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The bignonias (using the term in the horticultural sense) are strong and rapid-growing evergreen greenhouse climbers, requiring considerable space for their best development, such as the roof of a large conservatory, or the back wall of a lean-to greenhouse. If convenient, they should be planted out under the plant stage of the greenhouse, or otherwise in boxes placed on the stage. A box 5 feet by 1½ feet and 1 foot deep will be found a convenient size for them. As with most greenhouse climbing plants, the roots like considerable freedom; but with bignonias the roots must be somewhat, restricted (though not to the limitations of a flower-pot), otherwise an immense growth and few flowers will be the result. They are not very fastidious as to soil. A good, fibrous loam, to which one-third well-decomposed cow or sheep manure has been added, suits them admirably. A winter temperature of 45 to 50°, with a gradual rise as the days lengthen, should be given them, admitting air freely whenever the weather is favorable. They like plenty of moisture at the roots—especially during the spring and summer (the growing season)—but perfect drainage should be insured, as the soil at no time must become saturated or sour. Except when in flower, a good syringing on all fine days will be very beneficial. They should also be sprayed once or twice a week with a moderately strong solution of kerosene emulsion, or kerosene and water, to keep them free from mealy-bug, as they are very subject to this pest. The vines should be trained so as to allow a free circulation of air among the branches for the purpose of ripening the wood, as upon this depends the assurance of flowers. All superfluous branches and weak shoots should be removed, and before the growing season begins  all the branches should be shortened from 1 to 3 feet, according to their strength; this will throw the energy of the plant into the lateral buds, which will produce the flowering branches, providing the wood has been properly ripened the previous season.—Propagation is effected by cuttings taken in late spring and inserted in sand under a bell-glass, or in a propagating-box, in a warm temperature. Choose, if possible, stout, short-jointed lateral growths for the purpose. They must be carefully watered until rooted, which usually takes from six to ten weeks. (E. J. Canning.)

The bignonias (using the term in the horticultural sense) are strong and rapid-growing evergreen greenhouse climbers, requiring considerable space for their best development, such as the roof of a large conservatory, or the back wall of a lean-to greenhouse. If convenient, they should be planted out under the plant stage of the greenhouse, or otherwise in boxes placed on the stage. A box 5 feet by 1½ feet and 1 foot deep will be found a convenient size for them. As with most greenhouse climbing plants, the roots like considerable freedom; but with bignonias the roots must be somewhat, restricted (though not to the limitations of a flower-pot), otherwise an immense growth and few flowers will be the result. They are not very fastidious as to soil. A good, fibrous loam, to which one-third well-decomposed cow or sheep manure has been added, suits them admirably. A winter temperature of 45 to 50°, with a gradual rise as the days lengthen, should be given them, admitting air freely whenever the weather is favorable. They like plenty of moisture at the roots—especially during the spring and summer (the growing season)—but perfect drainage should be insured, as the soil at no time must become saturated or sour. Except when in flower, a good syringing on all fine days will be very beneficial. They should also be sprayed once or twice a week with a moderately strong solution of kerosene emulsion, or kerosene and water, to keep them free from mealy-bug, as they are very subject to this pest. The vines should be trained so as to allow a free circulation of air among the branches for the purpose of ripening the wood, as upon this depends the assurance of flowers. All superfluous branches and weak shoots should be removed, and before the growing season begins  all the branches should be shortened from 1 to 3 feet, according to their strength; this will throw the energy of the plant into the lateral buds, which will produce the flowering branches, providing the wood has been properly ripened the previous season.—Propagation is effected by cuttings taken in late spring and inserted in sand under a bell-glass, or in a propagating-box, in a warm temperature. Choose, if possible, stout, short-jointed lateral growths for the purpose. They must be carefully watered until rooted, which usually takes from six to ten weeks. (E. J. Canning.)

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