Difference between revisions of "Medinilla"

From Gardenology.org - Plant Encyclopedia and Gardening Wiki
Jump to navigationJump to search
(Created page with '{{SPlantbox |genus=Medinilla |Min ht metric=cm |Temp Metric=°F |jumpin=This is the plant information box - for information on light; water; zones; height; etc. If it is mostly e…')
(No difference)

Revision as of 18:44, 4 January 2010


Upload.png


Plant Characteristics
Cultivation
Scientific Names

Medinilla >


This is the plant information box - for information on light; water; zones; height; etc. If it is mostly empty you can help grow this page by clicking on the edit tab and filling in the blanks!"This is the plant information box - for information on light; water; zones; height; etc. If it is mostly empty you can help grow this page by clicking on the edit tab and filling in the blanks!" is not in the list (If this plant info box on watering; zones; height; etc. is mostly empty you can click on the edit tab and fill in the blanks!) of allowed values for the "Jump in" property.



Read about Medinilla in the Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture 

Medinilla (after Jose de Medinilla y Pineda, governor of the Ladrones). Melastomaceae. Choice warmhouse plants with showy flowers and often with showy bracts and foliage.

Medinilla is distinguished from allied genera (none of which has garden value) chiefly by the curious appendages of the stamens. The stamens are 8, 10 or 12 (twice as many as the petals); the anterior connective 2-lobed or 2-spurred, the posterior one usually setose or 1-2-lobed or 1-spurred: branching shrubs, erect or climbing: lvs. mostly opposite or whorled, entire, often fleshy: fls. white or rose, with or without bracts, in panicles or cymes: fr. a berry crowned by the calyx- limb.—Species 125 and more, in tropical parts of E. Asia, Afr., and the Pacific region, many of them in the Philippines. Those prominently described below have opposite lvs. and mostly 5-merous fls.

Medinillas are amongst the handsomest and most striking of flowering plants, and being of free growth should be given a place in all tropical collections. To succeed with them, a position affording all the light possible should be given them. However, they will not stand strong sunshine, and it is advisable that they be shaded with cheese-cloth the greater part of the year. If they are grown under a heavy shade, they are not inclined to flower well. Cuttings of half-ripened wood, taken in spring, is the best means of propagation. These may be potted singly, in suitable pots, in a mixture of finely sifted peat and sand, with a little powdered charcoal added. Place them in a tight case, and keep fairly moist, care being taken that the air does not become stagnant. The night temperature should not be less than 70°. The cuttings will be rooted in about a month, when they may gradually be given more air and finally transferred to a position in the tropical house. In the earlier stages of growth, the points of the shoots may be stopped by pinching to encourage breaks. Later on they will branch freely of themselves. A good fibrous loam with a third of sharp sand, adding a little charcoal about the size of beans, is the best potting material. Pot moderately firm, as this tends to make a shorter-jointed growth and firmer wood, which is indispensable for success in flowering. Three inches of a shift may be given each time they are potted, as they root freely, but strict attention must be given to drainage, as they require plenty of water during their growing season. A night temperature of not less than 68° is necessary while they are in active growth. Syringe freely on all bright days, especially the under side of the foliage, as red-spider is likely to get a foothold. As autumn approaches, gradually lower the temperature to 60° by night, and gradually withhold water, giving just enough to keep the leaves plump. This ripens the wood for flowering. While the flowers are forming, as dry an atmosphere as possible should be maintained. After flowering, the plants may be pruned into shape, and any repotting done that is necessary. Medinillas may be retained in the same-sized pot for years, after they have attained the desired size, by shaking out a portion of the old soil each year, when repotting, and feeding liberally during the growing period with manure water. M. magnified is the handsomest form, but M. Teysmannii (M. amabilis) is also a fine variety, the panicles being erect instead of pendulous, which is the habit of the former. M. Curtisii is quite distinct from the above. It grows well in a greenhouse temperature of 50° to 55° and begins to flower in the fall, lasting through the winter. The leaves are much smaller than in the above two species. It makes an excellent bush plant and should be better known. Mealy-bug and scale are liable to attack the plants and they must be kept in check as soon as detected.


The above text is from the Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture. It may be out of date, but still contains valuable and interesting information which can be incorporated into the remainder of the article. Click on "Collapse" in the header to hide this text.


Cultivation

Propagation

Pests and diseases

Varieties

Gallery

References

External links