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Rhubarb. A garden vegetable, perennial, grown for the thick acid
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leaf-stalks which are used in spring for sauces and pies: Rheum
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Rhaponticum, which see, page 2927.
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Rhubarb, known also as pie-plant, is a hardy plant and will withstand
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considerable neglect, yet, like most cultivated vegetables, it responds
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readily to proper care and good treatment. The large fleshy leaf-stems
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desired in culinary use are produced in part by the great store of
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plant-food held in reserve by the many big roots. Everything should be
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done to increase this supply of reserve food. Tillage and fertilizing,
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therefore, are fundamentals. In the choosing of a site a southern
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exposure is preferred, with sufficient slope to give good drainage.
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Plow the ground 6 to 8 inches deep, draw furrows 5 feet apart, set the
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plants 3 feet apart, with the buds 1 inch below the level of the
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ground. In home grounds, spade or trench the land deep, and set about 4
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feet apart each way; or if in only one row or line with plenty of room
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on either side, the plants may go 3 feet or even as close as 2 1/2 feet
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if they are well manured and often renewed. If the soil lacks in
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fertility, mix compost with the earth that is placed about the roots;
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never put fresh manure next to the roots. As soon after planting as
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possible, start the cultivator, and give a thorough stirring at
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intervals of six to eight days up to the middle or last of August.
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After the ground is frozen, cover the rows 3 to 4 inches deep with
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manure that is as free as possible from weed and grass seed. As early
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in the spring as the ground can be worked to advantage, start the
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cultivator and work the manure into the soil. Each alternate season the
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surface of the soil should have a good dressing of manure. For garden
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culture, a similar practice should be undertaken with the hoe or other
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hand tools.
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In field culture, the third or fourth year after planting the hills
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should be divided. Remove the earth from one side of the hill and with
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a sharp spade cut through the crown, leaving three or four buds in the
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hill undisturbed. This work should be done in the fall or early in the
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spring. In garden culture, the teds should be similarly renewed, at
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least as often as every four or five years, but more pains may be taken
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in dividing the plants. The clumps of roots grow so large, and have so
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many eyes, that the stalks soon become more numerous than desirable,
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and run down in size. Take up the entire roots and cut them in pieces,
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leaving only one strong eye to the piece, and plant the pieces in a
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newly prepared bed (or even in the old one if properly enriched and
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prepared)4 feet apart each way as before.
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Seed-stems are produced freely the entire season These should be
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promptly pulled up, unless seed is wanted. The growth of these stems
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and the production of seed tend to lessen the vitality of the plant and
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to reduce the yield.
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Propagation of rhubarb is commonly by division the roots, and this is
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the only method by which a par-ticular type can be increased.
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Propagation from seed, however, sometimes proves satisfactory, and
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always interesting as the seedlings vary greatly. The seed germinates
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easily, and if started early the plant become fairly large and strong
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the same season. The may be started in any good clean garden soil. Sow
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seed in early spring, in rows a foot apart and not over an inch deep.
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Thin the plants promptly to stand a few inches apart in the rows, and
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give the same thorough tillage allowed to other garden crops. In the
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following fall or spring take the seedlings up, and set them in the
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well-prepared per-manent patch, not less than 4 feet apart each way,
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and till frequently the entire season. In spring of the next year the
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stalks may be pulled freely.
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From ten to twenty good plants should supply the needs of the usual
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family, and probably with something to spare for the neighbors.
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Sometimes an early supply is secured by placing a bottomless barrel or
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box over the plant and piling warm horse-manure about it. If the
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barrel, keg, or box is not too broad, the petioles will make a straight
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upright growth and will be partially blanched and very tender. Victoria
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and Linnaeus are the leading varieties.          L. H. B.
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Forcing of rhubarb.
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In the winter and early spring months, the forcing of rhubarb in the
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vicinity of many city markets is a profitable industry. The plant may
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be forced either in the field where the roots were grown or lifted and
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placed in hotbeds, under greenhouse benches or in cellars. The bulk of
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the rhubarb forced for market and sold during the winter months is
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grown in cheap structures placed over the plants in the field. These
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houses may be of the lean-to type, although they are more commonly
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even-span post and rafter construction, the roof being covered with
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hotbed sash which is not needed for other purposes at the time. The
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side walls are 4 to 5 feet high, made of rough boards and covered with
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cheap building-paper. The even-span houses are mostly 24 to 36 feet
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wide and the lean-to house half that width. Heat is usually applied in
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an overhead system, steam being the most popular, although late in the
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season the sun is depended upon to supply the required amount of heat.
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When forced in the field in limited quantities, coldframes are often
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used, the outside walls being well banked with hot manure and the
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surface of the ground within the frames covered with 3 to 6 inches of
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the same material.
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Beds intended for early spring forcing should be thoroughly cultivated
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in the fall and an application made of high-grade commercial fertilizer
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of 800 to 1,000 pounds to the acre. When growth starts, a dressing of
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nitrate of soda at the rate of one-half pound to a crown should be
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given. In field forcing, the moisture of the soil is usually sufficient
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so that no water is applied. When it is the intention to use a field
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for forcing for several years, the plants are usually set 2 by 3 feet
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and the land fertilized heavily each spring with a compost, one made
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from cow- and hog-manure being preferred. The sash are placed upon the
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first houses as soon as the roots have been frozen, five to seven weeks
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being necessary to bring the plants to maturity.
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In field forcing, the cost of production is often greatly reduced by
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growing spinach or dandelion between the
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rows, the price obtained for these fillers usually being sufficient to
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pay labor and maintenance costs. The stalks are usually pulled twice,
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returning to the grower from $1 to $2 a sash, depending upon the season
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when placed upon the market.
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Roots for forcing in the dark should be healthy and vigorous; the
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larger the roots the more satisfactory the results as a general rule.
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Crowns three to five years of age are mostly used, although
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satisfactory results are often obtained from one-year-old plants which
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have been grown on very rich land and have made an unchecked growth
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during the season. The roots should be dug early in the fall before the
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ground freezes and allowed to remain exposed to the weather until they
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are frozen solid when they should either be removed to a shed or
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covered with litter in the field to prevent alternate freezing and
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thawing. Thorough freezing is necessary, whatever the method of
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forcing, if the best resulte are to be obtained. With one-year roots
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very satisfactory results are sometimes secured if the roots are
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thoroughly dried before forcing. Anesthetics have been tried as a
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substitute for freezing but with unsatisfactory results. When used upon
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frozen roots they stimulate growth, resulting in the production of
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earlier and larger stalks with greater total weight of product. If the
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greatest benefit is to be derived from the anesthetic, it must be used
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in the early part of the resting-period. The most satisfactory results
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have been obtained by the use of 10 cubic centimeters of sulfuric ether
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to a cubic foot of space, exposing the roots to the fumes for
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forty-eight hours. Well-grown two-year-old roots seem to respond to
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this treatment in the most satisfactory way.
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As soon as the roots are placed in position, whether it be under the
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greenhouse benches or in the cellar, all spaces should be filled with
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soil or ashes to prevent evaporation. If placed on a concrete floor, 2
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or 3 inches of soil should be placed under the roots and sufficient
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material should be added completely to cover the roots. The bed as soon
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as completed should be thoroughly watered, the plants kept supplied
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with an abundance of moisture, which will necessitate water being
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applied about once a week. Care should be taken to guard against
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over-watering as this will result in the production of light-colored
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stalks, lacking in flavor and texture. In order to obtain the most
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attractive product, rhubarb should not be forced in full light or total
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darkness. If grown in diffused light, the development of the leaf-blade
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is very slight and the color of the stalk, instead of being green, is a
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beautiful dark cherry-red, giving to the product a very attractive
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appearance. In quality the product is superior to that forced in light,
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being more tender, less acid, with a skin so thin and tender as to make
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it unnecessary to peel the stalks. The temperature may range from 45°
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to 75°, the lower the temperature the greater the yield and higher the
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quality of the product. The time required for bringing a crop to
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maturity in darkness is practically the same as that required for
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forcing in the field.
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Local market demands to a certain extent govern the method which is
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used in growing this crop for the winter market. When grown by any
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method which requires the lifting of the roots, it must be remembered
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that they are worthless after having produced a crop. Therefore, this
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method cannot be practised with as great profit upon expensive land as
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can the method of field forcing or when roots were used for forcing
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which otherwise would be destroyed. Rhubarb-forcing in house cellars
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should receive more attention, as it adds at slight expense a pleasing
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vegetable to the winter dietary.
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Whatever the method practised, success will be attained only when
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healthy well-developed roots, which have been allowed to freeze, are
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used.                                                       
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G. E. Adams.
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}}
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{{dablink|For other uses see [[Rhubarb (disambiguation)]]}}
 
{{dablink|For other uses see [[Rhubarb (disambiguation)]]}}
 
{{Taxobox
 
{{Taxobox
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