Parsnip
Read about Parsnip in the Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture
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The average home-gardener thinks much of quick results. The drawback to parsnip-growing, in his estimation, is the length of time the crop requires for its development. When seed is sown, in early spring, the harvest seems a long way off. To offset this disadvantage, however, parsnips become available as green material when other things fresh from the garden are very scarce or entirely absent, that is, in open spells in winter, and in the very early days of spring. A crop of good straight roots may not be so easily produced as a crop of smooth carrots, but when once grown it does not burden one with much responsibility in regard to storage or keeping, which is an important point in its favor. The roots may be left in the ground where they grew or stored in moss or sand in the cellar. The winter freezing in the ground does not injure them; in fact, some growers suppose that it improves the quality. This ability to withstand the winter makes them valuable also as food for cattle, sheep, hogs and poultry in the early spring, in case the table or market should not call for them at that time. If dug in autumn, they may be stored in a cool, moist cellar (or buried) as other roots are kept. The best soil for parsnips is a clean rich loam, which offers no obstruction to the uniform expansion of the roots. Straight deep roots must have a deep soil. Prepare it the same as for beets or carrots, or for any other garden crop. The seed should be strictly fresh, as it soon loses its vitality. Seeds germinate rather slowly and therefore the ground should be clear of roots and seeds of weeds, otherwise the young plants may be smothered. Sow in early spring, preferably with a garden seed-drill,1/2 to 1 inch deep, in rows 15 to 20 inches apart in the garden, and somewhat farther in field culture, in the place where the plants are to stand. Be prompt in thinning the young seedlings to 6 to 12 inches apart in the row; at the same time pull up or cut out all weeds. The free use of the hand wheel-hoe will keep the patch clean until the entire surface of the ground is covered with foliage, thus preventing further growth of weeds. Tillage may then cease. Seed is easily grown. Plant the roots in spring in any good soil, and gather the seed-heads in summer when most of the seeds in them are mature. Dry them on sheets, and then thrash or strip. The varieties of parsnip are few in number. For shallow, stony or otherwise unfavorable soils the best varieties are the Round or Early Short Round; for better soils the Half-Long, Student, or Hollow Crown; and for deep clean soils the Long Smooth. T. Greiner. L. H. B.
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| Pastinaca sativa L. | ||||||||||||||
The parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) is a root vegetable related to the carrot. Parsnips resemble carrots, but are paler and have a stronger flavor. Like carrots, parsnips are native to Eurasia and have been eaten there since ancient times. Zohary and Hopf note that the archeological evidence for the cultivation of the parsnip is "still rather limited", and that Greek and Roman literary sources are a major source about its early use, but warn "there are some difficulties in distinguishing between parsnip and carrot in classical writings since both vegetables seem to have been sometimes called pastinaca yet each vegetable appears to be well under cultivation in Roman times."[1]
Until the potato arrived from the New World, its place in dishes was occupied by the parsnip. Parsnips can be boiled, roasted or used in stews, soups and casseroles. In some cases, the parsnip is boiled and the solid portions are removed from the soup or stew, leaving behind a more subtle flavor than the whole root and contributing starch to thicken the dish.
Cultivation
Parsnips are not grown in warm climates, since frost is necessary to develop their flavor. The parsnip is a favorite with gardeners in areas with short growing seasons. Sandy, loamy soil is preferred; silty, clay, and rocky soils are unsuitable as they produce short forked roots.
Seeds can be planted in early spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. Harvesting can begin in late fall after the first frost, and continue through winter until the ground freezes over.
More than almost any other vegetable seed, parsnip seed significantly deteriorates in viability if stored for long, so it is advisable to use fresh seed each year.
In Roman times parsnips were believed to be an aphrodisiac.
In the United States, most states have wild parsnip on their list of noxious weeds or invasive species.
Parsnip is used as a food plant by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species, including the Common Swift, Garden Dart, and Ghost Moth.
Nutritional properties
The parsnip is richer in vitamins and minerals than its close relative the carrot. It is particularly rich in potassium with 600 mg per 100 g. The parsnip is also a good source of dietary fiber. 100 g of parsnip contains 55 calories (230 kJ) energy.
Some people can get an allergic reaction from parsnip, and parsnip leaves may irritate the skin.
Dangers connected to wild parsnips
Template:Cleanup When picking wild vegetables, it is easy to mistake poison hemlock (Conium maculatum) for parsnip, with deadly results.
Wild parsnips contain three furocoumarins (psoralen, xanthotoxin, and bergapten). These chemicals are phototoxic, mutagenic, and photo-carcinogenic. Psoralens, which are potent light-activated carcinogens not destroyed by cooking, are found in parsnip roots at concentrations of 40 ppm. Ivie, et al. report:
"Consumption of moderate quantities of this vegetable by man can result in the intake of appreciable amounts of psoralens. Consumption of 0.1 kg of parsnip root could expose an individual to 4 to 5 mg of total psoralens, an amount that might be expected to cause some physiological effects under certain circumstances..."[2]
References
- Dr D.G.Hessayon (2003) The Vegetable & Herb Expert. Expert Books. ISBN 0-903505-46-0
