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The chief value of boronias is their delicious fragrance. A small specimen will perfume a whole house for two or three weeks. Boronias are cultivated like Cape heaths in a cool greenhouse. After flowering they should be cut back, in order to make compact, bushy specimens. The leading shoots may be frequently pinched, to prevent a straggling growth. As most of them are native of barren sandy places, not bogs, good drainage is necessary. "Sour" soil is very disastrous to them. The English florists set their young plants in the open ground during summer, being careful to shade them with lath frames. Plants that have flowered two seasons are thrown away and replaced by younger specimens. They are propagated by cuttings from half-ripened wood inserted in 4-inch pots, which are filled to within an inch of the top with a compost of finely sifted loam, peat and sand, over which is spread a layer of sharp sand. After a thorough watering, they may be placed under a bell-glass in a greenhouse in which the temperature ranges from 45° to 50° F., and shaded from right sunshine. Seeds germinate readily in the same temperature, and make good flowering plants in one season. Seeds can be obtained from German or Australian dealers, large quantities being collected in the wild. Boronias belong to a large class of hard-wooded Australian plants that were popular along with the Cape heaths in the early part of the nineteenth century. These were largely replaced by quicker-growing, soft-wooded plants. The renewed interest in boronias is largely due to the more recently introduced species, of which the first three described below are the best. American florists have lately grown them somewhat for Easter, especially B. helerophylla. Many species are likely to be introduced, as these shrubs are very brilliant in Australia, blooming when very young, and remaining attractive for two or three months.  

The chief value of boronias is their delicious fragrance. A small specimen will perfume a whole house for two or three weeks. Boronias are cultivated like Cape heaths in a cool greenhouse. After flowering they should be cut back, in order to make compact, bushy specimens. The leading shoots may be frequently pinched, to prevent a straggling growth. As most of them are native of barren sandy places, not bogs, good drainage is necessary. "Sour" soil is very disastrous to them. The English florists set their young plants in the open ground during summer, being careful to shade them with lath frames. Plants that have flowered two seasons are thrown away and replaced by younger specimens. They are propagated by cuttings from half-ripened wood inserted in 4-inch pots, which are filled to within an inch of the top with a compost of finely sifted loam, peat and sand, over which is spread a layer of sharp sand. After a thorough watering, they may be placed under a bell-glass in a greenhouse in which the temperature ranges from 45° to 50° F., and shaded from right sunshine. Seeds germinate readily in the same temperature, and make good flowering plants in one season. Seeds can be obtained from German or Australian dealers, large quantities being collected in the wild. Boronias belong to a large class of hard-wooded Australian plants that were popular along with the Cape heaths in the early part of the nineteenth century. These were largely replaced by quicker-growing, soft-wooded plants. The renewed interest in boronias is largely due to the more recently introduced species, of which the first three described below are the best. American florists have lately grown them somewhat for Easter, especially B. helerophylla. Many species are likely to be introduced, as these shrubs are very brilliant in Australia, blooming when very young, and remaining attractive for two or three months.  

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