairie roses, and the high-bush cranberry, all of which retain their red berries until spring. Of the other red berries, Viburnum dilatatum lasts until April; Japanese bitter-sweet until March; Viburnum Sargentii until February; while the following are attractive until February: Most species of Evonymus and Cotoneaster, Ilex verticillata, and red chokeberry (Aronia arbulifolia). The red-berried species tend to produce yellow varieties, but they have less popular appeal. Blue berries of great beauty are borne by the familiar white fringe and the little known symplocos. Theoretically black is an unattractive color, yet practically the black fruits appear well, especially against the snow, the most familiar example being the massive cluster of California privet, while the open cluster of Regel's privet has more grace. Viburnums furnish many dark berries, as do the following choice plants: Acanthopanae sessiliflorus, Rhamnus carthartica, rhodotypos, PhellUodendron amurense, Rhamnus dahu- rica, and Aronia mclanocarpa. Theoretically white should be the chilliest and least attractive color in winter, yet the snowberry is probably the only bush that is planted almost wholly for its winter berries, and its popularity continues although it often loses its attractiveness before Thanksgiving. The small waxy berries of candleberry (Myrica) are an agreeable sight till January, but this plant is more famous for its fragrance.
Shrubs with brightly colored twigs.—These materials are even more brilliant than shrubs with brightly colored berries. The ordinary 2- to 3-foot bush of barberry has few berries, when planted in the fall, while a Siberian dogwood of the same size is a consistent mass of red from planting day in October until April. These materials are showier on sunny days than clouded ones, and look best when the sun is at one's back. They do tolerably in the smallest yards of large and smoky cities but do not develop the brightest colors in dense shade.
In this group, also, red is the favorite color, the most popular being Siberian dogwood, with the Britzensis willow a fair second, the latter being unsuitable for foundation planting. Vivid color is often confined to twigs or wood a year or two old, as in the Lindens, but a four-year-old Siberian dogwood is showy from the ground up. Those who like a change from the Siberian sometimes plant the silky dogwood, which has purplish red wood, or the quieter-toned stolonifera, but the latter needs a moist situation and is too scaly for foundation planting. Yellow branches are more popular than yellow berries. Willows furnish half a dozen yellow kinds, dogwood two good ones, and yellow poplar one. Vivid green wood is furnished by kerria, Forsythia viridissima, sassafras, Colutea arborescens, and a variety of Cornus sanguínea.
Winter flowers.—The only hardy winter flower of importance is the Christmas rose (Helleborus niger), which blossoms in the North amid or under the snow any time from November to March. Winter crocuses are merely a coldframe hobby for enthusiasts. Scillas and the other March-blooming bulbs are often seen blooming in the snow, but they are essentially spring flowers. A unique and wonderful winter beauty is Pieris floribunda, which seems to be crowned by white flowers, but these are really buds. They are all the more wonderful because naked, and all the more beautiful because set off by evergreen foliage.
Wilhelm Miller.
Planting on walls. (Fig. 3030.)
Wall-gardening and walled gardens are two different departments of horticulture. The walled garden is an old English development based on the need of protecting fruit from thieves and on the fact that grapes and peaches do not ripen in the cool summers of England without extra heat, such as a south wall gathers. Out of these conditions have grown high brick and stone walls aggregating hundreds of miles in extent and forming a familiar sight in the English landscape. The walls have come to be covered with all sorts of fancy fruitS trained like vines. They also shelter many subtropical shrubs trained as climbers, which otherwise could be grown only under glass. Although these walls are often crowned with broken glass or spikes, they are generally beautiful in themselves, or are made so by a clothing of vines. Moreover, earth-filled holes are often purposely left on top for the growing of rock-loving flowers, such as wallflowers, snapdragons, wall pepper, Kenilworth ivy, houseleeks, and wild pinks. Time adds the crowning touch of loveliness by encouraging mosses on the shady side and lichens on the sunny. This type of garden is not common in America because it is very costly to make and also to maintain, owing to the higher cost of skilled labor for training fruits. Moreover, a wall is not necessary in our own hot summer climate for the ripening of grapes and peaches. However, the walled garden will gradually increase in numbers, for several reasons: It offers better protection from thieves than hedges or shrubbery; it makes a kitchen-garden yield from one to three months longer by giving protection from cutting winds and frost; it makes a sheltered outdoor playground for children in winter; it makes an effective background for hardy perennial flowers; and it gives privacy and charm, which gardens open to every eye do not possess.
Wall-gardening, on the other hand, is a modern application, growing out of the English passion for alpine flowers and based largely upon the fact that many of these exquisite flowers perish in the hardy borders, because of the wet English winters, but flourish permanently in the chinks of a wall, where they get better drainage. This is true of wallflowers and snapdragons, which have glorified many ruins for centuries, while on the level ground they are short-lived. Thus, dry-walling became fashionable at the beginning of the twentieth century. It was customary, whenever grading operations left a bank of earth, to put in a retaining wall, avoiding cement, and laying alpine plants between the stones. The popularity of this type of garden is attested by Gertrude Jekylls "Wall- and Water-Gardens," which has thirty-three plates illustrating the construction and main floral effects. Steps are commonly made in such a way that nearly all parts not actually needed for treading are filled with carpets and cushions of rock-loving flowers.
In America, wall-gardening was welcomed as an opportunity to replace some of the artificial, monotonous, and ill-kept grass-banks by retaining-walls clothed with the natural and varied beauty of flowers. Unfortunately, much of the most refined beauty of English wall-gardens, such as the mossy saxifrages give, is impossible here, because the hot summers are unfavorable to the choicer alpines. Analysis of the four largest and most successful examples of wall-gardening known in America in 1914 shows that great and new beauty has been achieved in this way, but that the largest floral effects are made by plants that are not particularly associated with mountains or rocks and which are easy to grow in ordinary gardens without the expense of dry-walling. Such desert plants as the houseleeks and stonecrops spread over large areas. Other successes are rock cress (Arabis albida), woolly chickweed (Cerastium tomentosum), snow-in-summer, woodruff, wild pinks, alpine forget-me-nots, Kenilworth ivy, and veronicas. Such carpets, however, do not have the charm of the dainty rosettes and mossy cushions of the high-altitude alpines, such as saxifrages, primroses, gentians, and edelweiss.
It is possible to have some of these finer things, if one does not stuff the walls with too much earth. This practice, which seems reasonable to every beginner, encourages the plants to make roots within the walls, and such roots are naturally destroyed by the first hot weather. It is better to give them a little grit and only a pinch of earth, so as to force the plants to send long roots through the walls into the earth banks where they will find the moisture, coolness, and drainage that are demanded by high alpines.
Steps have been successfully filled in America with chink-loving flowers, but- most gardeners are conservative about experimenting, declaring that the colder winters of America will cause damage to stone and flowers by the heaving action of frost. It is certainly unwise to have wide spaces between stones filled with material that will expand too much, but the aim should
be to give the plants as little root-room and food as possible in order to encourage their rooting outside the stonework. Wilhelm Miller.
Screen-planting.
From the landscape architect's point of view; screen- planting may be used to hide unsightly objects, to afford protection from prevalent winds, to give a background to the house, to lend an air of privacy and seclusion, or sometimes to add an ornamental feature. It may take the form of deep border planting, narrow hedge lines or mere vine-covered screens. Trees, shrubs, and vines are all available; but, whatever is used, the denser its habit of growth, the better screen it will make. Other things being equal, evergreens are better than deciduous plants, for the latter lose their leaves in winter. However, if evergreens are not available, there are still many deciduous plants whose dense habit of growth make a good screen even after the leaves are gone. A border planting, as in Fig. 2999, is really a screen against objects beyond; so also are such cover-plantings as those in Figs. 3000, 3001, 3031 and others. The real screens, however, are those plantings made for this particular purpose, mostly narrow in form but dense.
Vines for screen-planting.
For brick, stone, tree-trunks, or other solid surface.
Deciduous:
Hydrangea petiolaris (climbs by root-like holdfaste).
Parthenoeissus quinquefolia var. Engelmannii. A variety of Virginia creeper with disks, or suckers, on the ends of the ten- drils, which enable the plant to fasten itself to a surface.
Parthenocissus triouspidata var. Veitchii.
Evergreen:
Evonymus radicans var. vegeta (climbs by root-like holdfasts).
Hedera helix. Somewhat tender; in the N. should be planted where it will be shaded from winter sun or at least have its roots thoroughly mulched and the ground shaded by low growth about its base; climbs by root-like holdfasts.
Rapid-growing vines for banks or unsightly objects. Annuals;
Boussingaultia baselloides. Twining tender perennial treated as an annual, growing from 10 to 15 feet a season; roots must be taken up and stored away from frost.
Calonyction aculeatum (twining).
Echinocystis lobata (self-seeding; tendrils).
Humulus japonicus (twining).
Ipomoea purpurea (twining).
Phaseolus multiflorus (tendrils).
Herbaceous perennials (dying down to the ground but springing up again from the root):
Ipomoea pandurata (twining). This and next have fleshy roots and may become a nuisance if allowed to spread.
Pueraria hirsuta. This is known also in commerce as Dolichos japonicus; grows 40 feet in a season; twining.
Woody perennials (woody stem persisting above ground).
Actinidia arguta (twining).
Aristolochia macrophylla (A. Sipho) (twining).
Celastrus scandens (twining).
Lonicera japónica var. Halliana (twining).
Lycium chínense and L . halimifolium. Both are shrubs with recurving trailing stems which do not twine. Plant must be fastened to its support. Excellent to hold banks, but very vigorous and may become a nuisance.
Tall-growing vines reaching eaves of the house.
Actinidia arguta (vigorous; dark glossy foliage, twining).
Aristolochia macrophylla. Twining; large Heavy foliage; should not be used unless dense shadeis desired.
Campsis radicans. This is a heavy vine climbing by root-like holdfasts which are too weak to hold it in storm or wind; must be fastened to its support. Somewhat tender in the N. and usually has more or less dead wood. Better when used as porch or pillar vine where it can be reached and pruned easily.
Celaatrus scandens (twining).Parthenocissus. All kinds; tendrils with or without disks.
Wisteria chinensis. The finest of tall-growing vines; vigorous and hardy at all times.Vines for foliage only. All in the following list are deciduous, i. e., drop their leaves in winter. The only evergreen vines which can be used in the North are Evonymus radicans and Hedera helix. Even the foliage of Evonymus radicans will occasionally burn in winter although it is hardier than English ivy in this respect. Vinca minor and Pachysandra terminalis are good creeping plants for evergreen ground-cover and Hall's honeysuckle is semi-evergreen, holding good foliage until Christmas. Other flowering vines also good in foliage arc Clematis paniculata, Forsythia suspensa, which is a shrub with recurving and trailing stems excellentfor running over a bank or hanging down a wall, Rosa Wichuraiana and some of its many hybrids,and Wisteria chinensis.
Actinidia arguta.
Akebia quinata. Very graceful vine with delicate five-parted foliage.
semi-evergreen, remaining until January; twining. Aristolochia macrophylla.
Celastrus scandens (berries red and orange all winter; twining).
Lycium halimifolium.
Parthenocissus quinquefolia. Beautiful red autumn color; first vine
to color in the fall; climbs by tendrils usually without disks
except in var. Engelmannii. Parthenocissus tricuspidata var. Veitchii (beautiful autumn color;
climbs by tendrils ending in disks). Smilax rotundifolia. A vigorous wild vine with thick
glossy foliage
enduring both shade and wet soil. Vitis Coignetiae. From Japan; a vigorous grower with immense
leathery leaves usually brown felty beneath; the foliage is
especially strong and bold and turns a rich red color in fall.
Vines for flower. Plants marked with an asterisk(*) have attractive foliage as well as bloom
Campsis radicans. A heavy vine.
Clematis Jackmanii. Climbs by twisting leaf-stems. Flowers large and purple. C. Jackmanii var.alba is similar, but the flowers are creamy white. Both of these are good vines for bloom in July and August.
Clematis paniculata. Climbs as does the preceding species. Flowers small and white, covering
plant with a mass of bloom in September and October. Foliage remains glossy green, good until
December. The best fall-blooming vine.
Forsythia suspensa. Flowers yellow, appearing before the leaves covering the plant with a mass of bloom in April. Flower- buds of ten killed by cold in the northern tier of states.
Lonicera Heckrottii. Climbs by twining. This is a hybrid which blooms continuously during July,August, and September. The flowers are rose outside and yellow inside, and as open and closed flowers are present at the same time they make a very handsome showing. The only objection to the plant is that it is badly infested with aphids or green-flies.
Lonicera japonica var. Halliana. Bloom profuse and fragrant; flowers white, fading yellow in June and July.
Rambler roses, in order of bloom, June and July. These must be tied up. but are hardy without protection except possibly in the northern tier of states. In such cold places one must be content with the upright shrubby Rosa rugosa in white, and red varieties, both single and double, beginning in early June; with the white Rosa multiflora, beginning from middle to late June; and with the pink Prairie, or Michigan, rose (Rosa setigera) which does not begin until the second week in July. R. multiflora and R. setigera are both shrubs with arching habit and have produced many Rambler roses.Of the varieties following ,those marked with the a dagger(+) are the best: + Tausendscbon middle June,double,delicate pink,larger than Dorothy Perkins; Lady Duncan, single, rich salmon-pink; +Excelsa, late June, or early July, a long-season rose,double, rich crimson, a new variety, blooming at the same season as the old Crimson Rambler, but a better color; Dorothy Perkins, early July, double pink; white Dorothy Perkins, a white variety of the preceding; Alberic Barbier, middle July, semi-double or double creamy white, yellow in center, dark yellow in bud, excellent glossy foliage; Aviator Bleriot is a new variety, very similar to Alberic Barbier; +Hiawatha. middle July, a long-season rose, single, bright red with white center and yellow stamens; +Mrs. H. M.Walsh, middle July, double, white,same long season and good foliage as Rosa Wichuraiana, the Memorial rose of which it is practically a
double form; +R.Wichuraiana, which is blooming at this time, is the parent of many of the varieties named above, and is itself a very attractive rose.
Wisteria chinensis. A strong, twining vine, with long, hanging clusters of white or purple
flowers, according to variety, in middle and late May. Leaves alternate, compound, large, loose, and feathery. Beautiful in flower, graceful in habit, satisfactory in foliage, and vigorous and hardy at all times.
Large trees for wind protection and for background setting to the house.
Deciduous: These deciduous types are dense and compact in habit and make a good screen or background even after the leaves are gone in winter.
Acer platanoides.
Acer saccharum.
Esculus Hippocastanum.
Fagus sylvatica.
Quercus alba.
Tilia europaea.
Evergreen: The Scotch pine (Pinus sylvestris), Norway spruce (Picea excelsa), and Colorado blue spruce (Picea pungens) are probably the three most commonly planted evergreen trees. The Scotch pine is the best of the three for neutral mass planting but none is so satisfactory as the hemlock or the pines listed below. The Scotch pine has an irregular spreading habit with bluish green foliage, salmon-colored limbs and trunk and picturesque habit when old. It grows rapidly but is shortlived in America. The Norway spruce and Colorado blue spruce are both conical
evergreens and for this reason alone they are always emphatic and conspicuous. Even when planted in mass the individuals are so distinct that it requires years for them to merge into a uniform solid mass. Comparing a solid planting of Norway spruce with a similar planting of
hemlock, it is seen that in fhe former every individual spruce is stiff and conical and remains so for years, while the hemlocks with their graceful form and habit have lost their individuality and merged into one indefinite mass. The Norway spruce is also too somber and
funereal for cheerful home-ground planting. It is also short-lived in America and while hardy and rapid-growing it begins to go back and die at the top after forty or fifty years except in very favorable locations. The Colorado blue spruce is also short-lived in the eastern states and is altogether too conspicuous and emphatic both in form and color for neutral background planting.
Pinus austriaca.
Pinus resinosa.
Pinus Strobus,
Pseudotsuga taxifolia. This is a large conical tree like Norway spruce and therefore not so good for neutral background planting as either the pines or the hemlock mentioned in this same list. But it is the best of the conical spruce or fir type because more graceful in habit, with
soft more flexible foliage which is green or gray-green in color. It is a vigorous grower and though little known it is a very promising evergreen tree. Only the Rocky Mountain form is hardy in tne East.
Tsuga canadensis, the common hemlock.
Rapid-growing trees for screens. As a class, the rapid- growing trees are weak-wooded and transient. They are cheap and are usually thought of as fillers for temporary or quick effects until more permanent trees can be established.
Deciduous:
Acer Negundo.
Acer saccharinum.
Populus, Carolina poplar.
Evergreen:
Picea excelsa.
Pinus sylvestris. These are probably the fastest growing evergreen trees but they are not so long-lived as white pine, nor do they make either as graceful or as effective screen.
Screens tall and narrow (10 to 15 feet). Space the plants 2-3 feet apart in single row. For taller and more rapid-growing material, use Lombardy poplar (Populus nigra var. italica), or
upright sugar maple (Acer saccharum var. monumentale), 6 feet apart in the row. This latter is a new and very desirable form. It is durable and slower-growing like the sugar maple but narrow and upright like the Lombardy poplar. Bolle's poplar (Populus alba var. pyramidalis) is a
narrow upright form of the European white poplar and is just as undesirable as that tree. Moreover, the white woolly coating on the under side of the leaves makes the tree very conspicuous and when pronounced color is thus added to narrow upright form the tree becomes too emphatic for ordinary use. The Lombardy poplar with its normal green foliage is much safer to use when either vertical emphasis or a tall narrow screen is needed.
Deciduous:
Carpinus Betulus var. globosa. This is a compact upright variety of the European hornbeam. Excellent hedge-plant but very slow- growing. A plant standing in the open at Arnold Arboretum, Boston, has grown 6 feet wide and 12 feet high in 25 years. Perfectly hardy and,like Berberis Thunbergii, so dense that it makes a definite screen even after the leaves have fallen.
Quercus pedunculata var. fastigiata compacta (a compact upright form of the English oak).
Evergreen :Chamaecyparis nootkatensis. This is little known in the East as yet but has all the requirements for an ideal hedge-plant, tall and narrow. Plante observed in the open at Ithaca, New York, are perfectly hardy and have grown 5 feet wide and 7 feet high in twelve years. They
have not been protected nor trimmed nor specially cared for in any way. They are upright and oval in shape and very dense and compact. The foliage is thick and soft to the touch.
Juniperus chinensis. Resembles the native red cedar, J. vir- giniana, but is better because the foliage does not brown in winter. Also the leaves are more spreading and their bluish gray upper surfaces more noticeable which gives the spray a fuller and lighter-colored appearance.
Juniperus communis var. hibernica. This should be trained in the nursery to one central stem. When young the Irish juniper is a handsome narrow upright plant with bright gray-green foliage; but it grows much more rapidly than other cedars and soon looks miserable because, as now grown, its more or less equal upright parts become too heavy to support themselves and spread apart destroying the symmetry of the plant as well as revealing the dead and unsightly inner foliage.
Juniperus virginiana.
Taxus baccata var. hibernica (not quite hardy above N. Y. City).
Thuya occidentalis var. pyramidalis.
Thuya orientalis. This resembles the native arborvitae but is more handsome. Its branches and branchlets are also more distinctly vertical and the foliage smaller and brighter green.
Shrubs for screen border-planting.
Small (2 to 4 feet) (other native plants not so dense in
habit but with good foliage will make very effective screen-planting when massed together):
Deciduous :
Berberís Thunbergii (occasionally 6 feet).
Catalpa Bungei. This is the trade name for C. bignonioides var. nana. It is simply a dwarf variety of the southern catalpa and makes a dense round bush when growing on its own roots. It is often grafted high on upright stem and planted as a substitute for bay trees.
Chaenomeles japonica.
Deutxia gracílis (2 to 3 feet).
Deutxia Lemoinei (3 to 4 feet).
Dirca palustris. This has thornless flexible leathery twigs but is dense and symmetrical like Berberis Thunbergii. If allowed to grow naturally it will make good low hedge.
Hypericum aureum.
Hypericum prolificum.
Kerria japonica.
Ligustrum ibota var. Regelianum.
Ligustrum ovalifolium. This is not hardy north of Philadelphia and can be used only for low hedge in the North. May be cut to the ground and will spring up vigorously every year.
Lonicera thibetica.
Lycium chínense.
Lycium halimifolium.
Philadelphus coronarius var. nanus (2 to 3 feet).
Philadelphus Lemoinei (in variety, especially var. Avalanche Candelabre, and Gerbe de Neige).
Philadelphus microphyllus (this and P. coronarius are the original parents of the Lemoine hybrids).
Rhus canadensis.
Rosa rugosa (often 5 or 6 feet high but better if kept low and vigorous by frequent renewal from the base.
Rosa rugosa var. Blanche de Coubert (beautiful semi-double, white).
Rosa spinosíssima var. altaica (often 5 feet).
Spiraea Bumalda, Anthony Waterer variety (2 feet).
Spiraea japónica (3 feet).
Spiraea Thunbergii.
spiraea trilobata.
Symphoricarpos albus (often 5 feet).
Symphoricarpos orbiculatus (2 to 3 feet),
Vaccinium corymbosum (often 5 to 6 feet).
Viburnum Opulus var. nanum (2 to 3 feet. Seldom has flowers). Evergreen :
Buxus japonica. A new and hardy box; will probably reach 8 feet, but is slow-growing and easily
restrained by clipping.
Buxus sempervirens. Must be protected in the North but is hardy and tree-like in the South.
Chamaecyparis obtusa var. nana (6 to 8 feet, but very slow- growing and easily restrained).
Evonymus radicans var. vegeta (2 to 3 feet; with a little clipping can be brought into a low
natural hedge mass).
Ilex glabra.
Picea excelsa var. Clanbraziliana.
Pieris floribunda (2 to 3 feet).
Pinus densiflora var. pumila (often 6 feet).
Pinus montana var. Mughus (often 5 to 6 feet).
Rhododendron, Boule de Neige (white, blooming-period early).
Rhododendron carolinianum. Color lavender-pink, blooming- period very early. See note on page 2692.
Taxus cuspidata, var. brevifolia.
Thuya occidentalis var. nana. This may reach 3 to 4 feet but is very slow-growing and easily
restrained by clipping.
Thuya orientalis var. nana. This may reach 3 to 4 feet but is very slow-growing and is easily
restrained by clipping.
Medium (6 to 8 feet) (other native plants not so dense in habit but with good foliage will make
very effective screen-planting when massed together):
Deciduous:
Acanthopanax pentaphyllus.
Acer palmatum (often larger but slow-growing).
Berberis vulgaris.
Cornus paniculata.
Evonymus alata.
Forsythia suspensa. Good definite form and best for individual specimen planting.
Ilex verticillata.
Lonicera fragrantíssima.
Lonicera Morrowii.
Myrica carolinensis. Sometimes much larger than 6-8 ft. Can be kept lower very easily by thinning out and renewing from the base. Is still known in commerce as M. cerífera. Ranges
north to Nova Scotia near the coast. Is more shrubby, with blunt leaves which are broader and more oblong than those of M. cerífera.
Philadelphus inodorus. Has more definite and graceful form than P. coronarius and dark green almost glossy foliage.
Rhodotypos kerrioides.
Spiraea bracteata.
Spiraea gemmata.
Spiraea prunifolia yar. flore-pleno.
Spiraea Vanhouttei.
Evergreen:
Ilex crenata.
Kalmia latifolia (sometimes higher than 6 to 8 feet).
Picea orientalis. Large tree but adapted to small-scale planting because very alow-growing and also because easily restrained by pruning or pinching back.
Rhododendron, Caractacus (color bright red, blooming-period medium).
Rhododendron catawbiense var. album. Compact habit of R. catawbiense but flowers white,
blooming-period early.
Rhododendron delicatissimum (color blush-white, blooming- period late).
Rhododendron Everestianum (color lavender, blooming-period early).
Rhododendron, H. W. Sargent (color dark red, blooming- period late).
Rhododendron, Lady Armstrong (color pink, blooming-period early to medium).
Rhododendron purpureum elegans (color purple, blooming- period medium).
Taxus cuspidata.
Tsuga canadensis. The most graceful and effective large evergreen for screen-planting. Takes up lees room than white pine and is much slower-growing. Can be restrained easily and therefore is
adapted to small-scale planting. Large (10 to 15 feet) (other native plants not so dense in
habit but with good foliage will make very effective screen-planting when massed together):
Deciduous:
Acer campestre (small compact tree, dense foliage).
Acer ginnala (gorgeous autumn color).
Acer platanoides var. globosum (dwarf, dense, slow-growing).
Benzoin aestivale.
Berbería ariatata.
Carpinus Betulus. Much used for hedges. Better than our native hornbeam, Carpinua caroliniana.
Cornus mas (small compact tree, 15 to 20 feet).
Cotinus Coggygria.
Crataegus coccínea.
Crataegus Crus-galli.
Crataegus Oxyacantha var. Paulii.
Crataegus punctata. All these thorns are better as natural screens with room to spread at the
bottom than when confined in restricted hedge lines.
Hibiscus syriacus. Ten feet, dense and compact making good tall hedge, but thin at bottom.
Plant low dense shrubs in front. The white variety is the best.
Laburnum alpinum (compact large shrub or small tree 20 to 30 feet high).
Ligustrum Ibota.
Ligustrum vulgare.
Lonicera tatarica.
Philadelphus coronarius.
Pyrua coronaria (small tree).
Pyrus pulcherrima (small tree).
Rhamnus cathartica.
Rhamnua Frangula.
Syringa chinensis var. alba.
Syringa chinensis var. Sougeana (var. rubra).
Syringa vulgaris.
Viburnum dentatum. Will reach 10 to 12 feet, but may be restrained easily by gradual renewal
from the base.
Viburnum Lantana.
Viburnum prunifolíum (small tree).
Evergreen:
Ilex opaca.
Pinus montana a low, bushy tree, 20 feet high and 20 feet broad; very slow-growing.
Pinus Strobus. Excellent for screen-planting. More graceful,effective, and permanent than
Norway spruce or Scotch pine.
Pseudotsuga taxifolia.
Rhododendron album elegans (color white, blooming-period medium).
Tsuga canadensis. The most graceful and effective large evergreen for screen-planting. Takes up
less room than . white pine and is much slower-growing. Can be restrained easily and therefore is adapted to small-scale planting.
Ralph W. Curtis.
Winter protection of planting.
Winter protection is the preparing of plants to withstand the winter (Figs. 3032-3047). All plants are usually hardy in their own habitat, but many become tender when removed to a colder climate, requiring artificial protection. A permanent covering of snow furnishes ideal
protection, but unfortunately the American winters are very changeable. Continued steady cold is seldom injurious, but the alternate freezing and thawing toward spring are often fatal, the damage varying according as the situation is wet or dry and the soil light or heavy. For example, shallow- rooted plants, as Lobelia cardinalis, will often be thrown out of the ground in clayey soil. Such damage may be prevented by placing sods over the plants. Gail- lardias will winter safely in light well-drained soils with ordinary protection, but perish if wet and
heavy. The remarks in this article are meant to apply in the vicinity of Chicago.
Winter-covering intercepts the sun's rays and retards premature activity. It is as essential "to keep in the cold" during temporary warm spells as it is to retard excessive depth of frost. More damage is generally done in February and March than earlier. Roses and other shrubs may be prepared for the winter any time from the last half of November until well into December, but any plants of an herbaceous nature may be covered much earlier. Where field-mice are troublesome it is well to defer covering until after a good freeze, so that these nibblers may seek other winter quarters. Rabbits are fond of the Japan quince, Spiraea Van- houttei, Evonymus alata, and some others, and often damage newly planted material the first winter. When the branches are beyond their reach, protect the trunk with straw, tar paper, or burlaps, which will also prevent sun-blistering. If the shrubs are in groups or low- branched, run wire netting around them. Fall-planted material should be better protected against frost than established plants of the same species. All the Japanese flowering forms of the plum, peach,
and cherry tribes should have their roots mulched 4 or more inches deep. The fatal damage in the winter of 1898-1899 was at the roots, not overhead. Figs. 3032, 3033 show protection by means of straw and boughs; Figs. 3034-3036, protection inside of boxes, barrels, and wire netting.
Plants with evergreen foliage, like Heuchera sanguinea, are safer with a covering that will not mat down and rot the foliage or injure the crown. The danger is in open, wet seasons. Forest leaves are excellent for winter covering, provided they do not mat down. Oak leaves are good,
but those of elm, maple, and other trees that shed their foliage early are soft and mat too much. Leaves may be held in place by evergreen boughs, brush, or tops of bushy perennials like the native asters, or coarse strawy material. When leaves are used in barrels or boxes, the top of the package should be water-tight, and the leaves dry when put in. This precaution is not essential in all cases, but it is a safe rule to follow. Tar paper is comparatively cheap and comes handy in many phases of winter-covering. Gather the leaves when they are dry, and store under shelter until wanted. Save vines like those of Clematis paniculata and pole limas; they are good for covering climbing roses that are almost hardy. These keep off the bright sun when the plants are in a semi-frozen condition, shield them from the drying winds, and retard premature starting of the flower-buds. Forsythia suspensa trained as a climber on a south wall is benefited by such covering, or by burlaps, as its sheltered position induces activity too early and its flowering buds become a victim to late frosts. Any rhizomatous iris, such as the German iris, should be planted where surface drainage is ample, and in the case of young plants, or those recently divided, not covered with heavy manure or they are likely to decay in wet weather. Cover such plants with light material. Old established plants seldom need protection. Chrysanthemum coccineum requires similar conditions and treatment. All lilies except the hardiest, such as L. tigrinum, L. elegans, L. canadense, L. superbum, L.philadelphicum, L. spe- ciosum, L. tenuifolium, and so on, are best covered by a mound of ashes—wood or coal—which retains an even temperature. The other lilies may be mulched with manure and L. candidum with leaves. Eremurus in all its species, and Alstraemeria aurantiaca, require a deep box of leaves and the surrounding soil well mulched. An inverted V-shaped trough placed over such low edging plants as Veronica circae- oides and Thymus Serpyllum var. montanus, is beneficial. It is well to take up a few plants of Monarda did- yma, the double perennial sunflower, and Thymus Serpyllum, and winter them in a frame, over which place a wooden shutter to shed rain,placing leaves or manure on those that remain.
Where permanent windbreaks, such as plantations of evergreens, buildings or solid fences, do not exist, temporary ones should be made of boards, evergreen boughs, corn-stalks, and the like, to protect arboreal plants that are not quite hardy, e. g., in this climate Halesia Carolina, and in the eastern states Magnolia grandiflora, hollies, and the like. Place the windbreak at the sides toward the prevailing winds, generally north and west, and at the sunny side of any evergreen that browns. The boughs or stalks may be attached to wire netting or to cords fastened to stakes.
The so-called retinisporas may have placed over them an empty box open at the top. Shrubs that are still more tender should be boxed, the box having a tight top and ventilation at the sides. In all cases mulch well at the roots. Magnolia Soulangeana, M. speciosa, and plants of similar
degrees of hardiness may have their branches tied in and empty casks placed over them, one sitting partially inside the other, and held in place by stakes. Put a cone-shaped covering over the top to shed the snow. Or poles may be set close to the tree, wigwam fashion. Wrap these with burlaps, or wind string around them for the straw to lean against, and in both instances wrap with straw. The so-called hardy climbing roses, such as the Seven Sisters and Prairie Queen, which are hardy without protection, but are benefited by it, Wichuraiana and its hybrids, Paul Carmine Pillar, Russell Cottage, Crimson Rambler, Thalia, and Lord Penzance Sweetbrier hybrids, if against a wall, may have clematis or other vines placed thickly over them; or if in an open exposed situation, they may be wrapped in straw. (Fig. 3033.) Better
still, hill up the soil rather high at the roots, —to prevent breaking and to afford protection and drainage,— and then take the trouble to extend the mound in the form of a gradually diminishing ridge. Bend the canes along the ridge, choosing a time when there is no frost in them; then cover the canes with tar paper, over which place soil, strawy manure, or any warm covering. If the presence of a lawn prevents this method, lay on the grass and cover with a water-tight box filled with leaves. Canes will rot directly under an open knothole.In the
spring allow them to remain prostrate some time after uncovering to inure them gradually to the change and to induce the lower buds to strengthen. Hybrid Perpetuáls, the tender forms of Moss roses, Hermosa, Clothilde Sou- pert, and the Dwarf Polyan-thas, may be wrapped, boxed,or bent over and covered with soil. Those in beds may be bent over, the tops tied to the base of their neighbors, lead tags bearing numbers fastened to each plant, and a record taken of their names, and all summer labels stored to prevent loss when removing the leaves in the spring. Make a solid frame around them, higher at one end. and fill with leaves so as to cover the plants. Lap the roof-boards; they will shed water and allow ventilation. In the spring remove the leaves, replace the top for a few days, but let the sides remain for a week or so to shield from cold winds. Keep the plants prostrate until cut back.The tender Hybrid Teas require special attention. Cultivation and watering should be discontinued in September in order to retard a late growth, but if the fall is a dry one, they should receive a thorough soaking late in October. Early in November hill up the soil around the plants to a Height of 6 to 8 inches. After there is a crust of frozen soil a few inches thick, fill up with dry leaves to a little over the height of the hills or higher. Then board up the bed some 21/2 feet high at one side
and 2 feet at the other, and cover top with boards or tar paper, the object being to keep the leaves dry. Hybrid Perpétuais, or in fact any semi-hardy rose of low growth, may be protected as above. In most winters the Hybrid Teas can be safely carried over by hilling up the soil as described and covering with hardwood leaves 18 to 24 inches deep, held down by evergreen boughs, brush, or corn-stalks.
Field-mice or the smaller moles are troublesome sometimes where any open or loose material like leaves or straw is used for winter protection. Plants in cold- frames are often destroyed. This may be prevented by the following method: Procure some poisoned wheat and place in the interior
of a 4- or 5-inch common drain-tile. Place these tiles in the frames or among the roses, using ten grains of wheat to a tile. When spring comes lift up the tile carefully, so as not to spill the wheat and count the grains; by the use of the tiles one keeps track of the wheat and does
not endanger the birds.
Tree peonies and yuccas should have an empty box placed over them, large enough to prevent the plant from touching the wood. Hibiscus syriacus, diervillas, deutzias—except D. Lemoinei and D. parviflora which are hardy—ltea virginica, Cornus mas, and the like, are wrapped in straw, and when the wrappings exceed 4 feet in height they should be staked to prevent high winds from toppling them over. Rhododendrons when planted out are taken up, the roots given a good soaking in a tub, and replanted in cold pits, or in boxes placed in a coldhouse or pits. In the spring,
another bath is given them and the soil firmly pounded around them before replanting. This is essential for continued vigor. Cut all vines of the clematis to within 1 or 2 feet of the ground and lay them down, first mounding the soil a few inches if surface drainage is not good
and cover with ashes, boxed leaves, or soil, or mulch well and wrap the canes with straw. If close to a porch or steps, do not let the swept snow stay over them, unless well protected, as this snow solidifies and excludes air. If. as some now think, the broken outer skin of the
hybrid forms subjects them to disease, then these varieties should not be bent over, but staked and wrapped. It is best not to cut the foliage of the eulalias or the Japan iris, as it, of itself, is a good protection, but manure at the base is essential. Cut down Arundo Donax, cover heavily with any material, and cover all with tar paper or water-tight shutters. Place half-rotted leaf-mold over fern-beds, narcissi, English and Spanish iris or any early-blooming bulbous plant, or a light strawy covering that is easily removed. Fine old manure a few inches thick is good and can remain. Place a good coating of stable manure around the trees on the lawn, and when they have been established any length of time bear in mind that the feeding-roots extend out as far as the branches do. The soil under them has a double duty to perform—to sustain both the tree and the grass. Place short stakes around groups of
platycodons, Asclepiae tuberosa, or any other plants that are late to appear in the spring. Otherwise they may be overlooked in the spring and injured by digging. Examine all labels and see that none is cutting into the limbs of trees. Replace all rotten or defaced ones in the borders, using heavy labels, as thin ones often break off and are carried away when the surplus manure is removed. Cypress is a good material for labels. A. good label for young trees and shrubs is made of a thin sheet of copper. The name is written with, a stylus and a thin white paint rubbed on so as to fill in the depression. The label is fastened to a copper wire ring 3 or 4 inches in diameter, placed around the trunk and allowed to lie on the ground. Such a label is durable, unobtrusive and requires no attention for fear of cutting the wood, nor can it be lost.
W. C. Egan.
Structures for the winter protection of plants.
Pits, cold pits, storage-pits and plant-cellars (Figs. 3038-3047) are structures, with the greater part sunk beneath the surface of the ground, built for the purpose of protecting plants in winter without continued fire- heat. They are employed almost exclusively for storing
dormant plants. They are not suitable for storing growing plants any length of time, neither are they houses in which to grow plants. They should face the south and be sheltered against north winds by buildings or other windbreaks. Owing to their position they should be put in
well-drained ground only and well protected against surface water. A well-designed frame- yard is the best possible place for small pits.
The coldframe used by market-gardeners for wintering cabbage and lettuce for spring plantings, or by the florists for pansies, primroses, forget-me-nots, and the like, is really a simple pit. Such shallow pits, with proper protection, are useful for many other small plants which
would be injured by severe weather. A deep pit, like a coldframe, is shown in Fig. 3037. A pit built on the plan of the old-fashioned "outside cellar" (Fig. 3038) is useful for storing tubers and roots. See that it is well ventilated. A section of another pit is shown in Fig.
3039. More elaborate pits, for accommodating large plants, are illustrated in Figs. 3040-3047.
Double glazed hotbed sashes are now used and can be employed for the pits shown in Figs. 3043-3046, or wherever winter protection is required, as it takes too much time to cover the ordinary sash with mats and shutters. These sashes cost a little more and they are heavier; it
may be well to employ, therefore, a method for ventilation which obviates the necessity of lifting. They lessen the labor and let in sunlight all day. A thin layer of air is shut in by glass; the depth of this layer is the thickness of the sash bar; it keeps in heat and so keeps out frost. It is possible that some dust and perhaps fungous growth may accumulate or form within the layers. The glazing can be done at home, the lower glass being put in without putty and held in grooves on sides and ends and on the sash-bars by thin strips of wood.
For forms of pits, consult Figs. 3043-3046. Figs. 3043-3045 show inexpensive and convenient pits for small and medium-sized plants. They may be built 4 feet or less below the level of the ground, the height and width as shown in the diagrams; the length should be some multiple of 3,any thing between 9 and 30 feet, so that the glass roof may be made of hotbed sash and also protected by the straw mats and wooden shutters in common use. See Hotbeds. These pits are useful for storage in winter and also for carrying some of the hardier greenhouse plants in autumn until the houses are relieved of the chrysanthemum crop. Figs. 3043, 3044 make light hotbeds in spring, if filled with the leaves which formed their winter protection, and are also available for growing such plants as euphorbia during the summer. They are generally too deep
for dung hotbeds. These pits are planned to run east and west. If Fig. 3045 is thus placed, the roof on the north side may be made of plank instead of glass, but if it runs north and south it should have a glass roof on both sides. Easy access to all is obtained through the roof by
removing a sash. Sometimes a door can be built at one end. Fig. 3043 does not cost much more than Fig. 3044, and furnishes more room. By putting a few doors in the board roof, excellent ventilation and access is provided. Fig. 3045 gives the best head-room, but is rather dark for
evergreens with soft foliage, e.g., Cytisus canariensis, unless the whole roof is glass. A pit like this has always been used in the Arnold Arboretum for wintering seedlings, rooted cuttings and grafts,—young stock grown in flats but too delicate for the open ground. The arrangement of shelves shown in the diagram gives storage to large numbers of these small plants. In Fig. 3046 is shown a small plant-cellar, more expensive but with better capacity for large plants. It
should run north and south, and, excepting the glass roof, is wholly below ground, and consequently extremely well protected against frost. The door is at either end or side. By taking advantage of sloping ground it ia possible to enter on the ground-floor level, which is important when large plants in tubs must be handled. In such cases a concrete floor may be built. The monitor roof provides plenty of light and ventilation; wooden shutters cover the glass in cold weather. This form of pit is not only well adapted to plants, but also is excellent for storing fruits and also brussels sprouts, celery, and cauliflower until
Christmas. The forms of buildings larger than those above described vary much with different circumstances. Sometimes the cellar of a stable, tool-house, or other outbuilding can be utilized. The chief consideration is protection against frost, but provision must be made for thorough ventilation, and against a too high temperature in the autumn and early spring. It is because it is hardly possible to provide for these matters that dwelling-house cellars do not make good pits; they cannot be sufficiently ventilated to keep the temperature low enough except in the middle of winter. Growth is incited and cannot be maintained owing to lack of light.
Owing to their position, pits cannot well be made of wood, plank and cedar posts lasting from 4 to 6 years only. For large pits, stone and brick are most economical for walls and ceilings; for small ones concrete probably makes the cheapest and best wall; hollow tile might be used.
At the Bussey Institution the concrete walls of several small pits have stood 15 to 20 years without showing any sign of deterioration.
An excavation of the required dimensions is made, with due allowance for the walls. Inside the excavation a plank molding-frame is built at the proper distance; viz., the thickness of the walls, from the walls of earth which should have been cut as true as possible. This frame,
which should also be true and plumb, is carried to the required height for the inside face of wall and another frame is made at the proper distance on the surface of the ground, the inner face of which will be the outside face of the completed wall. These frames must be well braced; they carry a heavy load until the cement hardens. It is not necessary to make a complete frame for the whole pit at once; one end and a half of both sides can be built first, and the same frame reversed will serve for the remainder. Use a good quality Portland cement mixed one part of cement to two of sand with four or five parts broken stone or gravel which should not be larger than an egg; for floors the broken stone or gravel may be increased to seven or eight parts. The whole should be completely and quite carefully blended with hoe or shovel until each stone is coated. Throw this mass into the space between the
molding-frame and earth wall and settle compactly with a rammer. It is not advisable to mix more than a barrel at once, nor so much as this unless at least six men are employed.
Continuous batches are made until the work is finished. When the top layers are going in, insert 3/4-inch iron bolts 6 to 8 inches long at intervals of 6 feet. These secure the wooden
sills. In warm dry weather the frames can be removed within twenty- four hours or less, but first examine carefully the condition of the concrete. After removal, smooth off any roughness and grout in with a whitewash brush a coat of portland cement mixed with water, but without
sand, thus obtaining a good color and a more homogeneous surface. For several days the work should be shaded and occasionally sprinkled with the hose. Do not attach the woodwork until the concrete is fully hardened. One and one-half barrels of cement make about 1 cubic yard of
concrete, that costs, in place, between five and six dollars, somewhat less if the cost of labor, sand, and gravel is moderate. Build in June or July, so that the concrete will be thoroughly dry before frost.
The construction of a brick roof is shown in Fig. 3046. Concrete could also be used. A good grade hotbed sash make the best glass roof. All sills, cross-bars, and the like, should be made of cypress and painted. The woodwork must be made strong to endure the continual exposures. It
is false economy to stint in quantity or quality. In cellars for nursery stock, a comparatively small amount of light is required, and the low roof is boarded in and shingled, building-paper being used. Planks may be substituted for boards, or the roof may be double.
Sand or gravel, 1 foot deep, makes the best floor, or half sand and half loam where plants are to be heeled-in. A concrete floor should be used only where the drainage is absolutely perfect.
The sides and ends should be banked with leaves or other material. (See Fig. 3039). In the vicinity of Boston this should be done about November 15. The same covering can also be given to low roofs. The glass is protected by mats and shutters, much as in ordinary hotbeds. It is a
good plan to have on hand an extra supply of dry meadow hay to give additional shelter in zero
weather. Pits like those shown in Figs. 3043 and 3045, like greenhouses, should carry more than
one "crop". In early autumn they hold chrysanthemums, carnations, stevias, and the like; next
Rhododendron (Azalea) indica, Cytisus canariensis, heaths, and the like, some of which remain for the winter, while others are replaced by hardy shrubs, bulbs, and other plants for forcing.
For spring and summer use, see above. In eastern Massachusetts gardeners begin to use them in
September, but the final storage sometimes is not finished until Christmas. The longer the
plants can be kept in the open air the better fitted they are for their winter quarters.
In the care of pits, watering and ventilation are of prime importance. When first housed the
plants should be well watered, and, if this is carefully done, it will often be found that no further water is required for plants in tubs and large pots (10 inches or more). This also is true of heeled-in stock. Everything, however, should be so arranged that inspection is easy,
and water should be given when necessary. Plants on the shelves, particularly in small pots
(4-inch), will go dry oftener than those placed on the gravel floor. It is best to water on bright days, when the sashes can be removed. The great difficulty in keeping plants in good condition is owing to the condensation of moisture within the pits at times when it is impossible to open them on account of severe weather; therefore no more water should be given than is absolutely needed. As long as the weather permits, keep the sashes off or the windows
open night and day, and afterward open up whenever possible. On sunny days ventilate whenever the thermometer registers over 20 F., but do not begin until the sun strikes the frames, and shut off early in the afternoon. On mild days, with the mercury above freezing, remove the sashes entirely. This is the best way to get rid of the moisture-laden air, and is essential for keeping evergreen plants with soft foliage in good condition. To change the air in large cellars is more troublesome; here it is advisable to build an open fireplace in which a brisk fire may be kindled on mild days when all win-dows can , be unclosed, thus obtaining a better
circulation than is otherwise possible. Sometimes these large cellars have a line of hot-water pipes or other means of heating, by which not only is better ventilation secured but also additional protection in severe weather.
An unheated greenhouse (Fig. 3042) can sometimes be used advantageously, not only for protection but, if it is warm enough, for growing plants in spring and autumn, and to a certain extent in winter. It is really a pit 5 or 6 feet deep built below ground and attached on the south side to some building already on the place. It might not be satisfactory for the extreme
North but in southern New England and the middle states it is a great help: in European gardens it is sometimes called an alpine house, or, if it is larger and better built, a winter-garden.
Give a southern exposure and have it so arranged that the floor is on the same or nearly the same level as the cellar floor; if this cellar is heated, so much the better. The cellar will be convenient for various operations, also for storing soil and tools; water should be handy. A
door between it and the cellar is a necessity, but there need be none on the outside. The form of roof can be either lean-to or three-quarters span; in the latter form boarding, double if possible, can cover the roof next the house. Use double glazed glass and provide plenty of
ventilation by glass or board shutters: this last is most important. The dimensions should not be less than 10 feet in width and may be more; the length can be any multiple of three so that hotbed sash can be used for the roof. The interior layout should be a walk, not over 2 feet
wide, so placed that convenient and economical access is given the plants. These may be grown on benches, either solid or of boards, or planted in the earth. The great advantage of such a structure is that the plants can be handled from the inside in all weathers. The hardier
plants, like wallflowers and violets, bloom all winter; in autumn it can be used to prolong the chrysanthemum season, in spring it is a good place for starting seedlings, e. g., lettuce, cauliflower, and cabbage, and, if warm enough, an inside hotbed can be made to start tomatoes,
peppers and eggplant also; in it most of the plants named below can be stored or grown. Many plants of doubtful hardiness or of small size can be wintered and tried out. It is much simpler to handle than pits or frames, largely on account of easy access and the storage capabilities
of the cellar. It makes a good place to store plants for forcing and will even flower well tulips, hyacinths, and narcissi. A three-quarters span 12 by 15 feet with 8 feet of glass roof,in southern Massachusetts, well protected in all ways, has recorded on a self-registering thermometer only 24° F. in the last three years, outside temperature going as low as—10°F.Following is a list of plants that may be wintered in pits and frames with satisfactory
results. The list is made for the neighborhood of Boston.
1. Nursery stock of every description.
2. Stocks, cions, and cuttings for winter work.
3. Young nursery stock,—seedlings, cuttings, or grafts too delicate for planting in autumn.
4. Hardy plants for forcing or winter decoration. The temperature of pit or cellar for the above plants should be 35°F. or even lower occasionally. The larger plants should be heeled-in on the floor in sandy loam or in bunk-like shelves along the sides. Instead of loam, sphagnum can be used and is particularly good for cuttings and grafting stock. The very young stock is stored in flats or pans in which it has been grown. For forcing stock, see Farcing, pages 1265-1267.
Those marked with a star (*) are more tender and should not be exposed to frost. They should also be kept in the driest part of the pit.
1. Alstroemeria, canna, dahlia, gladiolus, Milla biflora, montbretia, oxalis for summer bedding, tuberose, tigridia, Zephyranthes Atamasco, Z. candida. Keep the above in dry house-cellars, where no frost penetrates, temperature 35° to 40° F. Dahlias and cannas can be covered with dry sand if prone to wilt. Tigridias should be hung up in bags to avoid mice.
2. Agave, aloe, Lippia citriodora, Datura suaveolens, some of the hardier cacti, e. g., Selenicereus grandiflorus and Opuntia Ficus-indica, Cordyline indivisa, fuchsia, Yucca gloriosa and probably other genera and species of succulent plants. Keep at temperature 35° to 43° F. in a very dry house-cellar, with as much light as possible; too much moisture is destructive.
3. Abelia in variety, *abutilon, *acacia, Acanthus mollis, *Agapanthus umbellatus, Araucaria imbrícala and A. excelsia, Aucuba japonica, bamboos, Buxus sempervirens, 'Callistemon sorts, Calluna vulgaris, 'Camellia (different species, including the tea plant), Ceanothus azureus, Cedrus Libani and C. Deodara, Cephalotaxus drupacea, 'citrus in variety, cistus (different species), cotoneaster (tender sorte), Cryp- tomeria japonica, cupressus (tender sorts),
"Cytisus canariensis and *C. racemosus, * Daphne odora, 'erica (hardier sorts), Eriobotrya japonica, Erythrina Crisla- galli, "Eugenia. Jambos, Evonymus japonica (tender varieties), Ficus Carica, Gelsemium sempervirens, Gordonia alatamaha, grapes (tender kinds), Hedera helix,
"Hibiscus Rosa-sinensis, Hydrangea hortensia, Ilex Aquifolium, kniphofia, laurestinus, Laurus nobilis, lagerstrcemia, Magnolia grandiflora, *Meratia praecox Myrtus communie, "Nerium Oleander, Olea europaea, "Osmanthus fragrans and O. Aquifolium, Passiflora caerulea, pernettya, Phormium tenax, *Pittosporum Tobira and others, Plumbago capensis, Podocarpus macrophylla var. Maki, Prunus Laurocerasus and others, "Psidium Guajava, "Punica Granatum, retinis-The above plants are commonly handled in pits for various reasons. In eastern Massachusetts, with the possible exception of those marked thus (*), they will bear a few degrees of frost, if not too long continued, without harm. The average temperatures of the pit should be just above freezing, say 35° F. The value of these plants depends upon not only carrying them through the winter in good condition, but also in giving them a good start in the spring. For this purpose a cool greenhouse must be provided; a cold grapery or a house constructed from the sashes used on the pits is equally good, in which the plants can be properly grown until it is warm enough to put them out-of-doors.
4. Anemone japonica and A. coronaira, Bellis perennis, Dianthus Caryophyllus (clove pinks and European carnations from seeds), Galax aphylla, myosotis, primula in variety, including auricula, Persian ranunculus, Viola odorata (tender sorts), pansies. wall-flowers, ettuce,
cabbage, cauliflower and parsley. These planta are wintered in coldframes, which should vary in depth with the size of the plant; sometimes the plants are grown and flowered in the frame, at others they are bedded put when the season permits.
5. Arisaema; arum, calochortus (different species), freesia in variety, iris (tender species), ixia, sparaxis. The above plants can be potted and carried in a pit or frame until wanted in the greenhouse.
B. M. Watson.
Shrubs for the Middle West.
The most popular shrubs in the Middle West, as in any new country, are usually of foreign origin. However, the native shrubs are beginning to play a great part in restoring and intensifying the characteristic beauty of this region. The dominant feature of middle western shrubbery is not apparent to all. This is largely due to the fact that the Middle West contains no unique species that compel universal admiration like the mountain laurel and rhododendrons, which are the crowning glory of the East. Every shrub of importance native to the Middle West is also native to the East. While the Middle West may rival the East in the luxuriance of its shrubbery, it is poorer in species, both native and foreign. About two-fifths of the middle western shrubs that are in general cultivation bear their flowers in flat clusters. These have
been called "symbols of the prairie" since they repeat many times on a small scale the great line of the horizon, which is the strongest feature of the middle western scenery, whether wild or cultivated, treeless or forested. Repetition of the horizontal is conspicuous enough
wherever hawthorns and prairie crab-apples (Pyrus ioensis) are abundant, owing to their strong horizontal branching. Few shrubs, however, have stratified branches. Their suggestion of the prairie is subtler and less insistent, because it appears only in the bloom. The boldest repeater of the prairie among the shrubs is the American black elder, with clusters 6 to 8 inches across. The viburnums and dogwoods have smaller clusters, ranging from 5 inches in diameter down to 2 inches. When wood and prairie meet, the prairie note is sounded more strongly by shrubs with horizontal branches, especially witch-hazel, and by juneherry and gray dogwood which, though erect when young, become intensely stratified when old. This is an important part of the prairie style of landscape gardening. The following lists are therefore classified according to this idea.Stratified shrubs. (Those marked * have horizontal branches, at least when old. The others have flat clusters of flowers.) Low shrubs, suitable for foundation planting and edging borders: Ceanothus americanus and C. ovatus; Hydrangea arborescens; Viburnum acerifolium and V. pubescens.Medium-high shrubs, ordinarily 5 to 6 feet: Cornus Amomum, C. racemosa* (or C. paniculata), and C. stolonifera; Sambucus pubens, S. canadensis, and its var. acutüoba; Viburnum cassinoides, V. dentatum, V. molle, and V. americanum. The last-named is considered by botanists to be the same as the European V. Opulus, but the American form is considered to be freer from plant-lice and is superior in other ways.Tall shrubs, suitable for the back of a border, corner of a house, or high foundation: Aralia spinosa*; Cornus alternifolia* and C. rugosa* (or C. circinata); Hamamelis virginiana*; Physocarpus opulifolius; Viburnum Lentago and V. prunifolium.Non-stratified shrubs.Low shrubs: Amelanchier alnifolia and var. pumila; Diervilla triflda; Evonymus obovata; Prunus pumila; Rhus canadensis (or R. aromatica); Ribes americanum; Rosa virginiana (or R. blanda), R. Carolina, R. humilis, and R. setigera; Rubus hispidus; Symphoricarpos occidentalis and S. orbiculatus.Medium-high shrubs: Corylus americana; Evonymus americana; Ilex verticillata; Rhus copallina, R. glabra, and R. typhina; Ribes aureum and R. Cynosbati; Spiraea alba; Symphoricarpos albus.
Tall shrubs: Aronia arbutifolia and A. melanocarpa; Benzoin aestivale; Cephalanthus
occidentalis; Staphylea trifolia; Zanthoxylum americanum.
The most significant plants in the above list, probably, are sumac and prairie rose. The sumac (Rhys glabra) was undoubtedly the most virile note on the wild prairie, where the summer foliage took on a wonderful gloss. It is still the most gorgeous color in the corn-belt, where brilliant reds are not commonly developed in autumn. The prairie rose, also known as the Michigan or Illinois rose (Rosa setigera), is now much planted beside front doors. The common wild rose of the open prairie is Rosa humilis, which, however, is familiar in the East, while Rosa setigera is decidedly more western in its range. The middle western point of view may be indicated by brief notes on a few other species.
Ceanothus ovatus is thought to be more refined in cultivation than New Jersey tea and has more, "western color;" should combine well with Lilium canadense or L. superbum. Cornus racemosa has been called "sunset dogwood" because in autumn its countless red pedicels make a glow like the characteristic prairie sunset; this and
sumac are prominent in "sunset gardens." Cornus rugosa is a magnificent species, but must have shade. Although hazel (Corylus) may be considered "coarse" in the East, its rugged character pleases the Middle West and its autumn color is unique. Hamamelis virginiana is very popular
because its yellow foliage lights up the autumn woods and because its stratified branches carry the prairie spirit into the woodland. Sambucus pubera, the red elder, will not thrive on clay or in full sun; it wants shade and prefers sandy soil. Symphori-carpos orbiculatus is commonly called "buckbush," and is a familiar sight in pastures. Viburnum
acerifolium is useful for the shady side of the house. Viburnum pubescens is the most floriferous of the viburnums and formerly common near Chicago. Zanthoxylum ameri- canum is almost as common in woodlots as buckbush; the scent of the foliage generally pleases.
Wilhelm Miller.
Shrubs for street and park planting.
Eastern United States, northern section.
Berberis Thunbergii.
Ceanothus americana.
Cercis canadensis.
Cercis japonica.
Chaenomeles japonica (subject to San Jose acale).
Clethra alnifolia.
Cornus in variety (these are subject to scale insecta).
Forsythia Fortunei.
Forsythia viridissima.
Hydrangea arborescens.
Hydrangea paniculata.
Kerria japonica.
Ligustrum Ibota.
Ligustrum Ibota var. Regelianum.
Lonicera Morrowii.
Lonicera tatarica.
Philadelphus in variety.
Physocarpus opulifolius.
Rhodotypos kerrioides.
Ribes in variety.
Rosa rugosa and other species.
Spiraea Billardii.
Spiraea Bumalda, including var. Anthony Waterer.
Spiraea japonica.
Spiraea japonica var. alba.
Spiraea carpinifolia.
Spiraea Van Houttei.
Symphoricarpos albus.
Symphoricarpos orbiculatus.
Syringa in variety.
Tamarix in variety (may be killed to the ground in the extreme
North but will come again from the root).
Viburnum dentatum.
Viburnum Opulus.
Eastern United States, central section. (From Philadelphia and St. Louis southward, in addition to the shrubs for the northern section.)
Abelia grandiflora. Jasminum in variety.
Buddleia variabilis varieties Ligustrum in variety.
Callicarpa purpurea. Mahonia Aquifolium.
Caryopteris incana. Spiraea in variety.
Deutzia in variety. Staphylea pinnata.
Evonymus in variety. Staphylea trifolia.
Forsythia suspensa. Stephanandra incisa.
Hypericum Moserianum. Styrax japonica.
Hex in variety.
Eastern United Slates, southern section. (For use in addidition to the two foregoing lists for
points south of Wilmington, North Carolina, and Charleston, South Carolina, and westward in the
southern half of the states on the Gulf of Mexico.)
Aucuba japonica. Pittosporum Tobira.
Gardenia in variety. Prunus caroliniana.
Nerium Oleander. Prunus Laurocerasus.
Osmanthus Aquifolium. Viburnum Tinus.
Shrubs for the seashore.
Berberis Thunbergii. Rosa nitida.
Hibiscus syriacus. Rosa rugosa.
Hydrangea, both woody and Rosa Wichuraiana.
semi-herbaceous. Spiraea in variety.
Hex opaca. Symphoricarpos albus.
Juniperus virginiana. Symphoricarpos orbiculatus.
Ligustrum in variety. Tamarix in variety.
Myrica cerífera.
The ilex, the hibiscus, and some of the ligustrums will not be hardy on the extreme northern Atlantic seacoast but will be hardy much farther north on the shore than in the regions adjoining.
Shrubs for regions of little rainfall.
Berberis Thunbergii.
Elaeagnus, especially E. angustifolia.
Lonicera, especially L. Morrowii and L. tatarica.
Philadelphus Lewisii.
Prunus serotina.
Ribes, especially R. aureum.
Rosa arkansana of cult.
Rosa caroliniana var. lucida.
Rosa nitida.
Rosa rugosa.
Rosa setigera.
Spiraea in variety.
Symphoricarpos in variety.
Syringa, especially S. chinensis.
Tamarix in variety.
In the northern sections the tamarix will kill to the ground every winter but will come from
the root. The tender spireas should not be used north of Denver, Colorado.
Shrubs for the Pacific slope. (In. addition to the plants suggested for the eastern United States. The lists for both the northern and central sections of the eastern states may be used on the North Pacific slope and all the eastern lists for the southern sections.)
Arbutus Unedo.
Ceanothus thyrsiflorus and other native species.
Cotoneaster in variety.
Crataegus in variety, especially C. Pyracantha (Pyracantha coccinea).
Elaeagnus in variety.
Evonymus in variety.
Sambucus racemosa.
Spartium junceum.
Spiraea ariaefolia and others.
Veronica in variety.
Shrubs for the Southern section. (In addition to all these listed for the eastern United States
and the above.)
Escallonia in variety. Prunus ilicifolia
Photinia arbutifolia. Prunus integrifolia.
Pittosporum in variety.
F L Mulford.
Shrubs for midcontinental region.
The following list of shrubs for the most part consists of kinds known to be perfectly hardy and to succeed in the region of St. Louis if planted with usual care and subsequently given reasonably good treatment. Many choice sorts which are not likely to be hardy much north of central Missouri without some protection are indicated by an asterisk (*). A few may not be generally known to the trade and hence procured with some difficulty at present but their value for this region was demonstrated by being grown several years at the Missouri Botanical Gerden.
Azalea and certain other Ericaceae, together with some allied genera like Kalmia that have formed attractive features in many plantations, are not included because they are generally shortlived and require more than ordinary care in planting and subsequent handling.
*Acanthopanax pentaphyllus. *Itea virginica.
Aesculus parviflora. *Kerria japonica.
Alnus Mitchelliana. *Kerria japonica argenteo-var-
Alnus serrulata. iegata.
Amelanchier canadensis. *Laburnum anagyroides.
*Amorpha canescens. *Lespedeza bicolor.
Amorpha fruticosa. *Lespedeza Sieboldii.
Aronia arbutifolia. Ligustrum amurense.
*Baccharis halimifolia. Ligustrum Ibota var. Regel-
*Benzoin aestivale. ianum.
Berberis Thunbergii. *Ligustrum ovalifolium.
Berberis vulgaris. *Lonicera fragrantissima.
Berberis vulgaris var. atro Lonicera involucrata.
purpurea. Lonicera Ledebourii.
Betula nana. Lonicera Morrowii.
Betuta pumila. Lonicera Ruprechtiana.
*Buddleia Davidii. Lonicera Standishii.
*Buddleia Lindleyana. Lonicera tatarica.
Calycanthus fertilis. Lonicera tatarica var. grandi
Calycanthus floridus. flora.
*Calycanthus occidentalis. Lonicera tatarica var. latifolia.
Caragana arborescens. Lonicera tatarica var. pu-
*Caryopteris incana. nicea.
*Ceanothus americanus. Lycium chinense,
Cephalanthus occidentalis. Lycium halimifolium.
Cercis canadensis. *Magnolia Soulangeana.
Chaenomeles japonica. *Magnolia Soulangeana var.
Clethra alnifolia. Lennei.
*Colutea arborescens. * Magnolia Soulangeana var.
*Comptonia asplenifolia. speciosa.
Cornus alba. *Magnolia stellata.
Cornus alba var. sibirica. Mahonia Aquifolium.
Cornus alternifolia. Philadelphus coronarius.
Cornus Amomum. Philadelphus coronariua var.
Cornue mas. flore-pleno.
Cornus racemosa. Philadelphus inodorus.
Cornus rugosa. Philadelphus laxus.
Cornus sanguinea. Philadelphus Lemoinei.
Cornus stolonifera. Philadelphus Lemoinei var.
Cornus stolonifera var. fla- erectus.
viramea. Philadelphus pubescens.
*Coronilla Emerus. Physocarpus opulifolius.
Corylus americana. Physocarpus opulifolius var.
Corylus Avellana var. atro lutea.
purpurea. Potentilla fruticosa.
Corylus Avellana var. lacini Prunus Amygdalus, and white
ata. variety.
Cotinus Coggygria. Ptelea trifoliata.
*Cotoneaster acuminata. *Rhamnus alnifolia.
*Cotoneaster racemiflora. Rhamnus caroliniana.
Crataegus Crus-galli. Rhamnus cathartica.
Crataegus Oxyacantha. Rhamnus Frangula.
*Daphne Mezereum. *Rhodotypos kerrioides.
Deutzia gracilis. Rhus canadensis.
Deutzia Lemoinei. Rhus copallina.
Deutzia scabra. Rhus glabra.
Deutzia scabra, "Pride of Rhus glabra var. laciniata,
Rochester." Rhus typhina.
Deutzia scabra var. Watereri. Rhus typhina var. laciniata.
Diervilla floribunda. Ribes aureum.
Diervilla floribunda var. grand Ribes Gordonianum.
iflora. Ribes sanguineum.
Diervila hybrids, "Eva Robinia hispida.
Rathke." Rubus odoratus.
Diervilla hybrids Kosteriana Salix discolor.
variegata. Salix humilis.
Diervilla Lonicera. Salix pentandra.
Dirca palustris. Salix petiolaris.
Elaeagnus angustifolia. Salix purpurea.
Elaeagnus argentea. Salix rostrata.
Elaeagnus multiflora. Salix sericea.
Elaeagnus umbellata, Salix tristis
*Evonymus alata. Sambucus canadensis.
Evonymus americana. Sambucus nigra.
Evonymus atropurpurea. Sambucus nigra var. aurea.
Evonymus Bungeana. Sambucus nigra var. laciniata.
Evonymus europaea. Sambucus racemosa.
Evonymus obovata. Shepherdia argentea.
*Evonymus radicans. Sorbus melanocarpa.
*Evonymus radicans var. ve Spiraea arguta.
geta. Spriaea Billardii.
*Exochorda racemosa. Spiraea Bumalda.
Forsythia intermedia. Spiraea Bumalda, "Anthony
Forsythia suspensa. Waterer."
Forsythia viridissima. Spiraea Menziesii.
Halimodendron halodendron. Spiraea prunifolia.
Hamamelis virginiana. Spiraea prunifolia var. flore-
Hibiscus syriacus, in variety. pleno.
Hibiscus syriacus var. Mee- Spiraea salicifolia.
hanii. Spiraea Thunbergii.
*Hippophae rhamnoides. Spiraea Van Houttei.
Hydrangea arborescens var. Staphylea colchica.
grandiflora. Staphylea trifolia
Hydrangea paniculate, *Stephandra incisa.
Hydrangea paniculata var. Syringa persica.
grandiflora. Syringa villosa.
*Hydrangea quercifolia. Syringa vulgaris, in variety.
*Hypericum Moserianum. Symphoricarpos albus.
*Ilex decidus. Symphoricarpos orbiculatus.
*Ilex serrata. Tamarix africana.
*Ilex verticillata. Tamarix gallica.
Tamarix gallica indica. Viburnum molle.
Tamarix hispida aestivalis. Viburnum Opulus.
Tamarix tetandra purpurea. Viburnum Opulua var.sterile
Viburnum acerifolium. Viburnum tomentosum.
Viburnum cassinoides. Viburnum prunifolium.
Viburnum dentatum. *Vitex Agnua-castus.
Viburnum Lantana. Xanthoceras sorbifolia.
Viburnum Lentago. *Xanthorrhiza apiifolia.
A few species commonly classed as woody are more herbaceous than most shrubs and hence more tender: top should be cut to the ground each spring and treated more as hardy perennials. Among these are the following :
Buddleia Davidii. Lespodeza bicolor.
Buddleia Lindleyana. Stephanandra incisa.
Caryopteris incana. Vitex Agnus-castus.
Coronilla Emerus.
Trailing and climbing vines.
*Actinidia arguta. Lonicera Caprifolíum.
*.Akebia quinata. 'Lonicera japonica.
*Ampelopsis heterophylla var. Lonicera japonica var. aureo-
amurensis. reticulata.
Aristolochia macrophylla. *Lonicera japonica var. Hal-
*Aristolochia tomentosa. liana.
*Bignonia capreolata. Lonicera Periclymenum var.
Campsis radicans belgica.
Celastrus orbiculatus. Lonicera sempervirens.
Celastrus scandens. Parthenocissus quinquefolia.
Clematis Flammula. Parthenocissus quinquefolia
Clematis lanuginosa var. var. Engelmannii.
Clematis Jackmanii. [Henryi. Parthenocissus tricuspidata.
Clematis paniculata. *Periploca graeca.
Clematis virginiana. Vitls, native species.
*Evonymus radicans. Wisteria chinensis.
*Evonymus radicans var. vegeta. Wisteria magnifica.
Forsythia suspensa. Wisteria speciosa.
Shrubs suitable for hedges.
Berberis Thunbergi . *Lonicera fragrantissima.
Berberis vulgaris Philadelphus, all species listed.
Berberis vulgaris var. atro Ribes Gordonianum.
purpurea. Ribes sanguineum.
Deutzia all species listed. Rhodotypos kerriodes
Elaeagnus multiflora. Shepherdia argentna.
Forsythia intermedia. Spiraea Billardii.
Hibiscus syriacus in variety. Spiraea Van Houttei.
*Hippophae rhamnoides. Tamarix, all species Usted.
Ligustrum, all listed species.
Shrubs for shady places.
Berberis Thunbergii. Hydrangea arborescens.
Berberis vulgaris. Hypericum Moserianum.
Berberia vulgaris var. atro- Ligustrum, all species.
purpurea. Lonicera Periclymenum.
Ceanothus americanus. Rhus canadensis.
Clethra alnifolia. Ribes sanguinea.
Cornus, all species. Rubus odoratus.
Deutzia gracilis. Viburnum acerifolium.
Deutzia Lemoinei. Viburnum dentatum.
Forsythia, al'species. Viburnum tomentosum.
Shrubs with twigs of striking color.
Cornus alba var. cerifera. Elaeagnus argentea.
Cornus sanguinea. Elaeagnus multiflora.
Cornus stolonifera. *Kerria japonica.
Cornus stolonifera var. flavi-
ramea.
Kinds with more or less conspicuous berries.
Berberis Thunbergii. *Evonymus alata.
Berberis vulgaris. Evonymus americana.
Evonymus Bungeana, Rhamnus cathartira
Evonymus radicans var. Rhamnus Frangula.
vegeta. Rhus glabra.
Ilex verticillata. Rhus typhina.
Ligustrum amurense. Sambucus, all species listed.
Ligustrum Ibota var. Regeli- Sorbus arbutifoha.
anum. Sorbus melanocarpa.
*Ligustrum ovalifolium. Staphylea trifolia.
Lonicera Ledebourii. Symphoricarpoa albus.
Lonicera Morrowi. Symphoricarpos orbiculatus
Lonicera Ruprechtianum. Viburnum.
H. C. Irish.
Shrubs and climbers for the South.
Owing to the great diversity of soil, elevation, and climatic conditions found in the Mountain, Piedmont, and Coastal zones of the South, it is impossible to make or to give an absolutely accurate list of deciduous and broad-leaved shrubs and climbers adapted to the three above-mentioned zones. The planter must, therefore, make due allowances for local conditions.
1. Piedmont Zone extends from the Mountain Zone to the Fall Lane, which follows approximately the following cities: Weldon and Raleigh. North Carolina, Camden, and Columbia, South Carolina; Augusta, Milledgeville, Macon, and Columbus, Georgia; Montgomery, Alabama; Columbus and Holly
Springs, Mississippi.
Deciduous shrubs for the Piedmont Zone.
Acanthopanax pentaphyllus. Colutea arborescens.
Acer japonicum Comptonia asplenifolia.
Aesculus octandra. Cornus alba.
Amelanchier atropurpurea. Cornus alba var. Spaethii.
Amelanchier canadeneis. Cornus Amomum.
Amelanchier rotundifolia. Cornus Mas.
Amorpha canescens. Cornus racemosa.
Amorpha fruticosa. Cornus rugosa.
Amorpha glabra. Cornus sanguínea.
Amorpha tenneesoensis. Cornue stolonifera,
Aralia chinensis var. mandshur Cornus stolonifera var. flavi-
ica. ramea.
Aronia arbutifolia. Coronilla Emerus.
Aronia melanocarpa. Corylopeis pauciflora.
Azalea arborescens. Corylus americana.
Azalea gandavensis. Corylue Avellana.
Azalea lutea. CoryluB Avellana var. laciniata.
Azalea mollis. Corylue máxima var. purpurea.
Azalea nudiflora. Corylue rostrata.
Azalea pontica. Cotoneaster acutifolia.
Azalea Vaseyi. Cotoneaster raultiflora.
Azalea viscosa. Cotoneaster racemiflora.
Baccharis halímifolia. Crataegus coccínea.
Benzoin aestivale. Crataegus Phaenopyrum,
Berberis aristata. Cratregüe Oxyacantha.
Berberis asiatica, Cratipgue uniflora.
Berberís canadensis. Cytisus praecox,
Berbcrie heteropoda. Cytisus acoparius.
Berberis Sieboldii. Daphne Genkwa.
Berberis sinensis. Daphne Mesereum.
Berberis Thunbergii. Deutzia gracilis.
Berberís vulgaris. Deutzia Lemoinei.
Berberís vulgaris var. atro Deutzia rosea
purpurea. Deutzia scabra.
Buckleya distichophylla. Deutzia scabra var. candidis-
Buddleia Davidii. sims.
Buddleia Davidii var. mag Deutzia scabra var. flore-pleno
nifica. roses.
Buddleia intermedia. Deutzia scabra var. Pride of
Buddleia japonica. Rochester.
Buddleia Lindteyana. Deutzia Sieboldiana.
Buddleia officinalis. Diervilla florida.
Caesalpinia Gilliesii. Diervilla hybrids.
Callicarpa americans.
Callicarpa purpures.
Calycanthus fertilis.
Calycanthus florida.
Calycanthus occiden-
talis.
Caragana arborescens.
Caragana Chamlagu.
Caryopteris incans.
Cassia macrantha.
Ceanothus americanus.
Ceanothus hybridus.
Cephalanthus occiden-
talis.
Cercis chinensis.
Cercis Siliquaetrum.
Chaenomeles japonica.
Chilopsis saligna.
Clerodendron trichoto-
mum.
Clethra alnifolia.
Diervilla'rivularis. Philadelphus gloriosus.
Diervilla sessilifolia. Philadelphus grandiflorus (cor-
Direa palustris. onariue var. ?)
Elaeagnus angustifolia. Philadelphus hirsutus.
Elaeagnus argentea Philadelphus inodorus.
Elaeagnus multiflora. Philadelphus laxus.
Elaeagnus parvifolia. Philadelphus Lemoinei.
EUcagnus umbellata. Philadelphus Lewísii.
Evonymus alata. Philadelphus pubescens.
Evonymus americana. Photinia villosa.
Evonymus Bungeana. Physocarpus opulifolius.
Evonymus europaea.
Evonymus nana.
Evonymus patens.
Exochorda Korolkowii.
Exochorda racemosa.
Fontanesia Fortunei.
Fontanesia phillyraeoides.
Forestiera acununata,
Forestiera ligustrina.
Forsythia intermedia.
Forsythia suspense.
Forsythia suspensa var. For-
tunei.
Forsythia viridissima.
Fothergilla Gardenii.
Fothergilla major.
Fothergilla parviflora.
Genista germanica.
Genista tinctoria.
Halimodendron halodendro.
Hamamelis virginiana,
Hibiscus syriacus.
Hippophae rhamnoides.
Hydrangea arborcscens.
Hydrangea arborcscens var.
sterilis.
Hydrangea Hortensia.
Hydrangea paniculata.
Hydrangea paniculata var.
grandiflora. Phyeocarpue opulifolius var.
Hydrangea paniculata var. prae aureus.
cox. Pieris mariana.
Hydrangea querqi folia. Poncirus trifoliata.
Hydrangea radiata. Potentilla fruticosa.
Hypericum aureum. Prunus japonica.
Hypericum calycinum. Prunus marítima.
Hypericum densiflorum. Prunus pumila.
Hypericum glomeratum. Prunus triloba.
Hypericum lobocarpum. Punica Granatum.
Hypericum Moserianum. Rhamnus cathartica.
Hypericum nudiflorum. Rhamnus Frangula.
Hypericum prolificum. Rhododendron canadenee.
Ilex decidus. Rhodotypos kerrioides.
Ilex verticillata. Rhus canadensis.
Indigofera Gerardiana. Rhus Michauxii.
Itea yirginica. Ribes curvatum.
Jasminum fruticans. Ribes nigrum.
Jasminum humile. Ribes sanguineum.
Jasminum nudiflorum. Robinia hispida.
Jasminum officinale, Rosa blanda.
Kerria japonica. Rosa Carolina.
Kerria japonica var. argentco- Rosa rubiginosa
variegata. Rosa rugosa.
Kerria japónica var. flore-plcno. Rosa setigera.
Lagerstroemia indica. Roses, Bourbon.
Lespedeza bicolor. Roses, Brier and Penzance
Leepedeza Sieboldii. Sweetbriers.
Ligustrum acuminatum. Roses, Hybrid Perpetual.
Ligustrum amurense. Roses, Hybrid Tea,
Ligustrum Ibota. Roses, Japanese.
Liguetrum Ibota var. Regel- Roses, Monthly or China.
ianum. Roses, Moes.
Ligustrum ovalifolium. Roses, Polyantha.
Ligustrum vulgare. Roses, Tea.
Lonicera bella. Rosmarinus officinalis.
Lonicera fragrantissima. Rubus laciniatus.
Lonicera Morrowii. Salvia Greggii.
Salix diecolor. Salvia Greggii var. alba.
Lonicera muscaviensis. Spartium junoeum.
Lonicera pyrenaica. Spiraea alba.
Lonicera Ruprechtiana. Spiraea albiflora.
Lonicera spinosa. Spiraea arguta.
Lonicera Standishii. Spiraea Billardii.
Lonicera tatarica. Spiraea Billardii var. longi*
Lonicera thibetica. pedunculata.
Lonicera Xylosteum. Spiraea blands.
Meratia praecox. Spiraea Bumalda.
Muehlenbeckia complexa. Spiraea cantoniensis.
Myrica carolinensis. Spiraea cantoniensis flore-pleno.
Myrica cerífera. Spiraea Douglasii.
Myriea Gale. Spiraea Fontenaysii.
Myricaria germanica. Spiraea Fortunei var. semper-
Neviusia alabamensis. florens.
Paliurus Spina-Chrieti. Spiraea Froebelii.
Philadelphus, Avalanche. Spiraea japonica.
Philadelphus, Mont Blanc. Spiraea macrophylla.
Philadelphus coronarius. Spiraea nipponica.
Philadelphus coronarius var. Spiraea prunifolia .
flore-pleno.
Philadelphus Falconeri.
Philadelphus floridus. Spiraea prunifolia flore-pleno.
Spiraea revirescens. Syringa villosa.
Spiraea Schinabeekii. Syringa vulgaris.
Spiraea Thunbergii. Tamarix gallica.
Spiraea tomentosa. Tamarix gallica var. indica.
Spiraea trilobate. Tamarix juniperina.
Spiraea Van Houttei. Tamarix odeseana.
Spiraea virginiana. Tamarix parviflora.
Staphylea Bumalda. Vaccinium arboreum.
Stuphylea colchica. Vaccinium corymbosum.
Staphylea pinnata. Viburnum dentatum.
Staphylea trifolia. Viburnum dilatatum.
Stephanandra incisa. Viburnum Lantana.
Stewartia pentagyna. Viburnum macrocephalum.
Styrax americana. Viburnum macrocephalum var.
Styrax japonica. sterile.
Styrax Obassia. Viburnum nudum.
Symphoricarpos albus. Viburnum Opulus.
Symphoricarpos microphyllus. Viburnum Opulus var. nanum.
Symphoricarpos occidentalis. Viburnum Opulus var. sterile.
Symphoricarpos orbiculatus. Vitex Agnus-castus.
Syringa chinensis. Vitex incisa.
Syringa Josikea. Xanthorrhiza apiifolia.
Syringa pekinensis. Zenobia speciosa.
Syringa persica.
Vines for the Piedmont Zone.
Actinidia arguta. Kadeura japonica.
Actinidia chinensis. Lonicera americana.
Actinidia Kolomitka. Lonicera chinensis.
Akebia lobata, Lonicera flava.
Akebia quinata. Lonicera glaucescens.
Ampelopsis arborea. Lonicera Heckrottii.
Antigonon leptopus. Lonicera japonica.
Aristolochia macrophylla. Lonicera japonica var. aureo-
Berchemia racemosa. reticulata.
Bignonia capreolata, Lonicera Periclymenum var
Campsis chinensis. belgica.
Campsis hybrida. Lonicera prolifera.
Campsis, Mme. Gallen. Lonicera sempervirens.
Campsís radicans. Lonicera Vilmorinii.
Celaetrus orbiculatue. Menispermum canadense,
Clematis apiifolia. Parthenocissus Henryana.
Clematis crispa. Parthenocissus quinquefolia.
Clematis Flammula. Parthenocissus quinquefolia
Clematis hybrida. var. Engelmannii.
Clematis texensis. Parthenocissus tricuspidata var.
Clematis Viorna. Veitchii.
Clematis virginiana. Passiflora caerulea.
Decumaria barbara. Periploca graeca.
Dioscorea Batatas. Polygonum baldschuanicum.
Elaeagnus reflxa. Pueraria hirsuta.
Evonymus radicans. Solanum jasminoides var. gran-
Evonymus radicans var. varie- diflorum.
gata. Trachelospermum jasminodes.
Evonymus radicans var. vegeta. Vitis aestivalis.
Ficus pumila. Vitis cordifolia.
Gclsemium sempervirens. Vitis Labrusca.
Gelsemium scmpervirens flore- Vitis rotundifolia.
pleno. Wisteria chinensis.
Hedera canariensis. Wisteria chinensis var. alba.
Hedera helix. Wisteria chinensis flore-pleno.
Humulus Lupulus. Wisteria multijuga.
Hydrangea petiolaris. Wisteria speciosa.
Broad-leaved evergreens for the Piedmont Zone.
Abelia floribunda. Cotoneaster rotundifolia var.
Abelia grandiflora. lanata.
Arbutus Unedo. Cotoneaster Simonsii.
Ardisia crenulata var. rubra. Cotoneaster thymifolia.
Aucuba japonica. Daphne Cneorum.
Aucuba japonica var. lati- Elaeagnus macrophylla.
maculata. Elaeagnus pungens.
Azalea amoena. Elaeagnus pungens var. Simoni.
Azalea indica. Elaeagnus variegata.
Azalea indica Kaempferi (Sar Eriobotrya japonica.
gent's hybrids). Escallonia montevidensis.
Azalea obtusa. Escallonia virgata.
Berberis buxifolia. Evonymus japonica.
Berberis Darwinii. Evonymue japonica var. aureo-
Berberis hakecides. variegata.
Berberis ilicifolia. Evonymus japonica var. micro
Berberis Neubertii. phylla.
Berberis Sargentiana. Fuchsia corallina.
Berberis stenophylla. Fuchsia gracilis.
Buxus japonica var. aurea. Gardenia josminoides.
Buxus sempervirens. Gardenia jasminoides var. For-
Buxus sempervirens var. Hand- tuniana.
worthii. Gardenia jasminoides var. radi
Buxus sempervirens var. suf- cans.
fruticosa. Gardenia jasminoides var.
Callistennon lanceolatus. Veitchii.
Calluna vulgaris. Ilex Aquifplium.
Calluna vulgaris var. alba. Ilex Aquifolium var. aureo-
Camellia japonica. regina.
Cleyera ochnacea. Ilex Aquifolium var. ferox.
Cotoneaster horizontalis. Ilex crenata
Cotoneaster microphylla. Ilex glabra.
Cotoneaster microphylla var. Ilex integra.
glacialis, Ilex latifolia.
Cotoneaster rotundifolia. Ilex vomitoria.
Illicium anisatum. Photinia serrulata.
Ixora chinensis. Pieris floribunda,
Kalmia angustifolia. Pieris japonica.
Kalmia latifolia. Pittosporum Tobira.
Laurus nobilis. Prunus caroliniana.
Leiophyllum buxifolium. Prunus Laurocerasus var. schip-
Leucothoe Catesbaei. kaensis.
Leucothoe populifolia. Prunus lusitanica.
Ligustrum coriaceum. Pyracantha coccinea.
Ligustrum excelsum superbum. Pyracantha coccinea var La-
Ligustrum japonicum. landii.
Ligustrum lucidum. Raphiolepsis indica.
Ligustrum macrophyllum. Rhododendron arboreum.
Ligustrum marginatum aureum. Rhododendron arbutifolium.
Liguetrum nepalense. Rhododendron catawbiense.
Ligustrum Quihoui. Rhododendron catawbiense hy-
Ligustrum sinense. bridum.
Mahonia Aquifolium. Rhododendron maximum.
Mahonia japonica. Rhododendron myrtifolium.
Mahonia repens. Rhododendron ponticum.
Mahonia pinnata. Rhododendron punctatum.
Michelia fuscata. Skimmia japonica.
Myrtus communis. Thea sinensis.
Nandina domestica. Veronica Traversii.
Nerium. Viburnum odoratissimum.
Osmanthus Aquifolium. Viburnum suspensum
Osmanthus fragrans. Viburnum Tinus.
Osmanthus Fortunei. Yucca filamentosa.
Pernettya mucronata. Yucca glauca.
Pernettya speciosa. Yucca gloriosa.
Phillyrea angustifolia. Yucca Treculeana.
Phillyrca decora.
2. Coastal Zone extends from the Fall Line, as outlined under the Piedmont Zone, to the Atlantic Ocean and Gulf of Mexico, but exclusive of that part of Florida south of a line drawn across the state to St. Augustine and Cedar Keys.
Deciduous shrubs for the Coastal Zone.
Acacia Farnesiana. Cornus Amomum.
Acanthopanax pentaphyllus. Cornus sanguinea.
Aesculus octanara. Coronilla Emerus.
Aesculus Pavia. Corylus americana.
Amelanchier rotundifolia. Cotoneaeter multiflora.
Amorpha canescens. Cotoneaster racemiflora.
Amorpha fruticosa. Deutzia rosea.
Aronia arbutifolia. Deutzia Lemoinei.
Azalea arborescens. Deutzia scabra var. candidis-
Azalea lutea. sima.
Azalea nudiflora. Deutzia scabra var. flore-pleno
Azalea viscosa. rosea.
Berberis aristata. Deutzia scabra. Pride of
Berberis sinensis. Rochester.
Berberis Thunbergii. Deutzia Sieboldiana.
Berberis vulgaris. Diervilla florida.
Berberis vulgaris var. atro- Diervilla hybrida.
purpurea. Dirca palustris.
Buddleia Davidii. Elaeagnus angustifolia.
Buddleia Davidii var. magnifica. Elaeagnus multiflora
Buddleia intermedia. Elaeagnus parvifolia.
Buddleia japonica. Elaeagnus umbellata.
Buddleia Lindleyana. Erythrina Crista-galli.
Buddleia officinalis. Evonymus alata.
Caesalpinia Pillesii. Evonymus americana.
Callicarpa americana. Evonymus europaea.
Callicarpa purpurea. Evonymus nana.
Calycanthus fertilis. Evonymue patens.
Calycanthus florida. Exochorda Korolkowii.
Calycanthus occidentalis. Exochorda racemosa.
Caryopteris incana Fontanesia Fortunei.
Cassia macrantha. Fontanesia phillyraeoides.
Ceanothus americanus. Forsythia intermedia.
Ceanothus hybridus, Forsythia suspensa.
Cephalanthus occidentalis. Forsythia suspensa var. For
Cercis japonica. tunei.
Cercis Siliquastrum. Forsythia viridissima.
Chaenomeles japonica. Halimodendron halodendron
Chilopsis saligna. Hamamelis virginiana.
Clerodendron trichotomum. Hibiscus syriacus.
Clethra alnifolia. Hippophae rhamnoides.
Cornus alba. Hydrangea arborescens.
Hydrangea arborescens var. Rhus Michauxii.
sterilis. Ribes curvatum.
Hydrangea Hortensia. Robinia hispida.
Hydrangea quercifolia. Rosmarinus officinalia.
Hypericum calycinum. Rosa Carolina.
Hypericum densiflorum. Rosa rugosa.
Hypericum glomeratum. Rosa setigera.
Hypericum lobocarpum. Roses, Bourbon.
Hypericum Moserianum. Roses, Brier and Penzance
Hypericum prolificum. Sweetbriers.
Ilex decidua. Roses, Hybrid Perpetual.
Ilex verticillata. Roses, Hybrid Tea.
Indigofera Gerardiana, Roses, Japanese.
Itea virginica. Roses, Monthly or China.
Jasminum fruticans. Roses, Polyantha.
Jaaminum humile. Roses, Tea.
Jaaminum nudiflorum. Rubus laciniatus.
Jasminum officinale. Salix incana.
Kerria japonica. Salix sericea
Kerria japonica var. argenteo- Salvia Greggii.
variegata. Salvia Greggii var
Kerria japonica var. flore-pleno. alba.
Lagerstroemia indica. Sambucus canodensis
Lespedeza bicolor. Sambucus nigra.
Leapedeza Sieboldii. Sambucus nigra var.
Ligustrum acuminatum. laciniata
Liguatrum amurense. Spartium junceum.
Liguatrum Ibota. Spiraea albiflora.
Ligustrum Ibota var. Regel- Spiriea arguta.
ianum. Spiriea Billardii.
Ligustrum ovalifolium. Spiriea blanda.
Ligustrum vulgare. Spiraea Bumalda.
Lonicera bella. Spiraea cantonensis.
Lonicera fragrantissima. Spiraea cantonensis
Lonicera gracilipes. flore-pleno.
Lonicera Morrowii. Spiraea Douglasii.
Lonicera Ruprechtiana. Spirwa Fontenaysii.
Lonicera Standishii. Spirwa Fortunei var.
Lonicera tatarica. semperflorens.
Lycium halimifolium. Spiraea Froebelii.
Meratia praecox. Spiraea japonica.
Myriea carolinensis. Spiraea macrophylla.
Myriea cerifera. Spiraea prunifolia.
Myriearia germanica. Spiraea prunifolia
Neviusia alabamensia. flore-pleno.
Paliurus Spina-Christi. Spiraea revirescens.
Philadelphus coronarius. Spiraea Thunbergii.
Philadelphus coronarius var. Spiraea Van Houttei.
flore-pleno. Stephanandra incisa.
Philadelphus grandiflorus (cor- Stewartia pentagyna.
onarius var.). Styrax americana.
Philadelphus inodorus, Styrax japonica.
Philadelphus pubescens. Symphoricarpos microphyllus.
Philadelphus laxus. Symphoricarpos orbiculatus.
Philadelphus Lemoinei. Syringa chinensis.
Philadelphus Lewisii. Syringa pekinensis.
Philadelphia pubescens. Syringa persica.
Philadelphus, Avalanche. Tamarix gallica.
Philadelphus, Mont Blanc. Tamarix gallica var.indica.
Physpcarpua opulifolius. Tamarix juniperina.
Poncirus trifoliata. Tamarix hispida var. GPstivalia.
Potentilla fruticosa. Tamarix odessana.
Prunua japonica. Tamarix parviflora.
Prunus maritima. Viburnum macrocephalum.
Prunus pumila. Viburnum nudum.
Prunus triloba. Viburnum Opulus var. sterile.
Punica granatum. Vitex Agnua-caatUB.
Hhamnus catbartica. Vitex incisa.
Rhodotypos kerrioides. Zenobia speciosa.
Rhus canadensis.
Vines for the Coastal Zone.
Akebia quinata. Kadsura japonica.
Akebia lobata. Lonicera amcricans.
Ampelopsis arborea. Lonicera chinensis.
Ampelopsis heterophylla var. Lonicera flava.
elegans. Lonicera glaucescens.
Antigonon leptopus. Lonicera Heckrottii.
Berchemia racemosa. Lonicera japonica.
Bignonia capreolata. Lonicera japonica var. aureo-
Campsis chineiisis. reticulata.
Campsis hybrida. Lonicera Periclymenum var.
Campsis. Mme. Gallen. belgica.'
Campsis radicans. Lonicera prolifera.
Clematis crispa. Lonicera sempervirens.
Clematis Flammula. Lonicera Vilmorinii.
Clematis paniculuta. Parthenocissus Henryana.
Clematis texenais. Parthenocissus quinquefolia.
Decumaria barbara. Parthenocissus quinquefolia
Dioscorea Batatas var. Engelmannii.
Elaeagnus reflexa. Parthenocissus tricuspidata var.
Evonymus radicans. Veitchii.
Evonymus radicana var. varie- Passiflora caerulea.
gata. Periploca gra?ca.
Ficus pumila. Polygonum baldschuanicum
Gelsemium sempervirena. Pueraria hirsuta.
Gelsemium sempervirens flore- Pyrostegia venusta.
pleno. Solanum jasminoides var. gran-
Hedera canariensis. diflorum.
Hedera helix. Trachelospermum jasminoides.
Jasminum primulinum. Vitis aestivalis.
Vitis cordifolia. Wisteria chinensis var. flore
Vitis rotundifolia. pleno.
Wisteria chinensis. Wisteria multijuga.
Wisteria chinensis var. alba. Wisteria speciosa.
Broad-leaved evergreens for the Coastal Zone.
Abelia floribunda. lex integra.
Abelia grandiflora. Ilex latifolia.
Arbutus Unedo. Ilex vomitoria.
Ardisia crenulata var.rubra. Illicium anisatum.
Azalea amoena. Ixora chinensis.
Azalea indica. Kalmia latifolia.
Azalea obtusa. Laurus nobilis.
Berbcns buxifolia. Leiophyllum buxifolium.
Berbcria Darwinii. Leucothoe Cateabffi.
Berberis ilicifolia. Leucothoe populifolia.
Berberis Neubertii. Leucothoe racemosa.
Berheria stenophylla. Ligustrum excelsum superbum.
Buxus japonica var. aurea. Ligustrum iaponicum.
Buxus sempervirens. Ligustrum lucidum.
Buxus sempervirens var. Hand- Ligustrum macrophyllum.
worthii. Ligustrum marginatum
Buxus sempervirens var. suf- aureum.
fruticosa. Liguatrum nepalense.
Callistemon lanceolatus. Ligustrum Quihoui.
Camellia japonica. Ligustrum sinense.
Cleyera ochnacea. Mahonia Aquifolium.
Cotoneaster horizontalis. Mahonia japonica.
Cotoneaster microphylla. Michelia fuscata.
Cotoneaster microphylla var. Myrtus communis.
glacialis. Nandina domestica.
Cotoneaater rotundifolia. Nerium.
Cotoneaster rotundifolia var. Osmanthus Aquifolium.
Janata. Osmanthua Fortunei.
Cotoneaster Simonsii. Osmnanthua fragrans.
Cotoneaster thymifolia. Pernettya mucronata.
Elaeagnus macrophylla. Pernettya speciosa.
Elaeagnus pungens. Phillyrea anguatifolia.
Elaeagnus pungens var. Simoni. Phillyrea decora.
Elaeagnus variegata. Photinia serrulata.
Eriobotrya japonica. Pieris floribunda.
Escallonia virgata. Pieris japonica.
Escallonia montevidensis. Pittosporum Tobira,
Evonymus japonica. Prunus caroliniana.
Evonymus japonica var. aureo- Prunus Laurocerasus.
variegata. Prunus Laurocerasus var.
Evonymus japonica var. micro schipkaenais.
phylla. Prunus lusitanica
Fuchsia corallina. Pyracantha coccinea.
Fuchsia gracilis. Pyracantha coccinea var. La-
Gardenia jasminoides. landii.
Gardenia jasminoides var. For- Raphiolepsis indica.
tuniana. Thea sinensis.
Gardenia jasminoides var. radi Viburnum odoratissimum.
cans. Viburnum suspensum.
Gardenia jaaminoides var. Viburnum Tinus.
Veitchii. Yucca aloifolia.
Ilex cornuta. Yucca filamentosa.
Ilex crenata. Yucca gloriosa.
Ilex glabra. Yucca Treculeana
3. Mountain or Upper Zone includes all that territory above Harper's Ferry, Maryland; Roanoke, Virginia; Winston-Salem, Morganton, and Rutherfordton, North Carolina; Spartanburg and Pendleton, South Carolina;
Gainesville and Cartersville, Georgia; Huntsville, Alabama; Murfreesboro, Tennessee, and thence north to the Kentucky line.
Deciduous shrubs for the Mountain or Upper Zone
Acanthopanax pentaphyllus. Elaeagnus angustifolía.
Acer japonica. Elaeagnua argentea.
Aesculus octandra Elaeagnus multiflora.
Aesculus Pavía. Elaeagnus parvifolia.
Amelanchier atropurpurea Elaeagnua umbellata.
Amelanchier canadensis. Evonymus alata.
Amelanchier rutundifolia. Evonymus americana.
Amorpha canescens. Evonymus Bungeana.
Amorpha fruticosa. Evonymus europaea.
Amorpha glabra. Evonymus Maackii.
Amorpha tennesseensis. Evonymus nana.
Aralia chinensis var. mand- Evonymus patens.
schurica. Exochorda Korolkowii.
Aronia arbutifolia. Exochorda racemosa.
Aronia melanocarpa. Fontanesia Fortunei.
Ascyrum hypericoides. Fontanesia phillyraeoides.
Baccharis halimifolia. Forestiera acuminata.
Bensoin aestivale. Foreatiera ligustrina.
Berberís asiatica. Forsythia intermedia.
Berberís canadensis. Forsythia suspensa.
Berberís heteropoda. Forsythia suspensa var. For
Berberís Sieboldii. tunei.
Berberís sinensis. Forsythia viridissima.
Berberís Thunbergii. Fothergilla Gardenii.
Berberís vulgaris. Fothergilla major.
Berberís vulgaris var. atro Fothergilla parviflora.
purpurea. Genista germanica.
Buckleya distichophylla. Genista tinctoria,
Buddleia Davidii var. magnifica Halimodendron halodendron.
Buddleia intermedia. Hamamelis virginiana.
Buddleia japonica. Hibiscus syriacus.
Buddleia Lindleyana. Hippophae rhamnoides.
Callicarpa americana. Holodiscus discolor.
Callicarpa purpurea, Hydrangea arborescens.
Calycanthus fertilis. Hydrangea arborescens var.
Calycanthus florida. sterilis.
Calycanthus occidentalis. Hydrangea Hortensia.
Caragana arborescens. Hydrangea paniculata.
Caragana Chamlagu. Hydrangea paniculata var.
Ceanothus americanus. grandiflora.
Ceanothus Fendleri. Hydrangea paniculata var. prae
Ceanothus hybridus. cox.
Cephalanthus occidentalis. Hydrangea quercifolia.
Cercis chinensis. Hydrangea radiata.
Cercis Siliquastrum. Hypericum aureum.
Chaenomeles japonica. Hypericum calycinum.
Chilopsis saligna. Hypericum densiflorum.
Clerodendron trichotomum. Hypericum glomeratum
Clethra alnifolia. Hypericum lobocarpum.
Colutea arborescens. Hypericum Moserianum.
Comptonia asplenifolia. Hypericum nudiflorum.
Cornus alba. Hypericum prolificum.
Cornus alba var. Spaethii. Ilex decidua.
Cornus Amomum. Ilex verticillata.
Cornus mas. Indigofera Gerardiana.
Cornus racemosa. Itea virginica.
Cornus rugosa. Jasminum fruticans.
Cornus sanguínea. Jasminum humile.
Cornus stolonifera. Jasminum nudiflorum.
Cornus stolonifera var. flavi Jasminum officinale.
ramea. Kerria japonica.
Coronilla Emerus. Kerria japonica var. argenteo
Corylopsis pauciflora. variegata.
Corylus americana. Kerria japonica flore-pleno.
Corylus Avellana. Lagerstroemeria indica.
Corylua Avellana var. laciniata.Lespedeza bicolor.
Corylus maxima var. purpurea. Leapedeza Sieboldii.
Corylus rostrata. Leucothoe racemosa.
Cotoneaster acutifolia. Leucothoe recurva.
Cotoneaster multiflora. Ligustrum acuminatum.
Cotoneaster racemiflora. Ligustrum amurense.
Cratffgus coccínea. Ligustrum Ibota,
Crataegus Oxyacantha. Ligustrum Ibota var. Regel
Crataegus Phaenopyrum. ianum.
Cytisus praecox. Ligustrum ovalifolium.
Cytisus scoparius. Ligustrum vulgare.
Daphne Mexereum vars, alba Lonicera bella.
and rubra. Lonicera fragrantissima.
Daphne Genkwa. Lonicera gracilipes.
Deutzia gracilis. Lonicera Morrowii.
Deutzia Lemoinei. Lonicera muscaviensis.
Deutzia rosea. Lonicera pyrenaica.
Deutzia scabra. Lonicera Ruprechtiana.
Deutzia scabra var. candidis Lonicera spinosa.
sima. Lonicera Standishii.
Deutzia scabra var. plena. Lonicera tatarica.
Deutzia scabra, Pride of Lonicera thibetica.
Rochester. Lonicera Xylosteum.
Deutzia Sieboldiana. Lycium vulgare.
Diervilla florida. Lyonia ligustrina.
Diervilla hybrida. Menziesia pilosa.
Diervilla rivularis. Meratia praecox.
Diervilla sessilifolia. Muehlenbeckia complexa.
Dirca palustris. Myrica carolinensis.
Myrica cerifera. Spiraea albiflora.
Myrica Gale. Spiraea arguta.
Myricaria germanica. Spiraea bethlehemensis var.
Neviusia alabamensis. rubra.
Paliurus Spina-Christi. Spiraea Billardii.
Philadelphus coronarius. Spiraea Billardii var. longi-
Philadelphus coronarius var. pedunculata.
flore-pleno. Spiraea blanda.
Philadelphus Falconeri. Spiraea Bumalda.
Philadelphus floridus. Spiraea californica.
Philadelphus gloriosus. Spiraea cantonenais.
Philadolphus grandiflorus (cor Spiraea cantonenais flore-
onarius var.). pleno.
Philadelphus hirsutus. Spiraea crenata.
Philadelphus inodorus. Spiraea Douglasii.
Philadelphus laxus. Spiraea eximia.
Philadelphus Lemoinei. Spiraea Fontenaysii.
Philadelphus Lewisii. Spiraea Fortuner var. semper-
Philadelphus pubescens. florens.
Philadelphus, Avalanche. Spiraea Froebelii.
Philadelphus, Mont Blanc. Spiraea japonica.
Photinia villosa. Spiraea Lenneana.
Physocarpus opulifoliua. Spiraea macrophylla.
Physocarpus opulifoliua var. Spiraea Margaritae.
aureus. Spiraea Menziesii.
Pieris mariana. Spiraea nipponica.
Poncirus trifoliata. Spiraea prunifolia.
Potentilla fruticosa. Spiraea prunifolia flore-pleno,
Prunus Besseyi. Spiraea Schinabeckii.
Prunus incana. Spiraea Thunbergii.
Prunus japonica. Spiraea trilobata.
Prunus marítima. Spiraea Van Houttei.
Prunus pumila. Spiraea revirescens.
Prunue triloba. Spiraea syringaeflora.
Punica Granatum. Spiraea tomentosa.
Rhamnus cathartica. Spiraea virginiana.
Rhamnus Frangula. Staphylea Bumalda.
Rhododendron arborescens. Staphylca colchica.
Rhododendron canadense. Staphylea pinnata.
Rhododendron gandavensis. Staphylea trifolia.
Rhododendron japonicum. Stephanandra incisa.
Rhododendron luteum. Stephanandra Tanakae.
Rhododendron nudiflorum. Stewartia pentagyna.
Rhododendron ponticum. Stewartia Pseudo-Camellia.
Rhododendron Vaseyi. Styrax americana.
Rhododendron viecosum. Styrax japonica.
Rhodotypos kerrioides. Styrax Obassia.
Rhus canadensis. Symphoricarpos albus.
Rhua Michauxii. Symphoricarpos microphyllus.
Ribes aureum. Symphoricarpos occidentalis.
Ribes curvatum. Symphoricarpos orbiculatus.
Ribes Cynosbatii. . Symphoricarpos ovatus.
Ríbes glandulosum. Syringa chinensis.
Ribes Gordonianum. Syringa Josikea.
Ribes nigrum. Syringa pekinensio.
Ribes rotundifolium. Syringa peraica.
Ribes sanguineum. Syringa villosa.
Robinia hispida. Syringa vulgaris.
Rosa alpina. Syringa vulgaris, named sorts.
Rosa blanda. Tamarix gallíca.
Rosa Carolina. Tamarix gallica var. indica.
Rosa rubiginosa. Tamarix hispida var. aestivalia.
Rosa rugosa. Tamarix juniperina.
Rosa setigera. Tamarix odessana.
Roses, Bourbon. Tamarix parviflora.
Roses Brier and Penzance Ulex europaeus.
Sweetbriers Ulex nanus.
Roses, Hybrid Perpetual. Vaccinium corymbosum.
Roses, Hybrid Tea. Vaccinium pallidum.
Roses, Japanese. Vaccinium pennsylvanicum.
Roses, Monthly or China, Viburnum acerifolium.
Roses, Moss. Viburnum alnifolium.
Roses, Polyantha Viburnum cassinoides.
Rosee, Tea. Viburnum dentatum.
Rosmarinus officinalis Viburnum dilatatum.
Rubus laciniatus. Viburnum Lantana.
Rubus odoratus. Viburnum macrocephalum.
Rubus parviflorus. Viburnum macroccphalum var.
Rubus rosoeflorus. sterile.
Salix discolor. Viburnum nudum.
Salix humilis. Viburnum Opulus.
Salix incana. Viburnum Opulus var.
Salix lucida. nanum.
Salix sericea. Viburnum Opulus var. sterile
Salix tristis. Viburnum Sieboldii.
Sambucus canadensis. Viburnum tomentosum.
Sambucus nigra. Viburnum tomentosum var.
Sambucus nigra var. laciniata. plenum.
Sambucus pubens. Vitex Agnus-castus.
Shepherdia argentea. Vitex incisa.
Spartium junceum. Xanthorrhiza apiifolia.
Spiraea alba. Zenobia speciosa.
Vines for the Mountain Zone.
Actinidia arguta. Ampelopsis heterophylla.
Actinidia Kolomitka. Ampelopsis heterophylla var
Akebia lobata. elegans.
Akebia quinata. Aristolochia macrophylla.
Ampelopsis arborea. Berchemia racemosa.
Ampelopsis cordata. Bignonia capreolata.
Brunnichia cirrhosa (a somewhat shrubby, tendril-climbing plant native in eastern United States ; allied to Polygonella).
Campsis chinensis,
Campsis hybridft.
Campsis, Mme. Gallen.
Campsis radicans.
Celastrus orbiculatus.
Celastrus scandens.
Clematis apiifolia.
Clematis crispa.
Clematis Flammula.
Clematis hybrida.
Clematis montana.
Clematis orientalis.
Clematis paniculata.
Clematis Viorna.
Clematis virginiana.
Clematis Vitalba.
Decumaria barbara.
Elaeagnus reflexa.
Evonymus radicans.
Evonymus radicans var. variegata.
Evonymus radicans yar. vegeta.
Gelaemium sempervirens.
Hedera helix.
Humulus Lupulus.
Hydrangea petiolaris.
Lonicera americana.
Lonicera chinensis.
Lonicera etrusca.
Lonicera flava.
Lonicera glaucescens.
Lonicera Heckrottii.
Lonicera japonica.
Lonicera japonica var. aureo-
reticulata.
Lonicera Periclymenum var.
belgica.
Lonicera prolifera.
Lonicera sempervirens.
Lonicera Vilmorinii.
Menispermum canadense.
Parthenocissus quinquefolia.
Parthenocissus quinquefolia
var. Engelmannii.
Parthenocissus tricuspidata var.
Veitchii.
Periploca graeca.
Polygonum cilinode.
Pueraria hirsuta.
Vitis aetivalia.
Vitis cordifolia.
Vitis Labrusca.
Vitis rotundifolia.
Wisteria chinensis.
Wisteria chinensis var. alba.
Wisteria chinensis flore-pleno.
Wisteria multijuga.
Wisteria speciosa.
Broad-leaved evergreens for the Mountain Zone.
Abelia grandiflora.
Andromeda polifolia.
Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi.
Azalea amoena.
Azalea indica (hardy sorts).
Azalea indica Kaempferi (Sargent's hybrids).
Azalea obtusa.
Berberis hakeoides.
Berberís ilicifolia.
Berberís Neubertii.
Berbería Sargentiana.
Buxus japonica var. aurea.
Buxus sempervirens.
Buxus sempervirens var. Hand- worthii.
Buxus sempervirena var suffru- ticosa.
Calluna vulgaris.
Calluna vulgaris var. alba.
Chamaedaphne calyculata.
Cotoneaster horizontalis.
Cotoneaster microphylla.
Cotoneaster microphylla var. glacialis.
Cotoneaster rotundifolia.
Cotoneaster rotundifolia var. lanata.
Cotoneaster Simonsii.
Cotoneaster thymifolia.
Daphne Blagayana.
Daphne Cneorum.
Elaeagnus macrophylla.
Elaeagnus variegata.
Ephedra distachya.
Erica carnea.
Erica stricta.
Erica Tetralix.
Erica vagans.
Evonymus japonica,
Evonymus japonica var. aureo- variegata.
Evonymus japonica var. microphylla.
Evonymus patens.
Ilex Aquifolium.
Ilex Aquifolium var. aureo-regina.
Ilex Aquifolium var. ferox.
Ilex Aquifolium var. ferox va- riega ta.
Ilex Aquifolium var. laurifolia.
Ilex cornuta.
Ilex glabra.
Ilex crenata.
Ilex vomitoria.
Kalmia angustifolia.
Kalmia glauca.
Kalmia latifolia.
Leiophyllum buxifolium.
Leiophyllum buxifolium var.
prostratum.
Leucothoe Catesbaei.
Leucothoe populifolia,
Ligustrum coriaceum.
Liguatrum japonicum.
Ligustrum lucidum.
Ligustrum macrophyllum.
Ligustrum nepalense.
Ligustrum Quihoui.
Liguatrum sinense.
Mahonia Aquifolium.
Mahonia japonica.
Mahonia pinnata.
Mahonia repens.
Nandina domestica.
Osmanthus Aquifolium.
Osmanthus Fortunei.
Phillyrea angustifolia.
Phillyrea decora.
Photinia serrulata.
Pieris floribunda.
Pieris japonica.
Prunus Laurocerasus.
Prunus Lnurocerasus var.
schipkaensis.
Prunus lusitanica.
Pyracantha coccinea.
Pyracantha coccinea var. La-
landii.
Rhododendron arboreum.
Rhododendron arbutifolium.
Rhododendron catawbiense.
Rhododendron catawbiense var.
hybridum.
Rhododendron maximum.
Rhododendron myrtifolium.
Rhododendron punctatum.
Rhododendron ponticum.
Rhododendron Wilsonii.
Skimmia japonica.
Veronica Traversii.
Yucca filamentosa.
Yucca glauca.
Yucca gloriosa.
Yucca Treculeana.
L. A. Berckmans.
Ornamental shrubs for California.
No pretensions have been made in compiling the following list to include every plant of desirable ornamental characteristics that will grow in California. Many exotics are being continually introduced, some of which have proved highly satisfactory, while others are little known. The effort has been rather to classify under various subheads those shrubs which are undoubtedly suited for the purpose indicated and which have proved themselves well adapted to the various sections of the state.
Many of the deciduous ornamental plants commonly employed in the eastern United States for landscape planting have purposely been omitted, as they fail to produce the same wonderful spring-flower effects under the different climatic conditions of California. Only such deciduous shrubs as bloom freely and seem to have become more or less adapted to the drier climate of this state are included.Because of the great variety of climatic and soil conditions throughout the state, it has become necessary to think of it as divided into three general regions,—the interior valleys, the San Francisco Bay district, and that part of southern California in the vicinity of the coast.
Those kinds marked with a dagger(+) will thrive only in southern California; those with a star (*) will grow in the South and as far north on the coast as the San Francisco Bay region, while such kinds as have no abbreviation attached will probably grow in all the cultivated areas of the state, including the large interior valleys. With one exception, the shrubs in the lists are arranged in the order of their desirability for the purposes described by the subhead. By cross-reference, the lists should prove helpful in selecting species of certain characteristics for given climatic and cultural conditions to produce the results desired.
Group I. Shrubs which are more or less resistant to conditions created by full shade.
While the larger number of these shrubs will produce the best results in half-shade, or even in full sun if -given sufficient water, they are more or less tolerant to conditions existing under live oak trees, in courts, or on the north sides of buildings.
Evergreen.
Vaccinium ovatum (3 feet).
* Tree ferns in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Aucuba japonica (4 feet).
* Coprosma Baueri (6 feet).
Evonymus in variety (6 to 8 feet).
Fatsia japonica (6 feet).
Mahonia in variety (4 feet).
Sollya heterophylla (3 feet).
Asystasia bella (3 feet).
Hypericum calycinum (1 foot).
Ligustrum in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Osmanthua in variety (3 to 10 feet).
Buxus sempervirens (2 to 8 feet).
* Abutilon striatum (8 feet).
Abelia grandiflora (6 feet).
Azalea indica (4 feet).
Hydrangea Hortensia (5 feet).
Nandina domestica (6 feet).
Berberis Darwinii (5 feet).
*Trachelospermum jaaminoides (3 feet).
Jasminum humile (6 feet).
*Fuchsia in variety (6 feet).
Myrtus communis (3 to 5 feet).
*Myrtus Ugni (4 feet).
Eugenia apiculata (8 feet).
*Philadelphus mexicanus (5 feet).
Cotoneaster horizontalis (2 to 3 feet).
*Reinwardtia trigyna (3 feet).
Deciduous.
Symphoricarpos racemosus (3 feet).
Ribes speciosum (3 feet).
Azalea sinense (3 feet).
Kerria japonica (6 feet).
Chaenomeles japonica (6 feet).
Group II. Shrubs which thrive most successfully in half- shades in California.
Many plants will produce the best results in full sun if favorable moisture conditions can be maintained throughout the summer, but the amount of sun exposure that plants in this list will withstand depends largelyon the section of the state in which they are located and on the amount of water they receive.Because of neglect aided by the long dry season, they often do better, however, in half-shade where the soil does
not dry out so rapidly.
Evergreen.
Daphne odora (3 feet).
Erica in variety (2 to 5 feet).
*Coprosma Baueri (6 feet).
Philadelphus mexicanus (5 feet).
Abelia grandiflora (6 feet).
Sollya heterophylla (3 feet).
*Fuchsia in variety (6 feet).
Azara microphylla (8 feet).
Hydrangea Hortensia (5 feet)
Cotoneaster horizontails (2 to 3 feet).
Camellia in variety(8 feet).
Hypericum calycinum (1 foot).
Hypericum Moserianum (3 feet).
Mahonia in variety (4 feet).
Fatsia japonica (6 feet).
*Abutilon striatum (8 feet).
*Trachelospermum jasminoides (3 feet).
Aucuba japonica (4 feet).
Nandina domestica (6 feet).
Escallonia rubra (6 feet).
Pittosporum Tobira(12 feet).
Pittoaporum heterophyllum (3 feet).
Cuphea in variety (2 feet).
Clerodendron in variety (6 feet).
Buxus in variety (2 to 8 feet).
*Cestrum in variety(8 feet).
Cornus capitata (10 feet).
Azalea in variety (4 feet).
Rhododendron in variety (5 feet).
Osmanthus in variety (3 to 10 feet).
Michelia fuscata (6 feet).
Pyracantha crenulata (6 feet).
Viburnum Tinus var. lucidum (10 feet).
Garrya elliptica (8 feet).
Arbutus Menziesii (25 feet).
* Myrtus Ugni (4 feet).
Ilex Aquifolium (6 to 10 feet).
Maytenue Boaria (10 to 20 feet).
* Heliotropium in variety (4 feet).
* Plumbago capensis (4 feet).
* Statice in variety (2 feet).
Chorisema ilicifolium (5 feet).
Ternstroemia japonica (8 feet).
Asystasia bella (3 feet).
* Tibouchina splendens (5 feet).
*Jacobinia in variety (3 feet).
Strobilanthes Dyerianus (5 feet).
Templetonia retusa (3 feet).
Thevetia nereifolia (8 feet).
* Melianthus major (4 feet).
* Tree ferns in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Prunus Laurocerasus (8 to 10 feet ).
Deciduous.
Chaenomeles japonica (6 feet).
Diervilla in variety (8 feet).
Kerria japonica (6 feet).
Deutzia in variety (4 feet).
Berberís Thunbergii (3 feet).
Paeonia suffruticosa (3 feet).
Rhododendron, Hinodigiri (3 feet).
Rhododendron sinense (3 feet).
Ribes in variety (6 to 8 feet).
Philadelphus in variety (6 feet).
spiraea Van Houttei (4 feet).
Spiraea cantoniensis (5 feet).
Viburnum Opulus var. sterile (8 feet).
Viburnum tomentosum var. plicatum (6 feet).
Syringa in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Magnolia in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Group III. Shrubs which thrive most successfully in protected sunny locations.
Many plants, native of countries warmer than California, require warm moist situations.
Evergreen.
Acacia in variety (5 to 20 feet).
Acocanthera spectabilis (6 feet).
Bauhinia in variety (8 to 10 feet).
Berberis Darwinii (6 to 8 feet ).
Bouvardia Humboldtii (5 feet).
* Buddleia Davidii var. Veitchiana (6 to 8 feet).
* Cantua buxifolia (8 feet).
* Carissa grandiflora (4 feet).
* Cassia in variety (4 to 10 feet).
Choisya ternata (6 feet).
Cistus in variety (2 to 4 feet ).
Cotoneaster in variety (2 to 8 feet).
Cytisus in variety (6 to 8 feet).
* Diosma ericoides (4 feet).
Dombeya natalensis (10 to 12 feet).
Dombeya spectabilis (8 to 10 feet).
* Duranta Plumieri (6 to 8 feet).
Escallonia montevidensis (8 feet).
Escallonia pulverulenta (8 to 10 feet).
Eecallonia rosea (8 feet).
Eugenia apiculata (8 feet).
Eugenia jambolana (10 to 15 feet).
* Eugenia myrtifolia (10 to 15 feet).
Eugenia uniflora (6 to 8 feet).
Euphorbia pulcherrima (6 to 8 feet).
Feijoa Sellowiana (8 feet).
* Genista monosperma (6 to 8 fret).
* Grevillea Thelemanniana (4 feet).
* Hardenbergia monophylla (5 feet).
Hibiscus heterophyllus (8 feet),
Hibiscus Rosa-sinensis (8 to 10 feet),
Iochroma in variety (8 to 10 feet).
Jasminum humile (6 feet).
* Lantana in variety (4 to 6 feet).
Leptospermum scoparium var. Chapmannii (8 feet).
Leptospermum scoparium var. Nichollii (4 to 6 feet).
Leptoepermum scoparium var. bullatum (4 feet).
Leptospermum laevigatum (6 to 10 feet).
Lonicera nitida (4 to 6 feet).
* Malvaviscus mollis (6 feet).
Melaleuca in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Metrosideros lucida (6 feet).
Metrosideros robusta (8 feet).
Myrtus communis (3 to 5 feet,).
Nerium Oleander (8 to 10 feet).
Oxera pulchella (2 to 4 feet).
Photinia scrrulata (10 to 12 feet).
Pimelea ferruginea (4 to 6 feet).
Pittosporum eugenioides (10 to 15 feet).
* Pittosporum rhombifolium (10 to 15 feet).
Pittosporum tenuifolium (10 to 15 feet).
*Pittosporum undulatum (10 to 15 feet).
*Pittosporum viridiflorum (8 to 10 feet).
Polygala Dalmaisiana (3 to 5 feet).
Prunus lusitanica (8 feet).
* Psidium Cattleianum (3 to 6 feet).
Pyracantha angustifolia (6 feet).
Pyracantha coccinea (6 to 8 feet).
Quillaja Saponaria (10 to 15 feet).
* Raphiolepis indica (6 to 8 feet).
Raphiolepia umbellata (4 to 6 feet).
*Rhodorhiza florida (6 feet).
* Salvia Sessei (6 feet).
* Sparmannia africana (8 feet).
Spartiurn junceum (6 to 8 feet).
+ Sphaeralcea umbellata (8 feet).
* Solanum Rantonnetii (6 feet).
* Streptosolen Jamesonii (3 to 6 feet).
* Tecoma capensis (8 feet).
* Tecoma Smithii (6 to 8 feet).
*Tithonia diversifolia (8 to 10 feet).
Veronica in variety (2 to 6 feet).
Viburnum suspensum (6 feet).
* Wigandia oaracasana (8 to 10 feet).
Group IV. Shrubs resistant to soil and climatic conditions along the California seacoast.The plants in this list are fairly resistant to the effects of strong prevailing winds and thrive in dry sandy soils containing more or less salt and are therefore valuable for windbreaks and shelter plantings. In general, the finer the foliage and the more willowy or wire-like the branches, the more easily do they withstand the trying conditions. A noticeable exception is some few kinds of hardy palms which thrive under such conditions because of the stiff character of their leaves and stems.
Evergreen.
Cupressus macrocarpa (10 to 20 feet).
Tamarix in variety (8 feet).
Myrica californica (8 to 10 feet).
Acacia longifolia (6 to 10 feet).
* Atriplex Breweri (6 feet).
Casuarina in variety (10 to 25 feet).
* Coproama Baucri (6 feet).
Rhus integrifolia (6 feet).
Leptospermum in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Melaleuca in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Callistemon in variety (4 to 8 feet).
Myoporum laetum (8 to 12 feet).
Veronica in variety (2 to 6 feet).
* Anthyllis Barba-Jovis (4 to 6 feet).
Juniperus in variety (2 to 8 feet).
Ulex europaeus (6 feet).
Rhamnus californica (8 to 10 feet).
Ceanothus thyrsiflorus (6 to 10 feet).
Acacia melanoxylon (10 to 25 feet).
Acacia Farnesiana (10 to 12 feet).
Acacia armata (6 to 8 feet).
Coronilla glauca (4 to 6 feet).
Pittosporum crassifolium (10 to 15 feet).
Pittoeporum phillyraeoidca (10 to 15 feet).
Pittosporum Tobira (8 to 10 feet).
Escallonia rubra (6 feet).
Dodonaea in variety (8 feet).
Spartium junceum (6 to 8 feet).
Lyonthamnus floribundus var. asplenifolius (15 to 20 feet).
Medicago arborea (6 feet).
Cytisus in variety (6 to 8 feet).
Metrosideros tomentosa (6 to 12 feet).
Phillyrea latifolia (10 feet).
Polygala Dalmaisiana (3 to 5 feet).
Maytenus Boaria (10 to 20 feet).
Hakea in variety (8 to 10 feet).
Lycium chinense (6 feet).
Ceratonia Siliqua (8 to 12 feet).
Elaeagnus pungens (6 feet).
Artemisia arborescens (6 feet).
* Statice in variety (1 foot).
* Fieus macrophylla (10 to 20 feet).
* Echium in variety (4 to 6 feet).
Palms.
Chamaerops humilis (6 feet).
Phoenix canariensis (15 feet).
Phoenix dactylifera (20 feet).
Trachycarpus excelsus (20 feet).
Sabal Palmetto (12 feet).
Erythea armata (15 feet).
Washingtonia filifera (20 feet).
Erythea edulis (15 feet).
Group V. Shrubs resistant to heat, drought, and neglect.
In some semi-arid sections of California, it is necessary to use plants that will grow more or
less success-
fully under conditions of severe heat, drought, and neglect. Plants in this list are especially useful in those situations where no attention can be given after the plant is once established.
Evergreen.
Casuarina in variety (10 to 25 feet).
Acacia in variety (5 to 20 feet).
* Atriplex Breweri (6 feet).
Pittosporum phillyraeoides (10 to 15 feet).
Olea europaea (10 to 15 feet).
Pittosporum crassifolium (10 to 15 feet).
Tristania conferta (10 to 20 feet).
Photinia arbutifolia (8 to 10 feet).
Spartium junceum (6 to 8 feet).
Rhamnus californica (8 to 10 feet).
Ceanothus in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Cytisus in variety (6 to 8 feet).
Hakea in variety (8 to 10 feet).
Ligustrum in variety (8 to 10 feet).
Callistemon in variety (4 to 8 feet).
Melaleucas in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Cistus in variety (2 to 4 feet).
Albizzia Iophantha (10 feet).
Parkinsonia aculeata (8 to 10 feet).
Nerium Oleander (8 to 10 feet).
Myoporum laetum (8 to 12 feet).
Raphiolepis umbellata (4 to 6 feet).
Carpenteria californica (6 to 8 feet).
Ceratonia Siliqua (8 to 12 feet).
Evonymus japonica (0 to 8 feet).
Arbutus Unedo (8 feet).
Cassia tomentosa (8 feet).
Cassia artemisioides (4 feet).
Leptospermum in variety (6 to 10 feet).
* Agonis flexuosa (8 to 10 feet).
* Calothamnus quadrifidus (5 feet).
Elaeagnus pungens (6 feet).
Romneya Coulteri (6 feet).
* Buddleia in variety (6 to 8 feet).
Coronilla glauca (4 to 6 feet).
Dodonaea cuneata (6 to 8 feet).
Dodonaea viscosa (8 feet).
* Echium in variety (4 to 6 feet).
Phillyrea latifolia (10 feet).
Metrosideros tomentosa (6 to 12 feet).
* Malvaviscus mollis (6 feet).
Prunus ilicifolia var. integrifolia (10 to 12 feet).
Prunus caroliniana (10 to 12 feet).
Pyracantha crenulata (G to 8 feet).
Deciduous.
Tamarix parviflora (6 to 8 feet).
Tamarix hispida var. aestivalis (6 to 8 feet).
Chaenomeles japonica (6 feet).
Punica Granatum (6 feet).
Berberis vulgaris var. atropurpurea (6 to 8 feet).
Evonymus europaea (8 feet).
Prunus cerasifera var. atropurpurea (10 to 12 feet).
Group VI. Shrubs which are especially free-flowering.
Many species of ornamental shrubs are particularly free-flowering in California, while others possess several flowering periods throughout the year. Because of their tendency to bloom in the fall and winter seasons, they are especially useful in the more intensively developed
gardens where all-the-year-round effects are desired.
Evergreen.
Choisya ternata (6 feet).
* Cestrum elegans (6 feet).
Veronica in variety (2 to 6 feet).
Polygala Dalmaisiana (3 to 5 feet).
* Grevillea Thelemanniana (4 feet).
* Rhodorhiza florida (6 feet).
* Lantana in variety (4 to 6 feet).
* Fuchsia in variety (6 feet).
Sollya heterophylla (3 feet).
Berberis Darwinii (6 to 8 feet).
Escallonia rubra (4 to 6 feet).
* Streptosolen Jamesonii (3 to 6 feet).
Spartium junceum (6 to 8 feet).
Abelia grandiflora (6 feet).
+ Heterocentron roseum (1 foot).
* Genista monosperma (6 to 8 feet).
Pimelea ferruginea (4 to 6 feet).
+ Bouvardia Humboldtii (5 feet).
Cistua ladaniferus var. maculatus (2 to 4 feet).
Statice in variety (1 foot).
* Anthyllia Barba-Jovis (4 to 6 feet).
* Reinwardtia trigyna (3 feet).
* Iochroma in variety (8 to 10feet).
Escallonia pulverulenta (8 to 10 feet)
* Jacobinia pauciflora (2 feet).
+ Daedalacanthus nervosus (2 feet).
Cytisus racemosus (2 to 3 feet).
* Duranta Plumieri (6 to 8 feet).
Coronilla glauca (4 to 6 feet).
Cassia artemisioides (4 feet}.
* Malvaviscus mollis (6 feet).
+ Cuphea in variety (2 feet).
* Philsdelphus mexicanus (5 feet).
* Tibouchina splendens (5 feet).
Eacallonia rosea (8 feet).
* Cestrum aurantiacum (6 to 8 feet).
Erica mediterranea (3 feet).
Erica melanthera (3 feet).
* Plumbago capensis (4 feet).
* Trachelospermum jasminoides (3 feet).
Cassia tomentosa (8 feet).
* Eugenia myrtifolia (10 to 15 feet).
Hibiscus in variety (8 to 10 feet).
* Tecoma capensis (8 feet).
* Swainsona galegifolia var. albiflora (6 feet).
* Calothamnus quadrifidus (5 feet).
Group VII. Shrubs bearing ornamental fruits and berries.
The berried and fruit-bearing ornamental trees and shrubs form one of the most interesting classes of decorative plants. Not only do they produce a flower display throughout the spring and summer months but also add flashes of color for long periods in the fall and winter by their clusters of bright berries or fruits. Only those kinds bearing persistent fruit and of a color contrasting well with green foliage are acceptable in California. Such deciduous berried shrubs as have proved themselves adaptable are included in the list.
Those producing berried effects.
Pyracantha coccinea (6 to 8 feet).
Pyracantha crenulata (6 feet).
Pyracantha angustifolia (6 feet).
Cotoneaster Franchetii (4 to ? feet).
Cotoneaeter Dielsiana (4 to 6 feet).
Cotoneaster horizontalis (2 to 3 feet).
Cotoneaster pannosa (6 to 8 feet).
Cotonraster acuminata (6 to 8 feet).
Cotoneaster buxifolia (2 to 3 feet).
Cotoneaster microphylla (2 to 3 feet).
Cotoneaster frigida (8 to 10 feet).
Photinia arbutifolia (8 to 10 feet).
* Myrtus Ugni (4 feet).
* Duranta Plumieri (6 to 8 feet).
Berberís Darwinii (6 to 8 feet).
Ilex Aquifolium (6 to 10 feet).
* Cestrum elegans (6 feet).
* Cestrum aurantiacum (6 to 8 feet).
* Pittosporum rhombifolium (10 to 15 feet).
* Pittosporum viridiflorum (10 feet).
Arbutus Menziesii (10 to 20 feet).
Lycium chínense (6 feet).
Rhamnus californica (8 to 10 feet).
Rhamnus crocea (4 feet).
Nandina domestica (6 feet).
Deciduous.
Elaeagnus umbellata (10 feet).
Symphoricarpos albus (3 leet).
Crataegus cordata (10 feet).
Berberís Thunbergii (3 feet).
Sorbus Aucuparia (10 to 15 feet).
Symphoricarpos vulgaris (3 feet),
Sambucus racemosa (10 feet).
Those producing fruit effects.
Arbutus Unedo (8 feet).
* Eugenia myrtifolia (10 to 15 feet)
+ Eugenia uniflora (6 to 8 feet).
Cornus capitata (10 feet).
* Psdium in variety (4 to 8 feet).
Aucuba japonica (4 feet).
Eriobotrya japonica (10 to 12 feet).
Feijoa Sellowiana (8 feet).
Deciduous.
Evonymus europaea (6 to 8 feet).
Eyonymus alata (6 to 8 feet).
Ribes speciosum (4 feet).
Punica Granatum (6 feet).
Diospyros in variety (6 to 8 feet).
Rosa rugosa (3 feet).
Chaenomeles japonica (6 feet).
Pyrus floribunda (10 to 12 feet)
Group VIII. Shrubs for hedges (California).
Many shrubs of a compact habit may be used as hedge-plants. There is, however, a fairly well-established group of desirable species that lend themselves more easily to training of this kind. Those listed below are used extensively for hedges and have been found to adapt themselves readily to the severe system of trimming and to produce the dense and compact form desired.
Low edgings or boxings (6 to 18 inches).
Berberis Darwinii.
Buxus sempervirens var. suffruticosa.
* Eugenia myrtifolia.
Lonicera nítida.
Veronica buxifolia.
Myrtus communis var. microphylla.
Myrtus Ugni.
Evonymus japonica var. microphylla.
Veronica Traversii.
Veronica carnea.
Cotoneaster microphylla.
Erica mediterranea.
* Diosma ericoides.
* Jacobinia pauciflora.
Cistus ladaniferus var. maculatus.
Small hedges (2 to 6 feet).
Berberis Darwinii.
* Eugenia myrtifolia.
Eugenia apiculata.
Buxus sempervirens.
Taxus baccata.
Lonicera nitida.
Osmanthus Aquifolium var. myrtifolius.
Prunus ilicifolia.
Pittosporum tenuifolium.
Pittosporum eugenioides.
Myrtus communis.
Escallonia rubra.
* Atriplex Breweri.
* Grevillea Thelemanniana.
Ligustrum sinense.
Ligustrum ovalifolium.
Choisya ternata.
Pyracantha crenulata.
* Aberia caffra.
Erica in variety.
Elaeagnus pungens.
Pyracantha angustifolia.
Veronica decussata.
Veronica imperialis.
Veronica elhptica.
Pimelea ferruginea.
Viburnum Tinus var. strictum.
Leptospermum laevigatum.
Evonymus japonica.
Acacia longifolia.
Acacia armata.
Ceanothus spinosus.
* Psidium Cattleianum.
* Lantana , dwarf hybrids.
High hedges (6 to 12 feet).
Pittosporum tenuifolium.
Pittosporum eugonioides.
* Pittosporum undulatum.
Pittosporum crassifolium.
Prunus ilicifolia var. integrifolia.
Ligustrum ovalifolium.
Ligustrum japonicum.
Prunus carolíniana.
Escallonia pulverulenta.
Cupressus macrocarpa.
Hakea suaveolens.
Hakea saligna.
Acacia longifolia.
Acacia melanoxylon.
Acacia retinodes.
Acacia verticillata.
Pyracantha coccinea.
Spartium junceum.
Group IX. Shrubs for ground-covers (California).
There are often banks and slopes where a lawn would be too expensive to maintain and unless covered with green foliage would remain unsightly. Other situations, especially under and between trees and large shrubs, would be materially improved if the ground-surface were covered with woody vines and trailing shrubs. It will be necessary to prune out the leader or upright stem of many of these shrubs to encourage their spreading or horizontal growth.
Juniperus chinensís var. procumbens (3 feet).
Juniperus Sabina var. tamariscifolia (3 feet).
Jasminum primulinum (6 feet).
Sollya heterophylla (3 feet)
Hypericum calycinum (1 foot),
Hypericum Moserianum (3 feet).
*Philadelphus mexicanus (5 feet).
Trachelospermum jasminoides (3 feet).
Cuphea micropetala (3 feet).
*Cuphea ignea (5 feet).
Clianthus puniceus (3 to 6 feet).
*Streptosolen Jamesonii (3 to ? feet).
*Plumbago capensis (4 feet).
Myrtus communis (3 to 5 feet).
Cotoneaster microphylla (2 to 3 feet).
Cotoneaster horizontalis (2 to 3 feet).
*Coprosma Baueri (6 feet).
Evonymus radicans (2 feet).
Fuchsia Riccartonii (6 feet).
Leptospermum laevigatum (6 to 10 feet).
*Tecoma capensis (8 feet).
*Reinwardtia trigyna (4 feet).
*Capparia spinosa (3 feet).
*Swainsona galegifolia var. albiflora (6 feet).
Teucrium fruticans (6 feet).
Coronilla glauca (4 to 6 feet).
Melaleuca decussata (5 feet).
Cistus ladaniferus var. maculatus (2 to 4 feet).
Evonymus japonica var. viridi-variegata (4 feet).
Lantana Sellowiana (4 feet).
*Lantana Camara (4 to 6 feet).
Chorizema ilicifolium (5 feet).
*Melianthus major (4 feet).
*Buddleia madagascariensis (6 to 10 feet).
Jasminum humile (6 feet).
*Solanum Rantonnetii (6 feet).
Artemisia arborescens (5 feet).
Pentstemon cordifolius (5 feet).
*Heliotropium in variety (3 feet).
Pittosporum heterophyllum (3 feet).
*Fuchsia fulgens (5 feet).
*Fuchsia corymbiflora (6 feet).
Group X. Shrubs for quick effects (California).
Many shrubs are of rapid growth and if given heat and moisture will produce very quick effects. They are. therefore, especially suitable for screens, barriers, and mature effects in recently created gardens.
Myoporum laetum (8 to 12 feet).
Albizzia lophantha (10 feet).
Leptospermum laevigatum (6 to 10 feet).
Acacia in variety (6 to 20 feet).
Melaleuca in variety Í6 to 10 feet).
Spartium junceum (6 to 8 feet).
Casuarina in variety (10 to 25 feet).
Tithonia diversifolia (8 to 10 feet).
*Wigandia caracasana (8 to 10 feet).
*Lantana in variety (4 to 6 feet).
Cytisus in variety (6 to 8 feet).
*Iochroma in variety (8 to 10 feet).
*Cassia in variety (4 to 10 feet).
Buddleia in variety (6 to 8 feet).
*Cestrum in variety (6 to 8 feet).
*Plumbago capensis (4 feet).
Solanum Warscewiczii (8 feet).
Dodonaea cuneata (6 to 8 feet).
Bocconia frutescens (8 feet).
*Pittosporum undulatum (10 to 15 feet).
Pittosporum eugenioides (10 to 15 feet).
Pittosporum crassifolium (10 to 15 feet).
*Coprosma Baueri (0 feet).
Veronica in variety (2 to 6 feet).
*Sparmannia africana (8 feet).
Coronilla glauca (4 to 6 feet).
*Anthyllia Barba-Jovis (4 to 6 feet).
*Agonis flexuosa (8 to 10 feet).
Fataia japonica (6 feet).
Ligustrum ovalifolium (6 to 8 feet).
Escallonia in variety (6 to 10 feet).
Pimelea ferruginca (4 to 6 feet).
Cuphea micropetals (2 feet).
*Streptosolen Jamesonii (3 to 6 feet).
*Grevillea Thelemanniana (4 feet).
*Atriplex Breweri (6 feet).
*Melianthus major (4 feet).
Parkinsonia aculeata (8 to 10 feet).
Ceanothus arborea (8 feet).
Muehlenbeckia platyclada (6 feet).
Clerodendron in variety (8 feet).
*Abutilon in variety (8 feet).
Carica quercifolta (6 to 8 feet).
Agonis flexuosa, Schau. A tall shrub or tree from Austral.: lvs. lanceolate, smooth, dark green, the margins tinged with purple: fl.-heads white, axillary, surrounded by broad bracts; stamens long, numerous, white.Group XI Especially choice and neat shrubs.
Those shrubs which are free-flowering, compact, and possess interesting and well-arranged foliage, are much in demand for the more intensively developed parts of a garden. They are particularly suitable for use on small home grounds; in formal gardens, and around the base-line of buildings.
Erica in variety (4 feet).
Dioema ericoides (3 feet).
*Eugenia myrtifolia (10 to 15 feet).
Choisya ternata (6 feet).
Daphne odora (3 feet).
*Grevillea Thelemanniana (4 feet).
Leptospermum scoparium var. Nichollii (4 to 6 feet).
Lonicera nitida (4 to ? feet).
Berberís Darwinii (6 to 8 feet).
Abelia grandiflora (6 feet).
Pimelea ferruginea (4 to 6 feet).
*Myrtus Ugni (4 feet).
Templetonia retusa (3 feet).
Asystasia bella (3 feet).
Sollya heterophylla (3 feet).
*Trachelospermum jasminoides (3 feet).
*Philadelphus mexicanus (5 feet).
Michelia fuscata (6 feet).
Heterocentron roseum (1 foot).
Daedalacanthus nervosus (2 feet).
Cassia artemisioides (4 feet).
Eugenia spiculata (8 feet).
Myrtus communis var. microphylla (2 to 3 feet).
*Coprosma Baueri (6 feet).
*Cneorum tricoecon (3 feet).
Cotoncaster horizontalis (2 to 3 feet).
Cotoneaster Franchetii (4 to 6 feet).
Cotoneaster microphylla (2 to 3 feet).
Ligustrum coriaceum (3 to 6 foet).
Ligustrum sinense (6 feet).
*Genista monosperma (6 to 8 feet).
Rhodorhiza florida (0 feet).
Aucuba japonica (4 feet).
Azara microphylla (8 feet).
Buxus in variety (2 to 8 feet).
Camellia japonica (8 feet).
Cytisus racemosus (2 to 3 feet).
Evonymus japonica var. aureo-marginata (6 to 8 feet).
Evonymus japonica var. viridi-variegata (4 feet).
Mahonia japonica (4 feet).
Melaleuca decussata (5 feet).
Nandina domestica (6 feet).
Osmanthus Aquifolium (4 feet).
Veronica in variety (2 to 6 feet).
*Carissa grandiflora (4 feet).
Hardenbergia monophylla Í5 feet).
Jasminum primulinum (6 feet).
Metrosideros lucida (6 feet).
*Tibouchina splendens (5 feet).
Salvia Seseei (6 feet).
*Fuchsia corymbiflora (6 feet).
*Fuchsia fulgens (4 feet).
*Fuchsia arborescens (6 feet).
*Duranta Plumieri var. alba (3 to 6 feet).
Cnearum tricoccon. Linn., the spurge olive, is a native of 8. Eu.: smooth, evergreen, 1 or 2 ft. high: lvs. narrow, entire, obtuse: fls. axillary; pedicels not adnate to the bracts. Cneorum is one of the Simarubaceae, or by recent authorities made the sole representative of
the family Cneoraceae.Group XII. Ornamental native shrubs.While the native shrubs of California are not, in many cases, so effective and attractive for landscape purposes as most of the exotic material used, there is a growing interest in their ornamental qualities. They may be employed extensively to give character to the extremely naturalistic home grounds and to the typically Californian garden. Only the more ornamental species in general cultivation are listed below.
Carpenteria californica (0 to 8 feet).
Ceanothus thyrsiflorus (8 feet).
Photinia arbutifolia (8 to 10 feet).
Lyonothamnus floribundus var. aeplenifolius (15 to 20 feet).
Prunus ilicifolia var. integrifolia (10 to 15 feet).
Arbutus Menziesii (10 to 20 feet).
Ceanothus arboreus (8 to 10 feet).
Ceanothus spinoeus (6 to 8 feet).
Parkinsonia aculeata (8 to 10 feet).
Garrya Fremontii (6 feet).
Romneya Coulteri (6 feet).
Ribee speciosum (4 feet).
Vaccinium ovatum (3 feet).
Mahonia Aquifolium (4 feet).
Rhamnus californica (8 to 10 feet).
Rhus integrifolia (6 feet).
Rhus ovata (6 to 8 feet).
Rhamnus crocea var. ilicifolia (4 feet).
Umbellularia californica (15 to 30 feet).
Cercocarpus parvifolius (8 feet).
*Gaultheria Shallon (2 feet).
Arctostaphylos in variety (6 feet).
Fremontia californica (8 feet).
Calycanthus occidentalis (6 feet).
Dendromecon rigidum (6 feet).
* Lavatera assurgentiflora (6 feet).
*Mimulus glutinosus (4 feet).
John Wm. Gregg.
R. T. Stevens.
Vines for California.
In countries where there is a maximum of sunlight, vines become a most important class of plant-material. The many vines used in California are roughly divided into classes according to the climatic divisions of the state. Tropical and semi-tropical evergreen vines find most favor in southern California, where gorgeous coloring and luxurious growth appear most in harmony with the landscape; while the half-hardy evergreens and the choicest deciduous vines are mostsuitable for use along the central California coast. On the other hand, the vine which loses its foliage in winter finds the greatest favor in the interior sections of the state, although such few evergreens as withstand several degrees of frost are often employed for decorative purposes. When very quick effects are wanted, the annual vine is often used.All vines except those clinging to rough surfaces need substantial support, while most vines require a certain amount of thinning and training. The tendency is to neglect the plant after it is once established and allow it to form thick unsightly masses of stems near the top of the support, thereby destroying such decorative beauty as the vine may possess. Vines should not be "headed back" or heavily pruned unless the plant is to be renovated, as a coarse rank growth is encouraged. If possible, choose strong stems as leaders and train in a fan-like manner so as finally to cover the desired area. Spring-flowering vines should be pruned soon after blooming, while summer- and fall-flowering vines may be thinned in the spring. The foliage of evergreen vines may be best reauced by careful selective thinning immediately after a blooming period. Always begin to train a vine as soon as possible; do not wait for it to begin to climb.
No climbing roses have been included in the following lists, as it is felt that they should be considered as a separate class of plant-material. Such vines as are not marked with D" or "A" are evergreen, while those without an "o" or "x" are hardy. D—deciduous; A-annual; o—not resistant to frost; x—resistant to 10° to 12° of frost.
1. Vines which cover objects and surfaces densely.
The vines in this list have a tendency to cover their supports entirely, making a dense screen and thereby destroying architectural lines.
D-—Actinidia chinensis. x—Pandorea australis.
D—Akebia quinata. o—Pandorea Brycei.
x—Buddleia madagascariensis. x—Pandorea jasminoidea.
D—Campeis chinensis. x—Pandorea jasminoides var.
D—Campeis radicans. alba.
Caraioapermum hirsutum. D—Parthenocissus quinque
D—Clematis montana. folia.
D—Clematis paniculata. D—Parthenocissus tricuspi
x—Dolichos Lignosus. data.
Ficua pumila. Passiflora caerulea.
Gelsemium sempervirens. Passiflora caerulea var. alba.
Hedera helix. O- Passiflora edulis.
Hedera helix var. chryso x—Passiflora manicata.
carpa, Passiflora mollissima.
A—Humulus japonious. x—Pelargonium peltatum.
D—Ipomoea Learii. D—Periploca graeca.
x—Jasminum gracillimum. x—Pithecoctenium muricatum.
x—Jasminum grandiflorum. x—Plumbago capensis.
x—.Jasminum officinale. x—Plumbago capensis var.
Kennedya rubicunda. alba.
Lantana Sellowiana. D—Pueraria hirsuta.
Lonicera japonica var. Hal x—Salpichroa rhomboides.
liana. D—Senecio mikanioides.
Lonicera Periclymenum o—Solandra guttata.
var. belgica. x—Serjania fuscifolia.
Melothria punctata. x—Steptosolen Jamesonii.
Muehlenbeckia complexa. x—Tecoma capensis.
A—Tropaeolum majus. D—Wisteria chinensis.
x—Vitis (Cissus) antarctica D—Wisteria multijuga.
x—Vitia (Cissua) capensis.
2. Vines producing light open tracery.
Vines to be ornamental should decorate and not entirely cover. Their chief purpose is to soften and partially break hard architectural lines. It is the contrast between foliage and background which produces decorative effect. Vines of this section are especially good for columns, walls, and frames.
o—Abrus precatorius. x—Hoya oarnoea.
D—Antigonon leptopus. x—Jasminum asoricum.
o—Ariatolochia triangularis. x—Jasminum nitidum.
x—Asparagua asparagoides. D—Jasminum nudiflorum.
x—Asparagus plumosus. x—Linaria Cymbalaria.
x—Aaparagua plumosus var. D—Mandevilla suaveolens.
comorensis. Maurandia Barclaians.
Bignonia Unguia-cati (B. x—Maurandia Lophospermum.
Tweediana). a—Momordica Balsamina.
D—Clematis Henryi. x—Pithecoctenium cynan
D—Clematis Jackmanii. choides.
D—Clematis montana var. x—Pithecoctenium muricatum.
rubena. x—Pyrostegia venuata.
x—Cobaea scandens. Solanum jasminoidea.
x—Dioclea glycinoides. x—Solanum Seaforthianum.
o—Dipladenia hybrids. Sollya heterophylla.
a—Eccremocarpus acaber. o—Stigmaphyllon ciliatum.
x—Hardenbergia Comptoni o—Stigmaphyllon littorale.
ana. o—Thunbergia grandiflora.
Hedera helix. x—Tracheloapermum jasmin
o—Hidalgoa Wercklei. oides.
3. Vines as ground-covers on slopes, embankments, and under trees.
Vines require little care, hold the soil and make a permanent effect in those situations where the soil is too poor or too shady to maintain a satisfactory lawn.
Bignonia Unguis-cati. Mesembryanthemum
x—Duchesnea indica. cordifolium.
Fragaria californica. Mesembryanthemum
Fragaria chiloensia. roseum.
Hedera helix* Muehlenbeckia chilensis.
a—Humulus japonicus. Muehlenbeckia complex
x—Jaaminum primulinum. x—Pelargonium peltatum.
x—Lantana Camara. D—Senecio mikanioides.
Lantana Sellowiana. Sollya heterophylla.
Lippia caneacens. A—Tropraeolum majus.
Lonicera japonica var. Hal- Vinca major.
liana, Vinca minor,
x—Lotus Bertholetii. x—Vitis (Cissus) capensis.
4. Vines for stone, plaster, and brick surfaces.
Because of their various ways of clinging to rough surfaces, these vines need no support. They should not be grown on wood surfaces which are to be painted.
D—Bignonia capreolata. Hedera helix.
Bignonia Unguiscati (B. Hedera helix var. chry
Tweediana). socarpa.
x—Cisaua striata. D—Parthenocissus quinque
x—Clytostoma purpureum. folia.
D—Decumaria barbara. D—Parthenocissus quinque
Evonymus radicana. folia var. Engelmannii.
Evonymus radicana var. D—Parthenocissus tricuspi
roseo-marginata. data.
Ficus pumila. x—Phaedranthus buccina
Ficus pumila var. minima. torius.
5. Vines for quick effects.
Useful to obtain mature effects in gardens. Rapid- growing deciduous vines are especially desirable for porches, pergolas, and arbors located in the large interior valleys.
D—Actinidia chinensis. D—Ipomosa setosa.
D—Ariatolochia macrophylla x—Jaaminum primulinum.
(A. Sipho). x—Lantana Camara.
Bignonia Unguis-cati (B. Lathyrus aplendena.
Tweediana). Lonicera japonica var.
D—Bousaingaultia basselloides. Halliana.
x—Buddleia madagaacariensia. Maurandia Barclaiana.
D—Campaia radicana. Molothria punctata.
D—Clematia montana. x—Pandorea auatralia.
D—Clematia paniculata. o—Pandorea Brycei.
Cobnea scandena. Passiflora cnrulea.
x—Dolichoa Ugnoaua. Pay.^iflora ca-ruloa var.
x—Dolichoa lignoaus var. alba. alba.
A—Humulua Japonicua. o—Passiflora edulia.
D—Humulua lupulua. x—Passiflora manicata.
D—Ipomcca Learii. x—Paasiflora mollissima.
o—Passiflora racemosa (P. princeps).
x—Passiflora tubiflora.
x—Pelargonium peltatum.
x—Phaedranthus buccinatorius.
D—Phaseolus Caracalla.
x—Philadelphus mexicanus.
D—Pueraria hirsuta.
x—Salpichroa rhomboidea.
D—Sechium edule.
D—Senecio mikanioides.
Solanum jasminoides.
D—Solanum Wendlandii.
o—Solandra guttata.
x—Tecoma capensis.
D—Thunbergia alata.
o—Thunbergia coccinea.
A—Tropaeolum majus.
6. Free-flowering vines for California.
Many vines produce only foliage effects or bloom but once a year. The vines in this list bear flowers more or less continuously. They are especially suitable for arbors and trellises in the flower-garden.
o—Allamanda cathartics var. Lonicera sempervirens.
Hendersonii. D-Mandevillasuaveolens.
D—Antigonon leptopus. Manettia bicolor.
o—Beaumontia grandiflora. x—Pandorea jasminoides.
x—Bougainvillea brasiliensia. x—Pandorea jasminoides var. alba,
x—Bougainvillea glabra. x—Passiflora militaris.
x—Bougainvillea spectabilis o—Passiflora racemosa(P. princeps).
var. lateritia. x—Pelargonium peltatum.
Cardiospermum hirsutum. x—Phaedranthus buccina-torius.
x—Chorisema ilicifolium. D—Phaseolus Caracalla.
A—Clitoria Ternatea. x—Pithecoctenium murica-tum.
x—Clytostoma callistegioides. x—Plumbago capensis,
Cobaea scandens. x—Pyrostegia venusta.
x-Dolichos lignosus o—Schubertia grandiflora.
x—Dolichos lignosus.var. alba. o—Solandra grandiflora.
x—Hardenbergia Comptoniana Solanum jasminoides.
x-Jasminum asoricum. x—Solanum Seaforthianum.
x—Jasminum floribundum. D—Solanum Wendlandii.
x—Jasminum gracillimum. x—Sollya heterophylla.
x—Jasminum grandiflorum. o—Stephanotis floribunda.
x—Jasminum, Maid of Orleans, x—Stigmaphyllon ciliatum.
o—Jasminum nitidum. x—Swainsona galegifolia var.
x—Jasminum simplicifolium, albiflora.
Jasminum Sambac, Grand Duke. x—Tecoma capenais.
x—Lantana Camara. o—Thunbergia grandiflora.
Lantana Sellowiana. x—Trachelospermum jasminoides.
Lathyrus latifolius var. albus D—Tropaeolum majus.
Lathyrus splendens.
Lonicera japonica var. Halliana.
7. Vines somewhat resistant to shade.
Good for courts, north sides of buildings, under trees and on shady slopes.
x—Asparagus asparagoides. D—Parthenocissus quinque-folia.
x—Asparagus plumosus. D—Parthenocissus tricuspi-data.
x—Chorisema ilicifolium. o—Quisqualis indica.
x—Clianthus puniceus. D—Senecio mikanioides.
x—Clytostoma callistegioides. x—Solanum Seaforthianum.
Ficus pumila, Sollya heterophylla.
Ficus pumila var. minima. o—Stephanotis floribunda.
Hedera colchica (H. Raeg- neriana).o—Thunbergia laurifolia.
Hedera helix. x—Tracheloapermum jasminoidea.
x—Hoya carnosa. Tradescantia virginiana.
x—Jasminum asoricum. Vinca major,
x—Jasminum gracillimum. Vinca minor.
x—Jasminum primulinum. x—Vitis (Cissus) antarctica.
x—Linaria Cymbalaria. x—Vitis (Cissus) capensis.
lippa canescens. x—Vitis (Cissus) rhombifolia.
D—Micromeria Chamissonis.
x—Pandorea australis.
8. Vines somewhat resistant to drought.
Vines are largely natives of cool moist forest floors where the soil is deep and loose, but the
following will endure a certain amount of drought and hard clay soils.
Bignonia Unguis-cati (B.Tweediana). Lonicera Periclymenum
x—Bougainvilleas. var. belgica.
x—Buddleia madagascariensis. Mesembryanthemum roseum.
x—Dioclea glycinoides. Muehlenbeckia complexa.
x—Dolichoe lignosus. x—Pandorea auatralia.
Evonymus radicans. Pandorea jasminoides.
Ficus pumila. x-Passiflora manicata.
Hedera helix. x-Passiflora mollissima.
x—Jasminum primulinum. x—Pelargonium peltatum.
x—Lantana Camara. D—Periploca graeca.
x—Lantana Sellowiana. x—Plumbago capensis.
Lathyrus latifolius. x—Salpichroa rhomboidea.
Lathyrus splendens. D—Senecio mikanioides.
Lippia canescens. x—Serjania fuscifolia.
Lonicera japonica var. Solanum jasminoidea.
Halliana, Sollya heterophylla.
x—StreptoSolen Jamesonii. Vinca major.
x—Tecoma capensis. Vinca major, variegated.
D—Tropaeolum majus. Vinca minor.
9. Vines for pergolas and arbors.
For this purpose vines should not be allowed to make too heavy top growth and they should be so
rained that a certain amount of their foliage is pendent.
D—Antigonon leptopus. Lonicera japonica var. Hal-liana.
D—Aristolochia macrophylla D—Mandevilla suaveolena.
(A. Sipho). Muehlenbeckia complexa.
o—Aristolochia elegans. x—Pandorea jasminoides.
Bignonia Unguis-cati (B.Tweediana). x—Pandorea jasminoides var.alba.
x—Bougainvillea brasiliensis. o—Pandorea Brycei.
o—Beaumontia grandiflora. D—Periploca graeca (Silk Vine),
D—Clematis montana. x—Phaedranthus buccinato-rius.
D—Clematis paniculata. x—Philadelphus mexicanus.
x—Clytostoma purpureum. x—Pithecoctenium cynan-choides.
x—Dioclea glycinoides. x—Pithecoctenium muricatum.
Gelsemium sempervirens. o—Solandra guttata.
x—Hardenbergia Comptoniana. Solanum jasminoides.
Hedera colchica (H. Raeg- neriana). x—Solanum Seaforthianum.
Hedera helix. D—Solanum Wendlandii.
Hedera helix var. chry- socarpa. x—Stauntonia hexaphylla.
o—Hidalgoa Wercklei. o—Stephanotis floribunda.
A—Humulus japonicus. o—Stigmaphyllon ciliatum.
x—Jasminum asoricum. x—Tecoma capensis.
x—Jasminum floribundum. o—Thunbergia grandiflora.
x—Jasminum grandiflorum. x—Vitis (Cissus) capensis.
x—Jasminum nitidum. x—Vitis Romanetii.
x—Jasminum officinale. D—Wisteria chinensis.
x—Jasminum primulinum. D—Wisteria multijuga
x—Jasminum rigidum (J. li-gustrifolium) D-Wisteria multijuga var.alba.
x—Lonicera Hildebrandiana.
10. Foliage vines for California.
Many vines are especially ornamental because of their foliage effects. Those with smooth bright
green closely arranged leaves are most desirable.
D—Actinidia chinensis. x—Pandorea jasminoides.
D—Ampelopsis arborea. o—Passiflora edulis.
D—Aristolochia macrophylla o—Passiflora laurifolia.
(A. Sipho). o—Passiflora ligularia.
x—Asparagus asparagoidea. x—Phaedranthus buccina-torius.
x—Ciaaus striata. D—Pueraria hirauts.
x—Clytostoma callistegioides. D—Senecio mikanioides.
Cobaea scandcns. x—Serjania fuscifolia.
x—Dolichos lignosus. x—Solanum Seaforthianum.
Evonymus radicans. D—Solanum Wendlandii.
Ficus pumila. x—Stauntonia hexaphylla.
Gelsemium sempervirens. o—Thunbergia grandiflora.
A—Humulus japonicus. x—Vitis (Cissus) antarctica.
x—Jasminum azoricum x—Vitis (Cissus) capensis.
x—Jasminum gracillimum. x—Vitis (Cissus) hypoglauca.
x—Jasminum rigidum (J. ligus- x—Vitis (Cissus) rhombifolia.
trifolium).
x—Pandorea australis.
Millettia mega-sperma, Benth., the "evergreen wisteria" from Austral.is a promising plant in
California: woody climber:lfts.7-13, obovate or obovate-oblong: fls. purple, in racemes 4—6 in.
long which comprise a terminal panicle.
John Wm Gregg.
R. T. Stevens.
Katherine D. Jones.
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