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In dealing with the culture of amaryllis, it is customary to speak of the genus in its horticultural sense, —to include hippeastrum and related things. Such is the understanding in the following cultural directions. There are two widely differing methods of cultivating the amaryllis to produce showy flowers in the spring months,—the border method and the pot method. Any one trying both of these methods will soon come to the conclusion that they differ not only in method, but in flower-producing results. The first method is to plant the bulbs in a prepared border after they are done flowering, say about the middle of May. The border should have perfect drainage, and, if convenient, be on the south side of a house or wall, fully exposed to the sun during the greater part of the day. The bulbs are set out in rows, necessarily with as little disturbance of the roots as possible, because, if they are bulbs that have undergone similar treatment the previous year, by the middle of May they have made a considerable number of new roots; besides, the foliage also has gained some headway, and may be considered as in actual growth. In planting, carefully firm the soil around the old balls, give one watering, and on the succeeding day, after the surface of the soil has been raked over, cover to the depth of 2 inches with half- decayed cow-manure. With frequent waterings during the summer and the removal of weeds, they will need no more attention until the approach of cool weather, when they should be lifted, sized, and potted; however, at this season, I wet weather has predominated, some of the bulbs will be in a semi-dormant state, while the majority will yet be in active growth. Here is the drawback to this method : The roots are large and fleshy, they take up considerable room in a 6- or 7-inch pot, and the soil cannot be evenly distributed amongst them, neither can it be made as firm as it should be. The result is the partial decay of the roots and leaves, and in the spring, when the flower scapes appear, they are developed at the expense of the bulb, through having insufficient roots to take up nourishment from the soil. The flowers are small, few in number, and do not show what the plant is capable of. Partly to ameliorate these conditions, the bulbs in active growth at lifting time may be heeled-in on a greenhouse bench until they gradually ripen, taking care that some of the soil is retained on the roots; otherwise the ripening process is altogether too rapid, so that the roots and leaves suddenly lose their robust nature, become flabby, and eventually die. For this method, it can be said that a larger number of bulbs can be grown with less trouble than by the pot method, but neither bulbs nor flowers compare in size with those kept in pots the year round. For the purpose of merely increasing stock, the outdoor method is to be preferred.—Most of the kinds are naturally evergreen; potting under those conditions is best done either after the plants have made their growth in the fall or after they have finished flowering in April. When done in the fall, they are allowed to remain rather dry during the winter; this will keep the soil of the original ball in a sweet condition until the time arrives to start them into growth, which may be anywhere after the first of January, or even earlier if necessary. They will winter all right, and keep their foliage, in a brick frame in which the temperature is not allowed to fall below 45° F. By the beginning of February, in a structure of this sort, they will be showing flower- scapes, and should then be taken to a position in which more heat and light can be given. A weak solution of cow-manure will much help the development of the flowers. When in bloom, a greenhouse temperature, with slight shade, will prolong the flowering period. After flowering, the greatest care should be taken of the plants, as it is from that period till the end of summer that the principal growth is made. A heavy loam, enriched with bone-dust and rotted cow-manure, suits them well.—The seeds of hippeastrums should be sown as soon as ripe, covered very lightly with finely sifted leaf-mold, and, it this shows a tendency to dry too quickly, cover with panes of glass until germination takes place. As soon as the first leaves are developed, they should be potted in the smallest sized pots and kept growing.—In the propagation of varieties, it will be found that the large bulbs make two or more offsets each season; these should not be detached until it is certain that they have enough roots of their own to start with after being separated from the parent. If a well-flowered specimen clump is desired, the offsets may be allowed to remain attached to the parent; they will, in most cases, flower the second year under generous treatment.—Amaryllis Belladonna and the plant known as .A.longifolia (really a crinum) are hardy in the District of-Columbia; A. longifolia thrives even in damp, heavy soils, with no protection, and flowers abundantly each year. A. Belladonna needs a warm, sheltered spot, with deep planting. This popular autumn-blooming plant succeeds best where it can remain out-of-doors all the year. It seems to thrive in fairly rich sandy loam. A position facing south near the wall of house or by the side of a greenhouse seems to suit its requirements. In rather dry soils where frost does not penetrate deeply, it is not necessary to lift the tubers each year.  

In dealing with the culture of amaryllis, it is customary to speak of the genus in its horticultural sense, —to include hippeastrum and related things. Such is the understanding in the following cultural directions. There are two widely differing methods of cultivating the amaryllis to produce showy flowers in the spring months,—the border method and the pot method. Any one trying both of these methods will soon come to the conclusion that they differ not only in method, but in flower-producing results. The first method is to plant the bulbs in a prepared border after they are done flowering, say about the middle of May. The border should have perfect drainage, and, if convenient, be on the south side of a house or wall, fully exposed to the sun during the greater part of the day. The bulbs are set out in rows, necessarily with as little disturbance of the roots as possible, because, if they are bulbs that have undergone similar treatment the previous year, by the middle of May they have made a considerable number of new roots; besides, the foliage also has gained some headway, and may be considered as in actual growth. In planting, carefully firm the soil around the old balls, give one watering, and on the succeeding day, after the surface of the soil has been raked over, cover to the depth of 2 inches with half- decayed cow-manure. With frequent waterings during the summer and the removal of weeds, they will need no more attention until the approach of cool weather, when they should be lifted, sized, and potted; however, at this season, I wet weather has predominated, some of the bulbs will be in a semi-dormant state, while the majority will yet be in active growth. Here is the drawback to this method : The roots are large and fleshy, they take up considerable room in a 6- or 7-inch pot, and the soil cannot be evenly distributed amongst them, neither can it be made as firm as it should be. The result is the partial decay of the roots and leaves, and in the spring, when the flower scapes appear, they are developed at the expense of the bulb, through having insufficient roots to take up nourishment from the soil. The flowers are small, few in number, and do not show what the plant is capable of. Partly to ameliorate these conditions, the bulbs in active growth at lifting time may be heeled-in on a greenhouse bench until they gradually ripen, taking care that some of the soil is retained on the roots; otherwise the ripening process is altogether too rapid, so that the roots and leaves suddenly lose their robust nature, become flabby, and eventually die. For this method, it can be said that a larger number of bulbs can be grown with less trouble than by the pot method, but neither bulbs nor flowers compare in size with those kept in pots the year round. For the purpose of merely increasing stock, the outdoor method is to be preferred.—Most of the kinds are naturally evergreen; potting under those conditions is best done either after the plants have made their growth in the fall or after they have finished flowering in April. When done in the fall, they are allowed to remain rather dry during the winter; this will keep the soil of the original ball in a sweet condition until the time arrives to start them into growth, which may be anywhere after the first of January, or even earlier if necessary. They will winter all right, and keep their foliage, in a brick frame in which the temperature is not allowed to fall below 45° F. By the beginning of February, in a structure of this sort, they will be showing flower- scapes, and should then be taken to a position in which more heat and light can be given. A weak solution of cow-manure will much help the development of the flowers. When in bloom, a greenhouse temperature, with slight shade, will prolong the flowering period. After flowering, the greatest care should be taken of the plants, as it is from that period till the end of summer that the principal growth is made. A heavy loam, enriched with bone-dust and rotted cow-manure, suits them well.—The seeds of hippeastrums should be sown as soon as ripe, covered very lightly with finely sifted leaf-mold, and, it this shows a tendency to dry too quickly, cover with panes of glass until germination takes place. As soon as the first leaves are developed, they should be potted in the smallest sized pots and kept growing.—In the propagation of varieties, it will be found that the large bulbs make two or more offsets each season; these should not be detached until it is certain that they have enough roots of their own to start with after being separated from the parent. If a well-flowered specimen clump is desired, the offsets may be allowed to remain attached to the parent; they will, in most cases, flower the second year under generous treatment.—Amaryllis Belladonna and the plant known as .A.longifolia (really a crinum) are hardy in the District of-Columbia; A. longifolia thrives even in damp, heavy soils, with no protection, and flowers abundantly each year. A. Belladonna needs a warm, sheltered spot, with deep planting. This popular autumn-blooming plant succeeds best where it can remain out-of-doors all the year. It seems to thrive in fairly rich sandy loam. A position facing south near the wall of house or by the side of a greenhouse seems to suit its requirements. In rather dry soils where frost does not penetrate deeply, it is not necessary to lift the tubers each year.  

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