Changes

629 bytes added ,  22:43, 3 February 2009
no edit summary
Line 33: Line 33:     
==Garden Chrysanthemums==
 
==Garden Chrysanthemums==
[[Image:Red mums.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Cultivated chrysanthemums can be yellow, white, or even bright red, such as these.]]
   
These have a bushy, branched habit.  Clusters of flowerheads come in a large variety of colors.  They are divided into two loose categories, garden types, which tend to the upright, and cushion, which is more of a mound.  Flowers come over a long period, usually during early or midseason  They are suitable for annual or herbaceous borders.  C. segetum works well in wildflower gardens as well.
 
These have a bushy, branched habit.  Clusters of flowerheads come in a large variety of colors.  They are divided into two loose categories, garden types, which tend to the upright, and cushion, which is more of a mound.  Flowers come over a long period, usually during early or midseason  They are suitable for annual or herbaceous borders.  C. segetum works well in wildflower gardens as well.
    
==Exhibition Chrysanthemums==
 
==Exhibition Chrysanthemums==
 +
[[Image:CrazyOrangeChrysanthemum-1102.jpg|thumb|200px|right|One of the many unusual forms of flower.]]
 
The many cultivars in this group come in a riot of colors and forms.  They are perennial and grown for cut flowers, garden color/interest and of course, exhibitions.  There are many flower forms, with about a dozen popular named styles which they are often categorized by (irregular incurve, reflex, regular incurve, decorative, intermediate incurve, pompon, semi-double, anemone, spoon, quill, spider and brush), along with their flowering season which is broken out into early (late summer and early fall), midseason (late summer/early fall), or late (mid-fall to early winter) - as well as whether they are disbudded or non-disbudded.  Those that are disbudded get classified into groups by size.  The non-disbudded are classified by size as well as habit.
 
The many cultivars in this group come in a riot of colors and forms.  They are perennial and grown for cut flowers, garden color/interest and of course, exhibitions.  There are many flower forms, with about a dozen popular named styles which they are often categorized by (irregular incurve, reflex, regular incurve, decorative, intermediate incurve, pompon, semi-double, anemone, spoon, quill, spider and brush), along with their flowering season which is broken out into early (late summer and early fall), midseason (late summer/early fall), or late (mid-fall to early winter) - as well as whether they are disbudded or non-disbudded.  Those that are disbudded get classified into groups by size.  The non-disbudded are classified by size as well as habit.
   Line 56: Line 56:     
==Cultivation==
 
==Cultivation==
 +
[[Image:Red mums.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Cultivated chrysanthemums can be yellow, white, or even bright red, such as these.]]
 
'''Early and mid-season flowering mums''' grow outdoors in sheltered spots.  They like full sun, fertile soil, which is moist but drains well, neutral (or slightly acidic) pH, with well rotted manure.  Balanced fertilizer should be used on the soil in a top-dressing before planting them, which should only be done after any chance of frost has passed.  As it grows, provide support if necessary, tying with soft twine as it grows.  Eventual height can vary widely, depending partly on pruning and fertilization.  Plants can be stopped at 6-8 inches (15-20cm) to help encourage flowering lateral production.  Stopping those laterals again will encourage an even larger number of blooms, although they'll be smaller.  If you want exhibition type blooms, only allow the right number of strong flower stems to remain.  Gradually remove undesirable buds, as laterals reach 3/4 in (2cm) in length.  The timing of all of this depends on how quickly the plant is growing, but a rule of thumb is to stop all of the disbudding/stopping by July 15 in cooler climates and by July 25 in warmer.
 
'''Early and mid-season flowering mums''' grow outdoors in sheltered spots.  They like full sun, fertile soil, which is moist but drains well, neutral (or slightly acidic) pH, with well rotted manure.  Balanced fertilizer should be used on the soil in a top-dressing before planting them, which should only be done after any chance of frost has passed.  As it grows, provide support if necessary, tying with soft twine as it grows.  Eventual height can vary widely, depending partly on pruning and fertilization.  Plants can be stopped at 6-8 inches (15-20cm) to help encourage flowering lateral production.  Stopping those laterals again will encourage an even larger number of blooms, although they'll be smaller.  If you want exhibition type blooms, only allow the right number of strong flower stems to remain.  Gradually remove undesirable buds, as laterals reach 3/4 in (2cm) in length.  The timing of all of this depends on how quickly the plant is growing, but a rule of thumb is to stop all of the disbudding/stopping by July 15 in cooler climates and by July 25 in warmer.
   Line 179: Line 180:  
Image:Chrysanthemums.jpg| A cluster of chrysanthemums
 
Image:Chrysanthemums.jpg| A cluster of chrysanthemums
 
Image:IMG 2967.JPG| A cluster of chrysanthemums
 
Image:IMG 2967.JPG| A cluster of chrysanthemums
 +
Image:Chrysanthemum-6193.jpg
 +
Image:Kiku-The Art of the Japanese Chrysanthemum-5211.jpg
 +
Image:Pink pingpong-6278.jpg
 +
Image:Yellow Button Poms-4554.jpg
 +
Image:Chrysanthemum SAIKOYUBI-6739.jpg
 +
Image:Chrysanthemum paludosum-2005.jpg
 +
Image:A Riot of Mums-6348.jpg
 +
Image:Autumn Chrysanthemums-7986.jpg
 +
Image:Abundant blooms-7651.jpg
 +
Image:Lavender Button Pom-1942.jpg
 +
Image:Orange chrysanthemums with dew-227.jpg
 +
Image:Chrysanthemum-5563.jpg
 +
Image:Green mum-9462.jpg
 +
Image:Pink shaggy mums-5253.jpg
 +
Image:Pink chrysanthemum-2692.jpg
 
</gallery>
 
</gallery>