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Potting. The first stage in the life of the plant is when the seedling is transplanted from the seed-bed or the cutting is put in the cutting-bench. It is only when either is potted that it can truly be said to take on the dignity of a plant. It is then out of swaddling clothes and enters the ranks of its big brothers and sisters, on the way to making its bow in society; to live perchance in the window of the tenement or on the fire- escape; mayhap to refresh the eye of the patient in the sick-room: or to lose its identity in rows of its fellows in great glass houses where the blossoms are garnered and sent to market; perhaps to take its place in row upon row of its kind and make an arabesque pattern or gay border, and so delight the eye or regale the senses with sweet odors.
Potting. The first stage in the life of the plant is when the seedling is transplanted from the seed-bed or the cutting is put in the cutting-bench. It is only when either is potted that it can truly be said to take on the dignity of a plant. It is then out of swaddling clothes and enters the ranks of its big brothers and sisters, on the way to making its bow in society; to live perchance in the window of the tenement or on the fire- escape; mayhap to refresh the eye of the patient in the sick-room: or to lose its identity in rows of its fellows in great glass houses where the blossoms are garnered and sent to market; perhaps to take its place in row upon row of its kind and make an arabesque pattern or gay border, and so delight the eye or regale the senses with sweet odors.
"Knocking out" is the technical term used by florists to describe the turning of a plant out of a pot. The best way to do this is to take the pot in the right hand, invert it in passing it to the left, as the plant should be placed between the index and middle fingers of the left hand, give the pot a smart tap on its rim on the edge of the bench and the ball of soil is separated from the pot; place the plant in a flat ready for the purpose, and repeat. One tap is all that is necessary in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred. It is bad practice to get into the habit of giving a series of taps, as it makes slow work. We are considering now the first shift, i. e., from a 2-inch to a 3-inch pot.
"Knocking out" is the technical term used by florists to describe the turning of a plant out of a pot. The best way to do this is to take the pot in the right hand, invert it in passing it to the left, as the plant should be placed between the index and middle fingers of the left hand, give the pot a smart tap on its rim on the edge of the bench and the ball of soil is separated from the pot; place the plant in a flat ready for the purpose, and repeat. One tap is all that is necessary in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred. It is bad practice to get into the habit of giving a series of taps, as it makes slow work. We are considering now the first shift, i. e., from a 2-inch to a 3-inch pot.
The plants having been knocked out, the next operation is to "shoulder" them. This consists of removing
The plants having been knocked out, the next operation is to "shoulder" them. This consists of removing the shoulder or edge of the ball of soil with the thumb and forefinger down to where the roots begin. The object of this is obvious, to remove leachcd-out soil and supply a fresh, nutritious portion in its place, so as to get the greatest possible advantage from shifting. Everything being made ready, the operator proceeds by putting a portion of soil in the bottom of the pot sufficient to raise the ball of soil flush with the edge of the pot. As this is being done, reach for the plant with the left hand and put it in the center of the pot; simultaneously take a handful of soil in the right hand and fill the pot, then grasp the pot between the index and middle fingers of each hand, place the thumbs on each side of the plant at right angles with the body, lift the pot about 1/2 inch and set it back on the bench with a smart rap, pressing with the thumbs at the same time; change the thumbs to right angles with their former position and press again, then change so as to press where they have not touched already; three pressures of the thumbs and the rap on the bench, and the operation is done. A smart operator with two boys will shift 5,000 plants in ten hours. This amount of work is made possible only by eliminating all unnecessary motions and making them synchronous with each hand in reaching for soil, pot, and plant as described. One hand should not be idle while the other is employed. See Figs.3168-3172 for good and bad examples of potting.
the shoulder or edge of the ball of soil with the thumb and forefinger down to where the roots begin. (Fig. 3167.) The object of this is obvious, to remove leachcd-out soil and supply a fresh, nutritious portion in its place, so as to get the greatest possible advantage from shifting. Everything being made ready, the operator proceeds by putting a portion of soil in the bottom of the pot sufficient to raise the ball of soil flush with the edge of the pot. As this is being done, reach for the plant with the left hand and put it in the center of the pot; simultaneously take a handful of soil in the right hand and fill the pot, then grasp the pot between the index and middle fingers of each hand, place the thumbs on each side of the plant at right angles with the body, lift the pot about 1/2 inch and set it back on the bench with a smart rap, pressing with the thumbs at the same time; change the thumbs to right angles with their former position and press again, then change so as to press where they have not touched already; three pressures of the thumbs and the rap on the bench, and the operation is done. A smart operator with two boys will shift 5,000 plants in ten hours. This amount of work is made possible only by eliminating all unnecessary motions and making them synchronous with each hand in reaching for soil, pot, and plant as described. One hand should not be idle while the other is employed. See Figs.3168-3172 for good and bad examples of potting.
Be careful in shifting not to set the plants too deep. The tendency of roots is downward, and only enough of the stem to steady the plant in the pot should be in the soil Plants set too deeply in the pots are easily over- watered, because so much soil is not within the influence of root-action. A few plants which root from the crown, like lilies, should be set deeper than such plants as roses, geraniums, fuchsias, palms, and all plants whose root-action is mainly downward.
Be careful in shifting not to set the plants too deep. The tendency of roots is downward, and only enough of the stem to steady the plant in the pot should be in the soil Plants set too deeply in the pots are easily over- watered, because so much soil is not within the influence of root-action. A few plants which root from the crown, like lilies, should be set deeper than such plants as roses, geraniums, fuchsias, palms, and all plants whose root-action is mainly downward.
Drainage is necessary in all pots over 4 inches and for hard-wooded plants even that size is better drained.
Drainage is necessary in all pots over 4 inches and for hard-wooded plants even that size is better drained.
This is technically called "crocking," i. e., placing pot-sherds in the bottom of the pot to allow the quick passage of water and admit air to the roots. Place a large piece over the hole in the bottom of the pot and the remainder in smaller pieces. There are usually enough broken pots around a place to supply the needs. Charcoal is an excellent material for supplying pot-drainage, none better. An inch or so of drainage is sufficient in a 5- or 6-inch pot, 2 inches or so for all sizes above these. A bottom of broken stone, cinders or gravel is essential upon which to stand the pots, as such a stratum accelerates drainage, while at the same time providing a moist surface so beneficial to plants in a greenhouse.
This is technically called "crocking," i. e., placing pot-sherds in the bottom of the pot to allow the quick passage of water and admit air to the roots. Place a large piece over the hole in the bottom of the pot and the remainder in smaller pieces. There are usually enough broken pots around a place to supply the needs. Charcoal is an excellent material for supplying pot-drainage, none better. An inch or so of drainage is sufficient in a 5- or 6-inch pot, 2 inches or so for all sizes above these. A bottom of broken stone, cinders or gravel is essential upon which to stand the pots, as such a stratum accelerates drainage, while at the same time providing a moist surface so beneficial to plants in a greenhouse.
Repotting is necessary frequently when plants have become pot-bound, or when from any cause they appear to require it; such, for instance, as debility from over- shifting, over-watering or neglect of any kind. In such cases the soil should be washed from the roots almost entirely and the plant put into a pot a size or two smaller than it has been growing in, taking care to firm the soil well, and if a shrubby plant prune it back according to its needs and conditions. Shade such plants until danger of wilting is past and water sparingly until new and vigorous growths appear, showing that the subjects have regained their normal health.
Repotting is necessary frequently when plants have become pot-bound, or when from any cause they appear to require it; such, for instance, as debility from over- shifting, over-watering or neglect of any kind. In such cases the soil should be washed from the roots almost entirely and the plant put into a pot a size or two smaller than it has been growing in, taking care to firm the soil well, and if a shrubby plant prune it back according to its needs and conditions. Shade such plants until danger of wilting is past and water sparingly until new and vigorous growths appear, showing that the subjects have regained their normal health.
There are a few cultural details intimately associated with potting which may with profit be added as a closing paragraph. The high narrow pot shown on the extreme right of the line of pots in Fig. 3160 is frequently used for roses and palms by some, especially for Cocos Weddelliana, which makes a long tap-root and which it is almost invariably fatal to break. It is feasible, however, to avoid this if the seeds are sown in 6-inch pots, using 4 inches of clinkers as a bottom. These check the downward growth and induce development of fibrous roots in the soil, so that the tap-root may be cut off below them and the ordinary 2-inch pot used with safety. It is not necessary to use the deep pot for roses in any case. Plants which exceed the diameter of the pot should be given room to allow for development. The best market growers plunge the pots in soil to half their depth, as it is necessary in the spring months because of the rapid evaporation of water. This refers especially to geraniums, fuchsias, heliotropes, petunias, and the like. Care must be taken, however, to lift them occasionally so as to prevent the roots from getting hold in the soil through the hole in the bottom of the pot. Ten inches apart, from center to
There are a few cultural details intimately associated with potting which may with profit be added as a closing paragraph. The high narrow pot shown on the extreme right of the line of pots in Fig. 3160 is frequently used for roses and palms by some, especially for Cocos Weddelliana, which makes a long tap-root and which it is almost invariably fatal to break. It is feasible, however, to avoid this if the seeds are sown in 6-inch pots, using 4 inches of clinkers as a bottom. These check the downward growth and induce development of fibrous roots in the soil, so that the tap-root may be cut off below them and the ordinary 2-inch pot used with safety. It is not necessary to use the deep pot for roses in any case. Plants which exceed the diameter of the pot should be given room to allow for development. The best market growers plunge the pots in soil to half their depth, as it is necessary in the spring months because of the rapid evaporation of water. This refers especially to geraniums, fuchsias, heliotropes, petunias, and the like. Care must be taken, however, to lift them occasionally so as to prevent the roots from getting hold in the soil through the hole in the bottom of the pot. Ten inches apart, from center to center for such plants will not be too much if stocky plants well set with good flowers are wanted; and in these days such plants will bring enough in the best markets to pay for the space and trouble. For 2- and 3-inch pots use sifted soil, but for 4-inch and over; soil well broken, but having plenty of fiber from sod in it, should be used. Always water plants thoroughly aftershifting so as to soak the soil to the bottom, and do not water again until they show dryness half way down the pot on the outside.
center for such plants will not be too much if stocky plants well set with good flowers are wanted; and in these days such plants will bring enough in the best markets to pay for the space and trouble. For 2- and 3-inch pots use sifted soil, but for 4-inch and over; soil well broken, but having plenty of fiber from sod in it, should be used. Always water plants thoroughly aftershifting so as to soak the soil to the bottom, and do not water again until they show dryness half way down the pot on the outside. Patrick O'mara.
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==Gallery==
==Gallery==
