Changes

From Gardenology.org - Plant Encyclopedia and Gardening Wiki
Jump to navigationJump to search
10,645 bytes added ,  12:45, 15 December 2009
no edit summary
Line 1: Line 1:  +
{{SPlantbox
 +
|Min ht metric=cm
 +
|Temp Metric=°F
 +
|jumpin=This is the plant information box - for information on light; water; zones; height; etc. If it is mostly empty you can help grow this page by clicking on the edit tab and filling in the blanks!
 +
|image=Upload.png
 +
|image_width=240
 +
}}
 +
{{Inc|
 +
Rhubarb. A garden vegetable, perennial, grown for the thick acid
 +
leaf-stalks which are used in spring for sauces and pies: Rheum
 +
Rhaponticum, which see, page 2927.
 +
 +
Rhubarb, known also as pie-plant, is a hardy plant and will withstand
 +
considerable neglect, yet, like most cultivated vegetables, it responds
 +
readily to proper care and good treatment. The large fleshy leaf-stems
 +
desired in culinary use are produced in part by the great store of
 +
plant-food held in reserve by the many big roots. Everything should be
 +
done to increase this supply of reserve food. Tillage and fertilizing,
 +
therefore, are fundamentals. In the choosing of a site a southern
 +
exposure is preferred, with sufficient slope to give good drainage.
 +
Plow the ground 6 to 8 inches deep, draw furrows 5 feet apart, set the
 +
plants 3 feet apart, with the buds 1 inch below the level of the
 +
ground. In home grounds, spade or trench the land deep, and set about 4
 +
feet apart each way; or if in only one row or line with plenty of room
 +
on either side, the plants may go 3 feet or even as close as 2 1/2 feet
 +
if they are well manured and often renewed. If the soil lacks in
 +
fertility, mix compost with the earth that is placed about the roots;
 +
never put fresh manure next to the roots. As soon after planting as
 +
possible, start the cultivator, and give a thorough stirring at
 +
intervals of six to eight days up to the middle or last of August.
 +
After the ground is frozen, cover the rows 3 to 4 inches deep with
 +
manure that is as free as possible from weed and grass seed. As early
 +
in the spring as the ground can be worked to advantage, start the
 +
cultivator and work the manure into the soil. Each alternate season the
 +
surface of the soil should have a good dressing of manure. For garden
 +
culture, a similar practice should be undertaken with the hoe or other
 +
hand tools.
 +
 +
In field culture, the third or fourth year after planting the hills
 +
should be divided. Remove the earth from one side of the hill and with
 +
a sharp spade cut through the crown, leaving three or four buds in the
 +
hill undisturbed. This work should be done in the fall or early in the
 +
spring. In garden culture, the teds should be similarly renewed, at
 +
least as often as every four or five years, but more pains may be taken
 +
in dividing the plants. The clumps of roots grow so large, and have so
 +
many eyes, that the stalks soon become more numerous than desirable,
 +
and run down in size. Take up the entire roots and cut them in pieces,
 +
leaving only one strong eye to the piece, and plant the pieces in a
 +
newly prepared bed (or even in the old one if properly enriched and
 +
prepared)4 feet apart each way as before.
 +
 +
Seed-stems are produced freely the entire season These should be
 +
promptly pulled up, unless seed is wanted. The growth of these stems
 +
and the production of seed tend to lessen the vitality of the plant and
 +
to reduce the yield.
 +
Propagation of rhubarb is commonly by division the roots, and this is
 +
the only method by which a par-ticular type can be increased.
 +
Propagation from seed, however, sometimes proves satisfactory, and
 +
always interesting as the seedlings vary greatly. The seed germinates
 +
easily, and if started early the plant become fairly large and strong
 +
the same season. The may be started in any good clean garden soil. Sow
 +
seed in early spring, in rows a foot apart and not over an inch deep.
 +
Thin the plants promptly to stand a few inches apart in the rows, and
 +
give the same thorough tillage allowed to other garden crops. In the
 +
following fall or spring take the seedlings up, and set them in the
 +
well-prepared per-manent patch, not less than 4 feet apart each way,
 +
and till frequently the entire season. In spring of the next year the
 +
stalks may be pulled freely.
 +
 +
From ten to twenty good plants should supply the needs of the usual
 +
family, and probably with something to spare for the neighbors.
 +
Sometimes an early supply is secured by placing a bottomless barrel or
 +
box over the plant and piling warm horse-manure about it. If the
 +
barrel, keg, or box is not too broad, the petioles will make a straight
 +
upright growth and will be partially blanched and very tender. Victoria
 +
and Linnaeus are the leading varieties.          L. H. B.
 +
 +
Forcing of rhubarb.
 +
 +
In the winter and early spring months, the forcing of rhubarb in the
 +
vicinity of many city markets is a profitable industry. The plant may
 +
be forced either in the field where the roots were grown or lifted and
 +
placed in hotbeds, under greenhouse benches or in cellars. The bulk of
 +
the rhubarb forced for market and sold during the winter months is
 +
grown in cheap structures placed over the plants in the field. These
 +
houses may be of the lean-to type, although they are more commonly
 +
even-span post and rafter construction, the roof being covered with
 +
hotbed sash which is not needed for other purposes at the time. The
 +
side walls are 4 to 5 feet high, made of rough boards and covered with
 +
cheap building-paper. The even-span houses are mostly 24 to 36 feet
 +
wide and the lean-to house half that width. Heat is usually applied in
 +
an overhead system, steam being the most popular, although late in the
 +
season the sun is depended upon to supply the required amount of heat.
 +
When forced in the field in limited quantities, coldframes are often
 +
used, the outside walls being well banked with hot manure and the
 +
surface of the ground within the frames covered with 3 to 6 inches of
 +
the same material.
 +
 +
Beds intended for early spring forcing should be thoroughly cultivated
 +
in the fall and an application made of high-grade commercial fertilizer
 +
of 800 to 1,000 pounds to the acre. When growth starts, a dressing of
 +
nitrate of soda at the rate of one-half pound to a crown should be
 +
given. In field forcing, the moisture of the soil is usually sufficient
 +
so that no water is applied. When it is the intention to use a field
 +
for forcing for several years, the plants are usually set 2 by 3 feet
 +
and the land fertilized heavily each spring with a compost, one made
 +
from cow- and hog-manure being preferred. The sash are placed upon the
 +
first houses as soon as the roots have been frozen, five to seven weeks
 +
being necessary to bring the plants to maturity.
 +
 +
In field forcing, the cost of production is often greatly reduced by
 +
growing spinach or dandelion between the
 +
rows, the price obtained for these fillers usually being sufficient to
 +
pay labor and maintenance costs. The stalks are usually pulled twice,
 +
returning to the grower from $1 to $2 a sash, depending upon the season
 +
when placed upon the market.
 +
 +
Roots for forcing in the dark should be healthy and vigorous; the
 +
larger the roots the more satisfactory the results as a general rule.
 +
Crowns three to five years of age are mostly used, although
 +
satisfactory results are often obtained from one-year-old plants which
 +
have been grown on very rich land and have made an unchecked growth
 +
during the season. The roots should be dug early in the fall before the
 +
ground freezes and allowed to remain exposed to the weather until they
 +
are frozen solid when they should either be removed to a shed or
 +
covered with litter in the field to prevent alternate freezing and
 +
thawing. Thorough freezing is necessary, whatever the method of
 +
forcing, if the best resulte are to be obtained. With one-year roots
 +
very satisfactory results are sometimes secured if the roots are
 +
thoroughly dried before forcing. Anesthetics have been tried as a
 +
substitute for freezing but with unsatisfactory results. When used upon
 +
frozen roots they stimulate growth, resulting in the production of
 +
earlier and larger stalks with greater total weight of product. If the
 +
greatest benefit is to be derived from the anesthetic, it must be used
 +
in the early part of the resting-period. The most satisfactory results
 +
have been obtained by the use of 10 cubic centimeters of sulfuric ether
 +
to a cubic foot of space, exposing the roots to the fumes for
 +
forty-eight hours. Well-grown two-year-old roots seem to respond to
 +
this treatment in the most satisfactory way.
 +
 +
As soon as the roots are placed in position, whether it be under the
 +
greenhouse benches or in the cellar, all spaces should be filled with
 +
soil or ashes to prevent evaporation. If placed on a concrete floor, 2
 +
or 3 inches of soil should be placed under the roots and sufficient
 +
material should be added completely to cover the roots. The bed as soon
 +
as completed should be thoroughly watered, the plants kept supplied
 +
with an abundance of moisture, which will necessitate water being
 +
applied about once a week. Care should be taken to guard against
 +
over-watering as this will result in the production of light-colored
 +
stalks, lacking in flavor and texture. In order to obtain the most
 +
attractive product, rhubarb should not be forced in full light or total
 +
darkness. If grown in diffused light, the development of the leaf-blade
 +
is very slight and the color of the stalk, instead of being green, is a
 +
beautiful dark cherry-red, giving to the product a very attractive
 +
appearance. In quality the product is superior to that forced in light,
 +
being more tender, less acid, with a skin so thin and tender as to make
 +
it unnecessary to peel the stalks. The temperature may range from 45°
 +
to 75°, the lower the temperature the greater the yield and higher the
 +
quality of the product. The time required for bringing a crop to
 +
maturity in darkness is practically the same as that required for
 +
forcing in the field.
 +
 +
Local market demands to a certain extent govern the method which is
 +
used in growing this crop for the winter market. When grown by any
 +
method which requires the lifting of the roots, it must be remembered
 +
that they are worthless after having produced a crop. Therefore, this
 +
method cannot be practised with as great profit upon expensive land as
 +
can the method of field forcing or when roots were used for forcing
 +
which otherwise would be destroyed. Rhubarb-forcing in house cellars
 +
should receive more attention, as it adds at slight expense a pleasing
 +
vegetable to the winter dietary.
 +
 +
Whatever the method practised, success will be attained only when
 +
healthy well-developed roots, which have been allowed to freeze, are
 +
used.                                                       
 +
G. E. Adams.
 +
}}
 +
 
{{dablink|For other uses see [[Rhubarb (disambiguation)]]}}
 
{{dablink|For other uses see [[Rhubarb (disambiguation)]]}}
 
{{Taxobox
 
{{Taxobox
2,455

edits

Navigation menu