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Pelargonium (stork, because the fruit is long and slender like a
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stork's bill). Geraniaceae. Geranium of gardens. Pelargonium. Stork's
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Bill. Many kinds of pot-plants, popular for indoors and for bedding;
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and some of them much planted permanently out-of-doors in California
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and elsewhere; flowers showy.
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Plants of various habit: some are fleshy and tuberous and are treated
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as succulents, but those commonly grown are erect or trailing leafy
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herbs or woody below (sometimes shrubby) with sts. somewhat soft and
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succulent or small and firm: lvs. mostly opposite, entire to
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decompound, stipulate, the foliage often strong- scented: infl.
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mostly umbel-like, on axillary peduncles; fls. irregular, the petals
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5 (rarely fewer by abortion), the 2 upper usually larger and more
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prominently colored, the lower mostly narrow and rarely very small,
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the colors pink, red, purple, white, sometimes yellow, often
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attractively blotched or veined; calyx 5-parted (or the sepals said
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to be connate at base), the uppermost segm. produced at base into a
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slender nectar-bearing tube or spur adnate to the pedicel; stamens
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10, of which 7 or less are anther-bearing and fertile: fr. of 5
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valves, each 1-seeded and separating from the beaklike apex mostly by
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coiling and more or less hygro metrically.—Nearly all the
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pelargoniums are from S. Afr. All the species mentioned in this
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article are from that region, unless otherwise stated. Harvey, in
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Vol. I of Harvey & Sender's Flora Capensis (1859-60), admits
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163 species; and his descriptions are followed closely in the
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characterizations of species given below. Knuth, the most recent
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monographer (in Engler's Pflanzen- reich, IV. 129, 1912), admits 232
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species and very many well-marked hybrids. Pelargonium is
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distinguished from the genus Geranium by technical characters. In
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most cases, the fls. of Geranium are regular, but those of
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Pelargonium are irregular, the 2 upper petals differing from the
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others in size and shape and often in coloring. The most constant
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difference between the two genera is the presence in Pelargonium of a
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nectar-tube, extending from the base of one of the sepals and
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adherent to the side of the calyx-tube or pedicel. This tube is not
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seen by the casual observer, but it may be discovered by making a
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longitudinal section of the fl. and pedicel.
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The person who wishes to study the contemporaneous evolution of
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plants may find his heart's desire in Pelargonium. With great numbers
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of species and many of them variable and confusing in a wild state,
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with plant breeding in many places and continued through two
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centuries, and with a large special literature, the genus offers
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exceptional advantages and perplexities to the student. Most of the
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species early came into cultivation by the English and Dutch, the
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South African plants forming at one time almost a separate department
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of horticultural knowledge. P. cucullatum, the dominant parent in the
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florist's pelargoniums, was known in England as early as 1690. The
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two originals of the race of zonal or bedding geraniums were
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introduced into England in 1710 and 1714. Early in that century, a
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half-dozen species were grown at Eltham, in the famous garden of
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James Sherard, and these were pictured in 1732 in Dillenius account
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of that garden, "Hortus Elthamensis," a sumptuously illustrated work
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in quarto. Even at that time, P. inquinans had varied  markedly (see
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Fig. 2836).in his "Species Plantarum," 1753, Linnaeus . described the
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few species which he knew (about twenty-five) under the genus
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Geranium. In 1787, L'Heritier founded the genus Pelargonium, and
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transferred many of the Linnaean species. L'Heritier's work
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"Geraniplogia," a quarto, appeared in Paris in 1787 to 1788, with
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forty-four full- page plates. Recently Kuntze has revived the pre-
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Linnaean name Geraniospermum (1736) for this genus, but it is not
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likely to find acceptance.
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Early in the nineteenth century, many species were in cultivation in
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Europe, and experiments in hybridizing and breeding became common.
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There appears to have been something like a geranium craze. The
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experiments seem to have been confined largely to the development of
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the show or fancy pelargoniums, as greenhouse subjects, for bedding
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plants had not reached their present popularity. The geranium
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interest seems to have culminated in Robert Sweet's noble work on
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"Geraniaceae," published in five volumes in London, 1820 to 1830,
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containing 500 well-executed colored plates of geraniaceous plants.
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At that time many distinct garden hybrids were in cultivation, and to
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these Sweet gave Latin botanical names. His fifth volume is devoted
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chiefly to garden forms of the show pelargonium type, to which the
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general class name Domes- ticum is given in the following sketch. The
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development of the zonal or bedding geraniums had begun in Sweet's
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time, and he includes them in his pictures, but the larger part of
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their evolution is subsequent to his history. Various small works on
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pelargonium have appeared. De Jonghe's "Traite Me'thodique de la
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Culture du Pelargonium," Brussels, 1844, contains good
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bibliographical and cultural data.
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Few classes of plants should have more interest to the amateur and
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fancier because the species are numerous and varied, the colors
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mostly very attractive, the habit of the plant interesting, and the
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foliage often with pleasing fragrance; yet, excluding the common
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window and bedding geraniums of the P. zonale and P. inquinans type
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and the Lady Washington or Show types, they are very little known to
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gardeners. A cool greenhouse could be made to yield very interesting
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subjects in the species here described and others that may be secured
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from collectors in the regions where they grow.
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Most of the cultivated forms of pelargonium may be grouped into four
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general horticultural classes:
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I. The zonal, horseshoe, fish, or bedding types, known to gardeners
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as "geraniums." They comprise a mongrel class, designated as the
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Hortorum class This race seems to be derived from P. zonale and P.
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inquinans. These two species were made by Linnaeus in 1753, but he
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founded them on descriptions in earlier works rather than directly on
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the plants. In America, the zonal geraniums are very popular, for
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they develop their colors well in the bright climate. They are
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popular in all countries, however. They probably stand closer to the
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lives of a great number of persons than any other ornamental plant.
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If a window or a garden can have but one plant, that plant is likely
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to be a geranium. The old race of large-flowered and large-clustered
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geraniums was known as "nosegay geraniums," because they were
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bouquet-like, but this term is not known in America. Another race has
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been developed for its zone marked leaves. There is also a race of
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double-flowered zonals, which have appeared chiefly since 1860. The
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very full double and close-clustered forms lose much of the grace and
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charm of the single types. Some of them are little better, to a
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sensitive eye, than balls of colored paper. In the development of the
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individual flower of the geranium, there have been two ideals—the
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English ideal for a circular flower with the petals broadened and
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overlapping, and the continental ideal with a somewhat two-lipped
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flower and the petals well separated. In the "Gardeners' Chronicle"
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in 1841, p. 644, the proper form is set forth in an illustration, and
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this is contrasted with the "original form;" the picture is
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reproduced, somewhat smaller, in Fig. 2837. "The long, narrow, flimsy
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petals of the old varieties," the writing says, "moved by every
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breath of wind, and separated to their very base by broad open
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spaces, have been succeeded by the beautiful compact flowers of the
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present day, with broad stout petals so entirely overlaying each
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other as to leave scarcely an indentation in the outline of the
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flower; while the coarseness which prevailed in the larger of the old
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sorts is replaced by a firmer substance, and a far more delicate
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texture." Fig. 2838 shows contrasting ideals, although the picture
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does not represent the extremes.
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In more recent years  a French type has appeared under the name of
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"gros bois," or "large-wood" race. It is characterized as follows by
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Dauthenay: umbels ordinarily 4 to 5 inches in diameter: flowers very
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large; petals roundish, or sometimes triangular, the limb always very
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large and giving the corolla a remarkably round contour: leaves very
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large, thick and coriaceous, plane or incurved, more or less
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indented, strongly nerved, their diameter averaging about 5 inches,
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pedicels large and short: peduncles large, rigid, and projecting
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beyond the foliage: wood soft, fleshy, very large, often 1 1/2 inches
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around. To this type Dauthenay refers the Bruant geraniums, dating
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from 1882. A special handbook is devoted to these plants: Dauthenay,
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"Les Geraniums," Paris, 1897.
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II. The ivy-leaved geraniums, products largely of Pelargonium
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peltatum (Fig. 2839). The species is said to have been introduced
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into England in 1701. It is a weak and straggling plant, used mostly
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in vases, hanging-baskets, and other places in which an overhanging
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subject is desired. The foliage is thick and shiny, slightly peltate
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and prominently angle-lobed, and the pink or reddish two-lipped
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flowers are always admired. Much-improved and double forms are now in
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commerce.
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III. The "show" or fancy type is known to gardeners as "pelargonium,"
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and in this country also as Lady Washington geraniums (Fig. 2845).
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These plants are very popular in Europe, being grown in numerous
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varieties. They are prominent at the exhibitions. Because of the hot
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trying summer climate, these plants are of very secondary importance
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in America, although there are many gardeners who succeed well with
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them. This race of pelargoniums seems to have descended chiefly from
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P. cucullatum, although P. angulosum may be nearly equally concerned
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in it. P. grandiflorum is also thought to have been a formative
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parent. It is probable that two or three other species are concerned
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in the evolution. In fact, the late Shirley Hibbard once wrote (G.C.,
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July 3, 1880) that "it must be evident to every cultivator of these
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flowers that the blood of a score or so of species is mingled in
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them." This marked garden race, which represents no single wild
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species, is designated as the Domesticum group.
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IV. Various scented-leaved geraniums, known mostly as "rose
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geraniums." These are of several species, with then hybrids and
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derivatives. The common rose geraniums are nearest P. graveolens and
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P. Radula. The nutmeg geranium is P. odoratissimum or P. fragrans.
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Aside from the above groups there are several species which appear
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sporadically in -the trade, as P. tomen- tosum, P. echinatum, P.
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triste, P. quinquevulnerum, P. fulgidum, and P. quercifolium or the
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derivatives of them. Few great collections of pelargonium species and
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varieties have been made in this country, and this is much to be
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regretted.
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Culture of zonal geraniums. (C. W. Ward.)
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While the general florist may consider geranium- culture the easiest
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of all gardening, the fact remains that it is as necessary to observe
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the requirements of the geranium as it is to observe the requirements
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of any other plant; in order to succeed and produce the best effects
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attainable. While it is true that the geranium will grow and make a
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good showing with comparatively little care, there is as much
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difference between a skilfully grown geranium plant and one
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carelessly grown as there is between a fancy and a common rose or
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carnation.
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To secure the best results it is necessary to propagate from
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perfectly healthy stock. The dangers of over- propagation are as
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great with the geranium as with most other plants. To keep most
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varieties in good health it is necessary to plant the stock intended
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for propagation in the field and to propagate either from the
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field-grown wood in August or early September, or to lift the plants
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in the month of September and plant them on benches in the
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greenhouse, where they will become established and will maintain a
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vigorous constitution throughout the winter season. The propagation
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from field-grown wood is far less successful than from wood grown
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inside, and when the field-grown cuttings are placed in sand, a large
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percentage of them is likely to damp-off, especially if there has
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been a comparatively abundant rainfall in the month of July. The best
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method that the writer has found for striking the field- grown
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cuttings is to put them in 2-inch pots, using a light sandy soil free
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from all manure and chemicals, and to place the pots in the full
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sunlight either in a coolhouse or a frame. These cuttings must be
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kept on the dry side until the calluses have been well formed,
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although they should not be allowed to shrivel at any time. If the
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cuttings show signs of shriveling, a light syringing is preferable to
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a heavy watering. After the roots have started, the treatment of the
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plants is the same as if the cuttings had been rooted in the sand and
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repotted. The writer contiders wood grown inside superior to
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field-grown wood, as the cuttings are much shorter-jointed; most of
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them can be taken from the plant with a heel and 95 to 100 per cent
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of them will root in sand in the ordinary cutting-bench.
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A good temperature for the geranium propagating- house is 56° to 60°,
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with a bottom heat of 65° to 60*. While the cuttings are in the sand
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and before they are rooted, care must be taken about keeping them top
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moist for fear of "damping-off," or what geranium- growers know as
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"black-rot." As soon as the cutting is thoroughly callused and begins
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to emit roots, it should be potted up at once. The best soil for
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geraniums, according to the writer's experience, is a firm pliable
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clay loam; this is best if used absolutely without any manure,
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especially fresh manure. After potting the cuttings they should be
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lightly watered and shaded for a day or so if the sun is extremely
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hot, until the roots take hold and the foliage fills up and the stems
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begin to look plump. The geranium should not be grown at any time in
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its young state in a soil that is too rich, and care must also be
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taken that the plants are not kept too wet.
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The geranium is subject to few diseases, and so far as the writer
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has been able to observe these diseases are brought on by improper
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treatment, such as having too much fresh rank manure in the soil or
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keeping the plants too wet. Too much strong plant-food in the earth
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combined with too much moisture induces a condition of the leaves
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ordinarily called "spot." It usually appears in the hottest weather
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or immediately after extreme heat accompanied by copious showers or
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rains.
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Excellent specimen geranium plants may be grown in pots, especially
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of some of the newer French and English round-flowered varieties. In
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order to produce the best results, choose young vigorous plants that
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have been propagated either in the latter part of August or the
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forepart of September, and that have shown a disposition to take hold
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immediately, both in rooting and in starting to grow after being
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potted. The soil should not be too rich, and it is best to start with
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the plant in a rather small pot, say 2 1/2 inches, and proceed onward
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with light shifts,—that is, shifting the plant from a 2 1/2-inch to a
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3 1/2-inch pot, and so on, letting the sizes increase an inch at each
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shift until a 7-, 8-, or 9-inch pot is reached, which will usually be
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large enough to flower the finest specimens. Whenever shifting the
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geranium, be sure to pot firmly, as a firm soil produces a
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short-jointed stocky growth, and far more bloom than a loose or
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over-rich soil. When the plants reach a 5- or 6-inch pot they may be
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regularly fed with manure- water. The most critical time for these
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specimen geraniums will be in the months of July, August, and
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September; in these periods exposure to intense sunshine should be
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avoided. Too much water and a close temperature are always
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detrimental to the geranium. Syringing the foliage frequently to keep
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down the temperature is also injurious. If these plants are kept
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under glass, a light shading or stripping upon the glass is
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beneficial. Probably the best position for such plants in these three
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extreme months is on the north side of a row of trees, some distance
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away from the trees, where the plants will have the benefit of the
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subdued shading of the foliage. If kept under glass and
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shaded,abundant ventilation should always be provided. As the winter
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approaches, a night temperature of 60° and day temperature of 70° to
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75°; with plenty of ventilation in the daytime, especially in bright
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weather, seem best to suit the plants. Syringing ruins the flowers,
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and too much moisture either in the pot or upon the foliage causes
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the spotting of the leaves known as "dropsy." In planting the
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geranium in the field or in beds, always avoid an over-rich soil. The
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earth should be in good condition and fertile, but must not be loaded
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with either chemical or animal fertilizer. Too much water at any
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period during the hot weather produces a rank growth, reduces the
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quantity of bloom and in most instances induces the spotted foliage
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to appear.
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Another disease, which is sometimes serious, especially in extremely
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hot seasons accompanied with a superabundance of moisture, is
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"stem-rot." This frequently attacks imported stock. It is most
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serious in intensely hot seasons; the entire plant turns black and
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fades and withers away. The stem-rot occurs in varieties that have
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been very heavily propagated.
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The insects that affect the geranium are also comparatively few. The
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red-spider is sometimes a serious pest in summer and is difficult to
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get rid of when it is once well established. The only method is to
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syringe the plants with an extremely fine spray, and also to pick off
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the leaves that are seriously affected and burn them. The green-fly
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is also troublesome at times, but is easily managed with the ordinary
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fumigation of tobacco. There is a small caterpillar that eats the
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foliage and sometimes proves a serious pest. If one can induce a few
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ground sparrows or any of the warblers, or even English sparrows, to
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make their home about the greenhouse, they will put a speedy end to
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these caterpillars. Another remedy is to go over the plants carefully
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and to pick the caterpillars off and destroy them. This is tedious,
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as it must be done frequently.
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In the way of bedding geraniums, as a rule the Bruant section
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produces the best results, but there are a number of English and
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French varieties that do especially well in our hot climate. The
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greatest difficulty in successful geranium-culture in America is the
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intense heat of the summer months, chiefly July and August. Some
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varieties withstand the heat better than others.
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Show pelargoniums. (T. D. Hatfield.)
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What are known as show pelargoniums have enjoyed a long popularity.
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By the general public, and by old people especially, they are known
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as Lady Washington geraniums. They are not so commonly grown as the
  −
so-called geraniums, chiefly on account of their limited season of
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bloom and the fact that they cannot endure our hot midsummer suns.
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Through the greater part of the summer they are liable to be
  −
neglected. They also require different treatment from geraniums, and
  −
— if skill there be — more skill in cultivation.
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At the end of the blooming season, they require rest, — a season of
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ripening the growth already made. At this time very little water will
  −
be needed, and they may be stood out in the full sun. Only the old
  −
flower-stems may be removed. In no sense should they be cut back at
  −
this time, neither should water enough be given to encourage new
  −
growth. All the leaves should stay on until they naturally turn
  −
yellow with age, thus securing a thoroughly ripened growth. In
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September, one may prune them into shape, sometimes rather severely,
  −
but in any case cut out all weak and soft shoots. They should then be
  −
shaken out and repotted in a light compost, not rich, into the
  −
smallest-sized pots that wil| hold them, for the process of growing
  −
them on has to be gone over every season. After potting, a good
  −
soaking will be necessary, and they may be placed in a well-lighted
  −
coldframe. There is no need to keep them close; the stimulation of
  −
water, and the slight protection of a frame are usually enough to
  −
start them into new growth. No forcing will ever be needed at any
  −
season, and if the grower wished, he might keep them in a cold- frame
  −
until very late in the season, so long as adequate protection against
  −
frost is afforded. They are at their best in May, and to have them in
  −
good condition, one may grow them slowly in a house averaging about
  −
50° night temperature (slightly less in midwinter), from October
  −
onward.
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After the turn of the days—in January—repot them, using now a richer
  −
compost. Give a fairly good shift, depending in part on the size of
  −
plants desired, the vigor they show, and the difference in varieties.
  −
If wanted to bloom in April or, as some florists might, at Easter,
  −
they should have been potted at once—in late August or September—into
  −
the size they should bloom in,—a medium size, probably the same as
  −
they had lately occupied, and have been taken indoors to grow on
  −
continuously. But for display in May and June, they are potted again
  −
in January, and some plants may be given another shift when extra
  −
vigor or the possible need of a few extra-large specimens demand it.
  −
They will need careful stopping. Some rubbing out of weak shoots,
  −
when they break abundantly, will help those that remain, and one may
  −
even have to do a little pruning. Stopping, however, must be
  −
discontinued as soon as the flowering stems begin to show, which is
  −
about the end of February in the writer's practice. These stems can
  −
be distinguished easily by a slightly different manner of growth. Up
  −
to this time the plants may be allowed to grow naturally; but if the
  −
gardener wants trained specimens he must begin to bend them as he
  −
wishes them to grow, as their growth speedily hardens and the plant
  −
will readily take and keep the form to which it is shaped.
  −
  −
Water should be given sparingly through the dead of winter. February
  −
and March are the months when the most growth is made, and at this
  −
time one may stimulate them materially by the judicious use of
  −
artificial manures, which may be continued, if necessary, until they
  −
come into bloom. They are much subject to the attacks of green-fly
  −
and red-spider; and as the foliage is fairly tender and liable to
  −
injury from tobacco smoke, reliance must be placed on fluid
  −
insecticides almost wholly. The blooming season is very much
  −
lengthened by giving a slight degree of shade.
  −
  −
The best time to take cuttings is soon after the flowering season.
  −
Often toward the last of the season, the plants make a few "growing"
  −
shoots, and these may be taken; but off and on during the summer one
  −
can get cuttings, and any time until August will do. Cuttings taken
  −
in winter-time with a heel make pretty little plants in 4- or 5-inch
  −
pots without stopping. Cuttings taken at the usual time and grown in
  −
6- or 7- inch pots come in handy in grouping for the front lines. It
  −
is necessary to raise a few plants every season to replace older
  −
plants which have grown too large.
  −
  −
New varieties are raised from seed, which is freely produced. In
  −
hybridizing it does not appear that handpollination has any effect,
  −
as the seedlings seldom show any particular affinity to either
  −
parent.
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  −
                                    Index.
  −
anguloeum, 20.           filipendulifolium, 1.     odoratissimum,
  −
15, 16.
  −
artemisaefolium, 5.   fragrans, 16.             odoratum, 31.
  −
artemisioides, 5.   fulgidum, 3.            
  −
pastinacaefolium, 1.
  −
betulinum, 17.           glabrum, 7.             peltatum, 7,
  −
capitatum, 23.           grandiflorum, 8.     quercifolium,
  −
25.
  −
clypeatum, 7.           graveolens, 26.     quinquevulnerum,
  −
2.
  −
cordatum, 18.           hederaefolium, 7.     Radula, 28.
  −
crispum, 30.           hispidum, 27.             revolutum, 28.
  −
cucullatum, 19.           hortorum, 13.             scutatum, 7.
  −
daucifolium, 1           inquinana, 12.     Thorncroftii,
  −
10.
  −
denticulatum, 29.        lateripes, 7.  .     tomentosum, 22.
  −
domesticum,21            latifolium,30             
  −
transvaelense,10.         
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Drummondii, 23.           laxatum, 1.     triste, 1.
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echinatum, 14.           Limoneum, 31.              villosum,1
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Endlicherianum, 6.   multibracteatum 9.     vitifolium, 24.
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erectum, 16.           multifidum, 28.     sonale, 11.
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exstipulatum, 4.
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I. Lvs. on the pinnate order, although sometimes entire, usually
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pinnately lobed or compound. (Nos. 1-5).
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Any number of Latin-formed names of Pelargonium may appear in the
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trade, for the hybrids and varieties are numerous and not always
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readily referable to the species as forms or varieties.—P.
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Blandfordianum, Sweet {P. graveolens X P. echinatum). A good grower,
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shrubby, the branches roughish pubescent: lvs. flat, 7- lobed, the
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lower lobes deeply lobed again, all bluntly toothed, strong-scented:
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fls. white or pale blush, the upper petals with 2 red spots. G.M.
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54:626.—P. brevipetalum, N. E. Br.=Polycephalum-P.Cotyledonis,L'Her.Lvs evergreen at base of plant, cordate,3in. across,entire or nearly so, whitish beneath wrinkled above:fls on scape-like peduncles above the lvs.2/4 in across, white.
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St. Helena. Requires little heat. G. 35:235.—P. inxquilobum. Mast.
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Allied to P. multibracteatum. Pilose: lvs. 3-lobed, the terminal lobe
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ovate-lanceolate and again lobed in middle, margins toothed: fls.
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greenish yellow with purple in base. Trop. Afr. Perhaps same as P.
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Fischeri, Engl.—P. luteolum, N. E. Br. A very recent species from S.
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Afr.: herb with bulbous root- stock: lvs. 4 or 5, all radical, twice
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ternately divided, 1/2-1 1/4 in. long and broad, the ultimate segms.
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linear: petals nearly 1/2in. long, pale yellow with 2 red lines at
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base.—P. polycephalum, E. Mey. (P. brevipetalum, N. E. Br.), St.
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thick and fleshy, ovoid, rising very little above the ground,
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short-branched at top: lvs. in a rosette, bipinnately divided,
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ovate-oblong in outline, thick and fleshy; pinnae 5 or 6 pairs,
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pinnatisect: fls. pale yellow, the petals shorter than sepals. Cape
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Colony.—P. roseum, Hort., is a name of no botanical standing, applied
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to some of the common forms of rose geranium of the P. Radula group.
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L H B
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}}
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#REDIRECT [[Geranium]]
 
#REDIRECT [[Geranium]]

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