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Created page with '{{SPlantbox |genus=Maranta |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |jumpin=This is the plant information box - for information on light; water; zones; height; etc. If it is mostly emp…'
{{SPlantbox
|genus=Maranta
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|jumpin=This is the plant information box - for information on light; water; zones; height; etc. If it is mostly empty you can help grow this page by clicking on the edit tab and filling in the blanks!
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Maranta (B. Maranta, Venetian Physician and botanist, died 1754). Marantaceae. Greenhouse pot plants, grown mostly for the foliage.
Perennial herbs, tall or low, erect or prostrate, the flowering part more or less branched: lvs. petiolate, radical and cauline: fls. racemose or paniculate; sepals 3, equal, lanceolate or lance-oblong; corolla more or less tubular, usually enlarged or gibbous at base, the 3 lobes subequal and somewhat hooded at the apex; 2 exterior staminodia petal-like, usually obovate, showy; ovary 1-celled by abortion.—Species 23 in the Monograph by Schumann (hft. 11, Das Pflanzenreich, 1902), in Trop. Amer. Most of the plants cult, as marantas are calatheas; and the true marantas are treated the same as those plants. These plants are often named before the flowers are known, and some of the following plants may belong to the genus Calathea. The genus yields arrow-root (p. 397).
The culture of maranta is that of calathea, which is detailed in Vol. II, p. 619; but the directions may be reviewed from another experience. The marantas are grown for the handsome markings of the leaves, and for making complete foliage groups.—They are increased by division of the crowns, which may be accomplished just as they are starting into growth in the spring. Large plants are the best to use for cutting up, as they have strong crowns, and under proper treatment will form a plant more quickly. The loam should be washed from the root with a hose under gentle pressure. This gives an opportunity to see where is the best place in the crown for division. A sharp knife must be used to give a clean cut, which will heal more quickly. It is also a good plan to cover the cut part with powdered charcoal, which is a great help in the prevention of decay. The cut-up pieces may be potted in equal parts of the fiber of loam, flaky leaves, and sharp sand; add also a small part of broken charcoal. The pot should be big enough to admit the roots without breaking or crushing them and they must be supplied with good drainage.—Marantas like abundance of moisture at their roots. The water, however, must pass freely through them, otherwise they soon get into a sour stagnant condition. Divided plants should be kept in a temperature of not less than 65° and the house must be kept in a humid condition by light syringing, and dampening between the pots on the bench, and in the paths. Change the air in the house by ventilating, as soon as the thermometer reaches 75°. Shade the plants from early spring until late autumn, as the bright sunshine will soon destroy the foliage and make the plants unsightly. Repotting is not necessary until the following spring.—In December, January and February, marantas may be allowed to get quite dry at the roots before watering. By this treatment they seem to start into a more vigorous growth, when they get a shift into a larger pot early in March. Established plants may be potted in a rather rough soil consisting of the fiber of loam two parts, flaky leaves one part, a small part of good sharp sand and another part of dried cow-manure. Add a sixth part of broken-up charcoal to the whole compost. Pot moderately firm, by pressure of the hands, and raise the crown a little in the center. In summer, admit plenty of air during the day, and leave a crack of top air on all night. This insures a strong healthy growth, and the plants may be used for decorative work, without suffering any damage. Tropical plants have been brought into disrepute by what may be termed the sweat-box treatment, which is entirely unnecessary. A soft flabby growth is the result of such usage. When in active growth, marantas may be watered with manure-water. Cow-manure water and soft-coal soot agree well with them. An ordinary handful to a 2½-gallon watering-pot will be found to be sufficient. Apply after watering twice with clean water. If marantas are well syringed under the leaves, insect pests are not troublesome. If they obtain a foothold, sponge the leaves with some reliable insecticide.
}}
==Cultivation==
===Propagation===
===Pests and diseases===
==Varieties==
==Gallery==
<gallery perrow=5>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>
==References==
<references/>
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963
<!--- xxxxx *Flora: The Gardener's Bible, by Sean Hogan. Global Book Publishing, 2003. ISBN 0881925381 -->
<!--- xxxxx *American Horticultural Society: A-Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants, by Christopher Brickell, Judith D. Zuk. 1996. ISBN 0789419432 -->
<!--- xxxxx *Sunset National Garden Book. Sunset Books, Inc., 1997. ISBN 0376038608 -->
==External links==
*{{wplink}}
{{stub}}
__NOTOC__
|genus=Maranta
|Min ht metric=cm
|Temp Metric=°F
|jumpin=This is the plant information box - for information on light; water; zones; height; etc. If it is mostly empty you can help grow this page by clicking on the edit tab and filling in the blanks!
|image=Upload.png
|image_width=240
}}
{{Inc|
Maranta (B. Maranta, Venetian Physician and botanist, died 1754). Marantaceae. Greenhouse pot plants, grown mostly for the foliage.
Perennial herbs, tall or low, erect or prostrate, the flowering part more or less branched: lvs. petiolate, radical and cauline: fls. racemose or paniculate; sepals 3, equal, lanceolate or lance-oblong; corolla more or less tubular, usually enlarged or gibbous at base, the 3 lobes subequal and somewhat hooded at the apex; 2 exterior staminodia petal-like, usually obovate, showy; ovary 1-celled by abortion.—Species 23 in the Monograph by Schumann (hft. 11, Das Pflanzenreich, 1902), in Trop. Amer. Most of the plants cult, as marantas are calatheas; and the true marantas are treated the same as those plants. These plants are often named before the flowers are known, and some of the following plants may belong to the genus Calathea. The genus yields arrow-root (p. 397).
The culture of maranta is that of calathea, which is detailed in Vol. II, p. 619; but the directions may be reviewed from another experience. The marantas are grown for the handsome markings of the leaves, and for making complete foliage groups.—They are increased by division of the crowns, which may be accomplished just as they are starting into growth in the spring. Large plants are the best to use for cutting up, as they have strong crowns, and under proper treatment will form a plant more quickly. The loam should be washed from the root with a hose under gentle pressure. This gives an opportunity to see where is the best place in the crown for division. A sharp knife must be used to give a clean cut, which will heal more quickly. It is also a good plan to cover the cut part with powdered charcoal, which is a great help in the prevention of decay. The cut-up pieces may be potted in equal parts of the fiber of loam, flaky leaves, and sharp sand; add also a small part of broken charcoal. The pot should be big enough to admit the roots without breaking or crushing them and they must be supplied with good drainage.—Marantas like abundance of moisture at their roots. The water, however, must pass freely through them, otherwise they soon get into a sour stagnant condition. Divided plants should be kept in a temperature of not less than 65° and the house must be kept in a humid condition by light syringing, and dampening between the pots on the bench, and in the paths. Change the air in the house by ventilating, as soon as the thermometer reaches 75°. Shade the plants from early spring until late autumn, as the bright sunshine will soon destroy the foliage and make the plants unsightly. Repotting is not necessary until the following spring.—In December, January and February, marantas may be allowed to get quite dry at the roots before watering. By this treatment they seem to start into a more vigorous growth, when they get a shift into a larger pot early in March. Established plants may be potted in a rather rough soil consisting of the fiber of loam two parts, flaky leaves one part, a small part of good sharp sand and another part of dried cow-manure. Add a sixth part of broken-up charcoal to the whole compost. Pot moderately firm, by pressure of the hands, and raise the crown a little in the center. In summer, admit plenty of air during the day, and leave a crack of top air on all night. This insures a strong healthy growth, and the plants may be used for decorative work, without suffering any damage. Tropical plants have been brought into disrepute by what may be termed the sweat-box treatment, which is entirely unnecessary. A soft flabby growth is the result of such usage. When in active growth, marantas may be watered with manure-water. Cow-manure water and soft-coal soot agree well with them. An ordinary handful to a 2½-gallon watering-pot will be found to be sufficient. Apply after watering twice with clean water. If marantas are well syringed under the leaves, insect pests are not troublesome. If they obtain a foothold, sponge the leaves with some reliable insecticide.
}}
==Cultivation==
===Propagation===
===Pests and diseases===
==Varieties==
==Gallery==
<gallery perrow=5>
Image:Upload.png| photo 1
Image:Upload.png| photo 2
Image:Upload.png| photo 3
</gallery>
==References==
<references/>
*[[Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture]], by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963
<!--- xxxxx *Flora: The Gardener's Bible, by Sean Hogan. Global Book Publishing, 2003. ISBN 0881925381 -->
<!--- xxxxx *American Horticultural Society: A-Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants, by Christopher Brickell, Judith D. Zuk. 1996. ISBN 0789419432 -->
<!--- xxxxx *Sunset National Garden Book. Sunset Books, Inc., 1997. ISBN 0376038608 -->
==External links==
*{{wplink}}
{{stub}}
__NOTOC__