Changes

Culture.—The Cape jasmine of today, Gardenia veitchii, was introduced by the well-known English firm of Jas. Veitch & Son. This new variety has fulfilled the long-desired want, because it is really a winter- flowering variety, while the old species Gardenia jasminoides or G. florida could not be made to flower during the early and midwinter when actually most valuable, hence the almost total abandonment of that old variety for cut-flower purposes. This new type has become one of the most popular florist flowers, although it is one of the most difficult plants to handle. The young plants are raised from cuttings in the early winter. Care must be taken to propagate only from thoroughly healthy plants. Three- to four-eye cuttings should be put into clean, sharp sand with a minimum bottom heat of 70° and a maximum of 85°. The atmosphere should be rather close in the propagating-house until after the cuttings begin to root, then some air should be admitted. The cutting-bench must be kept shaded from the sun and frequent syringing is absolutely necessary. When fully rooted in the sand, they are potted into 2-inch pots in well-prepared soil of four parts decomposed sod loam, one part of well-rotted old cow-manure and one part sand. The soil should be well screened. Potting firmly is essential, and not too much room should be left for water. A gentle bottom heat for these young plants is highly beneficial. When the sun begins to get higher and the days lengthen, a little fresh air during the middle of the day is invigorating for the young plants, but the night temperature should never go below 65. The plants must be kept growing constantly and should be repotted as soon as they have filled their pots with roots. The months of May and June are the best time to plant gardenias into benches or solid beds. The best soil has been found to be well-rotted turf or sod, a pliable loam and well-rotted cow-manure well mixed, three parts of loam to one of manure. Should the soil be rather stiff or of a heavy texture, a portion of sand may be added. The benches should be 4 to 5 inches deep and have sufficient openings or cracks for drainage. Where very thin turf or sod can be had, the bench should be lined with this, or if not practicable, then a layer of sphagnum moss so as to cover the bottom of the bench. On top of this, a liberal sprinkling of pieces of charcoal will tend to keep the soil sweet. A small quantity of ground bone may be sprinkled over the soil after it is all spread on the benches ready for planting. Care must be taken that all balls are well softened and dissolved when planting so that there will be an amalgamation of the new soil and the soil of the ball. Firm planting and immediate watering are of the highest importance and frequent syringing after planting. Shading is not necessary, providing frequent syringing is given. Keep the soil moist but never wet. It is well to keep the house rather close for a few days, after which air can be given freely. Gardenia veitchii can stand any amount of heat, and there is no danger of burning or scorching until the foliage begins to get warm. When thermometer goes above 90° to 95° more air must be given. The plants must now make their growth and if buds appear they must be pinched out. Keep pinching out buds and small side shoots until the latter part of September when buds may be allowed to set upon the stronger shoots. A strong healthy plant can carry four to six such flowering shoots. After buds begin to set and sometimes even before, bottom shoots begin to come. These are the second growth and make for a second crop of flowers as well as for propagating the young plants for the next season. Plants are seldom kept over the second year although it can be done successfully. Young plants are decidedly the most profitable. When the plants are well set with buds, in October and November, and the roots appear on the surface, a very light mulch of cow-manure is beneficial as it will assist to develop the flowers. A night temperature of 65° to 68° is best, while during the day it may range from 70° to 90°. Good hard syringing will keep down the pests which are fond of this plant, especially the mealy-bug. The flowers should be cut before the center petals have fully expanded and the longer the stem the more valuable the flower.  

Culture.—The Cape jasmine of today, Gardenia veitchii, was introduced by the well-known English firm of Jas. Veitch & Son. This new variety has fulfilled the long-desired want, because it is really a winter- flowering variety, while the old species Gardenia jasminoides or G. florida could not be made to flower during the early and midwinter when actually most valuable, hence the almost total abandonment of that old variety for cut-flower purposes. This new type has become one of the most popular florist flowers, although it is one of the most difficult plants to handle. The young plants are raised from cuttings in the early winter. Care must be taken to propagate only from thoroughly healthy plants. Three- to four-eye cuttings should be put into clean, sharp sand with a minimum bottom heat of 70° and a maximum of 85°. The atmosphere should be rather close in the propagating-house until after the cuttings begin to root, then some air should be admitted. The cutting-bench must be kept shaded from the sun and frequent syringing is absolutely necessary. When fully rooted in the sand, they are potted into 2-inch pots in well-prepared soil of four parts decomposed sod loam, one part of well-rotted old cow-manure and one part sand. The soil should be well screened. Potting firmly is essential, and not too much room should be left for water. A gentle bottom heat for these young plants is highly beneficial. When the sun begins to get higher and the days lengthen, a little fresh air during the middle of the day is invigorating for the young plants, but the night temperature should never go below 65. The plants must be kept growing constantly and should be repotted as soon as they have filled their pots with roots. The months of May and June are the best time to plant gardenias into benches or solid beds. The best soil has been found to be well-rotted turf or sod, a pliable loam and well-rotted cow-manure well mixed, three parts of loam to one of manure. Should the soil be rather stiff or of a heavy texture, a portion of sand may be added. The benches should be 4 to 5 inches deep and have sufficient openings or cracks for drainage. Where very thin turf or sod can be had, the bench should be lined with this, or if not practicable, then a layer of sphagnum moss so as to cover the bottom of the bench. On top of this, a liberal sprinkling of pieces of charcoal will tend to keep the soil sweet. A small quantity of ground bone may be sprinkled over the soil after it is all spread on the benches ready for planting. Care must be taken that all balls are well softened and dissolved when planting so that there will be an amalgamation of the new soil and the soil of the ball. Firm planting and immediate watering are of the highest importance and frequent syringing after planting. Shading is not necessary, providing frequent syringing is given. Keep the soil moist but never wet. It is well to keep the house rather close for a few days, after which air can be given freely. Gardenia veitchii can stand any amount of heat, and there is no danger of burning or scorching until the foliage begins to get warm. When thermometer goes above 90° to 95° more air must be given. The plants must now make their growth and if buds appear they must be pinched out. Keep pinching out buds and small side shoots until the latter part of September when buds may be allowed to set upon the stronger shoots. A strong healthy plant can carry four to six such flowering shoots. After buds begin to set and sometimes even before, bottom shoots begin to come. These are the second growth and make for a second crop of flowers as well as for propagating the young plants for the next season. Plants are seldom kept over the second year although it can be done successfully. Young plants are decidedly the most profitable. When the plants are well set with buds, in October and November, and the roots appear on the surface, a very light mulch of cow-manure is beneficial as it will assist to develop the flowers. A night temperature of 65° to 68° is best, while during the day it may range from 70° to 90°. Good hard syringing will keep down the pests which are fond of this plant, especially the mealy-bug. The flowers should be cut before the center petals have fully expanded and the longer the stem the more valuable the flower.  

(H. A. Siebrecht.)

(H. A. Siebrecht.)

}}

}}

{{otheruses}}

{{otheruses}}