1,913
edits
Changes
From Gardenology.org - Plant Encyclopedia and Gardening Wiki
Jump to navigationJump to searchno edit summary
The cutting from which the buds are taken is known to budders as a stick (Fig. 1674). In early spring-budding, this stick is the last year's growth of the variety which it is desired to propagate. Later in the season, the stick is the twig grown in that season. Not all the buds on the stick are strong enough or good enough for budding. The budder will usually discard the weak ones at the top and at the bottom, unless he is very much pressed for buds, as may be the case with new or rare varieties. If the stick is taken late in the season the leaves will be on; but these are quickly cut off to prevent too much evaporation from the cutting. About ¼ inch of the leaf-stalk is left to serve as a handle to the bud.
The cutting from which the buds are taken is known to budders as a stick (Fig. 1674). In early spring-budding, this stick is the last year's growth of the variety which it is desired to propagate. Later in the season, the stick is the twig grown in that season. Not all the buds on the stick are strong enough or good enough for budding. The budder will usually discard the weak ones at the top and at the bottom, unless he is very much pressed for buds, as may be the case with new or rare varieties. If the stick is taken late in the season the leaves will be on; but these are quickly cut off to prevent too much evaporation from the cutting. About ¼ inch of the leaf-stalk is left to serve as a handle to the bud.
Shield-budding.
The ordinary operation of budding is shown in the illustrations. It is known as shield-budding, from the shape of the removed bud. With a thin-bladed, sharp knife, the operator slices off the bud by placing his thumb beneath the bud and making a deft and quick stroke of the blade. Just under the bud he cuts a little into the wood. Some budders afterward remove this bit of wood; but this is not essential. If this wood is somewhat hard stick of and dry, or if it carries some pith, it may then buds, serve to dry out the bud or to prevent intimate contact with the cambium of the stock. In ordinary operations this truncheon of wood is not removed. Most budders cut all the buds on a stick before they insert any of them; but they are allowed to hang to the stick by their upper ends, being snipped off by the knife as fast as they are needed (Fig. 1674).
Wester writes as follows on the requirements in budding citrus fruits (Bull. No. 27, Bur. Agric., Philippine Isls.), and the directions will apply to other plants; and he gives pictures (Figs. 1675, 1676) of part of the manual operation: "Many people are under the impression that budding is a very complicated operation, correspondingly difficult to learn and to perform. As a matter of fact this is not true. Some judgment must of course be exercised in all phases of the work, but the art of budding itself is a mere matter of manual skill that anyone should be able to master who is at all deft in the handling of a knife. Necessary essentials for success are: (1) Stock plants in condition for budding; i.e., the flow of sap must be good so that the bark separates readily from the wood. (2) A suitable budding-knife, the edge of which should be sharp and keen as a razor, and clean of all impurities; an ordinary pocket-knife will hardly answer the purpose. (3) Proper bud-wood; immature bud- wood will not 'take' and the proper cutting of buds from old and hard bud - wood is difficult. (4) The bud-wood should never be allowed to dry out by being exposed to the air or sun. (5) The buds should be inserted immediately after being cut and the bud tied at once. (6) No foreign matter or water should be allowed to enter the bud incision. (7) The bud should be cut so that there is no break or tear in its tissues."
The stock is first prepared by removing all the leaves and twigs from the area to be budded. In the case of nursery stock, it is customary for a boy to strip the lower leaves of the stock a day or so in advance of the budding. If the stripping is done three or four days or a week before the budding, it will sometimes cause the bark to set and, therefore, interfere with the operation. Nursery trees are usually budded as near the ground as the operator can work—not more than 2 or 3 inches above the surface. In most cases, the budder prefers to set the bud on the north side of the stock, that it may be shaded from the hot sun.
A T-shaped incision, just through the bark, is made on the stock (Fig. 1677). The crosswise incision is usually made first. As the operator takes his knife from the last incision, he gives it a deft turn to right and left and loosens the flaps of the bark, so that the bud is easily inserted. The bud is now taken from the stick and shoved into the matrix underneath the bark until it is entirely within the cleft (Fig. 1678). A boy follows and ties the bud, making four or five deft turns and holding the strand by covering the lower end underneath one of the turns (Fig. 1679). No wax or other mastic is used. Any soft strand may be employed for the tying. It was the old custom to use basswood bark, which was taken in the spring from the inner layers of the bark of the basswood tree. This material was then macerated in water and afterward pounded to make it soft. Yarn is also used. At present, raffia is universally employed. This is the stripping of an oriental palm, and it can be bought in the market and is cheaper than home-made materials; it is also better. It is customary to lay it on the ground or in a damp place over night to soften it and to allow the operator to flatten out the strands. This raffia is cut in the length to suit before the tying is begun, and the bunch of strands is then held underneath the belt or carried in a box. For budding, the operator prefers a small, thin-bladed knife, with a rounded or thumb- shaped cutting surface (Fig. 1680). Budding knives are regularly on the market.
When budding is performed late in the season, the bud does not throw out a shoot until the following spring. It merely grows fast or "sticks" to the stock. Two or three weeks after the setting of the bud, the bandage is cut so that it will not restrict the swelling of the stock. If the stock grows very rapidly, it may be necessary to cut the bandage before that time. Nothing more is done with the tree until the following spring, at which time the whole tree is out off about 1 inch above the bud. This one bud now throws out a shoot and makes a very heavy growth, being impelled by the strong root. In this first season of growth, a peach tree will attain the height of 4 to 6 feet, and be ready for market in autumn. If the bud is set early in the spring it will throw out a shoot the same season; but ordinarily it would not make the growth in one season that the bud docs in the other case. Spring-budding in the open air is rarely employed in nursery practice. It is sometimes used in the top-budding of established plants. In all budding practices, it is important to keep down the suckers from the stock.
In the South, a peach tree may be large enough in June, if the seeds are planted in February or March, to be budded. The bud will grow the same year, and by autumn will make a salable tree. This operation of budding in early summer on stocks which grow that year is known as June-budding. As a rule,' June-budded trees are smaller than fall-budded trees; but they can be secured one year sooner.
Other forms of budding.
There are many ways of shaping the bud. These modes may have distinct advantage in certain plants, because of the way in which the bark holds its shape, of the relation to the drying out of the parts, and otherwise.
The rectangular-patch method is illustrated by Sharrock (d, g, To, Fig. 1673). It is recently described by Oliver as one of the successful methods of propagating the mango. (Bulletin No. 46, Bur. PI. Ind., II. S. Dept. Agric.): "The only departure from Sharrock's method of budding as used in the case of the mango at the present time is that the bud, instead of being taken from new growth, must be selected from wood old enough to have lost its foliage. This means that the bud-wood will sometimes be over two years old. The use of bark of this age and even older insures success in budding the mango, as it unites rapidly with bark of a similar age on seedling stocks or on branches of trees. To a certain extent success depends upon the precision with which the section of bark is removed from the stock and also from the variety to be propagated, as the more neatly the bud section is fitted into the space prepared for it the greater the probability of a successful union (Fig. 1681). After the section of bark from the bud stick is nicely fitted in
place, and before tying, a small quantity of grafting- wax should be smeared over the parts where they come together and tied firmly in place with thick strands of raffia. This effectually prevents the admission of auto the spaces which, no matter how carefully the operation be performed, exist between stock and cion; it also serves to prevent moisture from gaining access to the cut surfaces. The cut surfaces and all but the bud should then be covered with strips of cloth dipped in melted paraffin, wrapping being begun at the lower part, so that when finished water will not gain entrance to the wrapped section of bark. If that part of the stock where the bud js tied be exposed to the sun, it is always advisable to furnish shade which is best supplied by strips of paper tied above the bud and extending down over it. Two weeks may be allowed to pass before an examination is made. The cloth wrappings may then be removed and the raffia should be loosened if there is danger of its cutting into the bark. When a sufficient time has elapsed to make certain that a union has taken place, part of the top of the stock should be removed in order to encourage the bud to start. This it will do with very little coaxing. When sufficient growth has been made, all of the stock above the bud may be removed and the cut part coated with liquid grafting-wax or tar to exclude moisture and prevent rotting." Fig. 1682 shows the successful growth of the patch-bud.
The spade-shaped bud, shown in Fig. 1683, has been employed with the mango and other plants. The pointed end makes it possible, according to Oliver, "to push the bark of the cion down tight against the bark of the stock; the top part is then cut off square with the transverse cut in the bark of the stock, and is pressed firmly into position previous to tying and waxing in the usual way." These two forms of budding are given here only for the purpose of illustrating interesting methods, and not necessarily to advise their use.
Improved methods of budding the pecan have been developed in Texas by Charles L. Edwards. He prefers spring-set buds, as they have the whole growing season before them and make salable trees by autumn. The summer-bud makes only a start before autumn, at best; most of them remain dormant till spring, and not a few dry out and perish. One method is shown in Figs. 1684, 1685. The stocks are cut off bodily, and straight across. A slit is then made in the bark at the top (A), and the bark opened to receive the bud. The buds are cut like shield- buds for peaches and plums (B, front and back views), but in addition, the bark is cut away from the lower end of the bud (C), reducing it to a point so it will slip into place easily (D). By the removing the thick rim of the bark from the lower end of the bud; the sap from the stock will enter it easily, and force it into immediate growth, whether put on in early spring or as late as September. At E the bud is shown in place, and the flaps pared. To put on the wrapper, use an oblong little square of waxed cloth with an eyelet in the middle for the bud to emerge from (F). In preparing the cloth for these wrappers, use only beeswax, not grafting-wax for this purpose. Be sure to tie on the wrappers firmly, and sec also that they cover the entire top of the stock, leaving no part of the wounds made by the knife uncovered. A modified shield-bud is used by Edwards. In Fig. 1686, the part marked A shows the outside and inside of the bud as commonly made for the pecan; B shows the thick rim of bark at the lower end. The modification consists in trimming away the lower end, as at C; also in paring away part of the flap, as at G. At E is the regular slit; F, the bark opened to receive bud; D, waxed wrapper; H, wrapper tied on. See Pecan.
Proper time to bud. (Hedrick.)
Inasmuch as the various kinds of trees used as stocks for budding vary greatly in length of their growing season, it naturally follows that the time during which they may be budded will vary accordingly. In a normal season, the figures for New York are about as follows:
Rose July 1 to July 10.
Pear July 10 to July 15.
Apple July 15 to August 1.
Plum (St. Julien stock) .July 15 to August 1.
Plum (Myrobalan stock) August loto September 1.
Cheriy (Mazzard stock) July 20 to August 1.
Cherry (Mahaleb stock) August 20 to September 1.
Quince July 25 to August 15.
Peach August 20 to September 10.
Grafting.
Grafting proper is the operation of inserting a twig or a woody cion into a stock. They may be classified in respect to the place or position of the cion on the stock:
Root-grafting, or the insertion of the cion in the root of the stock;
Crown-grafting, or the insertion of the cion at the crown (surface of the ground);
Stem-grafting, or the insertion of the cion in any part of the main stem or trunk;
Top-grafting, or the insertion of the cion in the top or branches of the plant.
Grafting may again be classified in respect to the maturity of the cion: dormant wood grafting; and softwood or herbaceous grafting, in which the cion is taken from green or growing wood.
It is customary to classify grafting on the way in which the union is made. There are few general types in common use in this country: as cleft-grafting, whip- grafting, veneer-grafting (side-grafting, bark-grafting).
Cleft-grafting.
Cleft-grafting consists in splitting the stock and inserting a wedge-shaped cion into the cleft. It is employed only in rather large stocks, preferably in those an inch or more in diameter. The stock is cut off, and it is split with a knife or tool made for the purpose. The cleft is then held open by a wedge and the cions are inserted in the side of the cleft in such position that the cambiums of the stock and cion are in contact (Fig. 1687). The whole surface is then securely waxed, to prevent evaporation and to protect the wounds from the sun (Fig. 1688). Cleft-grafting is> performed in early spring. The cions are taken some time previously from the last year's shoots. They are stored in a cellar or other cool place in order that they may be perfectly dormant. It is customary to cut them of three buds' length; but if the shoot is very long-jointed and if the variety is new or rare and the wood therefore scarce, they may be made of one or two buds. The wedge- shaped part should be somewhat thicker on the outside so that it may be clasped tightly in the cleft. (Fig. 1689). It is customary to have one bud near the top of the wedge. Although this bud is covered with wax, it is the most likely to grow, since it is nearest the source of food-supply and is less injured by external conditions. It pushes through the wax. It is customary to insert two cions in all stocks, even though only one branch is desired. By inserting two cions, the chances of success are doubled, and the wounds heal better if a twig grows on either side. After a year or two, one of the cions may be cut off if desired.
Cleft-grafting is the method usually employed in the top-grafting of fruit trees, as apples, pears, plums and cherries. Old peach trees are rarely changed over to a new variety. If they are, budding is employed, as already suggested: the limbs are headed back so that new wood is secured in which the buds may be set. It is important, in all top-working of fruit trees, to keep down the suckers which spring up around the cion, and which sometimes completely choke it. In changing over the top of a fruit tree, all the leading branches should be grafted (rig. 1690). It is well to stand at some distance from the tree and make a mental picture of how the tree will look when the new top is secured: the grafts should be set in approximately a radius from the center of the tree. It is rare that the stock should be larger than 2 inches in diameter where the cions are set. On some of the main branches it may be necessary to graft side branches lower down in order to fill the top and to afford footholds to pickers and pruners. It will require from three to four years to change over a tree in full bearing to a new variety. Each year a little more of the original top is removed, and the cions take more and more of the space.
Grafting-wax is of many kinds, but the most serviceable for applying with the hands in the open air is made by melting together one pound (by weight) of rendered tallow, two parts of beeswax and four parts of resin. The melted liquid is poured into a pail or tub of water, when it immediately hardens. It is then pulled until it is light-colored and develops a grain. It is then put away for future use, and will keep indefinitely. When the wax is used, the warmth of the hands will cause it to soften. The hands should be greased to prevent it from sticking.
For a softer wax, more tallow may be used; or linseed oil may be substituted, but because of adulteration of the oil the results are not always reliable.
Alcoholic waxes, or plastics, are sometimes made, to be applied with a brush or swab; on application, the alcohol disappears and the material hardens. A standard formula (Lefort's) is: best white resin, one pound; beef tallow, one ounce; melt, then remove from fire and add eight ounces alcohol. Keep in tightly closed bottles. .Sometimes a teaspoonful of turpentine is added.
Whip-grafting.
Whip-grafting, or tongue-grafting, is employed in the nursery and on very small stocks. It is not used in top-grafting except now and then on small limbs. The cion and stock should be of approximately equal size. Each is cut off in a slanting direction, and a split or tongue is made near the middle. The same shape is given to cion and stock. The pictures sufficiently illustrate how the work is done. (Figs. 1691-1693). The object of the tongue is to 1692. Whip- hold the parts together securely; it also graft, before presents more contact. The cion is then waxing. bound to the stock, preferably by means of waxed cord. If the graft is above ground, the wounds should be thoroughly waxed over the string. If the graft is below ground, the tie will be all that is necessary : the moist earth packed around the wound will prevent evaporation and protect it.
The chief use of the whip-graft is in root-grafting, which is employed largely on apples and mostly at the West. In the East, other things being equal, budded apple trees are preferred to root-grafted trees. In the West, however, it is necessary to have apple trees on roots of known hardiness. The seedling stocks are not of known hardiness, even though the seeds have come from the hardiest varieties. It is therefore customary to use cions 6 to 12 inches long, grafted on pieces of roots 2J4 to 4 inches long. (Fig. 1693.) The graft is set so deep that only the top bud of the cion projects above the surface. The piece of root acts as a nurse, and roots may start from the cion itself. (Fig. 1694.) When the tree is transferred to the orchard, the original root may be cut off in case it is not very vigorous; although this is not done if the union seems to be good and the foster roots are strong. This root-grafting is done in winter (December and January preferred); the grafts are stored in clean sawdust, sand or moss in a cool cellar, and are set in nursery rows in the open early in the spring, after the manner of grape-cuttings.
The waxed string, with which the whip-grafts are tied, may be made by dropping a ball of yarn into melted grafting-wax. In five minutes the wax will have penetrated the ball, but the strand can readily be unwound. The best material for this purpose is No. 18 knitting-cotton. This is strong enough to hold the work together, and yet weak enough so that it may be broken in the hands without cutting the fingers. It will ordinarily decay during the year, and thereby not interfere with the growth of the tree. If the grafting is performed in a room at a living temperature, the waxed string should be soft enough to stick to the stock without being tied. Four or five turns are made around the union. Waxed manilla paper, cut in narrow strips, is also used; also single strand cotton "chain" or warp-thread, either waxed or not waxed.
Any sharp knife with a handle large enough to be grasped readily is useful for whip-grafting. The blade should be thin, and the gteel of best quality. The handle should also be strong. Fig. 1695 shows a common form of grafting-knife. Good shoe-knives may be used. This and similar knives are in the market. A hone and whetstone should be near at hand, for the edge should be keen.
Veneer-grafting
This style of grafting, which is considerably used under glass with fancy and ornamental plants, consists in simply champering the sufaces of cion and stock and applying the one to the other. (Fig. 1696.) The cion is bound to the stock by raffia or other material. If
the graft is in the open, the wounds are thoroughly waxed; but in the house they may be covered merely with moss. This style of union is used with herbaceous plants, as well as on hard wood. Sometimes the stock is severed at the point of union, as in Fig. 1696; but in other eases it is not severed nor headed back until the cion has taken hold (Fig. 1697). In the latter case, the stock is not injured in case the graft does not grow.
Writing of the propagation of the tea plant under glass (which is suggestive for other plants in houses), Oliver says: "Seedling stocks may be grown in 4- or 5-inch pots for the reception of cions by the veneer method of grafting. To have the plants in perfect condition for working, it is necessary that they be grown from the seedling stage without a check, as the healthier the plant the better the chance of a successful union. Another important matter in this connection is that the stock plants should not be allowed to form matted roots in small pots; therefore, it will be found better to lift them from the nursery and put them in pots previous to the operation: or they may be gro%vn and (grafted while in garden flats. If this last-named method is chosen the plants should be situated far enough apart in the flats to be easily handled. If the grafting is performed while the stocks are in active growth, the union will take place more quickly than when the plants are in a dormant condition. The operation should be performed in the early part of spring. Fig. 1698 shows how the incision in the stem should be prepared. This should be made with a sharp knife and the cut at the deepest part should not be more than one- third of the diameter of the stem. The cion must be
shaped at the base so that it will fit neatly into the place prepared for it on the stock. It should then be tied, and afterward a small quantity of sphagnum moss should be tied over the part where the stock and cion come together. Immediately after the operation is l>erformed as above described, the plants should be placed in a close shaded propagat- ing-frame and kept there until the union is effected; this will take place in a few weeks. The temperature of the frame should then be kept uniformly at 60° to 65° F. If a layer of moss be put under the pots and the contents of the frame syringed occasionally a favorably humid atmosphere will result. Where greenhouse accommodations are not available for the propagating-frame a hotbed may be built out- of-doors in a location where the sun will not have much effect in raising the temperature. From 6 to 9 inches of stable litter and leaves will provide ample heat during the spring. When it is found that the cions have made connection with the stocks, air should gradually be admitted to the frames. Shortly after this the tops of the stocks may be cut off close to the cions. Planting out may be deferred till the cions have made their first growth."
A form of veneer-graft is what is sometimes called the side-graft. It is shown in Fig. 1699 (adapted from Oliver).
Cion-budding.
When a woody cion is inserted underneath the bark in the side of the stock, as a shield-bud is inserted, the method is sometime? known as cion-budding. In describing a simple way of propagating the fig, Oliver writes: "This method consists of preparing the stock for the reception of the cion as in shield-budding. This is done by making a transverse cut through the bark
¾ inch in length. From the middle of this incision another cut is made toward the main stem or root for fully an inch. The bark is then pried up as seen in Fig. 1700. Instead of inserting a single shield-bud, a small twig having one terminal and one or two lateral buds is used. The cion is prepared as follows: A long scarf is made at one side through the pith and a thin piece of the bark on the reverse side is removed. With
the long cut facing the stock the cion is pushed deeply into the place prepared for it, and is tied firmly with raffia. The corners of the bark of the stock are brought close to its own stem and bound firmly in that position. Melted grafting-wax should then be put on, or narrow strips of waxed cloth may be applied instead, to exclude air and moisture. If possible, the cions should be selected from branches not over ½ inch in diameter when they can be found of sufficient firmness of that thickness. Small lateral shoots having a terminal bud and only an inch or two in length and quite thin will unite by this method very easily. It is not necessary for the cions to be dormant, but they should be fully matured and the leaves cut off to about ½ inch from the buds. The bark slips readily from the time growth begins in spring, so that the operation may be performed at any period during late spring and summer. In the course of about two weeks after the operation is performed, if the cions remain fresh, the probabilities are that a union will have been effected. Part of the top of the stock may then be removed to induce the cion to start growth, and when it has made some headway the top of the stock may be cut off near the cion."
Bark-grafting.
Bark-grafting (Fig. 1701) is an excellent method of grafting fairly large limbs, since it does not injure the stock so much as does the cleft-graft. The cions are cut thin and inserted between the bark and wood. The bark is securely bound to hold it tight, and the entire surface is waxed, as in cleft-grafting. This method is called crown-grafting by the French and English.
This method is useful when it is necessary to graft very large limbs, for the stub does not need to be split and several cions may be set. When large limbs are broken from apple and pear trees, the stub may be trimmed and several cions set around it, to hasten the healing and to afford strong shoots with which to renew the part.
Herbaceous grafting.
Pelargoniums, chrysanthemums, cacti, and other soft-wooded greenhouse plants are sometimes grafted for the novelty of having more than one variety growing on the same root. Probably most herbaceous plants can be grafted readily, with the exception of the endogens, which do not lend themselves to the operation, although there are examples in which grafting has been successful on them. To succeed with an herbaceous cion, it is necessary that the room be rather close and moist, so that evaporation will not be very rapid. One should endeavor to secure the general conditions that obtain in a good propagating-house. The temperature should be kept rather below the normal for that species until union has taken place. It is usually best to cover the union with moss or some other material to protect the wound and to check evaporation. Best results are secured when the cion is firm in texture, as also in the case of herbaceous cuttings. The kind of graft is of less importance, although it is customary to use the veneer-graft cions. since there is less injury to the stock and the outer surfaces are easily applied to each other. The cion ordinarily consists of one or two joints, and if the leaves are large, they are cut in two, as in the making of softwood cuttings.
Inarching, or grafting by approach.
In those cases in which union takes place with much difficulty, it is possible to effect the conjunction by allowing the cion to grow fast to the stock before it is severed from its own roots. The plant which it is desired to have grow on the stock is bent over to the stock, the sur- grafting, faces of the two are exposed so that the cambiums may be pressed close together, and the two are then bound until union takes place. In some cases a tongue is made in both the cion and the stock, much as in whip-grafting, so that the surface of contact is greater and the parts are held together more securely. When the cion has become thoroughly established on the stock, the cion is severed from its own root and the top of the stock is cut off. This inarching or grafting by approach is also used in the greenhouse when it is desired to transfer the whole top or the whole branch of one plant to another. The illustration (Fig. 1702) shows such a case. Inarching is not much employed in this country in a commercial way.
Inarching is sometimes employed to unite two branches into one for the purpose of making a specimen fruit grow larger. If, for example, a twig of an apple tree is inarched into a limb just back of a fruit, the extra food-supply may cause that fruit to grow larger, and a finer specimen may be secured. This use of the graft is employed only for the purpose of securing extra-fine specimens for exhibition or other purposes.
The seedling-inarch has recently been described in detail by Oliver (Bull. No. 202, Bur. PI. Ind., U. S. Dept. Agric.). Such difficult subjects as the mangosteen, litchi and mango respond readily to this method. The idea is to inarch a very young seedling on an older stock, thereby saving time and securing more wood for further propagation. "Seedlings raised from seeds of new and rare trees, shrubs, and vines may be induced to grow very quickly if used as cions when a few weeks old by inarching to strong-growing plants of other species of the same genus or in some oases on species of other genera of the same family. This has been done recently with such plants as chestnuts, walnuts, hawthorns, oaks, and many others. It is not necessarily done for the purpose of hastening the flowering or the fruiting of new plants, but to give quickly an abundance of material for propagation by budding or grafting when the new material is assumed to be valuable. If a hardwood seedling of hybrid origin is tied to a large stock and they fail to unite, there is little or no danger of losing the seedling, provided its roots are kept damp during the period of making the attempt. If the inarch is not successful, the seedling can be repotted and grown in the usual way."
In Fig. 1703 is shown the method of seedling-inarch. A rose seedling is grown near the side of a pot, it having been pricked off into a 2-inch pot shortly after the cotyledons are developed; it is next shown, after two or three weeks' growth, removed from the pot and tied in a cloth to facilitate handling, a little fresh soil being held in place by the covering; the ball is then secured to the stock, and the seedling is inarched by chamfering the surfaces in contact. When union is complete, the root of the seedling is removed.
Literature.
For further discussion of the whole subject of grafting, the reader is referred to current works on fruit- growing; also to the two American special books on the subject—Fuller's "Propagation of Plants" and Bailey's "Nursery-Book." In English, Baltet's "Budding and Grafting" is standard. It is an English version of "L'Art de Greffer." L. H. B.
[[Image:Apple tree grafting 3.jpg|thumb|400px|Numerous grafts in one spot.]]
[[Image:Apple tree grafting 3.jpg|thumb|400px|Numerous grafts in one spot.]]
