Difference between revisions of "Dipladenia"
(Created page with '__NOTOC__{{Plantbox | latin_name = ''LATINNAME'' <!--- replace LATINNAME with the actual latin name --> | common_names = <!--- if multiple, list all, if none, leave blank -…') |
|||
| Line 30: | Line 30: | ||
}} | }} | ||
{{Inc| | {{Inc| | ||
| − | |||
Dipladenia (Greek, double gland, referring to the two glands at base of ovary, which distinguish this genus from Echites). Apocynaceae. A charming genus of greenhouse twiners (sometimes erect), mostly from Brazil. | Dipladenia (Greek, double gland, referring to the two glands at base of ovary, which distinguish this genus from Echites). Apocynaceae. A charming genus of greenhouse twiners (sometimes erect), mostly from Brazil. | ||
Flowers large, showy, more or less funnel-shaped, having a remarkable range of color, rarely white or dark red, but especially rich in rosy shades and with throats often brilliantly colored with yellow; the buds, also, are charming; calyx 5-parted, the lobes lanceolate, with glands or scales in the inside; corolla without scales at the throat, the 5 lobes spreading, twisted in the bud; stamens 5, affixed in the top of the tube, included, the acuminate anthers connivent around the 5-lobed stigma; disk of 2 fleshy scales, alternating with the 2 distinct ovaries: fr. of 2 terete more or less spread- in g follicles.— Species 30-40, in Trop. S. Amer., woody (rarely herbaceous) and mostly at first erect but becoming scandent, the Lvs. mostly opposite and entire and usually with bristles or glands at base; fls. usually in terminal or axillary racemes. The genus is fully as interesting as Allamanda, which belongs to another tribe of the same family. Other allied genera of garden interest are Echites, Odontadenia, Mandevilla and Urechites. Some species are naturally erect bushes, at least when young, and many can be trained to the bush form. The group is a most tempting one to the hybridizer. Many names appear in European catalogues, but they are confused. Very many pictures are found in the European horticultural periodicals. | Flowers large, showy, more or less funnel-shaped, having a remarkable range of color, rarely white or dark red, but especially rich in rosy shades and with throats often brilliantly colored with yellow; the buds, also, are charming; calyx 5-parted, the lobes lanceolate, with glands or scales in the inside; corolla without scales at the throat, the 5 lobes spreading, twisted in the bud; stamens 5, affixed in the top of the tube, included, the acuminate anthers connivent around the 5-lobed stigma; disk of 2 fleshy scales, alternating with the 2 distinct ovaries: fr. of 2 terete more or less spread- in g follicles.— Species 30-40, in Trop. S. Amer., woody (rarely herbaceous) and mostly at first erect but becoming scandent, the Lvs. mostly opposite and entire and usually with bristles or glands at base; fls. usually in terminal or axillary racemes. The genus is fully as interesting as Allamanda, which belongs to another tribe of the same family. Other allied genera of garden interest are Echites, Odontadenia, Mandevilla and Urechites. Some species are naturally erect bushes, at least when young, and many can be trained to the bush form. The group is a most tempting one to the hybridizer. Many names appear in European catalogues, but they are confused. Very many pictures are found in the European horticultural periodicals. | ||
| − | Of the twining glasshouse flowering subjects, dipladenias are amongst the best and ought to be in all collections of greenhouse plants. An erroneous idea is held by many that it is necessary to have a very high temperature to grow these plants successfully. This, however, is not the case. Except when started into active growth in the early spring, they do better in an intermediate temperature. Dipladenias have been known to live, and thrive well, after having been subjected to 7° of frost. A good time of the year to secure cuttings of dipladenias is about February 1. At that time they show signs of starting into growth and the weak wood should all be pruned back to the normal thickness of the stem. The thickest part of these prunings make good cuttings. Take a piece with two leaves attached, with about an inch of the stem under the leaves. Pot them singly in small pots, half filled with equal parts osmundine, broken up rather fine, sand, and charcoal. Fill the upper part of the pot with sand. Place the pots in a tight propagating bed, in a night-temperature of 70.° Allow the temperature to run up to 80° or more by day, but be sure and admit air several times during the day by opening up the case the plants are in for a few minutes. The cuttings will have the small pots filled with roots in about a month, when they may be shifted into larger pots. From now on, use for potting equal parts of osmundine, the fiber of loam out of which all the fine part has been shaken, sphagnum moss, sand and charcoal. When the plants reach a 6-inch pot; a sixth part of sheep-manure may be added and a sprinkling of chicken-bone. It is a good plan, provided one has a good sheltered border with a southern aspect, to plant small plants of dipladenia outdoors from June until the middle of September. It is astonishing how vigorously they start into growth and flower when potted after this treatment. Fifty-five degrees is a good night temperature to grow dipladenias in when possible. During the summer, if grown indoors, admit all the air that can be admitted day and night. They will stand the full sun under glass, but they do slightly better under a very light shade during the hotter part of the day, when the sun is shining. When the pots are filled with roots, and it is desired that they should remain in that pot for the rest of the season, feed with manure-water, a handful of cow-manure to a two-and-a-half-gallon watering- pot. The same amount to an equal quantity of water if a fertilizer such as "Clays" is used, is sufficient. Horse urine may also be used for a change, a 3-inch potful to two and one-half gallons of water. Be sure to water three times in between with clean water. Dipladenias show signs of completing their growth toward the end of November, at which time water should be gradually withheld, but never so as to allow the wood to shrivel. They may be treated in this manner until the end of January, when, as stated above, they will show signs of starting the season's growth. At this season they should have a general overhauling. Large plants should be turned out of their pots, and the loose dirt all washed out of them with a hose with a gentle pressure on it; and if possible repot in the same size of pot. After disturbing the roots in this manner, they are better to be placed for a few weeks in a temperature of not less than 65°. When they have gripped the new soil, they do better in 55° night temperature. Give each break a piece of thread attached from the plant to the roof to climb on until they set flower. A few breaks, near the highest part of the plant, will start climbing ahead of the others, and after they show a flower-stem pinch the shoot immediately ahead of the flower. This will encourage the belated breaks to start and catch up to these leaders. When they have all set flower, they may be trained evenly over a globe trellis if they are desired for a specimen plant. By the above treatment ninety-five open flowers, all at one time, have been secured on a plant in a 12-inch pot. Dipladenias are subject to mealy-bug, scale, thrips, and red-spider. Fumigate with hydrocyanic gas during the cold months, and syringe regularly and thoroughly during the summer, and these pests will give no trouble | + | Of the twining glasshouse flowering subjects, dipladenias are amongst the best and ought to be in all collections of greenhouse plants. An erroneous idea is held by many that it is necessary to have a very high temperature to grow these plants successfully. This, however, is not the case. Except when started into active growth in the early spring, they do better in an intermediate temperature. Dipladenias have been known to live, and thrive well, after having been subjected to 7° of frost. A good time of the year to secure cuttings of dipladenias is about February 1. At that time they show signs of starting into growth and the weak wood should all be pruned back to the normal thickness of the stem. The thickest part of these prunings make good cuttings. Take a piece with two leaves attached, with about an inch of the stem under the leaves. Pot them singly in small pots, half filled with equal parts osmundine, broken up rather fine, sand, and charcoal. Fill the upper part of the pot with sand. Place the pots in a tight propagating bed, in a night-temperature of 70.° Allow the temperature to run up to 80° or more by day, but be sure and admit air several times during the day by opening up the case the plants are in for a few minutes. The cuttings will have the small pots filled with roots in about a month, when they may be shifted into larger pots. From now on, use for potting equal parts of osmundine, the fiber of loam out of which all the fine part has been shaken, sphagnum moss, sand and charcoal. When the plants reach a 6-inch pot; a sixth part of sheep-manure may be added and a sprinkling of chicken-bone. It is a good plan, provided one has a good sheltered border with a southern aspect, to plant small plants of dipladenia outdoors from June until the middle of September. It is astonishing how vigorously they start into growth and flower when potted after this treatment. Fifty-five degrees is a good night temperature to grow dipladenias in when possible. During the summer, if grown indoors, admit all the air that can be admitted day and night. They will stand the full sun under glass, but they do slightly better under a very light shade during the hotter part of the day, when the sun is shining. When the pots are filled with roots, and it is desired that they should remain in that pot for the rest of the season, feed with manure-water, a handful of cow-manure to a two-and-a-half-gallon watering- pot. The same amount to an equal quantity of water if a fertilizer such as "Clays" is used, is sufficient. Horse urine may also be used for a change, a 3-inch potful to two and one-half gallons of water. Be sure to water three times in between with clean water. Dipladenias show signs of completing their growth toward the end of November, at which time water should be gradually withheld, but never so as to allow the wood to shrivel. They may be treated in this manner until the end of January, when, as stated above, they will show signs of starting the season's growth. At this season they should have a general overhauling. Large plants should be turned out of their pots, and the loose dirt all washed out of them with a hose with a gentle pressure on it; and if possible repot in the same size of pot. After disturbing the roots in this manner, they are better to be placed for a few weeks in a temperature of not less than 65°. When they have gripped the new soil, they do better in 55° night temperature. Give each break a piece of thread attached from the plant to the roof to climb on until they set flower. A few breaks, near the highest part of the plant, will start climbing ahead of the others, and after they show a flower-stem pinch the shoot immediately ahead of the flower. This will encourage the belated breaks to start and catch up to these leaders. When they have all set flower, they may be trained evenly over a globe trellis if they are desired for a specimen plant. By the above treatment ninety-five open flowers, all at one time, have been secured on a plant in a 12-inch pot. Dipladenias are subject to mealy-bug, scale, thrips, and red-spider. Fumigate with hydrocyanic gas during the cold months, and syringe regularly and thoroughly during the summer, and these pests will give no trouble. |
| − | |||
| − | |||
{{SCH}} | {{SCH}} | ||
}} | }} | ||
| Line 51: | Line 48: | ||
==Species== | ==Species== | ||
| − | + | {{Inc| | |
| + | D. amoena, Moore. Free-flowering, with good foliage: Lvs. obtong- acuminate: fls. pink tinted with rose; corolla-lobes rounded and not reflexed. Of garden origin (D. splendens X D. amabilis); offered abroad. F. 1868:73. G.6:391; 11:43.—D. Brearleyana, Hort. Lvs. oblong, acute, dark green: fls. pink at first, changing to rich crimson, very large. Gn. 51, p. 226. F.W. 1875:161. G. 8:92; 12:703. Probably a form of Odontadenia speciosa.—D. carissima, Hort. Fls. very large (about 5 in. diam.), delicate pink lined with bright rose. Garden origin. G.Z. 27, p. 49.—D. crassinoda, DC. Glabrous: st. much branched, with many nodes: Lvs. lanceolate, acute or almost acuminate, acute at the base, shining and leathery on both aides: racemes axillary, about 6-fld.; calyx-lobes lanceolate, acuminate, a little shorter than the cylindrical part of the corolla-tube. 2 or 3 times shorter than the pedicel; corolla-tube bell-shaped above the middle; lobes obovate-orbicular. Brazil. The above is the original description by De Candolle, who adds that the Lvs. are 3-3 Yi in. long, ¾-1 in. wide; petiole 2-3 lines long: stipules inter- petiolar, with 4 short cuspidate teeth. The plant pictured in B.R. 30:64 was renamed D. Lindleyi by Lemaire chiefly for its pilose St. and stellate-lobed stipules. Later authorities refer B.H. 30:64 to D. Martiana. F.S. 22:2310 may be the same plant as B.K. 30:64. but with variable lvs. and stipules. The plant was prized for its delicate colors, being white at first, then shot with soft rose like a name tulip, and finally a deep rose. Only 1 fl. in a raceme was open at a time, and each lasted 8 or 9 days; throat orange inside.— D. eximia. Hemsl. Very slender, twining, nearly glabrous, the st. rose-red: Lvs. opposite, very short-stalked, 1-1½ in. long, orbicular- ovate to elliptic: fls. 6-8 in a cyme, 2½-3 in. across, rose-colored, the tube nearly 2 in. long, corolla-lobes orbicular and obtusely cuspidate. Probably Brazil. B.M.7720.—D. flava, Hook. Fls. size and color of common yellow allamanda; climbing: Lvs. opposite, short-stalked, ovate to elliptic: fls. 4-6 in a lax cyme, yellow, the tube very hairy on the outside and suddenly enlarged above. Colombia. B.M. 4702. J.F. 4:373. See Urechites, to which this is properly referred.— D. Harrisii, Hook. = Odontadenia speciosa. — D. hybruia. Lvs. large, stout, bright green: fls. flaming crimson-red. Garden form. G. 32:647.—D. illustris, DC. Glabrous or pubescent: Lvs. oblong or rotund, obtuse or nearly acute, rounded or sub- cordate at the base, many-nerved; stipules none; petiole short: racemes terminal, 4-8-fld.; fls. rosy, throat yellow inside, purple at the mouth; corolla-tube cylindrical to the middle, then funnel- shaped; limb 3-3½ in. across, lobes rosy, orbicular-ovate, obtuse. Brazil. F.S. 3:256. Var. glabra, Muell. Arg. B.M. 7156.—D. insignis. Hort. Stout-growing: foliage strong: fls. rosy purple. Of garden origin. H.H. 1904, p. 419. G.Z. 16:145.—B. pastorum. Mart., var. tenuifolia, Hook. f. A very slender tuberous-rooted glabrous twining herb with very narrow (⅕ in. or less broad) Lvs. 2-3 in. long, and rose-colored ns. 1½ in. across and bearing a golden 5-cleft ring at the throat. Brazil. B.M. 7725.—D. Sanderi. Hemsl., has flesh- colored, fls. with throat yellow inside, and outside at the base, has smaller Lvs. than D. illustris, and no circle of purple at the mouth of the fl. | ||
| + | {{SCH}} | ||
| + | }} | ||
==Gallery== | ==Gallery== | ||
Latest revision as of 20:56, 15 September 2009
| Origin: | ✈ | ? |
|---|
| Exposure: | ☼ | ?"?" is not in the list (sun, part-sun, shade, unknown) of allowed values for the "Exposure" property. |
|---|---|---|
| Water: | ◍ | ?"?" is not in the list (wet, moist, moderate, dry, less when dormant) of allowed values for the "Water" property. |
Read about Dipladenia in the Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture
|
|---|
|
Dipladenia (Greek, double gland, referring to the two glands at base of ovary, which distinguish this genus from Echites). Apocynaceae. A charming genus of greenhouse twiners (sometimes erect), mostly from Brazil. Flowers large, showy, more or less funnel-shaped, having a remarkable range of color, rarely white or dark red, but especially rich in rosy shades and with throats often brilliantly colored with yellow; the buds, also, are charming; calyx 5-parted, the lobes lanceolate, with glands or scales in the inside; corolla without scales at the throat, the 5 lobes spreading, twisted in the bud; stamens 5, affixed in the top of the tube, included, the acuminate anthers connivent around the 5-lobed stigma; disk of 2 fleshy scales, alternating with the 2 distinct ovaries: fr. of 2 terete more or less spread- in g follicles.— Species 30-40, in Trop. S. Amer., woody (rarely herbaceous) and mostly at first erect but becoming scandent, the Lvs. mostly opposite and entire and usually with bristles or glands at base; fls. usually in terminal or axillary racemes. The genus is fully as interesting as Allamanda, which belongs to another tribe of the same family. Other allied genera of garden interest are Echites, Odontadenia, Mandevilla and Urechites. Some species are naturally erect bushes, at least when young, and many can be trained to the bush form. The group is a most tempting one to the hybridizer. Many names appear in European catalogues, but they are confused. Very many pictures are found in the European horticultural periodicals. Of the twining glasshouse flowering subjects, dipladenias are amongst the best and ought to be in all collections of greenhouse plants. An erroneous idea is held by many that it is necessary to have a very high temperature to grow these plants successfully. This, however, is not the case. Except when started into active growth in the early spring, they do better in an intermediate temperature. Dipladenias have been known to live, and thrive well, after having been subjected to 7° of frost. A good time of the year to secure cuttings of dipladenias is about February 1. At that time they show signs of starting into growth and the weak wood should all be pruned back to the normal thickness of the stem. The thickest part of these prunings make good cuttings. Take a piece with two leaves attached, with about an inch of the stem under the leaves. Pot them singly in small pots, half filled with equal parts osmundine, broken up rather fine, sand, and charcoal. Fill the upper part of the pot with sand. Place the pots in a tight propagating bed, in a night-temperature of 70.° Allow the temperature to run up to 80° or more by day, but be sure and admit air several times during the day by opening up the case the plants are in for a few minutes. The cuttings will have the small pots filled with roots in about a month, when they may be shifted into larger pots. From now on, use for potting equal parts of osmundine, the fiber of loam out of which all the fine part has been shaken, sphagnum moss, sand and charcoal. When the plants reach a 6-inch pot; a sixth part of sheep-manure may be added and a sprinkling of chicken-bone. It is a good plan, provided one has a good sheltered border with a southern aspect, to plant small plants of dipladenia outdoors from June until the middle of September. It is astonishing how vigorously they start into growth and flower when potted after this treatment. Fifty-five degrees is a good night temperature to grow dipladenias in when possible. During the summer, if grown indoors, admit all the air that can be admitted day and night. They will stand the full sun under glass, but they do slightly better under a very light shade during the hotter part of the day, when the sun is shining. When the pots are filled with roots, and it is desired that they should remain in that pot for the rest of the season, feed with manure-water, a handful of cow-manure to a two-and-a-half-gallon watering- pot. The same amount to an equal quantity of water if a fertilizer such as "Clays" is used, is sufficient. Horse urine may also be used for a change, a 3-inch potful to two and one-half gallons of water. Be sure to water three times in between with clean water. Dipladenias show signs of completing their growth toward the end of November, at which time water should be gradually withheld, but never so as to allow the wood to shrivel. They may be treated in this manner until the end of January, when, as stated above, they will show signs of starting the season's growth. At this season they should have a general overhauling. Large plants should be turned out of their pots, and the loose dirt all washed out of them with a hose with a gentle pressure on it; and if possible repot in the same size of pot. After disturbing the roots in this manner, they are better to be placed for a few weeks in a temperature of not less than 65°. When they have gripped the new soil, they do better in 55° night temperature. Give each break a piece of thread attached from the plant to the roof to climb on until they set flower. A few breaks, near the highest part of the plant, will start climbing ahead of the others, and after they show a flower-stem pinch the shoot immediately ahead of the flower. This will encourage the belated breaks to start and catch up to these leaders. When they have all set flower, they may be trained evenly over a globe trellis if they are desired for a specimen plant. By the above treatment ninety-five open flowers, all at one time, have been secured on a plant in a 12-inch pot. Dipladenias are subject to mealy-bug, scale, thrips, and red-spider. Fumigate with hydrocyanic gas during the cold months, and syringe regularly and thoroughly during the summer, and these pests will give no trouble. CH
|
Cultivation
- Do you have cultivation info on this plant? Edit this section!
Propagation
- Do you have propagation info on this plant? Edit this section!
Pests and diseases
- Do you have pest and disease info on this plant? Edit this section!
Species
Read about Dipladenia in the Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture
|
|---|
|
{{{1}}} The above text is from the Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture. It may be out of date, but still contains valuable and interesting information which can be incorporated into the remainder of the article. Click on "Collapse" in the header to hide this text. |
Gallery
If you have a photo of this plant, please upload it! Plus, there may be other photos available for you to add.
photo 1
photo 2
photo 3
References
- Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture, by L. H. Bailey, MacMillan Co., 1963
External links
- w:Dipladenia. Some of the material on this page may be from Wikipedia, under the Creative Commons license.
- Dipladenia QR Code (Size 50, 100, 200, 500)
